Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2557372.

This FPV camera protector for the GEPRC LX5/LSX5 Leopard and complementary GoPro mount is a bit of a Frankenstein.  If you do not need the GoPro mount, I recommend the thing by Zytra (linked below), as it is what I used for inspiration and validation of measurements.

Things exist that combine the GoPro mount and FPVcamera protector as 1 thing, but I wanted to be able to use different materials for each part, interchange different angles individually if I wanted, as well as not lose any strength.  I designed this such that the GoPro mount fully attaches to the top standoff and the FPV camera protector sits on top of/outside of the GoPro mount.  It all goes together securely to my satisfaction.  You'll need 1 additional 20mm round standoff for the rear of the GoPro mount.  Additionally, I wanted to be able to swap the GoPro in and out of the mount easily, so I added slots for securing the front of the mount with zip ties.  Otherwise, it is a bear to insert or remove.

I expect the FPV camera protector works best with the [side plates](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2557584) I remixed.

I used several things as inspiration and measurement validation, but all objects were built new.  The key piece that helped me was the Fusion360 source file linked by joem_ in his Session mount thing.  This provided an accurate model of the metal pod for the LX5 to build from.

Credits:
[GEPRC GEP-LX5 Leopard GoPro Session AND Runcam 3 mount (Works with LX4 LX6 LXS) by joem_](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2345767)

[GEPRC LX5 "Leopard" FPV Camera Protector/Mount by Zytra](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2337172)

[GoPro Session Protector / Cover with Strap Slots by Airmaxx23](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2112212)

I've included the Sketchup file should anyone wish to modify this further.

###Settings
Printer: Qidi Tech 1 V2

###FPV Protector Settings
Material: ABS
Supports: Yes - I manually placed supports in Simplify 3D in all the holes
Rafts: No
Resolution: .2mm
Infill: 50%
Perimeters: 4
Bottom Layers: 3
Top Layers: 3
Orientation: Print on its side

###GoPro Camera Protector
Material: Sainsmart TPU
Supports: Yes - I manually placed supports in all holes around the camera. I did not use supports in the standoff holes
Rafts: No
Resolution: .2mm
Infill: 50%
Perimeters: 2
Bottom Layers: 3
Top Layers: 3
Orientation: Print on its back (should load in the correct orientation)

GEPRC LX5 LSX5 Leopard FPV Camera and GoPro Session 5 Protector

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560321.

These are arm protectors for the GEPRC LX5 LSX5 Leopard.  I used [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2416095) by Wthompson87 to validate measurements, adding a lip and a little motor protection.

Print 2 left and 2 right.

I've included the Sketchup file should anyone want to remix.

GEPRC LX5 LSX5 Leopard Arm Protectors

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2557584.

Update 1:
Realized I had a reversed face in the left file.  Updated the STL and the sketchup and renamed files for consistency.


I was having a problem where the stock carbon fiber side plates were coming in contact with my stack, introducing vibrations.  I remixed Zytra's thing to only include the side plates and added angle markers.  This only uses the center hole hole on your camera housing, so I recommend pairing it with either the FPV camera protector thing I made, or [Zytra's](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2337172) to keep everything extra stable.

I've included the sketchup file should anyone want to modify this thing.

Check my other profile for other LX5 things the complement this one.

GEPRC LX5/LSX5 Leopard FPV Camera Mount - Side Plates

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3922290.

I liked a bunch of the wall mount things for storing Rift S bits, but I wanted to mount them under my desk.  This is less a remix and more an accessory.

For the Rift S, print the sensor clear version of the headset wall mount.

The hook plate is only required if you do not want to mount the controller holder, but do want the hook.

The hook is a pretty tight fit, but I had little problem pressing it into place.

I used some old PC fan screws to put the parts together, but any 5mm screw should work. Maximum length ~10mm.  I used wood screws to mount to the desk. 


Rift S Mount - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3678066
Oculus Rift S/Quest Controller Mount - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3703080

Oculus Rift S Under Desk Hanger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2575914.

I'll use this to keep my ISDT BC-8S Battery Checker on me when I know I am going to need it frequently - ie. at the beginning of a session, when I'm charging/discharging a lot of batteries, etc.  Seems like half the time I don't set it down on its designated velcro pad..  This works fine with a key ring, or if you have a retractable ID holder, I made the lanyard hole small enough that the checker won't fall off when the ID holder snap button inevitably fails.  Neck lanyard hooks should work fine as well.

I've included the Sketchup file should anyone want to remix it.

ISDT BC-8S Battery Checker Sleeve

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569302.

## Description
I couldn't find a Logitech shifter mount on Thingiverse that satisfied me, so I made my own in Fusion 360.  Note, I have only tested the right-hand version of this mount, however I expect the left-hand version will work fine.  I just mirrored all of the components.  There are 3 parts required for this print; the inside bracket, outside bracket and the surface to which you mount the shifter.  The surface is designed for the Logitech G27 shifter, and I expect the other similar shifters.  I only have the G27 to test.

*Update 6/26/2019
I've confirmed that this works fine with the Thrustmaster TH8A shifter using the provided clamp.  It's secure enough, and positioned well enough, that I'm not going to bother making and reprinting a hard-mount plate for it.  Much better shifter than the G27/G29/G920 variants by the way.*

There were a few main goals for the utility of the mount:
1. Securely mounted without the fear of it shifting
2. Extends back towards the seated position to reduce the reach required to the shifter and buttons, and to make it feel more natural.  It seems if the shifter is back much further, the velcro straps start to get in the way.
3. Clear the wheel mount tubing latch

The outside mount and surface are in 2 pieces for a couple reasons:
1. Can hopefully be printed on printers with a smaller build volume.  If it were a one-piece assembly, it would not fit on the print bed of my Qidi Tech 1.  In 2 pieces, it fits with plenty of extra space.  I could make the shifter surface a good deal larger.
2. Allow the design of surfaces for other shifters or peripherals such that you do not need to re-print the entire outside part of the mount.  You could probably come up with a way to quick-detach the surface.

## Assembly Instructions
This was designed to be assembled with either M3 screws with 5.5mm nuts, or M4 screws and no nuts.  I did not try this with M4 screws as I have a lot of M3's around used for quadcopters.  

- The brackets mount to the tube with 30mm M3 screws and nuts inserted from outside to inside.  Any longer and the screws will extend beyond the inside bracket, which is fine, but causes an exposed sharp surface.  I also used washers under the screw head, but it's probably not required.  You can use slightly shorter screws if using M4's.  I did not need to use all of the screw holes.  When looking from the outside bracket in, I used the top 2 on the far right, the bottom right, and top left.  If using the bottom left, you'll need to use an M4 screw, or a wood screw of the correct size, no more than 30mm.  With the screws I used, it secures nicely to the tubing with no movement.

- The surface slides onto the outside bracket and mostly locks into place.  The outermost screw holes are countersunk as the shifter sits over top of them.  That is the primary reason for the step-down, so there is enough material for both the surface and bracket.  The inner holes do not side under the shifter, and I wanted to ensure plenty of strength where the surface and bracket meet.  I'm not sure how well this part would hold up with M4 screws attaching the surface to the bracket, but I expect it would be fine.

- The countersunk nuts are a tight fit on purpose.  I just get them started by pressing them into their holes slightly, then use the screws to pull them into place.  This essentially integrates them into the print so they won't fall out when disassembling.

- The surface is not wide enough to use the rear clamps effectively, but you will want to use the front screw clamp.  I tried to reduce the material requirement for the surface by minimizing the size where possible.

## Printing
I printed this with red MatterHackers PLA Pro, with print settings as described in the 'Print Settings' section.  It is plenty strong with minimal flex.  I don't expect it will break easily without a straight up karate chop.  I expect this would also print great in PETG.  If printing in ABS, you may want to increase the size very slightly to ensure you can get the nuts into their recesses and so the brackets fit around the tubing.  All of the files should import into your slicer in the orientations suggested below.


### Inside Bracket
I printed this with the tubing cutout towards the print bed, using supports under the tubing cutout.  This ensures the outside fillet is smooth.


### Outside Bracket
I suggest printing this as it imports into your slicer with the base on the print bed to ensure strength where the bracket attaches to the surface.  I used supports for the horizontal part of the tubing cutout until the angle reaches near 45 degrees.  I also used supports in all of the holes, but it may not be necessary.  Finally, I used supports in the nut countersinks.


### Surface
I printed this with the top of the surface on the print bed. You could print it the other way, but you will need to support the surface-to-bracket cutout and then it may not fit together well.  I only used supports for the countersink for the screws.



## Remix
If you want to remix this, ie. to design a surface for a different shifter, you can download the files that Fusion 360 will export here:
https://a360.co/2v8bojh

### Notes 
1. For some reason, every time I make a change to this design, I need to execute the Combine-Cut functions again for the part<>Screw_Hole_Tools before exporting to STL.  I'm not sure why, but the countersink holes always disappear on me.  
2. It's best if you properly roll back history to the component on which you're working, and only edit the 'Right' components.  This will ensure changes propagate to the 'Left' versions, as well as the 'Print_Bodies' component, of which you use to export the bodies for proper orientation on your print bed.
3. The majority of the model is parametric.  I tried to describe each parameter well, but you may need to jump around to through the sketches and features to find the correct ones to change.



Playseat Challenge Shifter Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2560312.

This is a GEPRC LX5 LSX5 ESC Protector.  They are designed such that the end at the steepest angle sits against the stack plate.  It fits Aikon 30A HV's perfectly, but should fit other similar ESC's as well.  Tested Spedix 30A, which are smaller, and they fit OK as well, but are quite a bit shorter than the Aikons. You can install these protectors without desoldering any wires.

GEPRC LX5 LSX5 Leopard ESC Protector

**Description**
I made this specifically for mounting a Cobb Accessport, but really you could attach anything to this.  

**Install**
Clips in above the left vent trim, and uses VHB tape to secure the bottom to the bottom of the vent.  You should be able to move the mount left or right the width of the vent without too much issue.

VHB tape the ram ball that comes with the Accessport to the mount.  Use the cable stay to keep the cable from flopping around.  

**Material**
ABS is suggested, PETG would probably work, but I would not suggest PLA as it will warp in the heat.  MatterHackers Midnight Blue ABS is what was used for the pictures.  I will reprint in black or graphite gray ABS when more comes in.

**Settings**
Walls: 4
Bottom: 5
Top: 5
Infill: 40%

Left Vent Mount - MK7 / MK7.5 Golf

Left Vent Mount - MK7 Golf R

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