It's a big button for push to talk, gaming, whatever. Step on it, sit on it, elbow it.

Micro switch taken from an old mouse. Designed around this particular microcontroller:

[Type-C USB Pro Micro ATmega32U4 5V 16MHz](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCW67NJP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). YMMV regarding fitment if using a different MCU.

Foot Button

foot-button.step

stop.stl

A cooler for Ender 3 with Revo CR hotend, for stock Ender 3/Pro, plus alternate parts for Ender 3/Pro with the Creality X-axis linear rail upgrade.

STEP files and an f3d file are provided for customization.

Revo CR Cooler for Ender 3

main-m4.step

Revo CR Cooler for Ender 3.step

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4833258.

# Shower Curtain Hooks
---

Instructions:

 * Hook it on the rod.
 * Poke the small end through the hole in the shower curtain.
 * Rotate it around until the big end is against the curtain.
 * Take your monthly shower.
 * Enjoy.

Shower Curtain Hooks

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4899932.

# Ender 3 Runout Sensor Mech


### Parts
* 2 - M4 x 30 screws
* 2 - M4 x 6 screws
* 1 - M4 x 16 screw
* 1 - M5 x 8 screw
* 3 x 608 skateboard bearings.
* 1 x Microswitch
* Whichever wire and connectors you need to connect the microswitch to your controller board.

### Optional Parts
* M10 Pneumatic coupler if you use a section of PTFE tube for the filament guide.
* PTFE (bowden) tube.

STL/STEP files for a printable coupler and a guide that can be used instead of the threaded coupler mount are included.

---
The switch I used came out of a computer mouse. It should be fairly simple to make a housing to fit other types of switches.

The coupler used is the kind that goes in the hotend. This size will let the TPFE tubing pass through. If you don't have one you can print the included coupler STLs. Alternatively, there is a simple guide that doesn't use a piece of tubing.

This design uses a modified [Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488) to mount to the printer.

Everything can be printed without supports.

---
![image 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/e3-runout-sensor-mech-v2/develop/images/image3.jpg)

Extras
---
![image 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/e3-runout-sensor-mech-v2/develop/images/image4.jpg)



Ender 3 Runout Sensor Mech

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906471.

# Filament Runout Sensor Mech
#### 3D Printer filament runout sensor


### Parts
* 3 - M4 x 30 screws
* 2 - M4 x 6-8 screws
* 2 - M4 x 10-12 screws
* 1 - M5 x 8 screw
* 2 O-rings (I'm using #13) or rubber bands
* 3 x 608 skateboard bearings.
* 1 x Microswitch
* Whichever wire and connectors you need to connect the microswitch to your controller board.

### Optional Parts
* M10 Pneumatic coupler if you use a section of PTFE tube for the filament guide.
* PTFE (bowden) tube.
* Mountting braket.
* T-nuts or hammer nuts depending on your mounting solution.

STL/STEP files for a printable coupler and a guide that can be used instead of the threaded coupler mount are included.

The mounting bracket I've included was made for the the top 2020 extrusion of an Ender 3. It's just an example.

---
The switch I used came out of a computer mouse. It should be fairly simple to make a housing to fit other types of switches.

The coupler used is the kind that goes in the hotend. This size will let the TPFE tubing pass through. If you don't have one you can print the included coupler STLs. Alternatively, there is a simple guide that doesn't use a piece of tubing.

Everything can be printed without supports.

---
![image 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/filament-runout-sensor-mech/main/Images/image1.jpg)
![image 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/filament-runout-sensor-mech/main/Images/image2.jpg)
![image 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/filament-runout-sensor-mech/main/Images/image3.jpg)


Filament Runout Sensor Mech

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4690953.

# 3D Printable Pro Micro Based Push Button

This is a single pushbutton. You could use it as a push to talk button, a jump button for games that are playable with 1 button (e.g. I use it for the game Geometry Dash), or whatever. The button can emulate any combination of keyboard key, mouse button, and game controller button inputs.

This design fits my Chinese Pro Micro knockoff perfectly, but may not fit every board as well. A step file of the assembly is included for easy modification.

I print the conical cap pointy end down using a brim for bed adhesion. Supports are not needed for any parts.

I use Cura's dynamic quality at 0.16 layer height. This setting adjusts the layer height based on model detail. If your slicer doesn't offer this functionality, you might want to use a finer print setting for better fitting threads. I've found that my threads fit best using Cura and also work well using PrusaSlicer. ideaMaker didn't make good threads in my tests, but YMMV. I didn't test any other slicers.

Non-printable parts needed:

* [Pro Micro Arduino microcontroller](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Arduino_Pro_Micro).
* A bit of wire.
* 1 micro switch

I use the kind of micro switch found in a computer mouse. A mounting adapter for this kind of switch is included. A momentary pushbutton could be used as well by making an adapter with, for example, a round 16 mm hole. Import the included step file into your CAD software to make your own button/switch adapter.

STL files are included for a cyclindrical Pro Micro case sans the lower threads for the lower cap. This was left over from the prototype design, but I left it in as someone may find it useful. The upper pieces are compatible if you don't care about the lower cap witch serves as a longer grip and captures the USB cable, but is optional. The lower ring can also be used is place of the lower cap.

![image-01](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Pro-Micro-Push-Button/main/Pro%20Micro%20Button.png)


3D Printable Pro Micro Based Push Button

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5173506.

## Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case with Optional Extrusion Mount

This design is based on my case for the original Pi Zero. This case is slightly thinner than the original and is recessed more on the port access side. The bottom also has the honeycomb design for better cooling all around, The cutout for a heat sink has been resized and shifted for the new SoC (I'm using a heatsink I bought for my RPi 4 on my Zero 2 with this case).The GPIO access slot is a bit larger for easier access and the finger cutout for SD card access was extended to the bottom piece and mount.

Needs 4 M3 screws If using the extrusion mount or foot, you will need16 mm screws.

STEP file included.

Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case with Optional Extrusion Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3353695.

# Ender 3 4010/4020/5015 Fan Mount and Duct

---
### Main Cooling Fan Mount
![plenum image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Creality-4020-5015-Fan-Mount/master/plenum.png)

This part is based on the stock fan cover, but allows the use of a 4020 axial fan on Ender 3 and maybe other Creality printers for heatsink cooling. If using a 4020 fan it must mount on the outside. A 4010 fan should work mounted inside, but I haven't tried it. You can use the stock part cooler or the 5015 bracket and duct with this part (see below).

Parts needed:
* The stock heat sink cooling fan or another 4010 or 4020 axial fan. (The Ender 3 fans are 24v.)
* 2-4 M4 x 15-25mm screws depending on your fan size for mounting the fan. (I only use 2.)
* 4 M3 x 8-10MM screws.
* The original 2 M3 fan cover mounting screws or 2 more M3 x 6mm. If using a socket cap screw for the top bracket slot, a small washer may be needed.
* The original 4 part cooling fan screws or 4 M2 socket cap screws. I believe the stock screws are 2 8mm at the top and 2 10mm at the bottom (where the duct mounts).

Parts to print:

<ul>
<li>plenum_v2.stl</li>
<li>bracket_left_v2.stl</li>
<li>bracket_top_v2.stl or bracket_top_no_slot_v2.stl</li>
</ul>
  I designed this in multiple parts to avoid the need for supports. Print with the fan intake hole down. Be sure to print the left bracket with a flat side down. The non-slotted top bracket can be substitutted for the slotted version. The slotted version provides a bit of adjustment if the fan mount tilt.

Assembly:
1. Mount the top bracket to the fan housing using 2 M3 screws.
2. Mount the left bracket to the fan housing using the 2 stock M3 cover mounting screws or your own M3 screws.
3. If the screw holes are tight you may get bulges around them where the housing mounts to the metal bracket. If so, trim them and any other bumps using a razor of a file, so that the housing will mount flush with the metal plate.
4. Do the following 2 steps in whatever order works best for you. I Installed an inline connector for my 4020 fan, so I install it first and then plug it in as the last step.
5. Mount the fan to the fan housing. Make sure it is oriented so that it blows inward.
6. Mount the stock part cooling fan (don't forget its 90° duct) or the 5015 fan duct to the right side of the fan housing.
7. Mount the fan housing using M3 screws.

---

### 5015 Bracket and Duct
![duct image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Creality-4020-5015-Fan-Mount/master/duct.png)
This part should also work with the stock metal fan cover. 

Parts needed:
* A 5015 centrifugal fan. (The Ender 3 fans are 24v.)
* 3 M2 screws (I used the screws for the stock part cooling fan for this).
* 1 M3 x 6-8mm screw if using the optional bracket.

Parts to print:
<ul>
<li>5015_duct_v2.stl or 5015_duct_v3.stl</li>
<li>5015_lower_duct_v3.stl or 5015_lower_duct_v3_mod.stl if using duct v3</li>
<li>duct_bracket_v2.stl</li>
</ul>

  5015_lower_duct_v3_mod.stl hangs lower and also angles the air a bit lower. 
  
  No supports are needed for the main part. The optional small bracket should be printed with supports and oriented with the slot facing upwards.

Assembly:
1. If you are using the printed main cooling fan mount, assemble it first as per above, but do not mount it to the printer.
2. Mount the duct to the right side of the main cooling fan box using 3 M2 screws.
3. Mount the entire assembly to the printer.

---
### Optional Items
![duct image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Creality-4020-5015-Fan-Mount/master/optionals.png)

 duct_bracket_v2.stl is an optional bracket that hooks to the hot end mounting plate. It gives the entire assembly a bit more stiffness. It won't work with the stock metal fan housing and would probably offer little to no benefit anyway.

 40_intake.stl and 50_intake.stl are optional intake ducts. They may reduce the amount of random plastic scrap getting sucked into the fans.

---
### Version 3 Duct

![duct version 3 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Creality-4020-5015-Fan-Mount/master/duct_v3.png)

Version 3 of the 5015 mount and duct uses a separate lower duct that snaps in using a dovetail joint. It may provide better airflow. Step files are included if you'd like to make your own modifications.

---

Creality Ender 3 4010/4020/5015 Fan Mount and Duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906493.

# M10 Coupler

I made this for use in another project. I am uploading it in case anyone might find it useful. There are a couple of others available, but this one includes a STEP format solid model which will make it easy to modify for your own needs.

M10 Coupler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240594.

## Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case

You may need to scale the pins based on your printer and print settings.Works for the original Pi Zero too, but has a larger heat sink cutout for the Zero 2. One version of the pin goes in flush, the other has a small foot. Enjoy.

STEP file included.

Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case Screwless

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3398307.

## Creality Fan Super Air Force System 3000 ZX 7 Platinum Pro Plus Unlimited Edition Mk 3 (UPDATED 2019/2/27)

* Compatible with a 4010/4020/4028 fan for the heat sink and a 5015 blower for part cooling.
* Designed for the Creality Ender 3. Should work on some other Creality Printers.

Changes 2019/02/18:

* Increased adjustment slot length for more upward movement
* Added captive nut slot

This design is more complicated to print than [my other design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3353695), but it has the advantage of giving a really good view of the print nozzle. I think it may cool the heat sink better, due to the better directed air flow, but I haven't tested this.

### Screws Needed

* 3 - M3x6 (2 if not using the turnable nozzle)
* 5 - M3x8-10
* 1 - M4x25
* 1 - M4x20
* 2 - M4x16-?? depending on your fan size
* 1 - M4 nyloc locknut

### Printable Parts / Part Legend

| Name                | File               | Color In Images |
| ------------------- | ------------------ | :-------------: |
| blower bracket      | blower_bracket.stl |       red       |
| blower duct         | blower_duct.stl    |     yellow      |
| duct base           | duct_base.stl      |   light blue    |
| fan duct            | fan_duct.stl       |      white      |
| plate cap           | plate_cap.stl      |      green      |
| turnable nozzle     | nozzle.stl         |     orange      |
| nozzle collar clamp | plate_cap.stl      |      gray       |

There is an STL file (nozzle_support.stl) that can be used as support for the plenum area of the turnable blower nozzle. In Cura you would place this on the plate aligned with the nozzle and tell Cura to print it as support. Then you can block all support at the roof inside the nozzle or just tell Cura to only put support that is touching the build plate, which will give you a bit of support inside the nozzle, but it will be easily removable.

### Notes

The fit of the blower bracket in the slot on the plate cap part should be tight. This tight fit is by design, but depending on your printer, it may be too tight to allow the bracket to slide easily in the slot. If the fit is too tight, try working the bracket back and forth in the slot until it loosens up. Sandpaper or a small file may help.

The screw below the cable tie slot is a bit of a pain to get to. I use a magnet to hold it in place until I get it started. I don't reccomend omitting it. The plate cap part should contact the duct base at this screw hole. If there is a gap between them then your plate cap may not be fully seated.

_**Check the blower duct clearance before printing for the first time after installing.**_ Ensure that the plate cap part is fully seated, then loosen the locknut on the back of the blower bracket to allow adjustment by sliding the blower bracket up or down in the slot. Raise or lower the bracket as needed. Lower the nozzle to the bed and check that there is enough clearance between the bed and the duct.

![assembly view](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/view_main.png)
![nozzle view](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/view_nozzle.png)
![printables image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/printables.png)
![view 0 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/view_0.png)
![view 1 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/view_1.png)
![view 2 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Ender-3-fan-system-V6/master/view_2.png)


Creality Fan Super Air Force System 3000 ZX 7 Platinum Pro Plus Unlimited Edition Mk 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4193477.

# RS Cooler Remix for Ender 3

[Github](https://github.com/opcow/RS_Cooler_Remix)

Find the original [here.](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170231)

----

This is a remix of the Red Squirrel Compact Fan Housing for Creality Ender 3 3D Printer by [Red Squirrel Hobbies](https://www.thingiverse.com/RedSquirrelHobbies/about). The Red Squirrel is my favorite cooling solution for the Ender 3.

### Changes From the Original

This remix splits the ducts into separate parts. The only issue I have with the original is that access to the nozzle is difficult. If you use a silicone sock it can be hard to remove/install and holding the heater block without a special tool of some sort will probably require removal of the cooler in order to change the nozzle. With this split design, you only need to remove the tool fan to remove the part cooling duct and gain access to the nozzle and heater block.

I modified the fan mounting holes to accept M4 screws and increased the thickness of the 5015 mount point. STL files with holes sized for M3 screws (*_m3.stl) are also supplied.

part_duct.stl can be printed with minimal supports. If you set the overhang angle to 45 degrees and print it with the fan mount face down then you would only get supports under the 5015 fan opening.

Print part_duct_alt.stl either with the fan mount face down or up. You save ~3mm off the distance the fan will stick out at the expense of more supports and cleanup required using this optional part cooling duct.

A generic base lock is included. This should be compatible with other Hero Me mounts.

Step files are included if you need to modify anything.

---

Exploded View
![view 1](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/RS_Cooler_Remix/master/view_1.png)

Normal View
![view 2](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/RS_Cooler_Remix/master/view_2.png)

With Alternative Part Duct
![view 3](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/RS_Cooler_Remix/master/view_3.png)

View of Vents
![view 4](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/RS_Cooler_Remix/master/view_4.png)


RS Cooler Remix for Ender 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4162205.

# IRF520 Module Case

A 3D Printable case for an IRF520 Module

[Github](https://github.com/opcow/IRF520-MODULE-Case)

The IRF520 module can be used to control a fan, LEDs, etc. I use it with my Ender 3 Pro to control the extruder fan via an unused pin on my SKR E3 DIP controller.

Thanks to Eduardo Melo for the [IRF520 Module model](https://grabcad.com/library/irf520-module-1) I used when designing this.

![view with cover](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/IRF520-MODULE-Case/master/view1.png)
![view of base](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/IRF520-MODULE-Case/master/view2.png)

IRF520 Module Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3408587.

## Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero W Case with Optional Extrusion Mount

Update (2019/03/17) adds a cutout for easier SD card access.

Needs 4 M3x16 screws if using the extrusion mount, 4 M3x6-12 if not using the mount.

[GitHub](https://github.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case)

![view 1 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/view_0.png)
![view 2 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/view_1.png)
![top 1 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/top_0.png)
![top 2 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/top_1.png)
![top 3 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/top_2.png)
![top 4 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/top_3.png)
![view 2 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/view_3.png)
![view 3 image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/Honeycomb-Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-Case/master/view_2.png)


Honeycomb Raspberry Pi Zero W Case with Optional Extrusion Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3536346.

### Jackery Mini 3350mAh Portable Charger Mount

Updated 2019/04/03
 * Added battery_mount_opt.stl
 * Added chamfers for easier installation of the battery

STEP files available on [GitHub](https://github.com/opcow/battery_mount_3350).

I use it on my top tube bento box mount braze-ons. Should work on bottle cage mounts too.

Print 2 battery_mount.stl or 1 battery_mount.stl and 1 battery_mount_opt.stl. The button will be covered if you use battery_mount.stl on the end whith the button, though I am still able to activate the button by pressing on the mount's band where the button is. Use battery_mount_opt.stl if you want clear access to the button.

Bike Battery Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906499.

# Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide Remix

Based on Holspeed's excellent [Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488). It's the same as the original other than some very minor modifications. You don't need this remix if you just want to print one and use it as is. I'm putting this here because I made a STEP format solid body model for use in one of my projects. I thought someone might find the STEP version useful.

Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3507331.

# Coupler Wing Nut

Credit [/u/pbbft](https://www.thingiverse.com/pbbft) @ reddit for the idea.

Allows loosening/tightening of the coupler at the extruder without a wrench for those times when your filament refuses to go through no matter how you hold your tongue.

Due to variation in printers, it's possible you could need to scale it slightly. The fit should be pretty tight. One side of the hex slot is flared for easier installation (install it from the threaded end). Use a screwdriver, your scraper, or anything that fits the side slot to pry it open a bit as you install it onto the coupler.

[GitHub](https://github.com/opcow/coupler_wing_nut)

![model image](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/opcow/coupler_wing_nut/master/wing_nut.png)

Coupler Wing Nutter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240561.

# Diamond Puzzle
----
I saw this puzzle on YouTube and decided to try recreating it in Fusion 360. I think it came out well.  Unfortunately, I would rate the difficulty of this puzzle at about 1 on a scale of 5. If you have 30 minutes and 8 seconds to kill, you can print this puzzle in about 30 minutes and then solve it in the remaining 8 seconds. Enjoy.

### Notes
----
I find the puzzle works best if the fit is a bit tight the first time you fit it together. I tried to size the elements optimally, but FDM printing being what it is, your results may vary.

Print two copies of `single.stl` or one of `pair.stl`. The parts are the same.

Diamond Puzzle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3342107.

#4020 Axial Fan Cover
----

This part is based on the stock fan cover, but allows the use of a 4020 axial fan on Ender 3 and maybe other Creality printers. My original fan died after a couple of weeks. I'm now using a Sunon MagLev 40x40x20 fan which moves plenty of air and runs smooth and quietly, but wouldn't fit using the original fan cover.

I designed this in multiple parts to avoid the need for supports. Print with the fan intake hole down. Be sure to print the left bracket with a flat side down.

I left the intake hole open. You could mount a wire fan guard either by using longer M4 screws then mount the guard on the protruding ends of the M4 screws using locknuts, or by using 2 shorter M4 going into the unused fan mounting holes from the outside.

Parts needed:
* 2-4 M4 x 25mm screws for mounting the 4020 fan. (I only use 2.)
* 4 M3 x 8-10MM screws.
* The original 2 M3 fan cover mounting screws or 2 more M3 x 6mm.
* The original 4 part cooling fan screws or 4 M2 socket cap screws. I believe the stock screws are 2 8mm at the top and 2 10mm at the bottom (where the duct mounts).

Assembly:
1. Mount the top bracket to the fan housing using 2 M3 screws.
1. Mount the left bracket to the fan housing using the 2 stock M3 cover mounting screws or your own M3 screws.
1. If the screw holes are tight you may get bulges around them where the housing mounts to the metal bracket. If so, trim them and any other bumps using a razor of a file, so that the housing will mount flush with the bracket.
1. Do the following 2 steps in whatever order works best for you. I Installed an inline connector for my 4020 fan, so I install it first and then plug it in as the last step.
1. Mount the 4020 fan into the fan housing. Make sure it is oriented so that it blows inward.
1. Mount the stock part cooling fan (don't forget its 90° duct) to the right side of the fan housing. You could also do this after mounting the housing to the printer, but my wires are long enough that I can do this with the fan housing laying on the bed.
1. Mount the fan housing using M3 screws.

Ender 3 4020 Fan Housing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3307326.

Clips onto the bottom of the X stepper bracket. May be useful if you use a thick glass build plate and can't lower the bed enough to accommodate it.

I added low poly STL files because they actually come out looking better on my printer, and they're smaller files.

Ender 3 Z Spacer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4104527.

# Ender 3 V-Slot Cover

This was sized for the top of the left 40x40 extrusion which collects a lot of plastic and other junk in the top slots. A step file is included if you need different sizes for other slots.

[Github](https://github.com/opcow/ender-3-v-slot-insert)

Ender 3 V-slot Insert

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4181015.

# Microphone Bolt

Fits the threads on a microphone. I use it with [Blue Yeti cable protection](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806301) by [MrCrankyface](https://www.thingiverse.com/MrCrankyface/about) which was a bit loose for me, so this holds it in place.


Microphone Bolt

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3283214.

# **P!**
---
Logo of the Japanese rock group "**The Pillows**." Appears on Haru Haruko's Vespa in the anime **FLCL**.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422045.

## Extrusion Mount for CableCreation USB OTG Adapter

Mount for [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYYAOIE) adapter.

Slide it on from the flat micro USB cable side which is slightly smaller.

Extrusion Mount for CableCreation USB OTG Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3410681.

# MakerSpot USB Hub Clip

Slides onto the back of the MakerSpot 4-Port micro USB OTG hub and then can be clipped into and extrusion slot. I use it with my Raspberry Pi Zero W which runs OctoPrint and is also  clipped onto the printer.

Don't try to press it straight on from the back. Slide it onto the back from one end.

MakerSpot USB Hub Clip

Headphone hook for the Corsair 4000D, 5000D, and 7000D (possibly others models) PC cases.

Headphone Hook for Corsair x000D Series PC Case

one-piece-hook.stl

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