This design provides stable brackets to mount cardboard panels as a cover over your Bambu Lab P1P. These panels help maintain a more stable air temp around your print while also reducing dust collection on the print bed over time.

**Warning**: I found anecdotal evidence that cardboard ignition temp is ~400F or ~205C. This convinced me that the fire hazard from using cardboard in this manner is low. Please consider that cardboard is combustible and that it is your own responsibility to determine whether this mod is safe enough for you.

**Prerequisites**:
1. You must install the otherwise optional P1P  cable chain (I bought an official one directly from Bambu Lab)
1. You must install the pegboard modplates to your P1P (printable design is available for free from Bambu Lab's website)
1. a cardboard box as reclaimed materials; you'll create 3 panels from this with all three being wide enough to reach from the left edge to the right edge of the printer. One panel will need to be about half the dimension of your printer from front to back, and the other two will need to be about half of that. I used the lid to a case of Hammermill copier paper (try asking at any local office building for one of these, it worked out very nicely)

**Printing**:
1. peg-lid.3mf: I've included an OrcaSlicer 3MF project configured for P1P printing using Bambu PLA Basic. In this project you'll find 6 objects spread over 2 plates. Print them all.
1. Otherwise print the following; supports are REQUIRED for the pegboard connectors:
a. two side-plate-2x.step
b. two unmodified corner-plate-2x-by-2x.step 
c. two horizontally mirrored corner-plate-2x-by-2x.step

**Installation**:
1. Meet the prerequisites (acquire or print the pegboard modplate and cable chain; install on your P1P)
1. print the 6 parts for this mod
1. note that removing supports from the pegboard connectors is a pain. sorry. but there are loads of connectors so if you snap a couple off during support removal you can still use your prints
1. I suggest installing the corner brackets first. leave one unoccupied column of pegboard holes at each corner of the modplate
1. install the side panels next; they will fit snugly between the corner brackets
1. note that some downward force is required to slip these into place. i gave mine a tap with a screw driver handle in the end. you WANT them to be as snug as possible else they will rattle during printing
1. with the six printed parts in place, align your salvaged cardboard panels with the brackets and cut to size. When in doubt cut them larger than you think you'll need (you can always cut more off but you can't uncut the panels). For the two smaller panels you'll want a few millimeters of excess cardboard so these panels can overlap the larger panel a bit once installed (they help hold that panel in place)
1. install the large top panel first; you simply drop it in place. There are retention tabs on the top of the side brackets so you may need to flex the side brackets slightly outward to install, depending on how perfectly you cut the panel.
1. install the smaller panels next; these slide into sleeves built into the corner brackets. the top of these panels should remain just above the larger panel, pressing into it to provide a friction fit which helps prevent the panels from moving or falling over time.

**Post-install**:
1. You'll want to confirm that the PTFE and toolhead cable are not encumbered by your new lid. 
1. Home the axes, then use your tool of choice (Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy, LCD Panel) to control the toolhead location
1. Move the toolhead along X/Y axes into each corner of the printer and along the walls between them. Confirm that the PTFE and toolhead cable are not encumbered.
1. Do not use this mod if the PTFE or toolhead cable are encumbered. This is especially important if you did not conform to the prerequisites of using the P1P cablechain. I have not tested with any printed cablechain, but can confirm that mod fits nicely after installing the official cablechain accessory including the longer PTFE and heavy-duty toolhead cable as described by Bambu Lab.

P1P pegboard mod plate cover brackets

corner-plate-2x-by-2x.step

peg-lid.3mf

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318635.

My wife has a pair of noise cancelling headphones from NoiseHush - I can't find a model number on them and as they are a few years old the company seems to have moved on so I can't find an exact match at their website.

These things work great and are comfy, but the over-ear speakers rotate on a weak axel mechanism so you can store them more easily, and this weak axle snapped off one of the speakers. 

This work-in-progress design is a first cut at a repair jig. Unscrew the 4 screws surrounding the axle mechanism, slide this jig in place, and drive some longer screws through the jib and into the original screw holes.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iIL68eLQu4S

NoiseHush headphone repair

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2610722.

Based on original work by [dulfe] and improved variant by [sagdusmir]




EDIT: 
Added photos of the final print, including some next to [sagdusmir]'s variant for comparison. Note that the notch in that variant was intentional; I was lazy when I installed it so cut a notch rather than move the fan wires around the hotend. I wasn't as lazy when installing my final build.




I printed [sagdusmir]'s remix but had some issues:
- there is a planar gap between the screwholes and the duct body. this may be an artifact of slicer settings, but i couldn't get cura 2.x to fill that gap
- when sliced the round exterior of the duct body included some odd thin wall artifacts
- the STL was not oriented for immediate printing (rotation of 151 degrees was required)
- once rotated the bottom of the design was not perfectly flat

I went back to [dulfe]'s original design and noted that all my issues exist there as well (though you only have to rotate the design by 150 degrees to be almost flat).

My updates:
- I imported the original STL into tinkercad, rotated by 150 degrees, and trimmed 0.1mm from the bottom to make it perfectly flat.
- I added (part of) a solid ring, aligned with the body of the duct but thicker so as to fill the planar gap and to clean up the exterior thin was artifacts. I made this ring 3mm tall rather than the ~1.5mm tall pre-existing backplate height.
- I added (part of) a rectangle with rounded corners to the design, 3mm tall, to fill out the backplate around the screwholes.

The final design is very similar to and should be a drop-in replacement for [sagdusmir]'s remix variant. It should print more cleanly and be just a touch stronger as well. Most importantly (for me): the design is ready to print immediately (no rotation/etc required).

XMachines Lorei Fan Duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362018.

Easy-to-print self watering pot

Print the base in VASE MODE (aka Spiralize outer contour in CURA) for easy, rapid, water-tight results. The base design cannot be printed without this setting (or you'll have to modify the design) since it's otherwise just a solid block.

--------------------

I struggled with other self-watering pot designs because they all seem to incorporate complex features in the base, which needs to be water tight. My printer vibrates and wiggles too much to print complex designs in a water tight fashion. Most designs aren't 0.8mm nozzle compatible either, which is frustrating when you prefer large nozzles and the associated faster print times (4x to 8x speed improvement from doubling the nozzle size)

This design fixes those issues. The water-tight portion can be (must be) printed in vase mode, which results in a nice water tight result in a relatively short print time. The whole design is 0.8mm nozzle compatible, so fire away with your large nozzles and enjoy success in printing fast!

My printer is old and struggling these days, but I can still print the base in about 1.5 hours and the insert in about 3.5 hours with my 0.8mm nozzle.

Easy self watering pot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4403057.

modular support system to help seedlings grow without falling over (e.g. sunflowers which grow fast and fragile)

print the base once per plant, then print however many segment pieces you need (start with none, then add one at a time as the plant grows). they are designed to slide onto one another (20mm overlap).

designed to support 0.8mm nozzles (should work on anything smaller as well).

Design is public in TinkerCad:  https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/fCbxc9454HO

Plant support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5540311.

# A case for your Pinecil v2 
## printable with fat (0.8mm) nozzles
## strong, securely latching lid


Demo: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/EIUq69howeI

Pinecil v2 case with strong lid

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2293996.

I tried using this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836566
but it was too narrow for my LEAF charger. Seems there is more than one size/type of OEM EVSE Nissan has used.

Mine is from a 2012 LEAF SL in the USA. 

I modeled this in 15 minutes in TinkerCAD - the first print is a great fit but I regret making the walls so thin (2mm). If it breaks I'll update with thicker walls (4mm?) otherwise feel free to update it yourself via the TinkerCAD link below.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/juiVgBzGtqP

evse holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168743.

Vacuum hose bracket for the Miele vacuum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2tvYcVSQnM

Fits the metal wand portion directly where it meets the flexible hose, enabling you to hang it in a closet/etc.

Designed to fit Miele Naturell but I suspect it would fit most or all Miele wand/hose designs.

Made in Tinkercad but unfortunately Tinkercad destroyed my design (All it saved was a very stale starting point). Sorry, no source to share :(


miele vacuum hose bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2203782.

I installed pegboard in my basement but needed a few extra standoffs. I designed these to match the commercially produced standoffs that I already had on hand.

pegboard standoffs

This is a **90% COMPLETE WORK IN PROGRESS**. It is already functional, but missing the following:
1. Holder/slot for the internal speaker
2. switch for voice activation control
3. rear panel to cover up around the USB slot and reuse the Roku flag
4. some mechanism to add IR filter material to the hole in front for the IR LED would be nice and improve the appearance

---------------------------
One of my dogs ate my Roku Voice Remote. The electronics survived, but the case was not salvageable. I wasn't able to find a ready made design to replace the damaged case, so this is my attempt at the same.

This is public in onshape here:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/9a1bfb1d31e6596f08c145e0/w/8f25e4c9c837cc29a71eb8c0/e/ee14b3e46f56976e23a957bc

Roku Voice Remote

One of my dogs ate my Roku Voice Remote. The electronics survived, but the case was not salvageable. I wasn't able to a ready made design to replace the damaged case, so this is my attempts at the same.

rocku voice remote v2

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