Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2416162.

A handle to attach to a suction cup from an old phone car kit.

Suction Cup Door Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4470029.

Experimental Nut Cracker. Awaiting testing. Pictured with aluminium reinforced jaws, though on its own has a hard bite. Gear ratio 1:41.667.

Prints in place fully assembled without supports.

IMPORTANT: Print at 0.2mm layer height if using the default model, otherwise ensure layer_h parameter matches your layer height if customizing. Check preview before printing and ensure the 1-layer gap is preserved in the outer ring gears.

Use a sharpened spatula, razor or hobby knife to de-laminate the 1-layer gaps (watch fingers and listen for the "crack"), then turn the knob just a little to get the gears moving. Now "crack" the jaws apart manually by back-driving by a few mm (there should be a little backlash). Now all the parts are free, it will be a bit stiff at first but opening and closing a few times will loosen it up. Then apply petroleum jelly or lubricant of choice to gears and work it in (again by opening and closing a few times). Optionally reinforce jaws with aluminium angle or stainless steel and a bit of glue.

Nut Cracker

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2284449.

This is the early stages of an idea. The general idea is to apply techniques used in the dairy industry for going on the past century to the lacklustre human equivalents available today. Motivated by my wife's present frustrations with the technology and my own frustrations with the profiteering in the local maternity market.

It is not too disimilar to current products available. The addition of a one-way valve on the end of the collection tube, using the vacuum inlet on the shield side, leaving the other open as a vent and it would function the same.

Rather than simply applying a pulsating vacuum to a rigid cup, which will tend to engorge tissue and cause discomfort over time, the goal is to apply a more natural alternating mechanical compression and suction. In a contemporary milking machine, this is achieved by the use of a flexible teat cup liner and two sources of vacuum, one constant and the other pulsating.

Another notable advantage of a printable design is the possibility of customization. I suspect many problems experienced would reduce to a poor fitting device. There is also a myriad of bottle thread sizes even from the same brand. Most parameters affecting the size and shape are now customizable.

Customizable Breast Pump

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736869.

Beer bottle mouse trap with magnetic latch. I thought PET bottles might be a bit easy to chew through. I'm also considering relocating the coin over the opening so the mouse inside has no exposed plastic to chew.

This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2985795 - note that the original stls have also been included as they are imported by the SCAD for editing. (TODO: fully convert to SCAD)

4 start, 2.5mm pitch thread to suit a twist top beer bottle. Not sure how common this thread is but I've also included a rough SCAD source (with original stl imported) which makes use of a parametrised thread library from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2277141

After adjusting the thread I found there are a few other things to consider when switching to a glass bottle. Balance is critical. The trap must be teetering on the tipping point so that the additional weight of a mouse will close the door. This is much harder with the heavy glass bottle compared to PET. I found the included bottle holder inadequate, both in terms of the odd shape of my bottle and the slipperiness of glass, so I came up with a wire stand attached to the cap. Simply bend some coat-hanger wire or similar into an isosceles triangle and insert into the provided holes. Adjust the length by small increments until balance is achieved.

Additional fine tuning may be achieved using extra weights, bending the wire to adjust the resting angle or by adjusting the bait.

Beer Bottle Mouse Trap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3622531.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3620748

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=3620748



My Customized Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4757170.

Multi-catch live capture mouse trap.

Basically a jig to hold some nails in place to form a one-way opening for small rodents.

Requires nails (~3mm diameter x ~50mm) x 16 and a non-chewable container.

A large tin, jar or mesh cage would make a suitable rodent prison with this forming the entrance. Once inside, the mouse cannot chew the plastic so soft PLA is fine.

Bait suggestions in comments - personally I have had success with fresh bread or a paste of oats, peanut butter and honey.

Using parametrised thread library from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2277141

Update: Haven't caught a single mouse with this design. Evidence of mouse activity, but they are able to find the exit too easily. Perhaps a mesh cage like similar designs would make it less obvious. I did however setup a few dozen old-school snap traps and started catching them within 20 minutes. After spending an afternoon constantly resetting traps I've pretty much wiped them out inside the house. Only the odd one occasionally turns up.

Building Another Mouse Trap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588378.

The kids were quite impressed by some of the popular "Surprise Egg" models, however I was quite disappointed they were encumbered by a NoDerivatives license. Only one thing for it, make my own customizable version free to share and modify. Here it is.

Can be used as a general purpose hollow egg of custom size, or start with a blank slate and subtract your own model for snug fit. Print-in-place, no supports (makes use of bridging for hollow version).


Customizable Surprise Egg

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3497579.

UPDATE: This is old news and has been done before. It is the basis for gearboxes such as [High Torque 149.33:1 Compound Planetary Gear set](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2550882). Check out [Solid Core Compound Planetary Gearbox](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3511382) for something new* - a single piece sun gear version with similar high ratios.

This is a print-in-place compound planetary gearbox. There are two planetary stages stacked vertically. The old trick of having one tooth fewer in one ring to emulate a cycloidal drive has been extended by noting that we do not require the same gear pitch (or rather number of planet teeth) in both stages. This way we can achieve a fractional differential between the outer rings and ridiculous gear ratios.

As an example, consider (Np/Nr) of 10/31 and 11/34 in the two stages. These give a very close ratio of 1:340 relative to each other. Multiply this by the gear ratio of the first planetary gear with fixed ring, driven by the sun of 1:3.818 and we obtain a final gear ratio of 1:1298.18...

Just be sure to separate the ring and sun gears before turning (there should be a one-layer gap after slicing). A sharpened spatula works well as long as there is enough space between planet gears to get a corner in. For a tightly packed arrangement it may be possible to thread piano wire around the sun gears and crack them apart.

Here's a quick [example spreadsheet](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uYKKAWmQ7zif1EQtZG-QP4luj-qRsDD3NsaC1B5WHww) to calculate not quite matching ratios.

(* It's probably been done before, but I can't find any examples)

Compound Planetary Gears 1300:1

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718878.

Another Planck keyboard, tweaked a bit to print on my 215mmx215mm heated bed as a single piece. Just squeezes in diagonally and gets a bit wider as the layers go up. Also did a bit of remodeling to make the plate a bit less flimsy, and added a rim around the outer edges of the keys.

Not built yet, so we'll see if I've got enough holes for wire routing (hand-wired, not PCB)

Planck

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588244.

The kids were quite impressed by some of the popular "Surprise Egg" models and I would like to try my own, however they were encumbered by a NoDerivatives license. Only one thing for it, make my own customizable version free to share and modify. Here it is.

Can be used as a general purpose hollow egg of custom size, or start with a blank slate and subtract your own model for snug fit. Print-in-place, no supports (makes use of bridging for hollow version).

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3620748.

Spheroform with Tetrahedral Symmetry

Inspired by Angus one Friday night [Ultimate Solids of Constant Width](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOojOfpcPZM). I thought I would combine the ideas of tetrahedral symmetry and a low poly/fast OpenSCAD implementation.

Based on Solids of constant width – the Meissner Tetrahedron – in OpenSCAD [ceptimus](http://ceptimus.co.uk/?p=345)

Modified for tetrahedral symmetry using calculations from [xtalgrafix](http://www.xtalgrafix.com/Spheroform2.htm)

With a few more optimisations of my own. Fast enough now to crank up the resolution and generate multiple variants as parts.

UPDATE: Initial approximations using linear_extruded circles or the rotate_extrude ceptimus code introduced errors which would probably be measurable. I updated the scad to use spheres (well, polygons) which blew out the compile time. Then further optimised for symmetry to bring it back down again.

UPDATE2: Now calculating envelope surface directly and using polyhedron.

UPDATE3: We're just a few spheres away from implementing the whole thing in a single polyhedron avoiding any expensive intersection, union or hull operations altogether. We can also tailor our sphere mesh to remove any unsightly seams or internal faces.
[Single Polyhedron Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3636287).

Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4200576.

This is a quick OpenSCAD animation of the puzzle featured [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLSWiTXwiKQ) (Chris Ramsay)

I'm planning to construct a similar puzzle box but printable with minimal assembly and just short of the $2000 price point.

Using the animation view in OpenSCAD, the solution presented in the video can be played back to aid in the mechanical design.

This model is not intended for printing (yet). I still need to add the box frame and slidey bits to support the movement as shown.

Update: Added a few inner layers to support 3D movement and interlocking of pieces. Started coding "tracks" for sliding movement. Added animation (View Original of thumbnail image).

Puzzle Box Movement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799848.

Navigate the hidden maze by turning the two dials.

Print in place, fully assembled - optimized for 0.2mm layer height. Run a sharp edge around the seams to separate the dials and internal sliders if necessary.

As for the locking mechanism, it prints in the "unlocked" position. Without giving too much away, to lock it turn the top dial 180 degrees before turning the bottom dial to engage the "maze" mechanism. Entering the maze is deceptively easy, escaping not so much.

https://youtu.be/H0MJJPkx5ls

Puzzle Cylinder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912102.

The original didn't quite fit my boy's cage, so I first tried scaling up for the next gap but then it was too fat to fit through. I could probably get away with scaling down but at this point decided it was time for a do over (which ended up being required as the base of the cage shifted once it was lifted off the table).

As a Customizer, you will have more control over various dimensions. I have also rounded off the bottom edge a bit more for comfort. Also added a self supporting version for more variety of cage types.

Gate Perch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4598298.

A bracket to mount the Ender 3 extruder on its side allowing more clearance of the filament path to the z-axis leadscrew.

I found the PLA starting to chew out the soft plastic of the stock extruder. To reduce wear I decided to add a length of PTFE tube to the input side but mounting is problematic due to filament path touching the leadscrew. An extra 5mm of bracket would have been nice.

Turning the motor on its side allows plenty of clearance to add a tube coupler to the input side of the extruder.

Ender 3 Clip-On Extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943455.

DIY watch battery replacement. Once you manage to get the watch open and replace the battery, getting the cover back on isn't trivial without proper tools. This non-parameterized example was knocked up in about 2 minutes to get me out of a pinch after I volunteered to fix my wife's watch. The crystal face of the watch protrudes so this die simply protects it by supporting the watch by the outer rim, just apply force (steady, controlled and orthogonal, like a clamp or vice - not too tight).

Watch Press

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946047.

Just... Couldn't... Resist...

Customizable Surprise Cube

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232951.

Playing around with [Rudolf Huttary's](https://www.thingiverse.com/Parkinbot/about) gear library, exploring the concept of single-toothed gears with profile shift and meshing gears of different pitch. The mismatch in pitch in this extreme case causes the planetary gears to slide and grind instead of rolling and pivoting more like worm gears. Not sure how freely this one will turn.

Came across this configuration while trying different parameters. Not a finished product, but just something of interest found along the way.

Remix of (search broken at present):
[Hi-ratio evoloid planetary gear](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4127285)
and
[Planetary Gear Puzzle Box](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4034834)

Planetary Worm Gear

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777734.

Plugs for BoltHobber https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:232511 to hold m5 tap on centre

BoltHobber Tap Plugs

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543623.

Got caught out at Aldi the other day. Apparently they require some kind of primitive medium of exchange for the temporary acquisition of grocery conveyance.

Never again.

For printing at 0.2mm layer height to leave a 1-layer gap between tokens.

Aldi Trolley Token 10 Stack ($2 AUD)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859028.

Wind turbine for [Print in Place Music Box](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4672175)

This was added as an afterthought to press-fit onto the knob. I neglected to publish it with the original model (Customizer requires only one scad source file per model).

Might have come from thing:2187837 (no longer available)

Music Box Wind Turbine

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789709.

I had a stepper motor from an old printer with a press-fit timing gear already in place, so I made this pulley to adapt an M8 Greg-Wade geared extruder derivative to belt drive. I know there are other designs which are already belt drive, but I was looking for something I could make with parts I had on hand, namely 608 skate bearings and the pre-fitted timing pulley. Plus I had already been running the geared version, so the pulley was the only new component to print.
Though I did have to order in the timing belt, T2.5 - 6mm wide, 200mm long.

Timing gear M8 T2.5 64 tooth 50mm

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792341.

Dual Z without the hardware. An additional belt to support the far end of the X gantry. Particularly useful to reduce ringing in direct drive setups and improve consistency of bed leveling.

Requires ~700mm x 6mm timing belt and a couple of spare T-nuts that came with the printer.

I haven't gone to great lengths to ensure a perfectly straight belt path but with a few quick tweaks these belt holders should do the job.

Actual GT2 Idler pulleys may also improve the design, mounted on elongated V slot wheel bolts, for example but that will cost extra.

The belt path runs from the bottom left frame corner, straight up and around two pulleys on either end of the X gantry and straight up again to the top right corner. This path is constant length as the gantry moves up and down but provides additional support for the cantilevered arm.

I've been taking a few measurements to see if this mod has merit (or dual Z in general). There indeed is a measurable vertical deflection of the far end when moderate force is applied, easily 0.4mm up or down without too much effort - a range of 4 layers but only around 0.06mm deflection from the weight of a stepper motor alone.

The force of gravity or nozzle pressure could indeed cause some deflection, but this would be fairly consistent given the limited Z motion and would simply be compensated by bed level.

Where this does cause an observable effect is at the start of a print. A kind of hysteresis is observed, particularly if the far end rollers are too tight. The gantry moves down immediately before starting a print, then changes direction to move upwards but the far end lags behind. A calibration cube printed towards the end of the gantry exhibits a noticeable bulge akin to elephant's foot, but extending 2-3mm up the print.

This mod, or full dual Z can indeed reduce this effect by providing additional support to the gantry or pre-tensioning the far end (either up or down). Originally I had conceived of a symmetric two belt arrangement which could be tensioned, but I think a single belt setup could still provide benefit by balancing the springiness of the gantry against the belt tension. Effectively pre-loading the spring of the gantry and limiting further deflection.

Poor Man's Dual Z for Ender 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633154.

"This is a REAL solid of constant width. It is built from a Reuleaux Tetrahedron with the edges replaced by a carefully constructed sphere sweep." - [myxibrium](https://www.thingiverse.com/myxibrium)

I have replaced the sphere sweep code with a directly calculated envelope polyhedron to speed things up a bit.

More information about this unique shape by [Patrick Roberts](http://www.xtalgrafix.com/Spheroform2.htm)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4269367.

Literally just the original model scaled to fit an iPad2. Very practical design. I made it about 1mm smaller than the tablet for a tight fit (it stretches a bit).

I needed something for the kids iPads which was fairly stable so they could use the touch screen but gave some elevation for viewing comfort.

Low Profile iPad 2 Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672146.

An adaptor tube to fit an old binocular objective I had lying around to a Replay XD 1080 camera for high zoom levels. The lens holder had a M40x1.5mm thread which screws into the matching end and the XD1080 is a snug fit in the opposite end. The original camera lens is removed by moderate heating (to soften glue) and unscrewing after the protective bezel is unscrewed. The flat polycarboante window and bezel is then replaced to protect the sensor inside.

The outer diameter has been chosen as 35mm as it is a common scope size and various mounting options are available.

Chromatic aberration is a big problem for single lens, high magnification systems. It can be processed in software to some degree, but a monochromatic filter might be the easiest solution.

Not really satisfied with the image quality, too much light leakage and my magnification is probably too high to get a good image. I was using white filament, painted black. Now I have some black filament I might have another go. Just publishing this model as an example for now.

Replay XD to Binocular Lens Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810004.

A very simple, customizable phone holder (preset for Samsung Galaxy S9) for top-down'ish recording from an overhanging shelf.

I wasn't going for an adjustable, universal mounting clamp. I had a very specific use case in mind, knew my angles and didn't want a print that would take all day or require additional hardware. Found an existing model, did some quick adjustments and I was good to go.

It's also handy for using up the last scraps of filament on the spool since it doesn't matter if it runs out early (just have enough walls to print solid).

Customizable Camera Shelf Mount

Puzzle Box for printing in separate pieces and assembled.

assembly.obj

Puzzle_Cube_v4_slider

Puzzle_Cube_v4_lower_ring

Puzzle_Cube_v4_upper_ring

Puzzle_Cube_v4_core

Art_Upper

Art_Lower

Art_Upper_Dial

Art_Lower_Dial

Fits three. Call them X, Y and Z.

MicroSD Holder Calibration Cube by tmackay is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license

MicroSD Holder Calibration Cube

What else are you gonna fit in there?

MicroSD Holder Calibration Cube by tmackay is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license

Just... Couldn't... Resist...

Customizable Surprise Cube by tmackay is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license

Surprise Calibration Cube

Puzzle Ball with internal maze. Miniaturized version with a payload to fit 4 Australian $2 coins, hence the name.

Printing and assembly instructions - https://youtu.be/ZabESJmFGFc

Same assembly method applies, however it is much more difficult due to the smaller dimensions and relatively thicker walls. This version uses some print-in-place techniques for easier assembly. Supports required (conical support works well and saves material).

8 Ball Puzzle

8_Ball2.stl

A Blind Maze in a Puzzle Ball

Printing and Assembly - https://youtu.be/ZabESJmFGFc

A Maze Ball

Puzzle_Ball.stl

Work in progress. Still need to optimize the design for printing and assembling. Using exploded view to visualize.

Updated printable version:
https://thangs.com/tmackay/A-Maze-Ball-23244
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PITNbqTdGtQ

Puzzle_Ball.004

Work in progress. Still need to optimize the design for printing and assembling. Using exploded view to help visualize the design.

This Hellraiser themed puzzle box, The Lament Configuration or Lemarchand's box is the latest in a series of previous attempts. What started as a contrived application of a gearbox design has evolved into it's own puzzle with a completely new internal locking mechanism.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0MJJPkx5ls

Print in place, fully assembled (see other model, this one is for visualization only). Optimized for 0.2mm layer height. I've only printed one so far, so still refining the post-processing technique - I might do a video on it later. Optionally add support (it should bridge) with a high overhang angle and a 100% support interface for a solid disk under the dial.

Start by running a razor or sharp edge through the outer seams, then pushing the fingers out from the center by hand, working your way around slowly. Crack, crack, crack is the sound of layers de-laminating and moving parts freeing up. Take your time and the box should slide open. Finally free up the dials, I used a hobby knife to wedge in the crack and then slide a sliver of Coke can into the gap and work it around.

Don't be worried if it's a bit tight and binding at first, it will quickly work itself in. Friction creates heat which softens PLA quickly. Just work it back and forth. Warm soapy water may help. Press the heels of your palms firmly on opposite dials to really work them back and forth until they move freely.

As for the locking mechanism, it prints in the "unlocked" position. Without giving too much away, to lock it turn the top dial 180 degrees before turning the bottom dial to engage the "maze" mechanism. Entering the maze is deceptively easy, escaping not so much.

Puzzle Cube Open

Bottom_Dial

Bottom_Shell

Core

Core_Spinner

Maze_Runner

Top_Dial

Top_Shell

This Hellraiser themed puzzle box, The Lament Configuration or Lemarchand's box is the latest in a series of previous attempts. What started as a contrived application of a gearbox design has evolved into it's own puzzle with a completely new internal locking mechanism.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0MJJPkx5ls

Print in place, fully assembled - optimized for 0.2mm layer height. I've only printed one so far, so still refining the post-processing technique - I might do a video on it later. Optionally add support (it should bridge) with a high overhang angle and a 100% support interface for a solid disk under the dial.

Start by running a razor or sharp edge through the outer seams, then pushing the fingers out from the center by hand, working your way around slowly. Crack, crack, crack is the sound of layers de-laminating and moving parts freeing up. Take your time and the box should slide open. Finally free up the dials, I used a hobby knife to wedge in the crack and then slide a sliver of Coke can into the gap and work it around.

Don't be worried if it's a bit tight and binding at first, it will quickly work itself in. Friction creates heat which softens PLA quickly. Just work it back and forth. Warm soapy water may help. Press the heels of your palms firmly on opposite dials to really work them back and forth until they move freely.

As for the locking mechanism, it prints in the "unlocked" position. Without giving too much away, to lock it turn the top dial 180 degrees before turning the bottom dial to engage the "maze" mechanism. Entering the maze is deceptively easy, escaping not so much.

Puzzle Cube

This Hellraiser themed puzzle box, The Lament Configuration or Lemarchand's box is the latest in a series of previous attempts. What started as a contrived application of a gearbox design has evolved into it's own puzzle with a completely new internal locking mechanism.

Print in place, fully assembled - optimized for 0.2mm layer height. I've only printed one so far, so still refining the post-processing technique - I might do a video on it later. Optionally add support (it should bridge) with a high overhang angle and a 100% support interface for a solid disk under the dial.

Start by running a razor or sharp edge through the outer seams, then pushing the fingers out from the center by hand, working your way around slowly. Crack, crack, crack is the sound of layers de-laminating and moving parts freeing up. Take your time and the box should slide open. Finally free up the dials, I used a hobby knife to wedge in the crack and then slide a sliver of Coke can into the gap and work it around.

Don't be worried if it's a bit tight and binding at first, it will quickly work itself in. Friction creates heat which softens PLA quickly. Just work it back and forth. Warm soapy water may help. Press the heels of your palms firmly on opposite dials to really work them back and forth until they move freely.

As for the locking mechanism, it prints in the "unlocked" position. Without giving too much away, to lock it turn the top dial 180 degrees before turning the bottom dial to engage the "maze" mechanism. Entering the maze is deceptively easy, escaping not so much.

Cylindrical Dual Maze Puzzle Box. Print in place at 0.2mm layer height. Twist 180 degrees to lock before engaging maze which is easy to enter but hard to exit.

Puzzle Box

Cylindrical Dual Maze Puzzle Box. Print in place at 0.2mm layer height. Turn 180 degrees to lock before engaging maze which is easy to enter but hard to exit.

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tmackay

Achievements

Sapling

Fan Favorite

Suction Cup Door Handle

Nut Cracker

Customizable Breast Pump

Beer Bottle Mouse Trap

My Customized Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron

Building Another Mouse Trap

Customizable Surprise Egg

Compound Planetary Gears 1300:1

Planck

Customizable Surprise Egg

Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron

Puzzle Box Movement

Puzzle Cylinder

Gate Perch

Ender 3 Clip-On Extruder

Watch Press

Customizable Surprise Cube

Planetary Worm Gear

BoltHobber Tap Plugs

Aldi Trolley Token 10 Stack ($2 AUD)

Music Box Wind Turbine

Timing gear M8 T2.5 64 tooth 50mm

Poor Man's Dual Z for Ender 3

Symmetric Spheroform Tetrahedron

Low Profile iPad 2 Stand

Replay XD to Binocular Lens Adapter

Customizable Camera Shelf Mount

assembly.obj

MicroSD Holder Calibration Cube

Surprise Calibration Cube

8 Ball Puzzle

A Maze Ball

Puzzle_Ball.004

Puzzle Cube Open

Puzzle Cube

Puzzle Box