A clip to hold CPAP hoses.

I made this to keep my CPAP hoses in place while draining the over the shower curtain rod.  it's designed to fit 9mm and 11mm outside diameter hoses.  

CPAP hose clip 

clip_bar_2.stl

This is a plastic coaster. All quality is of .2 layer height. This objects menaces with spikes of plastic. On this item is an image of a Dwarf. The Dwarf appears to be smiling. This relates to the fandom of the game Dwarf Fortress.

There is a single piece version and a multi-material version ( 4 parts).  both are 105mm (4 1/8 inch) square and 5mm (3/16 inch) thick.  as a bonus, if you only print the edge and spikes parts from the multi-material version, you'll get an artifact bracelet.

it was inevitable

Dwarf Fortress artifact coaster

dwarf_fortress_coaster_artifact_coaster_whole.stl

This is a plastic coaster. All quality is of .2 layer height.  On this item is an image of a Dwarf. The Dwarf appears to be smiling. This relates to the fandom of the game Dwarf Fortress.

There is a single piece version and a multi-material version (3 parts).  both are 91mm ( 3 9/16 inch) square and 5mm ( 3/16 inch) thick.

it was inevitable

Dwarf Fortress coaster

dwarf_fortress_coaster.stl

This is my rendition of the logo for The Cybertronic Spree.

If you don't know who The Cybertronic Spree are, please visit their youtube channel.

I designed this to match the logo as closely as I could.  there are two versions of the logo.  cybertronic_spree_1 prints flat with no supports and does not have a background.  cybertronic_spree_2 has a 1mm cutout for a separate back plate and requires supports.  the back plate allows you to change the color of the eyes, mouth and crown.  

both models are about 120mm (4 3/4 inch) tall and 98mm (3 7/8 inch) wide and 7mm (¼ inch) deep


The Cybertronic Spree logo

cybertronic_spree_1.stl

a USB plug shaped like a baby pacifier.

I wanted a plug for my USB ports and thought this would be a funny.  this can be printed vertically or horizontally.  vertically looks better, but horizontally will be stronger.  I print them vertically and only break them with conscious effort.  This fits fine in UBS1 and USB2 ports.  I don't have a USB3 port to verify, but according to the design docs, it should work fine too.

pacifier USB plug 

USB_pacifier_3.stl

a simple display stand for your Circuit Witch plushie.  there's a circle base and a ufo base to choose from.  the pieces push fit together.  you do not need supports for the body rest, but I recommend honeycomb supports for the bases.  I find that honeycomb supports work best for pieces like these.

the body rest has a cutout to accommodate the headphones, if you have those accessories too.

If you are interested in in getting a Circuit Witch plushie of your own, there are still some available as of this posting.  Here's the link https://circuitwitch.bigcartel.com/product/circuitwitchplushie.

Circuit Witch plushie display stand 

ufo_display_base.stl

a Stanley 1913 cup for your Pocketnaut.

there's a right and left version.  in the image, the cup on the left was printed vertically and cup on the right was printed horizontally.  they were printed at the same time with 0.1 layer height, a 0.4 nozzle and supports on bed only. 

this was just a silly idea I had and I probably spent more time making sure the straw and handle printed ok and that the cup was the right height to not tip over the Pocketnaut, than I did making the initial version.  

Pocketnaut Stanley 1913 cup

stanley_cup_left.stl

a proton pack and neutrino wand accessory for your Pocketnaut 

a proton pack for your Pocketnaut with or without a neutrino wand attached.  there is a separate neutrino wand for the Pocketnaut to hold.  I made these as detailed as I could for the size.  I made the proton pack long enough so that it acts as a support to keep the Pocketnaut from tipping over.  I had to scale up the neutrino wand to the size of the backpack and then increase the handle size so it could be held.  they are both about 28mm (a little over an inch) tall/long.  now your Pocketnaut can have their own unlicensed nuclear accelerator on their back.

these were printed at 0.1 layer height with a .4 nozzle

if you're interested in doing something like this yourself, these are the best references I could find; https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Stefan_Otto%27s_Prop_Plans

Pocketnaut proton pack

pocketnaut_proton_pack_and_gun.stl

This is a basic Red Ryder carbine action two hundred shot range model air rifle for your Pocketnaut. 

I had this idea while watching A Christmas Story over the holiday.  It's a simple Red Ryder BB gun for your Pocketnaut.  It was just a fun, silly little project.  So now your BB gun mania can know no bounds.

this was printed at .1 layer height.


Pocketnaut Red Ryder BB gun 

red_ryder_bb_gun_6.stl

Some accessories for the Circuit Witch plushie for a Donatello cosplay.  The front and back pieces push fit together.  The bo staff comes as three pieces for easier printing or as a single piece for a more sturdy option.  If you print the three pieces, be sure to use a brim and add support blockers for the peg holes or paint on supports for the hook.  no supports are needed for the back shell and I found the current orientation allows the front to fit better.  the front didn't seem to fit as well when the back shell was printed vertically.  

If you are interested in in getting a Circuit Witch plushie of your own, there are still some available as of this posting.  Here's the link https://circuitwitch.bigcartel.com/product/circuitwitchplushie.

Circuit Witch plushie Donatello TMNT cosplay

front_shell_donnatello.stl

An espresso cup and accessories designed to be worn on your head for a Too Much Espresso Man costume/cosplay.  The cup has slots to fit ½ inch (12.7 mm) elastic band, but I thought it looked too wide.  I made a spacer to reduce the size to ¼ inch (6.35 mm) elastic band.  I felt this looked better but the ½ inch band is more stable, so I left it in.  There are two separate clasps, one for each size band.  Attach one end of the elastic band to the middle bar of the clasp.  Once the cup is attached, thread the other end through the two slots.  Once you have the fit right for you, cut off any extra band.

Too Much Espresso Man cup 

TMEM_cup.stl

A DDR4 ram stick.

I made this so I wouldn't have to keep downloading ram from the internet.  Now you won't have to keep downloading ram either.

Just, you know, don't try to actually install it.

DDR4 ram stick

DDR_ram.stl

A dummy 5.25 floppy disk.

I made this to have an actual disk to put in my 5.25 drive, that I keep for humor value.  

If you don't have a 5.25 drive, you could always use it as a large coaster.

dummy 5.25 floppy disk

5-25_floppy.stl

A connector that fits on the end of a 4 inch dryer hose, to reduce the size.

I made this to reduce the size of the dryer hose and give it a rigid end to use with a piece of XPS foam that I use as a gap filler.  This goes along with the fume extractor I did https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/1126078. The outer diameter of the smaller end is 72 mm (2 53/64 inch) and the inner diameter is 68 mm (2 43/64 inch).  

In case this size does not work for you, the inner diameter of the larger end is 112 mm (4 13/32 inch).  The hose will easily push in, but be snug enough to not fall out.

dryer hose connector 

exhaust_connector_full.stl

A collections of accessories for your Circuit Witch plushie.

I was lucky enough to be gifted a Circuit Witch plushie and wanted to give it some accessories.  I made some DJ headphones, a piggy treat bag, a wrench and a right and left handed blaster.  I printed them with the hand hook horizontal, so it would be stronger.

If you are interested in in getting a Circuit Witch plushie of your own, there are still some available as of this posting.  Here's the link https://circuitwitch.bigcartel.com/product/circuitwitchplushie.

Circuit Witch plushie accessories 

headphones.stl

A simple gum case that fits Orbit gum packs.  It protects the package and helps prevent the gum from going stale as quickly.  The lid is labeled on both sides and the grips are the word “gum” in braille.  The lid is meant to fit tightly on the base so that it does not fall off if held upside down.  

NOTE: The lid may not slide easily onto the base when first printed.  By carefully placing and removing the lid a few times, it should easily slide in place and still be snug enough to not fall off.

Orbit gum case

orbit_gum_case_top.stl

A simple gum case that fits Wrigleys gum packs.  It protects the package and helps prevent the gum from going stale  as quickly.  The lid is labeled on both sides and the grips are the word “gum” in braille.  The lid is meant to fit tightly on the base so that it does not fall off if held upside down.  

NOTE: The lid may not slide easily onto the base when first printed.  By carefully placing and removing the lid a few times, it should easily slide in place and still be snug enough to not fall off.

Wrigleys gum case 

wrigleys_gum_case_top.stl

A $220 dollar (store coupons) lightsaber for your pocketnaut.

I managed to get one of Crafsman's Pocketnauts.  I knew I needed to make one of these for it.  This was printed at .2 layer height.  I tried .1 layers, but the top seemed less sturdy and more likely to break off for some reason.

Here's the reference video; https://youtu.be/VzlkSjFXRlM?si=py0vxNBTfb04V5AL

Pocketnaut lightsaber 

pocketnaut_lukes_lightsaber.stl

A power cord protector for use with the Printed Solid next generation safety enclosure for Prusa.

This piece fits into the square opening on the Printed Solid next generation safety enclosure for Prusa.  The panels are sheets of acrylic sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum.  While the edges are not sharp, I thought this would be a good idea.  It was also fun and easy to design and print.

power cord protector

Enclosure_Power_Cord_Protector.stl

Fume extractor housing for Printed Solid next generation safety enclosure for Prusa. 

I designed this to use with my Printed Solid next generation safety enclosure for Prusa.  It fits over one of the round openings and uses a 100 mm PC cooling fan, which is the right size to fit inside a 4 inch flexible ducting vent hose (dryer vent hose).  I used this tutorial as guide (mostly for the wiring); https://www.instructables.com/Minimalist-3D-Printed-Fume-Extractor/.  I had the fan left over from a old PC.  I got the power supply, power jack and switch on amazon at the following links;
power jack link; https://www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Connector-5-5x2-1mm-Terminal-Replacement/dp/B07MPS3QD8
5.5mm x 2.1mm dc socket
switch link; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012IJ38S6
12 volt 20 amp
power supply link; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E5IXW
12 volt 2 amp ac to dc 2.1 mm x 5.5 mm plug
I also bought 22 gauge wire, but that particular item is no longer available.  I also used shrink tubing, 4 #6-32 2 inch screws (with nuts), and #6 washers from Home Depot.
I used some extra screws and nuts from the enclosure kit to mount the housing to the enclosure.

The control panel is removable to help with assembly and can be replaced with a 44 mm (1 47/64 inch) wide x 26 mm (1 1/64 inch) height x 2 mm (5/64 inch) thick piece with cutouts to fit your hardware.  If you need a thicker piece, the indent is only 1 mm (1/32 inch) deep on all sides.  The control panel lid should fit snugly, but is held in place by the top of the fan housing.  There is enough space under the cone to house any extra wire you might have.  I simply cut the molex connector off the fan and left the rest of the wire attached.

This is easiest to assemble and attach if the enclosure is on it's side, so it's on the horizontal plane.  It's still fairly easy to assemble in the vertical position.  The parts should fit snugly enough to hold in place and the cone fits through the base and into the enclosure side.  This helps hold it and any extra wire in place.  The top-most nut that holds the top of the housing on is the tricky part.  I used a glue stick to put a bit of glue on one flat side and two adjacent edge sides.  This was enough to hold it in place until I could get the fan and top part in place and the top screw in.  I only used washer on top 

If you are going to be using metric fasteners, you will need 4 M3 50 mm screws with matching nuts and washers.  You can use up to 55 mm screws, but you may need to add extra washers.  The M3 nuts I was able to get were 5.5 mm wide, which is much smaller that the 7.8 mm (5/16 inch) nuts that came with my screws.  I made an adapter so that the smaller metric nuts fit into that fits into the slots for the nuts.  The nut slots will fit nuts up 7.8 mm wide and 2.8 mm thick.

Fume Extractor 

fume_extractor_base.stl

A 3d printable clock face designed to work with replacement clock kits. 

I made this model based on this piece of art by DanHobb5designs; https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1WGypM2P-/.  This is a functional clock face, clock kit not included.  Most of the work was done in FreeCAD, with the more organic aspects being done in Blender.  I tried to make this easy to print, easy to assemble and hopefully easy to paint, while staying as true to the original art as possible.  Needing minimal support was also a design consideration.  I also designed parts to allow for assembly and hanging without the clock kit.

The total outer diameter is 200 mm (7 7/8 inches) and it was designed to be printed at a .2 layer height.  The right side decoration and the two hands are the only pieces that might benefit from a lower resolution.  The pieces are shaped or keyed to fit in a specific way where necessary.  The pieces were designed to fit easily but snug against each other.  If they fit too snugly, a light sanding should fix it.  If you find the hands don't sit correctly, try reducing or disabling elephant foot compensation.  The undercut can be enough to make the pieces not sit correctly.

The clock kit I used is here; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742439S3.  As long as the kit has a minimum thread length of 12 mm (15/32 inch) and a maximum shaft diameter of 8mm (5/16 inch), this should work fine.  

Steps to assemble the clock.  You don't need the non-mechanism files if you are using a clock kit.

1. Glue the clock mechanism guide to the back of the clock center.  This is optional, but will help ensure the clock mechanism is attached in the correct orientation.

2. Attach the clock mechanism to the clock face using the instructions included in the kit.  Use a pair of pliers to tighten the nut securely.

3. Once the clock mechanism is secured in place, place the right side decoration on the post.  Glue the right side decoration center to the top of the post.  The right side decoration can also be glued down, but it is not necessary.

4. Attach but do not glue the central flower decoration to cover the nut and washer from the kit.  This piece should fit securely and is meant to be easily removable if needed.  

5. Glue the numeral recesses piece to the numeral ring.  There are keys and indents to insure correct orientation.

6. Glue the numeral ring to the clock center.  There are three keyed supports that fit into notches on the back of the numeral ring.  This assures the numerals are orientated correctly.

7. Glue the clock center with the attached numeral ring to the outer ring.  The supports on the outer ring will fit in the spaces between the numeral recesses.

8. Place the hour hand (the shorter hand with the hexagon cutout) over the drive shaft and rotate it while gently pressing down, until is slides into place.

9. Do the same with the minute hand (the longer hand with the slot cutout) and secure it with the nut provided in the kit.

10. Fit the center decoration on the nut used to hold the minute hand in place.

The steps for assembly without the clock kit will be the same, except you need to glue the clock support with hanger to the back of the clock center and insert the center decoration spacer into the center decoration before gluing on.  When attaching the hands, it's probably best to glue them from the top.

Mandala clock face

clock_center.stl

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