_Creality Ender 3 users only need the knob. more info in last update below_

**#ZKNOB**
This two piece part replaces and adds to the acrylic stock cover on the Creality CR-10's Z-axis lead screw; It lets you manually control the hot end up and down (when steppers are disabled), which I have found to be VERY handy at times. For example when you're loading filament, stopping a failing print or first layer, you can easily lift the hot end by hand to give you more working space and a better view of the piece.

Works exactly the same as the earlier version I made, just with a bigger knob. This way it takes less spinning to manually up and down the hotend. Easily fluently movable with just one finger. Cover plate is the same as in the original version.

**VIDEOS**
A simple quick and dirty demonstration by me of how the knob works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPHjmhsJESk

And a far more professional video by Chuck Hellebuyck on how to install the knob (and some other useful CR-10 (mini) mods) on Filament Friday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDG_C5y-psU&t=3m23s (3 minnutes and 23 seconds in).

**Print Settings**
_Print the knob upside down. No supports needed._

I used 3 perimiters and a 30% infill, but you could go higher for extra strength. I've been using mine on a daily basis for years now and I haven't had any problems yet.

Pictured parts are printed in Das Filament PLA at 210°C/50°C on the Creality CR-10.

**Post-Printing/Installation**
Just swap the acrylic stock part with the freshly printed cover plate, using the stock screws. The knob then simply screws onto the lead screw until it's snug enough to let you control both up and down movements with it.

**UPDATES & HELPFUL COMMENTS**

01/24/2019
If you want to use the ZKNOB on the Ender 3, you don't need the cover plate, as the Ender 3 has a loose lead screw. I suggest printing Ben White's stabilizer, which holds a 608 skateboard bearing and secures the top of the lead screw, so you can safely screw up and down without having to be extra cautious.
P.S. A filament guide is necessary to use the knob on the Ender 3 if you have your filament holder on top.

FIX (02/10/2018)
Thanks to user wonkoderverstaendige I found out there was a tiny (but real) problem with the file. Basically the knob floated a mere 0.002mm above the stem, which only caused a problem when sliced in particular way, but it had definitely a weak spot. So if yours snapped at any point, this is probably why. You should have no problems with the fixed file anymore. Sorry for the inconvenience if it got you frustrated!

10/28/2017
Pemic: "The knob works also for the Tevo Tornado. The stock cover is not necessary. To gain a little space on the upper side of the spindle, you have to pull the Z stepper axle a little it out of the coppler."

10/28/2017
Fort_Design: "I just wanted to let you know that this design will not fit the Anet E10. Mainly because the housing of the upper bearing on the E10 is closed on top. One would have to redesign these housings. Diameter of the spindle on Anet E10 is 8mm."


Z-Axis Manual Adjustment Knob (CR10,  Ender 3, HicTop, Tevo Tornado)

CR10_ZKNOB-Z-axis-manual-adjustment-knob_by-Baschz-Leeft.stl

Replacement spatula to clean the vat of my Elegoo Mars resin printer after I lost the one that came with the machine, and it works perfectly.

I printed it in PLA on an FDM machine (Ender 3) with a 0.2mm layer height, three top and bottom layers and a 20% gyroid infill. The next one I will probably give one or two extra top and bottom layers, but so far it has been strong enough since you won't (or shouldn't) put too much pressure on it anyway.

TIP: Set the seam to be on the handle side to avoid possible sharp edges on the scraping side.

Use at your own risk.

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos

Spatula for Resin Printers

Replacement spatula to clean the vat of my Elegoo Mars resin printer after I lost the one that came with the machine, and it works perfectly.

I printed it in PLA on an FDM machine (Ender 3) with a 0.2mm layer height, three top and bottom layers and a 20% gyroid infill. The next one I will probably give one or two extra top and bottom layers, but so far it has been strong enough since you won't (or shouldn't) put too much pressure on it anyway.

TIP: Set the seam to be on the handle side to avoid possible sharp edges on the scraping side.

Use at your own risk.

FOR FLEXIBLE FILAMENT ONLY
IMPORTANT: Use Concentric as the initial layer pattern

Watch video to see the created Beskar effect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-BZM-giOo4

I used the already well-designed Adafruit bumper case as a starting point, as I saw no need in redesigning something good and I wanted to focus on seeing if I could get a nice pattern going.

I first filled in the openings on the original case's backside and then drew a bunch of splines in sort of a Damascus steel pattern. I offset them 0,4 mm and cut them out of the first layer (0,2 mm deep, as that's the resolution I would be printing in), hoping this would leave shapes which would be filled fittingly to the Beskar/Damascus pattern if I used Concentric as the pattern of my first layer. I think it came out quite nice.

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos

Mandalorian | Beskar Steel iPhone X Case

FOR FLEXIBLE FILAMENT ONLY
use Concentric as the initial layer pattern
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-BZM-giOo4

I used the already well-designed Adafruit bumper case as a starting point, as I saw no need in redesigning something good and I wanted to focus on seeing if I could get a nice pattern going.

I first filled in the openings on the original case's backside and then drew a bunch of splines in sort of a Damascus steel pattern. I offset them 0,4 mm and cut them out of the first layer (0,2 mm deep, as that's the resolution I would be printing in), hoping this would leave shapes which would be filled fittingly to the Beskar/Damascus pattern if I used Concentric as the pattern of my first layer. I think it came out quite nice.

To display my carded enamel pins I designed a stand which nicely presents them in shops, on markets, etc. They work great well on their own, but can also connect to themselves, so you can create a whole line of them.

You can of course use them for business cards, Pokémon, Magic, or any other cards you might have as well. Postcards, polaroids, you name it!

Speaking of photos; please share yours if you've printed these and use them. I would love to see them. My Instagram and Twitter handle is @baschz. Have a nice day!

Wondering about the pin? Check it and lots more out in my web shop on http://www.lamballbakra.com.

PRINT UPSIDE DOWN for best results

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos

Interlocking Business Card Stand & Holder

To display my carded enamel pins I designed a stand which nicely presents them in shops, on markets, etc. They work great well on their own, but can also connect to themselves, so you can create a whole line of them.

You can of course use them for business cards, Pokémon, Magic, or any other cards you might have as well. Postcards, polaroids, you name it!

Speaking of photos; please share yours if you've printed these and use them. I would love to see them. My Instagram and Witter handle is @baschz. Have a nice day!

Wondering about the pin? It's a Kapsalon (Dutch for barbershop); the infamous Rotterdam caloryiebomb, invented by a hairdresser and his neighbouring kebab shop, which is slowly but surely taking over the world. The inedible soft enamel pin version is available in my web shop on http://www.lamballbakra.com.

Printing tip:
PRINT UPSIDE DOWN for best results

Lost some so I copied the design and printed replacement feet for my 1980's Rummikub tile holder trays. Please help yourself if you miss some too.

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos

Rummikub Tile Holder Tray Replacement Feet

Lost some so I copied the design and printed replacement feet for my 1980's Rummikub tile holder trays. Please help yourself if you miss some too.

A quick panel key that I needed for an electricity box in my garden that I gave a bit of a Fisher Pricey toy look while I was at it.

I made the hole 8.2mm instead of an exact 8mm, to account for a tiny bit of over-extrusion while printing.

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos

Panel Key 8mm Square Female

A quick panel key that I needed for an electricity box in my garden that I gave a bit of a toy look while I was at it.

I made the hole 8.2mm instead of an exact 8mm, to account for a tiny bit of over-extrusion while printing.

Video of the filament and sticker roll holder made from this base model https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoEVKUT1jc0

I recently bought a second hand LUNDIA Original shelving system to create some order in my tiny workspace at home. To use this storage rack to its fullest I've designed a piece that slides into the cut out rail in the wooden uprights and can then be secured with one of the original pins that come with the system.

This piece is a base onto which I (and you) can design whatever I (and you) need to hang in this small new work station. Feel free to use and remix at will, please DO mention where you got it from and SHARE your design, because I would love to see what you will use it for plus that's the license I'm giving it :)

PRINTS BEST UPSIDE DOWN

You Can Also Find Me On
http://www.lamballbakra.com webshop
http://www.baschz.com website
http://www.instagram.com/baschz where I am most active
http://www.youtube.com/baschz for videos


LUNDIA Shelving System Connector Base Shape

I recently bought a second hand LUNDIA Original shelving system to create some order in my tiny workspace at home. To use this storage rack to its fullest I've designed a piece that slides into the cut out rail in the wooden uprights and can then be secured with one of the original pins that come with the system.

This piece is a base onto which I (and you) can design whatever I (and you) need to hang in this small new work station. Feel free to use and remix at will, please DO mention where you got it from and SHARE your design, because I would love to see what you will use it for plus that's the license I'm giving it :)

PRINTS BEST UPSIDE DOWN


Artist, designer, maker, curator from Rotterdam, the Netherlands.

baschz.com
lamballbakra.com

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Z-Axis Manual Adjustment Knob (CR10, Ender 3, HicTop, Tevo Tornado)