Design is to be printed out in separate parts in the corresponding colors to eliminate the need to paint. This also allows everyone to be able to print this design regardless of what printer you are using.

Combining a Jawa and Shy Guy just seems like a no-brainer when mashing the Nintendo worlds with the star-wars universe. I am so pleased with the results and absolutely love this character. 

There is currently an "Arms up" version and an "Arms Down" version available to print with this release. There are two different sizes appearing in some of the photos. The smaller version is available here for free, while I have scaled up the design 215% and adjusted the clearances between the parts in the design for better fitment of the parts when printing out a large version of this design. The Larger version with adjusted clearances is only available on my Patreon. 

I don’t normally like to allow re-mixes of my designs, but I am opening the doors on this one as I love to encourage creativity amongst my supporters.

 Printing…

Should be simple enough all the parts are oriented to the build plate in such a way that eliminates the need for support with the exception of the Red Hood. This is one piece that is available to print in two different orientations. Standing straight up supports are unnecessary, but with all my test prints I found I liked the print quality of the top of the hood much better by placing the front of the hood down against the build plate and adding the support to the large flat area where the mask attaches.
I do have separate pieces for the Arms up and Arms down versions that are interchangeable so if just printing one copy make sure to have the appropriate pieces laid out on the build plate in your slicer program.

Assembly…

Should be fairly simple. Dry fit everything in place before adding glue.
I highly recommend PLA Gloop, if you can get your hands on it.
PLA Gloop Website
Starbond Adhesives make a good CA or super glue alternative at a lower price point. I recommend the Medium or Thick formula. I would defiantly pick up some Accelerator if your planning on using the Thick formula.
Not really too much to add here. I think I did struggle the first time inserting the black eye pieces into the mask the first time I assembled the new mask design, but I eventually figured out the orientation of the eyes are important. It does take a second to figure out where they go. I highly recommend dry fitting these into place before adding glue.
I found starting assembly at the bottom feet and working my way up from the base made the process go smoothly. 

Suggested Filaments

Bambu Matte Black
Bambu Matte White
Bambu Matte Blue 
Duramic Rouge Red – probably my favorite red filament
Polymaker Matte Earth Brown
Polymaker Silk Gold

For More of my Nintendo / Star-Wars Mashups please visit my Cults3d Page here...
https://cults3d.com/en/users/PLA-N-PA/3d-models

You can follow me on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If you’re interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Thanks for checking out my design.



Jawa Shy Guy, Multipart

Red Arms Down Right Prt 1.stl

#throwback

Remastered my Boo design in time for October!!

I included sets of 3mf files in the download, because the standard print profiles on a Bambu X1C isn’t built for quality when overhangs are concerned. Feel free to use my 3mf files to help get the overhangs looking good. Between the print setting adjustments, and tweaks to the original design. It’s possible to get a great looking print even off the Bambu printer.

The biggest issue you may run into is poor build plate adhesion. I completed 6 prints of this body orientation with only one fail. I clean my Bambu cool plate between each print with alcohol and when dried I sprits the build plate lightly with Aqua net Hair spray. I didn’t clean the plate on the one test and I believe it may have led to the failure. 
Don’t forget to add a brim to the white main body to increase build plate adhesion no matter what printer you are using.

I used matt white filament on most of the test, simply because, I don’t know what the deal is with mat filaments but they seem to stick to the build plate like super glue and I come close to damaging the plate trying to get it off.

For the original Boo files and more print options please, see Mario Boo Ghost
You can follow me on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/ to find out what I designs I am currently working on.

If you’re interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here… https://patreon.com/planpa3d



Boo Multipart Remaster

White Face Body.stl

A toy Luigi that moves and spins!

His large hands are perfect to hold various pens and sharpies. I am including a blank hand uncut if you wanted to make the holes in the hands fit different size things as well.
Print settings…

Just about all the parts can be printed without support. I would recommend adding tree support to the Tan Face part, but I accidently forgot to add them and surprisingly the print turned out just fine!
Assembly…

The Arms are on a ball joint and move freely in all directions. Make sure to insert the arms through the red shoulder pieces before glueing the shoulder pieces in place.

I used a piece of scrap filament for the white eye centers in the small original size Mini Mario. Taking a long piece and pressing it into the small hole in the black eye piece creates a perfect tool to glue the eyes in place. Just trim off the excess white filament once the glue has set. Check out my TikTok video for a better explanation.

When assembling the head, slide the back of the head into the brown hair first, then side the face into position. It pops into place when aligned correctly. Then add the side burns to the sides of the face. The brown hair holds the two head pieces firmly in place. 

Do Not glue the Main body Pin the lower half of the body without adding the Head and upper body first.

Press the main body split key into the head and drop the completed upper body on top of the pin. Put a few drops of glue in the hole for the pin in the lower body, then with the head and upper body loosely in place, press the pin into the lower body, and let the glue set.

When assembled correctly the Head and Upper body should swivel independently from one another. With the body and arms free to move he’s pretty fun to play with, posing in different directions.
I also created a Toy Mario check my profile for the design

If you’re interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

I have a version of the design scaled up 225% and adjusted the clearances between the parts for better fitment posted on Patreon now.

You can follow me on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently creating or check out my TikTok, https://www.tiktok.com/@pla.n.pa for assembly videos

Articulating Toy Mini Luigi multi part

Green Hat.stl

A toy Mario that moves and spins!

His large hands are perfect to hold various pens and sharpies. I am including a blank hand uncut if you wanted to make the holes in the hands fit different size things as well.

Print settings…

Just about all the parts can be printed without support. I would recommend adding tree support to the Tan Face part, but I accidently forgot to add them and surprisingly the print turned out just fine!

Assembly…

The Arms are on a ball joint and move freely in all directions. Make sure to insert the arms through the red shoulder pieces before glueing the shoulder pieces in place.

I used a piece of scrap filament for the white eye centers in the small original size Mini Mario. Taking a long piece and pressing it into the small hole in the black eye piece creates a perfect tool to glue the eyes in place. Just trim off the excess white filament once the glue has set. Check out my TikTok video for a better explanation.

When assembling the head, slide the back of the head into the brown hair first, then side the face into position. It pops into place when aligned correctly. Then add the side burns to the sides of the face. The brown hair holds the two head pieces firmly in place. 
Do Not glue the Main body Pin the lower half of the body without adding the Head and upper body first.
Press the main body split key into the head and drop the completed upper body on top of the pin. Put a few drops of glue in the hole for the pin in the lower body, then with the head and upper body loosely in place, press the pin into the lower body, and let the glue set.

When assembled correctly the Head and Upper body should swivel independently from one another. With the body and arms free to move he’s pretty fun to play with, posing in different directions.

I also created a Toy Luigi check my profile for the design
If you’re interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d
I have a version of the design scaled up 225% and adjusted the clearances between the parts for better fitment posted on Patreon now.

You can follow me on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently creating or check out my TikTok, https://www.tiktok.com/@pla.n.pa for assembly videos


Articulating Toy Mini Mario multi part

Red Hat.stl

Multi-Part design is to be printed out in separate parts in the corresponding colors to eliminate the need to paint. This also allows everyone to be able to print this design regardless of what printer you are using.

Absolutely love the new Paper Mario 1000-year door, or is it a re-master?  Either way the art, gameplay, characters, and dialog are fantastic!! I haven’t gotten much play time as my family seems to be hogging it for the time being… maybe soon I’ll get my chance.

I saw these goombas and created my own to print out! My wife saw the one I made, and demanded an army of them. Haha 

These are easy to print and fun to put together. I have been successful printing out all the parts without support. I do add a brim to the small teeth for better bed adhesion. 

I don’t normally like to allow re-mixes of my designs, but I am opening the doors on this one. 

If you’re interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d
You can follow me on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently creating or check out my TikTok, https://www.tiktok.com/@pla.n.pa for assembly videos

Thanks for checking out my design, Happy Printing!!


Paper Goomba – Multi Part

Brown Main Body Face.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5776217.

Created this design after seeing 3DTwinkie's Paper Bob-omb. 
Absolutely wonderful idea and turned out great!!
This is more of a re-design than a remix, but I wanted to credit 3DTwinkie, as I love his ideas.

I wanted to create something similar where the bomb was a container of sorts and could easily be printed without supports. 

With the right filament and printer set-up the seam or split in the bomb is barely visible, and looks like he is smiling. 
The head can be positioned in three different orientations when attached to the bottom.
The rotation to unlock the container is opposite or “left-handed” threaded to confuse any unwanted persons from opening the container, but you can always mirror the bottom body and feet to correct this.

I included two different versions of the bottom bomb and feet. A running or standing version. Just make sure to print out the correct feet to align with the bottom bomb.

This version is a tad larger than the original design, I had to scale things up to get the twist locking design printing correctly with a 0.4 nozzle. So, I wouldn’t recommend scaling this design down, although it prints out great when scaling up.

Everything should load in slicer program in the recommended orientation to be printed without supports.

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Thanks for checking out my design and happy printing!!


Paper Bob-omb container

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5135317.

If you like this design, and wanted more, check out the stash pot version of it here..
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/mario-mushroom-stash-pot

Switch game organizer version available here
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/mario-mushroom-secret-switch-game-organizer


Designed in Fusion 360 for MMU printers, Not to be printed in seperate parts

Used my Tenlog Duel head printer to create one print of the top pieces. Just about any color combination should work.
Printed out the other pieces separately and glued them together, should be self explanatory. The mush bottom base part is a little goofy underneath when printed out. Cleaned it up with some minor sanding, besides who looks at the bottom of a planter?
 The original design is rather large, don't think I ever did print this at 100%
The Planters pictured are at 80% scaled down. I wouldn't go too much further down without checking on the small eye centers in Cura, and seeing if they are going to print right for you. In fact I do suggest printing the eye centers at 1% or 2% smaller to make sure they will fit. Everything else came together perfectly.
Bottom and top main parts where printed with 4 walls, 6 bottoms/tops at .2 res in Cura
Added extra shell material to help insure planter will hold up with time. Then not only glued, but PLA welded the two main pieces together with a soldering iron to ensure strength in the joining parts.
Also included the Mario coin décor. Found this printed best split in two pieces and then glued together. Used pipe cleaners to hang them to the trees.
Any questions let me know..
Thanks for checking out my design. 

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Update
Fixed bottom of planter to print out much better looking



Mario Mushroom Money Tree Planter. MMU printers only

Mario Mushroom Money Tree Planter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426766.

After creating my piranha plant design, I was on a kick to put together another loved video game plant. 
You could probably guess where I got the inspiration.

I designed the eyes to follow you, no matter where you’re standing in the room. The black part of the eye is inset, while the white part slightly extrudes out. 

This design can be printed with your basic single extruder printer. While the piranha plant designs found below, will need an IDX or duel extruder printer.

Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426723
Different Bases - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/piranha-plant-v2

There’s nothing to complicated about printing this design other than the leaves. I would suggest starting your build there.
I aligned the flat parts of the leaf 1 right and leaf 1 left together on the build plate and used a brim to not only have better bed adhesion, but to keep the parts together until I was ready to assemble the plant.
I printed both parts of each leaf together, then moved on to the next leaf, so I didn’t get pieces mixed up.
Leaf one has one notch cut out, two has two notches, etc. You can check the description of the files to position them correctly in the stem.
Assembly should be straight forward, but if you have any questions, just let me know.
Thanks for checking out my design!
Happy Printing!!

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Sunflower Plant V1

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426723.

Red and white parts are designed to be printed together on a MMU or multi color printer. As well as the dark and light green leaves.

This project turned out to be one of my favorite designs inspiring me to create multiple versions as well as another plant. I just simply love experimenting with different colors on the main head and head spots, as well as the stem and leaves. 

I included just the flower pot base in this free version, but have created other bases and a different version of the stem available here..

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/piranha-plant-v2

Free Sunflower design here...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426766

Pea shooter design available here..

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pea-shooter-launcher-that-works-pla-n-pa

****** Created a remix to add parts for the single extruder printers ******
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5451481


I tried to make most of this design able to print on your average single extruder printer, but unfortunately could not come up with an efficient way to print the head and the spots without a duel extruder, or IDX printer.
The “Top Head” and “Top Head Spots” should be printed together, as well as the “Bottom Head” and “Bottom head Spots”.
“Back Leaf Light Green” and “Back leaf Dark Green” should be printed together to complete half of the back leaf then mirrored in your slicer program to complete the 2nd half of the leaf. The same process will be necessary to complete the front leaf.
Everything else should be self-explanatory, just align the flat spots of each part on the build plate. Most parts can be printed without supports, but a few will need them.
Once everything is printed, I start assembling the model by attaching the tongue in the bottom head with some 3D gloop. Then the teeth should fall into place when they are aligned correctly.
Letting the tongue and teeth set in the bottom head, I attach the head pins and remaining teeth in the top head.
I then take time to attach the leaf halves together, by applying a small amount of gloop to one side and holding the respective mirrored side together. 
Setting the leaves aside to set up, I finish attaching the top and bottom head pieces together, and carefully apply gloop along the groove for the lips to be attached. You will notice the flat spot on the lips will line up with the bottom, or tongue part of the head.
I then attach the two stem parts together. It helps to align the arrow on the bottom of the stem with the arrow on the black base and glue the stem to the base at roughly the same time.
After leaving the stem set up in the base for a few minutes, It should be fine to dip the respected leaf ends in gloop and insert them into position on the stem.
The stem and the head will need attached together next. Be sure to correctly align the top of the head upwards. I apply gloop to not only the stem heptagon, but to the cut out on the stem as well.
Last I apply gloop to the diagonal part of the pot top and to the diagonal of the black bases bottom and attach the two together.

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Thanks for checking out my design.
Happy printing!!


Piranha plant V1 / MMU printer required

Piranha plant V1 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5451481.

Created these parts for the single extruder users that would want to print my pirahna plant design. I havent printed these parts myself but they should work. I numbered the spots and included a map of where the numbers go.
As far as the leaves they will still need oriented and mirrored in your slicer program.

Good luck and happy Printing.

Piranha plant V1 Single extuder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939906.

The design is an open paint can, tilted at a 15 degree angle with some black paint spilling out, There is a paint brush floating, suspended in mid air with paint dripping off the brush. Can, paint, and brush appear to frozen in time.
The paint can is a standard quart size, and with the model put together it stands slightly under 18inches. Pieces fit snugly together, so be sure your printer is calibrated. I am still in debate about keeping the paint can open as a storage container.
The paint can label was designed in Microsoft PowerPoint, printed out on basic paper then glued on the plastic can.
As this is my first full model designed in Fusion360, I am posting the virtual model on thingiverse.com so anyone who wants, could print it for free.
The 3D printing community has given me a lot and I am more than happy to contribute back.
Paint brush parts should be printed out with minimal infill (6%) to help maintain balance of the model.
The Paint splash should be printed out with heavy infill (45%) once again to help balance the model
When printing out the brush bristles part, I adjusted the flow rates up and down ( 95% to 110%) to accentuate the layer lines and create a brush effect.
For a better understanding of how to print out this model look at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3617536
Any questions please send me a message and I will try and help.

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

Paint it Black

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4975087.

Designed these fun and useful decorations to be sold in a local art gallery. 

Pete and Boo are both printed out of a glow in the dark PLA (DURAMIC 3D PLA Glow in The Dark Filament), and they each have a light that can be activated by unscrewing the hat on their heads.
There are large strong magnets in both their front and back halves. This makes it possible to attach them to a thin window, a piece of plexiglass. or a screen door, and have the effect of them flying through the material.


BOO, Large Ghost
If Boo was to be put in a box it would have to be 7" wide x 12'' deep x 13" tall.
The front head portion is the most interesting and useful thing about Boo. The strong magnets create an excellent bond to a metal door or fridge, and the shape of the sculpture is great for hanging a Halloween reef. The tea light inside the head flickers, creating a flame-like glow. It has its own timer and will only stay on for 5 hrs. then turn back on the next day at the same time it was turned on the day before. The battery is reported to last for a month on this operation.
Magnets I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K586ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Light I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085DC2JQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Split this one to print with no supports, will need glued together. I recommend using the pins to get things lined up. 

Pete, Small Ghost
If Pete was to be put in a box it would have to be 2.75'' wide x 4.5'' deep x 5'' tall
Pete is fun to play around with on the fridge, or screen door. Both his head and butt are useful magnets. The light inside Pete's head is tiny and bright. It doesn't have a timer and the battery is reported to only last 3 or 4 hrs. I had to special order tiny lights that were supposed to fit, but ended up cutting them down with a dremel. Not sure if the light is even necessary.
Takes 12, 10mm magnets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753ZPBLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Light I used will not fit unless cut down
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734HGMWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 
I have been printing this one upside down in one piece, yeah it will need supports, but its not too much of a waist of time or material.

Either hat will need supports as well, might have designed it so they didn't, but I like the effect of a different surface texture on the underside of the hat.

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d



Pete and Boo 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5168166.

A Mario style ghost floating around, suspended by his enormous tongue! Haha

Check here for the King Boo M&M stash pot version,
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/king-boo-m-m-container-stash-pot

Been wanting to design this ghost for awhile, but wasn't able to come up with an idea to get it to float around until now. The tongue makes the perfect stand for this Amazing module.

Split the main ghost in two easy to print pieces. Orient the flat spots on the build plate and other than the supports for the pin holes no other supports are required.
 The mouth insert and tongue print out and fit great at 100% or what ever scale you desire. 
The eyes can be a bit tricky to pop into place, Study the module around the eyes and orient them correctly, placing the bottom part of the eye in place then pushing the rest in with a pen does the trick for me. If you have too much difficulty popping them in place try scaling them down 1%  
Make sure to put the mouth insert in place before attempting to press the teeth in. It just makes thing easier. The teeth should fit in fine printed at 100% but once again, if they are too much trouble try scaling them down 1%

Thanks for checking out my design!!

UPDATE 1/10/22 Added a loose fit teeth file. if you are haveing problems fitting the regular teeth in the model try this one with added tolerances. hopefully this helps.

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Mario Boo Ghost

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5364448.

Tottally inspired by "Zelda Skyward Sword"
Playing the game again recently, I saw the banded shield and just had to create my own copy. Printing the wooden parts in wood PLA gave me the idea to create this wooden sword.

For the Banded shield design check it out here
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/skyward-sword-banded-shield

All the pieces fit on a Cr10 size printer, but may need cut down to fit something smaller. 
The Sword completed measures about 28 inchs in length, and is designed for an 8mm threaded rod to be inserted down the center to add stability. 

I used a .6 nozzle to print all the wooden parts at .28 layer hieght, standing the blade up with the widest part on the printers build plate. Being a rather tall print, I slowed down the print speed and the travel motions to get a cleaner piece.  I would recomend useing a low infill %, 8 or 10 to complete the blade and the blade tip, and a much higher % 60 to 80 for the handle parts. This will help keep the sword balanced at the gaurd.

Once all the pieces are printed out it should be relativly simple to put together. I cut my threaded rod at 23.5 inches and put a nylock nut on the one end. Then inserted the rod down the main blade and the gaurd before adding anouther nut. The Handle pieces are named consecutivly in order to add them to the threaded rod. I added a third nut to the end  of the handle before glueing on the decrative handle cap. Last I inserted two pins in the blade top and glued it on the the blade bottom.

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Thanks for checking out my design.
I hope you enjoy and happy printing 
Jeremiah Lee





Links Wooden Sword 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5203686.

Happy valentines you wicked ones!! Haha

Love the colors, Duramic silk red and CC3D Black Marble PLA, just pop together. 

To create this wicked heart make sure to use a brim when printing the main heart piece and it should print out just fine without supports, in fact non of the parts will need supports.
I included two different tails a shorter one as in the picture and a tall one. Witchever you prefer, again no supports needed.
I would recomend glueing the heart to the tail first and letting it set up for awile before attempting to glue the other pieces on to the heart.
The horns should just press into place without issue.
The wings I printed out flat to the build plate, and once everything was glued together I hit them lightly with a heat gun / hairdryer to give them a stylized look
I printed out the wicked smile and hit it with a heat gun as well, shapeing it around the heart before glueing it into place.
The tail point top and bottom I glued together before attaching it to the tail itself.

I highly recomend 3D gloop as glue for this model as the conection between the tail and heart broke free on me when useing just Super Glue / C A glue. If you dont have any 3D gloop, try fileing or sanding the tail part flat before glueing the heart on top.

You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on

If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://patreon.com/planpa3d

Thanks for checking out my design.
Have fun and happy printing!!

Wicked winged heart

I’m super pleased, Super Mario!! pleased to be releasing my new turtle shell design.

Created this turtle shell to be printed out in corresponding colors and assembled to eliminate any need to paint the final product.

NOTE: This version does not include the Switch game holder insert, the hex pieces to hold the spikes, nor the spiked pieces themselves.

If you enjoy this free design and wish to support more designs like this, Please consider purchasing the spiked shell version of the design with the switch game organizer insert located here,
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/spiked-turtle-shell-switch-game-organizer

I designed the top portion of the shell to be easily removed with the addition of 4 magnets sized 8 x 3mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZFCJ59V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 All parts are oriented to the build plate correctly, and are super simple to print. There is only 4 parts that will need supports, the split white trim pieces, and the bottom outside tail and head.
Once all parts are printed assembly should be a breeze. The Hex pieces in the top shell are all numbered to their corresponding locations in the top shell inside hub, and are easily inserted in place when gluing together. 
The flat mark on the belly outside piece should be directed towards the tail end of the bottom inside hub marked with the “T”. The “T” designates the tail end of the bottom inside hub. It should be self-explanatory where the other bottom outside pieces fit in the bottom hub.

I recommend printing the Trim pieces separate with supports, then using the trim pins to glue the two halves together, but if you want to print it as one piece, I included a one-piece trim part in the listing.
With the trim printed and assembled, it should be glued to the completed bottom shell.
When adding the magnets to the printed pieces be sure to orient them correctly so the completed top shell falls in place and in held to the rest of the shell.

Thanks for checking out my Turtle Shell Container, and if you could please post a make. I would love to see your print.

You can follow me on instagram, 
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
to find out what I designs I am currently working on.

 If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here…
https://www.patreon.com/planpa3d

planpa3d

Achievements

Seedling

Fan Favorite

Pinned models

Mario Boo Ghost

Paper Goomba – Multi Part

Articulating Toy Mini Mario multi part

Articulating Toy Mini Luigi multi part

Jawa Shy Guy, Multipart

Boo Multipart Remaster

Articulating Toy Mini Luigi multi part

Articulating Toy Mini Mario multi part

Paper Goomba – Multi Part

Paper Bob-omb container

Mario Mushroom Money Tree Planter. MMU printers only

Sunflower Plant V1

Piranha plant V1 / MMU printer required

Piranha plant V1 Single extuder

Paint it Black

Pete and Boo

Mario Boo Ghost

Links Wooden Sword

Wicked winged heart

Turtle Shell Container