Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4673093.

Remix of Sanlaki's excellent Magnetic VR Rifle stock.  I wanted a more compact version I could assemble using the parts from the Sanlaki stock for Population: One.  The full stock is great for Onward and Pavlov, where you rarely put your weapon down.  

Here's the original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4538594
(for some reason, I can't link it in the Remix section)

Population: One on the other hand requires you do climb using both hands and stick your arms out to fly.  Having the relatively large rifle stock can be a bit cumbersome.  I would typically disengage the controllers, and let the stock hang from its sling, then try to re-attach when I need it.  This takes precious time.  So I designed a compact version you can still climb and "fly" with, without too much of an issue.

This will require the same magnet and screws as the main rifle stock.  I recommend making that complete kit, and printing "Mini Rifle Stock" to supplement it.  The other 2 files, are from the Sanliki set, but with the left adapter separated from the "Right Dominant" set.  You won't need to print those, if you do the rest of the original set.

I believe Sanliki made a compact design too, but it uses longer pipes than the 6" ones from the original.  I didn't want to order new pipes, so I just used the extra 6" set from the original set.

If you're left dominant, then mirror the files.

As with the original Sanliki set, you'll need screws, magnets and these 6" iron pipes (these are skinnier than the ones from Lowes or Home Depot, which won't fit).

Edit:  I made a v2 of the adapter, where you're less likely to bump your headset into the thing when using ironsights or a scope.


Mini VR Gunstock for Oculus Quest 2 based on Sanlaki design

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560490.

This is a remix to make the PVC pipe edition fit with a standard 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe.  The original was based on an assumed 1" outer diameter, which is a bit narrower than an actual 3/4" pipe.  I changed the two piece design into clamshells, so you only need one screw/nut per clamp.  I recreated the magnet slots to use 3mm x 18mm Neodymium magnets.  Lastly, I changed the hex nut size to accommodate 1/2" 6-32 screws and nuts, instead of the harder to find (in the US) metric screws.  (Edit: better go with 3/4" 6-32 as the 1/2" might be too short)

You should be able to buy all the hardware from Home Depot.  Everbilt Machine Screws #6-32 1/2 inch, #6-32 hex nuts, 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe, Magnet Source 18mm disc neodymium magnets.  So this is basically the 'Murican version (no metric hardware).

No change to the shoulder stock section, but I'm including it anyway, so you don't have to hunt for it.  Clearly it could use some cleanup, as I'm new at this and modified it in TinkerCAD.  Works well enough for me, so I thought I'd upload it.

You'll need to print the Touch cradles, and slide a magnet into the slot from inside the cradle (friction fit, no glue needed).  Print the shoulder stock and stock holder.  Print at least 2 pipe clamps.  I'd consider printing an extra clamp, so you can have a 3rd spot on your pipe.  Handy for that P90 grip.  

Glue the magnets into the bigger disc spaces in clamps, making sure to line up the polarity.  These are fairly strong magnets, so use decent glue.  I'm using E6000, and hoping it holds.

My post print photos are using overly long 1" screws that I had on hand.  Also, two of the clamps are the older 2 piece design, closer to the original version (but for 6-32 screws).

Note:  Someone had this printed and found the 1/2" screws too short.  Might be best to go with 3/4" bolts.  Sorry about that.

Oculus Rift Rifle / Gun Stock Remix for 3/4" PVC & 6-32 screws

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606044.

As I'm performing as a zombie in Little Tokyo for the 2018 Thrill the World event, I wanted to go with an Anime theme.  Hence, zombie Pikachu coming out of my head.

The Pikachu doll (fair use!) was from Amazon, as was the hat.  I 3D printed the Pikachu skull (based on bfince's cat skull), and inserted it into the head, Terminator style.  I also designed a "skull cap" with a hole and brains coming out.

Small plush Pikachu: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGKKXC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ash hat: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A4XBTX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also used Great Stuff spray foam (windows and doors) to fill in some "brains."

For the STL files, I'm including the modified cat skull, 4 versions of the skull cap.  One with no brains in case someone wants to use it.  One low poly count brain version, one with a higher poly count (It may be 5mm shorter than the previous ones, after test fitting for my own head).   The 4th one has the doll support I glued on pre-merged with the skull cap.

I'm holding a Pokeball designed by Intentional3D: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:411193  The little Squirtle inside is a friend's crochet creation.

#CostumeChallenge2017

Zombie Pikachu coming out of my head

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249810.

This is a re-mix of the Montana Mask designed to stretch out N95 breathing masks for health-care workers.  Please make these and provide them the healthcare workers who need them.  It allows a standard surgical mask to be cut into 6 pieces and inserted into the re-usable / washable 3D printed mask.

The original Montana Mask is suppose to be printed with rigid plastic, like PLA or ABS.  I got it to print in TPU, but made this version to save on the flexible filament and increase print speed by going half with PLA.  In order to reduce the chances of mis-loading the flexible filament, I did a straight across transition instead of a curved one.  That brings it down to exactly 1 filament change.

Added new Zig Zag version.  This will be harder to print, as it requires several layers of transition, but should make the flexible and rigid parts adhere better, as I found they can separate when squished.  I have separate parts for the borders, which should be done with 100% infill.

https://www.makethemasks.com/

Montana Mask for N95 filter squares Half Flex

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238043.

This is a license plate holder based on the aesthetics of Macross / Robotech.  Specifically using the same tail number as the Valkyrie / Veritech flown by Milia Fallnya / Miriya Sterling.  As such, I recommend printing it in red.  It's designed for US (specifically California) plates, which measured to 308mm x 154mm

If you want to go with Max's, switch all the Red parts to blue.  If you want to go with Hikaru/Rick VF-1J, replace the Right / Left Red with white, the Right / Left White to red (but that messes up the circle things) and the Center White to red and Center Red to white.  Skull Leader, would be like the Hikaru, but change the Center White to black and Center Red to yellow.

I originally designed this thicker, and to use 6mm m3 screws to hold it together, but it was too thick for my car, so I brought it down to 6mm thickness.  This means the m3 screw holes can't really be used, except to hold the pieces together while superglue sets.

I also included optional Bottom Spikes to line up with the holes on the bottom of the license plate, which helps set it with my car, which has the corresponding holes in the bumper.

The files are uploaded face down, and should be printed that way.  Drag in all the Right parts together to keep registration for MMU printing (at least in Prusa Slicer).  Do the same for all the Left parts, and all the Center parts.  Throw in the tabs you'll use in there too. You'll have to print them in two separate files.

Multimaterial Macross / Robotech License Plate Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2801461.

I went a little crazy at the Macross Convention in Torrance.  Got a bunch of Revoltech Macross action figures, and have wanted to display them a bit better than posed on my shelf.

So I designed a diorama backdrop properly scaled for these Robotech/Macross toys.  Revoltech lists the scale as 1:100, but measurements put it closer to 1:120.

The buildings are solid/manifold recreations of buildings I found on Sketchup by NRO (restaurant) and by Iulian Mitran (apartment building).

The 3 street parts go together, with holes for the lamp posts, and raised areas to act as guides for the 2 buildings.  I'm including an undamaged version of the apartment, but unless you have a bigger build volume than me, you might have to cut it in 2, like I did for the damaged version.

Most important thing when printing these is, to handle the overhangs (all the internal ceilings) for the apartment, you need to print it at a 45° tilt.  In Cura, I set Supports for only parts touching build plate.

Here's the build album: https://imgur.com/a/lNdVj

Miniature Buildings for Giant Robot Diorama

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020290.

This container goes into the center console of the Tesla Model 3, behind the mobile phone storage and in front of the cup holders.  I typically have a bunch of disorganized frequent customer/club cards, punch cards, EV charging cards, metro cards in various business card or card cases in my car.  This combines Petland Design's Slim Wallet with jonco223's Tesla Model 3 Center Console Bin.

I recommend printing at least the bin in ABS or some heat resistant material.  The Tesla Model 3 does have cabin overheat protection, keeping the temp at 104°F or lower, but as that zaps a lot of juice, I'll probably turn it off or turn it to fan only, so expect it to get hot enough to deform PLA.  I printed the wallets in PLA, as the mechanisms are more sensitive to shrinkage.  Hopefully, they'll be fine in the console.

Wallet Case Slim is a default wallet case, while the other Wallet Case files have text written on the side for my own use.  Use a small piece of 1.75mm filament for the hinge pin.  A dab of superglue on the end will keep it in place.

Tesla Model 3 Center Console Tray & Card Wallets

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591310.

After accidentally breaking my 20 year old Millennium Falcon model in a blind VR frenzy, repairing it, I took the opportunity to replace the half-ass engine replacement I originally put in.

The original 1970s AMT/ERTL Millennium Falcon model had a lit engine, so it came with a clear plastic cover for the area.  Later manufacturing of the model got rid of the engine light, keeping the clear plastic.  So you wouldn't see into the inside of the Falcon (what a piece of junk!), you were suppose cut out a crappy grid from the instructions to you would paste over the clear plastic.  I didn't like that, so instead I fashioned some hose clamps into a reasonable facsimile of what the engines might look like.  At this point, we'd only seen the engine section when lit, and could see what looked like slats of some sort.

This new 3D print goes with the slats idea, but with sort of vanes, like you'd have on your car vents.  Think thrust vectoring.  This was based on John Martin's scratch built designs on starshipmodeler.com

New movies have shown it should be a double slat, but I prefer the look of this single row.  Also, I was worried about visible ghosting with the supports.

Partly to reconcile the double decker look, and to provide some "internals" I created some greebles to go inside.  Sort of a double decker set of exhaust nozzles.  Without these, you can clearly see the inside of the plastic model, through the slats.  There are cut-outs for the landing gear boxes.

John Martin's Millennium Falcon build: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/starwars/jm_mf.htm

Note:  This is the model kit I used over 20 years ago: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Return-Millenium-Falcon/dp/B001AVM1L4/ref=pd_sbs_21_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KTKY8MPXN4T83JG9TCXJ

Millennium Falcon ERTL/AMT/MPC Engine Replacement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795518.

I'm very impressed with Glitch's Stargate Mk2.  It's been the most complicated thing I've made so far.  Based on the parts I could get on Amazon here in the US (quickly, as I had a deadline), I had to come up with a couple of mods.

I couldn't get the specified LEDs for the chevrons on time, so I got Chanzon SMDs with dimensions of 5.7 x 3.0 mm.  As these were tiny, and hard to solder, I designed this little mounting bracket LED holder.  It has 2 functions, hold the LEDs for soldering, and it'll fit nicely into the wiring slot of the Stargate.

I recommend gluing the LEDs in place (watch your orientation / polarity).  While they nicely snap into the slots, a hot soldering iron will soften the plastic, causing them to fall out.  I've been using E6000 High Viscosity Adhesive, as it has a longerish set time, letting me fix screw-ups.  I clamped them on a vice "upside down" and soldered left over bits of resistor leads cut to size between, and added "leads" to later solder the main wires.

I recommend placing the gate_4_b_x6 on top of the wiring slot part (gate_3_b_x6, gate_3_a_x1, gate_3_e_x1, gate_3_d_x1), and mark the holes with a Sharpie.  This will let you glue the assembly in the correct place.  I also blackened the back of those pieces with said Sharpie to reduce light leak. 

Once you've soldered them, test them (don't forget to use a resistor, so you don't blow the LEDs), then glue them into those marked places.  The design lets you snake some thin wires through from the "upstream" LEDs.  I used 26g wire.  You can get one strand above, one below, 2 in the center, 2 the top LED (tight fit), and 2 under the bottom LEDs (tight fit).  See the photo.  To accommodate the wires, all the right chevron LEDs went on the right side (both positive and negative wires), and all the left chevron LEDs went on the left (duh), but the top chevron had the 2 wires split with one down the left side and one down the right side.  This is important, otherwise one of the bottom chevron LEDs will be super tight.

I found the Light Dependent Resistor that came with my Arduino kit was 5.2 x 4.3mm, which didn't fit into the LDR holder (ldr_x1), so I also modified ldr_x1 to so it would fit.

Having less joints may help with a smoother rail, so I've tried joining the parts together which should fit my new mk3 set at a diagonal.  This is theoretical, as I haven't actually printed this one yet, but may as my symbol ring keeps getting stuck right now.

Maybe I used the wrong glue, or my track wasn't smooth enough, but the joints between the symbols didn't hold.  They'll still spin, but the resulting crack between was fooling the LDR calibration.  So I printed up some symbol_clips_x5 to help secure the symbol connections.  That did the the trick.

I found after lubricating the ring a bit too much, some silicone lubricant got on the stepper motor axle, and since my gears didn't print the flat part too well, they lost traction and would just spin, without rotating the gear_symbol_x1.  So I made a version with a set screw hole for an M3 screw.  I also made one for gear_chevron_x1.

I'm also including Glitch's circuit diagram, which you can find on his website: http://www.glitch.org.uk/category/stargate/  Note: the diagram pins correspond to the original (commented out) Chevrons array.  Though I think pin 9 is swapped with pin 11 based on the Arduino Sketch in the final uncommented version. 

LEDs: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUGACEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arduino Kit (CD came cracked, so had trouble figuring out what was what): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DVCW4B/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glue: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044SB3M8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glue Tips: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0141MQQCI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: Feb 20, 2018 - I added a jig or template to hold the gate parts together so they line up properly when gluing.

Mod Parts for Glitch's Stargate Mk2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3825507.

A remix of Iloo's original with beveled edges so I don't scrape my delicate skin so much.

Tesla Model 3 - Trunk Grocery Bag Hook Beveled Edges

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5176048.

The Model 3 and Model Y no longer come with the rear cubby container under the arm rest.

I included some internal slots for a Samsung T5 SSD, coins, and card holders. 

Card wallets can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020290

The 1 piece version will need to be printed with supports.  Alternatively, you can print the bottom and top version (top is inverted) without supports, and glue them together.  I haven't tested the fit myself, though.  I also have the internal bits as a separate STL which you can import along with the regular cubby if you want to do multi-material, or do fuzzy edges on just the main cubby.

Tesla Model 3/Y rear cubby

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5193746.

I bought a contour gauge from Amazon, but seemed to have misplaced it.  So I designed a somewhat lower resolution (2mm wide pins) for a project I'm working on, and thought I'd share the contour gauge here.

The gauge covers 192mm, with 2mm wide pins.  You need to print two copies of the case, and 96 pins.  The pins are 4mm tall, and go in "standing."  In order to make it more rigid, and hopefully have the pins less loose in the center, I have an outer case you glue in over the whole thing, taking advantage of lamination to make it less bendy.

I realized the pins can easily fall out, so I designed a second version of the pins with notches so they don't fall out.

To use it, push all the pins against a curve, then measure how fare they stick out with a ruler.

Contour Gauge

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337399.

I bought a couple of 80s vintage Robotech Zentradi action figures made by Matchbox.  They're 10cm tall, which puts them right at about 1:100 scale, so I can mix them with various 1:100 scale Macross toys.

The loose figures I got did not come with their weapons, and looking at the boxed versions, didn't come with anything close to matching what they carried in the cartoon.  Note, these are the "micronized" Zentradi (regular sized would be too big and out of scale).  This doesn't explain why they're wearing full size Zentradi armor, but whatever.

Note:  The height discrepancy between the Valkryie and Zentradi soldier isn't a mistake.  According to official sources, common Zentradi infantry were about 10 meters tall, compared to 12.7 meters for the Valkyrie in Battroid mode.  Britai was a Command Type, and much taller.  The animation from the TV show played a bit fast and loose with the scale, but the movie version does a better job.

Zentradi Rifle for Matchbox 3 3/4" action figures

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670980.

This is a remix of jfeist's Pixel2 case with bumps on the side to make it easier to hold, and a space for the metal plate for my magnetic car mount, and a stand to slip the charge cord in.

I also included the first version of the stand using my old charger cord from my Nexus 6P, end is 6.5mm x 12.2mm x 20.25mm (one for home, one for work).

Magnetic Car Mount: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142EWBUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 



Google Pixel 2 Case and Charging Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4266555.

I've been making Montana Masks (www.makethemasks.com) for local hospitals and ran out of elastic.  So I came up with this.  You need to use TPU or some other similar flexible material.  I'm using SainSmart TPU, which seems to work fairly well on my Prusa.  Clips should be in something rigid, like PLA.

You'll need 2 clips and 4 straps for each mask, with one strap going through each loop hole on the mask, then run two opposite straps through the clip (into the middle slot, loop over and out of the outer slot).  This lets you tighten the straps by pulling on the loose ends.  To remove, pull the clip away from your head to loosen the straps.

Edit:  Mask Straps Shorter is a shorter version which can fit 4 sets per bed with a Prusa i3. printer (210x250mm print bed).  I also increased the size of the hole blocker so it'll fit with the SLO Respirator remix @ https://www.slorespirator.org/



Straps for Montana Mask Respirator

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4202316.

When trying to find a tire depth gauge to print, I found most were in millimeters.  I needed something in 32nd of an inch, as I'm in the US.  I've got 3 tabs, 5/32nd, 3/32nd, and 2/32nd.  Just stick in in the tire tread to check the depth.

I originally made this for MM printing, but uploaded a single color version.

Tire Tread Depth Gauge in inches / Freedom units

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2673597.

I designed this to fit my 20 year old Aztek airbrush.  I'm not sure what else it may fit.

Designed this to fit over a Glad "Tupperware type container."  I'm including the version I printed, along with a version with removable vent so you can stick in some filter paper (try coffee paper or paper towel).

Fill the container partway with water to keep it upright and absorb the spray.  The container I used is 177mm in diameter.  Easy enough to subtract a different rim diameter from the model if you want it to fit something of a different size.

I designed two versions of the vent cap, one with some friction notches.  I'd guess that won't fit too well over filter paper, so the smooth one will likely be better with a filter.  You may even need to print it a bit smaller if it's too tight.

Airbrush Stand and Cleaning Station

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3073554.

This is a 3 part display mount for a Toynami 1:100 transformable Super Valkyrie / Veritech to hang under the center monitor / tablet of a Tesla Model 3.  Using this will effectively block the smart phone door from either opening or closing.  It doesn't bother me, as I never close it.  It will still allow the center bin door forward of the cup holders to open and close unimpeded.

The clip at the bottom slides into the slot in the back of the Valkyrie where the wings usually fold into in Battroid mode.  This mount will hold either a Super Valkyrie in Fighter or GERWALK mode, but only GERWALK for a stock Valkyrie (no FAST packs), as it requires the "backpack" holding the vertical stabilizers / rudders to be folded. 

Unless you happen to have a Toynami 1:100 transformable Veritech, this will probably be more useful as a remix to mount something else.

I'm not sure how well it will handle sharp turns, so it may be possible I'll make an updated version where the tablet "claw" mount has to go on both sides to keep in in place.  Edit:  Not well.  I added a 4th part that goes on the left side, clipping into the right tablet cage thing.  This should hold it in place.

Here's a link to the specific toy:
https://smile.amazon.com/Toynami-Robotech-Miriya-Veritech-Collectible/dp/B0716787MK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535556415&sr=8-4&keywords=Toynami+veritech&dpID=41vYSdmKatL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Toynami 1:100 Super Valkyrie mount for Tesla Model 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4292675.

Rear strap for Prusa designed Face Shields.  Loop the Right Strap to the right side and the Left Strap to the left side knob, and loop each strap into and out of the clip.

Straps should be printed in something flexible, like TPU, and the clip in something rigid, like PLA.

Edit: I shortened the strap by 5mm, so you can fit 10 of them on a Prusa i3 bed.  This is v3.

Prusa Face Shield Strap (Flex)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2648644.

I'd re-purposed my Creative Labs Inspire 5300 5.1 desktop computer speakers for use on my TV, plugged into a receiver.  The original speaker mounts assumed they'd be on your desk, and faced upward.

These stands face downward, as I have my L & R speakers mounted high.  The center one was designed to attach to a standard speaker adapter, but can be used to attach to a wall or entertainment center.  They could also be used the rear speakers.

Here's a link to the speaker set I'm using, so you know it's the correct one: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-5300-Inspire-Computer-Speakers/dp/B00005Z21D

Speaker Stands & Mounts for Creative Labs 5300 Inspire 5.1 Speakers

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4492923.

A bunch of our vinyl fence pickets are missing the trapezoidal top.  I didn't have any luck buying replacements that fit (without have to grind the plastic tabs down).

The internal dimensions on the picket part (hollow area) should be 18mm x 71mm for this to fit.

You'll want to print in something like ABS or PETG so the sun doesn't ruin it.  Print "upside-down."

Picket Fence Caps

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2581386.

I keep loosing the Oculus Remote, which I use whenever starting non-Touch games, like flight sims.  I wanted a place to store it, and figure, modify this great Touch Cradle design by frippan.  Not as slick looking, as I essentially designed a crude facsimile of the Oculus Remote, and subtracted it from the original.  But, hey, it works, so I thought I'd share.

Note, the Rift Headset mount below it isn't part of the print, it's https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1657748

Oculus Touch Cradle with Remote Slot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935584.

I designed this to hold up the Dyson D7 hand held vacuum cleaner with the beater brush connection attached, and mounting spots for 4 other attachments.  This is a 2 part print, which you need to glue together, then mount on a wall.

Since the Dyson is heavy, I printed this in ABS at 70% fill for the bottom part out of an abundance of caution.  The angled peg takes the weight, and I wanted to make sure it was really sturdy.

Dyson D7 Handheld Vacuum Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591248.

Slips over a common house key so you can tell by look and feel which one it is.  This is how I differential the knob from dead bolt key.

House key cover / label thingy

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2588204.

Printing iClint's Airbrush Turntable, I realized the 8x16x5 ball bearings I had on hand were too small.  So I made an adapter for the ones I had on hand.


URL's
Table: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662153
8x22x7mm Ball Bearing I should have used: http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/part-numbers/Metric-Series-Bearings/608ZZ/4521
8x16x5mm Ball Bearing I had on hand: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OEJZBUW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8x16x5 to 8x22x7 ball bearing adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2673618.

The tube holding up one of my solar powered garden lights broke.  So I thought I'd print up a replacement.  After that melted in the hot sun, I thought I'd print up a replacement with a space to insert a 1/4" wood dowel to add some structural support.  After the ends melted, I finally bought some ABS and tried a print.  Hopefully this one will last.

Solar Garden Light Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375694.

I made this to hang a 1 gallon RoundUp spray bottle and its wand.  I'm not sure if it'll fit the current bottles.  Alternatively, the Smith 190285 1-Gallon Bleach and Chemical Sprayer on Amazon looks to be the exact same bottle I'm using.

1 Gal Spray Bottle (Round-Up) holder / hook

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2605376.

This attaches to a Neiko Digital Caliper (0-150mm), extending the reach about 145mm.  I just use tape to secure it in.

Print out a mirrored version to get the bottom caliper jaw.

What would you want this?  Dunno, I needed it to measure how thick my head is for a costume.

Edit:  Added a holder to glue on the Neiko Box, giving the extenders a place to slide in.  It should be glued to the "V" groove on the box.  It'll sort of snap into the groove, as it's kind of a tight fit.

Caliper Extender

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4928820.

Found the original Slim Hat Hook, when printed flat side down wasn't super robust.  So I wanted something I could print "side-ways" to take advantage of the print orientation.  That required filling in the sides a bit to get rid of bridging.

I also found, when used with my own fedora, it had a tendency to slip off, so I added ribs to increase friction.  This one was printed for my wife's fedora, or should I say, "m'lady's" fedora.

I attached it with a command strip and a small wood screw into the back of the closet door.

Fedora Hat Hook

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584753.

After digging out my 20 year old Testor Aztek airbrush to paint Baby Groot, I realized I was missing the little containers for the nozzles.  I bought a replacement fine nozzle, giving me a total of 4.  Due to basic math incompetence, I accidentally made a 5 chamber nozzle box.  Oh well!  Well, if I ever need the pink splatter nozzle nobody ever uses, I've got a spot for it.

Unlike the little plastic cases the nozzles come with, you can't really soak the nozzles in these, as the print will likely be too porous (assuming PLA).  No hinge on this, the cover just slides on, and holds nicely with friction (yay, Z-banding!)

Version 2 reduces the number of chambers to 4, as there are only 4 nozzles available, and strengthens the supports, which in my case broke off.  Hope this version is better.

Note: I just recently realized it's spelled "Aztek" and not "Aztec" - so the box is wrong, and I'm too lazy to fix it.

Aztek Airbrush Nozzle Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5148373.

I accidentally bought a Norelco HQ56 head for my Norelco Series 3000 electric shaver.  This is an adapter to make them work together.

Norelco Series 3000 Razor to HQ56 Blades Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2587268.

This is a case for blunt capped 1 cc syringes.  The image shows an example of what the syringe looks like.  Why the hell would I make this?  Twice a day, I administer a light labile medicine in 100µl doses to a cat.  It comes in a light protective bag, that sits on my sink counter.  I figure this will be less cluttered, while living in the medicine cabinet.

The photo is of the previous design, where I screwed up, resulting in superfluous "battlements."  I originally had a slide on lid, but it was too hard to slide on and off, so I skipped it.

Edit: Version 2 has slates between individual syringes, as mine kept falling over.

1 cc blunt capped syringe rack / case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850627.

This is for the "Pro Iron Assisted Opening Serrated Edge Outdoor Survival Camping Hunting Knife" available on Amazon.  It's a nice emergency knife with a seat-belt cutter, glass breaker with a really easy open action.  I found the metal clip can easily scratch stuff if you keep the pocketknife in your back pocket.  So this is a replacement plastic clip that won't scratch wooden chairs or paint, hopefully.

You'll need a small Torx bit to get the tiny screws out.

Here's the item on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1DMQXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit:  I uploaded a new version which adds a bit more tension to the clip, to help it from slipping.

Replacement clip for Pro Iron Pocketknife

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015845.

My new car doesn't have a keyfob, and it felt weird with my keys spinning around the little ring.  So I made a keychain to fit with the theme.  I named my car "Valkyrie" - so I designed a keychain based on the U.N. Spacy logo from Macross / Robotech.

Added a multi-material version along with a preview of a color print.

U.N. Spacy Keychain (Macross / Robotech)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777139.

A vent cap to top old 4.5" outer diameter vent pipes.  This should help prevent rain from getting into the pipe.  Use construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) should keep it in place, but I also added backup holes if you want to use screws to keep it in place.  These are replacements for the 2 caps I lost in heavy winds.

Note, these 4.5" vent pipes are old, and possibly made with asbestos, so be careful when drilling (wear a respirator).  My vents aren't even functional anymore, as the furnace and water heater they were connected to were moved / replaced.  I just don't want rain getting into the roof crawl space.  If you have an active flue or vent, you should use a non-combustible metal vent cap.  So probably not to code.

Printed with ABS, as it's outdoors.

Roof Pipe Vent Cap for Roof Vent / Inactive Flue

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2556386.

This is a replacement battery cover for the 50L / 13.2 gal. Ninestars Touchless Automatic Trash Can (version that takes 3x C batteries).  Mine fell into the trash and got thrown out, so I made a replacement (for 3D print ever).

I based it on one generated by TheHeadlessSourceMan's Battery Cover Creator, but needed to slice parts off the main body using TinkerCAD, due to the weird geometry of the compartment.

Yes, I now know the brim was unnecessary. This was literally my first print, and I still don't know what the hell I'm doing.

Ninestars Automatic Trash Can Battery Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880276.

The ideal setup for 360° and room scale for the Oculus Rift system is to mimic the HTC Vive setup of sensors on opposite sides of the room, mounted high, aiming downward.  The included Constellation Camera stands do not allow the cameras to angle down far enough for my limited space, so I made these little adapters.

You just need to unscrew the camera from the rest of the stand (yes, they unscrew), and place one of these in between.  I found, when printed with a brim, the fit was a little tight on that side.  I found it fit best "upside-down" compared to the default print orientation. 

Oculus Constellation Camera Angle Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4301873.

Extruder spin indicator designed to look like the sun in the Philippine flag.  I included a longer stem version for better visibility for use on a Prusa MMU2 feed motor.

Philippine Flag Sun Extruder Spin Indicator

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2685895.

Instead of keeping the Left and Right contact lenses in the boxes so they don't get confused during the week, I wanted to put them in a dispenser rack.  This is designed to mount with Command Strips.

This was designed specifically for Acuvue Oasys daily contact lenses.  The curve at the end was designed so they don't slip out, but there's enough friction it's not really needed, and requires a bit more force to slip past than I would have originally liked.  It's not a problem, as the open face allows you to slide the contact lens strip through.  Alternatively, I made (but haven't printed) a version without the curve.

Daily Wear Contacts Dispenser Rack - Acuvue Oasys

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