An accurate and repeatable way to measure belt deflection and thus determine the tension in your printer belts.

This project grew out of a mistake I made purchasing a "belt tensioner" from AliExpress for $20, which turned out to be just a cheap digital tire tread depth gauge and some (very poorly) printed parts with a few hair elastics as the "spring"... Suffice it to say, it was hot garbage as sold, but I was intent on making it useful.

Fast forward 3 weeks of design, I reverse engineered the main clip on part for the foot of the gauge, the rear slide clip and added some features:

    Now snap fits onto your gauge and has optional thru holes for permanent mounting with screws.
    Uses a compression spring for better reliability, repeatability.
    Rear slide clip has retention pin and screw for better mounting.
    Has a proper "normal" pin spacing of 50mm. (was 62.5 previously ?!?)
    Included STEP files for anyone who has a different fitting gauge and wants to make changes.

Hardware required is simple:

    M3x20 Socket Head Cap Screw (1)
    M3x10 SHCS (1) (+2 for optional permanent mounting)
    M3 hex nuts (as required)
    M5x20 steel pins (2)
    Compression spring (I used what I had, OD 14.25, 70mm long, 0.7mm wire, 14 turns) from an old medical device.

The trick is to find a spring that is just right; not too strong so as to damage the belts and still strong enough to return the slide reliably back to start consistantly.

BTW I printed my parts in ABS and the design accommodates for some material shrink, so if you are using PLA be advised. (I don't do PLA, ever!! )


Belt Deflect-O-Meter

Belt Deflect-O-meter.stp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5611674.

This is a vertical foregrip (VFG) and angled foregrip (AFG) for specific use on the new **Gecko 2.0 Gonzo Grip System** platform.

https://youtu.be/_iTEnj1XCqA

These hand grips have been extensively improved in the following areas:

* Split handle design for much better strength and easier print-ability
* Use of M3 heat inserts for longevity of use and easy part replacement
* Screw mounted grip scales for security
* Stronger clamping with more surface and thicker part cross-section
* High scallop finger board for tactile feel and better grip
* Gecko specific high clearance design for hands and trigger guard relief
* Ability to mix and match parts for cool colour combinations 

These were designed only to fit with the GGS available from https://rainbowmods.com/product-tag/taffert-designs/

Enjoy.




Nerf Gecko 2.0 VFG & AFG

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5498190.

Here is a simple mod to delete the underside front rail on the very popular and totally awesome Nerf Gecko. All part of the greater “Gonzo Grip System” soon to be released.

Enjoy.

*Free to use for non-commercial use, except for Rainbow Mods & Props, which has exclusive rights for production.* 

https://youtu.be/j2yNkou1kbw

https://youtu.be/VL_WqJvltuU

***The other mods depicted are also available at https://rainbowmods.com/

https://rainbowmods.com/product/the_gecko_2/



Nerf Gecko 2.0 Rail Delete Mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5383216.

A simple case to house your WEMOS D1 mini project.

Features:

* Snug fit
* Reset button access
* LED viewable
* Will fit over posts
* Cover has wire access port
* USB connector fit relief
* Simple to print
* Cover only fits one way

This works great for those WLED projects that just need something small and hidden.

BTW, a dab of hot glue makes a great LED diffuser for the indicator.(see below)

STEP files provided for those that want to make mods.

Enjoy. 

WEMOS D1 mini Project Box / Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5376507.

Here is a quick and dirty way to keep your precious 0.1mm (or other) shim stock flat and easy to use for bed leveling.

1. Print
2. Cut a strip of your favorite shim stock no more than 20mm wide. (I use 0.1mm)
3. Put into holder

The holder should snap together, but you can use glue or tape to keep it closed. 
I put a dab of hot glue at the back of the shim to act as a nub to make retracting it easier.

Enjoy.


Shim stock feeler gauge for bed leveling

This is an improved version of the 1515 LED mount found in the Voron users github. 
This is a remix of https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Jon/1515_led_mount

This aims to improve the following:

* Proper fit for 30 LED/m 10mm wide strips
* Cable channel for easier daisy chain wire management
* Larger valence section to hide glare better
* Redesigned snap fit section to be easier to print AND still snap into LDO V0.1 kit frames

Still easily printable standing on end for good surface finish.

The “A” version has the original valence profile. The “B” is the new design.

STEP files included, go nuts.

Snap-in 1515 LED mounting solution Voron V0.1 LDO kit compatible 

1515 LDO compatible LED Modular Mount 33mm par_B.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5321560.

Correction to the HINGES.stl file just posted 2022/03/18
-------

NOTE: This design requires the original Voron V0.1 top-hat.
---------

Great work by 93djen, (https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/109713-voron-v01-tophat-spacer-with-hinges) but I had some fit issues and wanted more from the design.

The main changes are:


     - hole placements seemed to be just a bit off for my one piece top-hat, so that was compared to the original Voron V0.1 CAD files

   -  locating pegs that extend down into the frame (as per the original top-hat)

   -  LED ramps on the side that were extended in length to better accommodate 30 LED/m strips

   -  slight move on the hinge pivot point holes as they seemed VERY tight and needed to be filed oval to fully close with the original design
- redesign of segment joints to better match the lip/contour and provide larger glue surface for acetone welding. (yes, I screwed and glued this baby together!)
- Added cable tie holes to the original top-hat front corners, for LED power routing.

 

I just glued the LED carriers to the frame as I trust acetone solvent welding more than cheap adhesive backing at temperatures over 30 C.

STEP files provided for anyone that wants to make changes.

 

Have fun.

Improved Hinged Voron V0.1 Top-hat with LED holders 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5117607.

** V2 NOW RELEASED **

___
Note: This will NOT fit an Ender at all. Only CR10S Pro V2
___


This work is a product of frustration and sweat, as fellow ...Thingiversian ?!? @Mangusman07 and I both found that after purchasing a complete direct drive extruder solution and new all metal hot end from the above mentioned supplier, they failed to provide that last detail that makes the system complete...a fan shroud solution.

Left to our own devices to scour the net for solutions, (clearly we weren't the first people with CR10S Pro V2's to have purchased this product...right?!?)
well after printing three different models that just didn't fit my setup quite right, I got fed up.

So, out came the Google search for CAD models of OEM parts and I fired up the calipers...modified some of the best parts of the closest working solutions I could fine.

Behold the now second working solution to the Creality / MicroSwiss CR10S PRO V2 Super Stock OEM original fans and BLT mounting solution for the all metal hot-end that has the following features:

 - works with stock OEM fans
 - designed for MicroSwiss all metal CR10S Pro hot end (length is key here, no knock-offs, no Ender version)
 - mounts BLTouch at the correct 3mm pin height from nozzle tip
 - dual duct work for better airflow
 - endoscope probe mount for 6mm cameras
 - correct mounting hole placement
 - one piece monolithic construction

-----------------------------
NOTE:
Offset for the BLTouch Probe Tip: X= -46.00 Y= -10.00 

THE Z-PROBE OFFSET IS DETERMINED BY THE FIRMWARE

This is the offset from the switch point of the probe to the tip of the nozzle. 
EVERY printer installation (and probe) is different. So once you tram the bed; home Z; then run a mesh level, it will be calculated by the system.

-----------------------------

Big thanks to all those who came before, without which this would have been a much more daunting task:

SATSANA Ender 3 Remix for Micro - Swiss Direct Drive + BLtouch by Juanolo on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4408571
SATSANA Ender 3 Remix for Micro - Swiss Direct + BLtouch + Endoscope mount by Suidog on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4769804
CR10S Pro V2 Satsana duct for Micro Swiss Direct Drive by AstroRyan on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893486
Micro Swiss Direct Drive by madbuda on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170190
**_Some STLs are included here for completeness only, please see originating designs for more details._

I offer the design as a starting point, with V2 already in the works. This should allow anyone who just bought a new kit to at least get up and running faster.
Soon to be added:
 - cable routing and attachment points
 - corrected and optimized ducting / airflow
 - alternate mounting holes
 - lighter weight

PS. there are a few goodies in here too, like an extruder knob that comes in different flavors, and a Y end-stop extension plate for those who don't know when to quit. (I feel that MicroSwiss should have given us the heads-up on the end-stop)

And for those who CAD, enjoy the STEP files.

Cheers


MicroSwiss Direct Drive CR10S Pro V2 Fan Shroud - PROPER FIT

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4827394.

A 3D printed box / cover for your LM2596.
Should fit most boards and has good ventilation.
Post can be glued shut for protection.

STEP files for anyone who wants to mod it.

PLA/PETG
.20
100% infill
nothing special

Get creative

Buck converter LM2596 protective box / cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6628.

2021/08/08 - UPDATED design for better readability of results. please use v2021 files.

2021/07/22 - STEP file added

+++++++++++++
An homage to Gary Gygax. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Gygax)

This is perfect for when your die goes under that immovable piece of furniture and you NEED to summon you magic missile spell against the attacking Orcs.

Many a lost weekend were spent praying to the gods of chance.

*** Don't step on these babies, they hurt.
I tried to round the corners enough to make for a blunt puncture wound.

I've included the SolidEdge ST3 source files if anyone wants.


1d4 - tetrahedron

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4988.

A simple dreidel based on a plastic model from my kids collection.

Included below is the source model file from SolidEdge ST3.

I used phooky's DXF profiles for the Hebrew letters. (thanks)

Dreidel (inspired by phooky)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914848.

Remix of release lever to make it ambidextrous for people who shoot left (me).
Also added some beef to the central spade to reduce wiggle, as I found original design a shade too loose.
STEP files included.....go nuts.

No supports needed.
Print orientation is as per cover image render.

Nerf Wildcard 2 Magazine Adaptor Release lever - ambidextrous + thicker 

this is just a simple screw jig to help when installing the heat inserts into the rear frame of the Nerf Gecko blaster by Ehdrien. (https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/957928696/the-gecko-3d-printed-foam-dart-blasting)

getting those inserts at just the right angle is a bit tricky, as they have to match the guide holes on the front half of the frame. It's just easier to use the jig than to have to handle the other entire front frame for the same job.

to make the jig I just sliced and diced the STL's for the front half and kept the exact geometry for the holes, filled in the missing gaps and added a short handle.

works great and is easy to print.
**_____
NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY
____**

enjoy.


Nerf Gecko Heatset Insert Jig - Frame.stl

Heatset Insert Jig - Frame.stl

I didn't have a proper 6mm spring and I found the recess too shallow and wide for the only ones I had on hand, ball point pen springs (5mm x 25).....so, some reverse engineering and 20 minutes of printing.

this is what happens when engineers get bored.

kudos to wariwasp for their initial design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791238
(original STLs of files included for completeness only)

enjoy.

----------------
**same conditions as wariwasp's original posting...
NON COMMERCIAL USE ONLY**
-----------------

printing one or two for your friends is cool but please don't sell prints or include it in blasters for your shop unless you have contacted me beforehand so we can try to work something out. I am very reasonable.


Nerf Gecko Mag Release Slide - BallPoint Fix

Modified part to use ballpoint pen springs

center - BallPoint Fix.stl

Cover for the USB SSD connector of my Raspberry Pi 4B NAS.
For use when jumping a USB 3.0 expansion board onto your Raspberry Pi.

RasPi double USB SSD NAS connector cover

Cover for the USB SSD connector of my Raspberry Pi 4B NAS 

USB-cover_A.stp

A simple eye catching "No Cell Phone" sign for assembly with glue.

No Cellphone Sign 3D

back

Red Circle

cell phone

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