Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4549254.

This is a very naive rework of "[Modular Paint Rack for 25-35-50 mm Sized Bottles](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3691925)" by Empiricus. The original requires a 300mm print bed, so I wanted to try to make something smaller to fit more printers. I sized it down to approximately 200mm x 200mm.

This is just a first attempt -- literally all I did was cut chunks out of the middle of the parts and then stick the remaining pieces together. To assemble this you will also need "Bridge1.stl" and "Bridge2.stl" from the original -- I didn't modify them so I didn't bother including them.

I haven't tried printing and assembling this yet, so there's a good chance it won't work. But hopefully it does!

There are two versions of the "35mm" file. When I chopped up that one the remaining pieces didn't connect very well. "35mm.stl" is the chopped-and-merged version; "35mm_extra_connectors.stl" has some extra material added to make the connections more solid. But it looks janky. Well, they both do. Did I mention this is just a quick-and-dirty first attempt?

Modular Paint Rack Remix for 200mm x 200mm beds

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4549478.

This is an add-on for the Prusa LACK enclosure, for mounting the PSU outside the enclosure.

I previously had the v1 enclosure, which let you remove the entire top, so when I needed to pull the printer out for maintenance it wasn't much trouble to pull the PSU with it.

For the v2 enclosure the design assumes that every time you remove the printer from the enclosure, you must also disconnect the PSU cables from the printer. I didn't want to do that, so instead I came up with this solution.

I cut out a section at the back of the table top, large enough to pass the entire PSU through. (For sizing, you can just print the "cable hole liner" part and trace around it.)

The design includes two parts:

- "cable hole liner" slides into the hole in the table to finish the hole and keep the cables from continually rubbing against the inside of the table.

- "cable hole lid" covers the hole while in use -- a small opening is left for the cables to pass through.

Prusa LACK enclosure PSU (cable) passthrough

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4599727.

A cover to protect the front (including the lens) of the Mevo Start camera.

It's a snug fit so it doesn't fall off. I'm not sure if that will cause scratching in the future (it hasn't done anything so far but I've only used it for about a week).

Mevo Start front (lens) cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4233167.

Generate a 3d model of data in a grid (great for "daily data for a year")

------

**Personal side note**

I added the two photos of the white graph after I originally posted this. The graph in those photos is particularly meaningful to me right now (March 22, 2020) as the world is living with the uncertainty of the COVID-19 ("Coronavirus") pandemic. The graph depicted in those photos shows the daily number of active (living, not recovered) COVID-19 cases in China from January 22 through March 20, 2020.

I live in the US, so why did I choose China? Because as of right now they are pretty much the only place in the world where the number of active cases is going down. This graph represents hope for the future, and the ability of humans to overcome challenges.

------

This script (`daily-by-year-elevation-graph.scad`) generates a 3d model
consisting of a grid of cells (X and Y axes) The elevation (Z axis) of
each cell is defined by a value in an array of data.

It also (optionally) embosses a label in the bottom of the model.

The included STL files are meant as examples of the types of graphs that can be created. They are made from the example data (data-by-year__example.scad). Those graphs represent weather data (high temperature and precipitation) for Zion National Park in Utah, USA for the years 2018 and 2019. (The OpenSCAD rendering and the red-gray-blue print show the 2018 daily high temperature data.) 

#### How to use:

1. Save a copy of the file `data-by-year__example.scad` with the name `data-by-year.scad`. This file is where you can put the data for your chart. (Alternatively
   you can name the file whatever you want and just change the `include` statement in the code.)

2. Open the file `daily-by-year-elevation-graph.scad` using [OpenSCAD](https://openscad.org/)

3. Run the script to see a chart. By default the data is organized into a grid (from the top-down view) somewhat like a GitHub contribution graph. Each "column" (y-axis) is a week, with days running down from Sunday to Saturday.
   
   However, the code doesn't require a fixed number of values or specific grid dimensions. By changing some of the variables you can use it to show (for example) days, hours, or even values where the x- and y-axis don't represent time at all.

4. You can change the data in `data-by-year.scad`. The format is documented there. You can also configure several parameters in `daily-by-year-elevation-graph.scad`, to change (among other things) the dimensions of the grid, the scale, etc.

Note that this code was developed using OpenSCAD version 2018.10.13.ci145, and it
uses some apis that are not available in earlier versions.

The "primary" home of this code is on GitHub: https://github.com/probertson/daily-by-year-elevation-graph

If you make improvements, please submit the changes as a Pull Request there.


3D Elevation graph (great for "daily by year" data)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236902.

**** Update 2020-07-21 ****

I added a "shelf" part that mounts onto the stand and holds a phone (or other thing). It has been very handy for setting my personal phone between my two test devices.


**** Original description ****

(Part of) A solution for mounting multiple devices such as phones, tablets, etc. to a desk. 


Note that this doesn't actually include any mechanism to attach the device. It simply gives you a rod clamped to the edge of the desk, to which you can mount things. The rod has a diameter of 25mm, which works well for any device mount that is meant for mounting the device to bicycle or motorcycle handlebars.

In my "day job" I recently transitioned to working as a mobile app developer. I wanted a solution for having my test devices easily at hand, while minimizing the actual desk real-estate required. Because I have a keyboard drawer that slides out from under the desk, having the phones clamped to the edge of the desk has been a great solution for me.

This model consists of three functional parts:

**Clamp**

Clamps to the edge of a desk, and has a cylindrical opening for inserting the shaft, as well as a knob that can be tightened to lock the shaft in place.

**Shaft**

A modular set of components that can build a shaft of the desired length. There are three "building blocks":

- Threaded shaft (130mm without threads) -- it's a rod with a male thread on one end and a female thread on the other. Thread multiple shafts together to make something longer. (I use 3 of them together to hold 2 phones, with enough extra space that I can turn them to landscape orientation, or I could add 1-2 more phones in portrait orientation.)
- Male cap -- add one of these to give a "finished" look to the female end of the shaft(s)
- Female cap -- add one of these to give a "finished" look to the male end of the shaft(s)

** Shelf **

A support surface that can be put on the shaft to hold an actual device. You slide it over the shaft before one or both clamps. You can use the same small knob to that is used to hold the shaft in the clamp to fix the shelf onto the shaft.

Clamp, rod, and stand for mounting devices to desk

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697962.

A simple model of a cheerleader megaphone with handle. To make it a keychain, attach a small keyring to the handle.

This prints vertically with no supports.

If your printer supports changing colors at different layers, it can be printed in different colors. I used this to make the rings around the ends silver. You could also add a stripe to the body of the megaphone that way.

Cheerleader megaphone

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4549401.

This is a remix of the [dual-fan nozzle cooler for Original Prusa i3 mk3S by ANTALIFE](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3869092) (which is itself a remix of [the original by RosyRL](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3697665)) .

I've used the original for a while. While looking to replace it I discovered ANTALIFE's "reinforced" remix and I really liked the concept.

However, I also just switched to a different heat break (a Slice Engineering Copperhead). It is slightly longer than the original Prusa E3D heat break, so at the default size my previous nozzle cooler points at the heater block rather than below it, causing some problems and not doing its job very well.

This is a remix that is 2mm "taller" -- that is, the fan outlets are positioned 2mm further below the extruder body than the original. This makes it so it is positioned in about the same place (relative to the nozzle) as the original with the OEM heat break.

It's not 100% identical -- I tried modifying the model directly in Blender but that got too messy so I ended up re-building it in Fusion 360. I've also included the F3D file so that if anybody else wants to make further changes you don't have to re-do everything from scratch like I did.

Dual Part Cooling Fan Mount / Shroud for Prusa i3 MK3S (Reinforced) (Extended)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697965.

A keychain that was designed as a gift for someone who is in color guard. The crossed flag and rifle are the conventional items that are twirled by color guard. The circle is just for the keychain.

There are three different versions of the STL. They are the same design, but with varying heights (z axis). I did this to create increased contrast between the elements and to enable multi-color printing (switching colors at layer changes).

- v1 has all objects the same height
- v2 the ring is thinner but the flag and rifle are the same height
- v3 the ring is thinnest, then the flag and rifle, and the flag pole is thicker.

Color Guard keychain

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4549440.

This is an add-on for the Creality LD-002r resin printer to help drain the resin from the build plate (and model) after a print.

UPDATE: I haven't personally tried it, but others in the comments have said that it also works for the LD-002H. Thanks to those who tried it out!

Other designs have a single angle (rotating around the y-axis). Using one of those I noted that the resin tends to collect on the downward edge, and also inside the "pocket" formed by the bracket. I wanted to be able to tilt the build plate in two axes so that it would drain to a point.

Because having the build plate at two angles moves it closer to the front of the printer, this version also shifts the build plate further towards the back of the printer. That way while it's draining you can (hopefully) put the printer cover back on to protect the resin in the vat. The build plate itself won't hit the printer cover. However, taller prints might, so you'll want to check carefully while putting the printer cover back on.

Also, with this design, part of the build plate is hanging over the printer outside the vat, so there is a chance that resin can drip from the build plate or model onto the printer. To prevent this, I personally slip a folded piece of paper towel under the front of the cover to shield the printer between the vat and the front of the cover (see photos)

This is listed as a remix because I designed it by measuring the other design and borrowing heavily from its style. However, I ended up building it from scratch in Fusion 360. I didn't bother adding a screw hole in the part where the build plate attaches -- in my experience it's stable and doesn't move at all.

Creality LD-002R/LD-002H Double Angle Build Plate Drain

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4549461.

I designed this as an alternative mount for the PSU while building a LACK enclosure for my Prusa i3 mk3. (It is designed for the silver PSU -- I'm not sure if it works for the black one or not).

I wanted to have the PSU outside the enclosure but I wanted it on the side rather than the back as in the original design. I also made it mount horizontally.

There are two parts: "top" is the larger part that holds the top of the PSU to the underside of the table; "bottom" is a small block that screws to the leg of the table and in turn the PSU screws to it (using the screw holes where the PSU normally attaches to the base of the printer frame.

I originally used this with the "v1" Prusa Enclosure, and when I switched to the v2 enclosure it still works just fine.

Horizontal PSU mount for Prusa i3 mk3/S LACK enclosure

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