Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2767381.

Thank you to mvwrestler for his original, I just added a bit of flair by way of flare.

These feet hold standard 57mm racquetballs and offer subtle noise reduction by dampening the vibration translated to the table from the printer.

No additional hardware required, just remove the existing pedestal feet and reuse the t-nuts/bolts.

Hope you find it useful and happy printing...

-b

CR-10 Racquetball Feet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2669512.

Just in time for the holidays!

These beautiful two color candy stripes are easily made on a single extrusion printer!

Start by printing any of the models in vase mode with solid tops/bottoms first in one color filament, then print another in a different color.  Flip one over and screw them together, it’s that simple.

But beware… they’re addicting.  Don’t believe me?  Print the “cant_put_me_down.stl” first.  That's the first one I printed on Thanksgiving morning and took it to my sister's for family dinner.  Everyone couldn't stop playing with it and by the end of the night, not only had it survived (pre-teens!) but now moves together very smoothly.

I’ve started playing around with hollow centers and chamfers where the colors meet just to start… but I get the feeling this is just the tip of the iceberg with these things.

Definitely thinking of running LEDs up through the center for lighted lamps but share what you think might also be cool.

Oooh, how about a lighthouse model?  Rotating barber pole?

Enjoy!

-b

Candy Stripe Fidget Twisters

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2785748.

This is just a repaired STL of the original that had some non-manifold/self-intersecting triangle issues.  See my make of the original for details on why I posted this remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:444436

*UPDATE*
I have printed this and the repaired model slices great in Simplify3D as well as Cura: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:444835

Also, a big thanks to davwilso and his original design for Gain jugs: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748680

Again, this is just a repaired version of Tails86's remix and if you use Cura, the original seems to slice just fine so be sure to give Tails86 the love for any makes/etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783459

Laundry Detergent Cup Drain for Kirkland Jugs

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2657612.

Kudos to Yagokun for his original "Baby Tooth Smile"
 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058973) and the remix by Cyborgdaron.

For this remix, I've added 4 angled holes large enough to fit good sized brushes and a drain system.

Model size is about 5" tall and 3.25" wide.  Takes about 11 hours to print on my CR-10.

Forgive the pimples on my first print, was having some issues with Simplyfy3D... actual model is very smooth.

** EDIT 05/24/18 **
> Added another version that has a simple curved partition to allow both brushes and a toothpaste tube.  Thanks to TheTWIGS for printing that version to test.  See his make for a photo: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:494830

** EDIT 11/19/17 **
> Print it smaller and you have a nice pen/pencil holder.  :)

Enjoy!


Smiling Toothbrush Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795575.

I absolutely love RaffoSan's CR 10 BED camera mount and have been using it for a while now.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2491366

However, I desired a little more flexibility in its movement and specifically the ability to bring the camera down low over the print bed or sometimes to rotate the camera off to the side of a print to get closeups.

The features I was shooting for was good rotation but also being stable and allowing you to tighten the joint so it doesn't move while printing.  This is not my first attempt at this but the first I'm willing to display publicly!  This uses tapered threads to tighten on a 10mm post.  And I've been using it now for several weeks and many hours of printing.  It's working quite well, it doesn't slip or move once it's tightened and allows me to twist my camera mount in a lot more positions.

Special thanks as well to loco and his "Self-centering tapered-thread Z-axis coupling" which I used in part to make this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:602481

And also thank you to aubenc for their knurled surface library:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32122

I've also created a bi-directional adapter for the Microsoft Lifecam that I happen to be using here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760919

All of the mounts that fit the original will work with this but they might be better if rotated 90 degrees for example.  I've not had time to make any other camera mounts, so let me know if you have one that you need adjusted, I'll see what I can do.

Video timelapse sample showing stability:
https://youtu.be/r7RzW7fvfyc

CR-10 Rotating Arm Adapter for Camera Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793162.

Finally got those extra mirror tiles I bought for my CR-10 off my desk and stored properly!

Thanks to arod24 and his original Glass Bed Shelf, this is slight remix that removes a lot of material so that it prints faster.

Supports 5 pieces of glass with maximum thickness of 4mm.  Space them however far apart you need for your glass width.

Would also work well to store sheets of glass on their side, just mount the brackets on the side of a cabinet vertically.

Glass Bed Shelf Bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948293.

Feel guilty throwing out those spent K-Cups full of coffee grounds?  Would you rather recycle them and use the grounds in your garden?

Made this to extract the coffee grounds easily and efficiently.  Fits on a standard wide-mouth mason jar.

*A little background...*
I had tried 2 other models on Thingiverse and they either broke really easily or didn't extract all of the grounds (or both).  In addition, they took a lot of effort for each K-Cup processed... so I thought a screw-like device would remove the grounds easily without a lot of effort.

This design works great in PLA as well as PETG (have tested both, pictures above are PETG).

**Note that if you use PLA, you must be careful to let used K-Cups cool down before twisting onto the screw and emptying the grounds.  The high temperature of freshly extracted grounds will deform PLA.  Have not had this happen with PETG.**

Hope you find this as useful as I do... happy printing!

**UPDATE 06/07/18**
I've uploaded new STL models that have better reinforcement under the screw's top.  This allows both models to print with no bridging of any kind.  For the standalone model, this means no supports or bridging and PETG is much easier to use.

**UPDATE 06/11/18**
Added left-handed versions for my south-paw brothers and sisters out there.

K-Cup Coffee Grounds Extractor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756332.

This is a simple remix of eried's original "Beard shaping tool" where I've made the curve a little more shallow which better fits the hairline I'm looking for with my own beard.

I also noticed the comb bristles were a tad fragile on the original.  On my first use, I held the guide by the comb area and snapped several under my meaty thumb.  Here I've shortened them a bit and gave a little more reinforcement where they attach.

Now trim yer beards ya scruffy bastards... :)

-b

Shallow Cut Beard Shaping Tool

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760919.

*UPDATE 02/15/18*
I just uploaded a bi-directional version of this so the camera can be mounted on either side.  This goes along with my rotating arm remix you can find here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795575

For some reason my Logitech c310 isn't working properly so I wanted to mount the only other web camera I had in the house, a Microsoft Lifecam.  There wasn't an adapter for this so I made one.

This print requires that you take off the flexible mount bracket (3 tiny screws underneath) and then put the plate and screws back together.  Camera should fit right into the hole (20mm) and the cord will fit into the slot keeping things sturdy.  There's a screw hole provided on the bottom should you want to get serious and really secure it.  I didn't end up using it as it's sturdy enough for me and I didn't want to pre-drill a new hole in the camera's base plate.

Sample print shot with Microsoft Lifecam through Octoprint z-layer timelapse.
https://youtu.be/NAzEJMqsK0w

Hope someone finds it useful and let me know if there's any questions,

-b



Microsoft Lifecam Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2723882.

This takes your TUSH and allows you to easily mount it on top of the CR-10 control box.  Hmmmm, that came out wrong.  ;)

In case you don't have this wonderful spool holder already, find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554

I love being able to move the TUSH anywhere on my desk but there are times I wanted to set it on top of the control box.  This allows you the best of both worlds while still being able to support any size filament spool.

Hope someone finds it useful...

Happy printing!

-b

CR-10 TUSH Bracket

FAST PRINT - Single Wall Basket Weave - NO SUPPORTS
 
The Problem:  All baskets and lids with grid-like perforations result in long print times

If you've printed such a basket you'll notice that the printer spends the majority of its time starting and stopping tiny islands of spires or the walls around the holes in the top/bottom layers.

The Solution:  Replace the grid with a basket weave made with a single extrusion and use straight-lined slats in the lid and bottom
 

Not only does this print nearly 2X faster but the resulting basket holds smaller gel beads without restricting air flow.

With this design, you can print the large basket with lid in around 2hr 40min and just the small container with hydrometer in 2hr 20min.  Or print a full set of both sized containers in 5hrs or less.  That's with .2 layer height, 15% infill, no supports, 2 walls, no ironing at fairly conservative speeds... would love to hear how fast others are able to print this.

I've printed sets in both PLA and PETG with great success.  Please see the additional information below about z-seam locations and slicer settings.

And let me know in the comments how it works for you... happy printing.  :)


Hygrometer Thermometer Digital LCD Monitors…
Can be purchased on Amazon at very reasonable prices: http://a.co/d/6IdBaP4


How this was designed…
I used offset gears as the basis for the pattern. In Tinkercad, there's a shape generator called "Useful gear" created by "this tinkerer" that I used to generate mine. The diameter is 50mm, 23 teeth, pitch 2, height 20, slop .01.

Updated threads were created using Fusion 360 and then incorporated into the Tinkercad models.  Several versions were tested at various tolerances to get just the right fit across multiple materials and layer heights.


Printing tips…
Printing threads is always difficult and I highly recommend paying particular attention to your layer height and z-seam locations for this print.  The best settings I found were to print at .2mm layer height (or lower) and randomize the seam location.


Higher layer heights than .3mm may not provide enough vertical resolution for proper threads.  Stacking the seam in one location (nearest, back, corner, etc) can make the threads too tight AND can affect the quality of the basket weave.  I recommend setting the seam location to random and dial in your retraction settings to keep zits/blobs to a minimum for this print.

For best results, I would stick to .2mm and z-seam random.

If using Prusaslicer, be sure to check the box for Detect thin walls as this will ensure the basket weave is a single extrusion and not double.  It will still work if printed with slightly thicker weave but becomes a bit too compacted when printing with PETG (for example).  For best results, make sure that your slicer is only doing a single extrusion on the weave portion.

Fast Print In-Spool Silica Gel (Desiccant) Container with Hygrometer

Large basket can be used with simple lid or hygrometer housing

silica_gel_container_-_large_container.stl

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