A stand I designed for the Anker PowerExpand+ 7-in-1 USB-C PD Media Hub. It has an optional adjustable clamp for holding it on the edge of a table.

Anker USB-C Docking Station Stand

Anker dock holder.STL

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908192.

I got back into building balsa R/C and FF models in 2017 after having been out of the hobby for 15 years. While I was perfectly ok with building planes the old-school way, pinning parts to a soft flat board, I figured out quickly that magnetic building boards and 3D printing go together like PB&J.  I started out with Marco_D's excellent fixtures, but through several builds, I've gradually designed more of my own fixtures as I've seen opportunities to do so.

All my fixtures use the same 20x10x4mm rare earth magnets as many of Marco_D's. For attaching the magnets, I have included holes in the parts that a 4-40 flathead screw will thread into without requiring tapping - M3 screws may also work but I haven't tried it. The slotted triangles, bridge beam, and press arms take #10 or M5 screws. The press arm holes will need to be tapped in either case.

I have included a ZIP file of the source parts in Solidworks 2016 format.

Pictures should give some idea of how fixtures are used, but here are a few notes on the function of each:
- **tapped holddown**: Remix of Marco_D's, holds down parts with thicknesses of 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4".
- **ext_hold_down**: Same as above, but with extended tapered fingers for reaching into corners better.
- **tall 4-way holddown**: same as tapped holddown but for heights of 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4".
- **step triangle**: Remix of Marco_D's with slot changed to use rare earth magnet.
- **large tri and med tri**: use by themselves to hold parts square to board, or in conjunction with bridge beam or press arm as required.
- **25/50/75/100mm press arm**: attach to slotted triangle and and adjust vertical screw to hold large parts down.
- **bridge beam**: attach to 2 slotted triangles to support parts in midair.
- **magnetic former jig & former jig holddown (WARNING - UNTESTED)**: I designed this for an old-timer design with a horizontal crutch and elliptical formers, which requires the whole fuselage be framed up in midair. The idea is to set the crutch on the top surface and use the holddowns like hooks, while using a couple more holddowns as pressing fingers to hold the former to the face in the correct position. The CAD image might explain it more clearly. Very specialized use case, so you probably won't ever need it.

Magnetic fixtures for R/C aircraft building

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4721528.

This is a bezel to create a finished mounting for the bind/mode/LED board for a FrSky XHT module. If you are modifying a plug-in module to mount the small board remotely, I believe this bezel will work for those also.

EDIT 2/2/21: I now have a resin printer, which can do a much better job of making this part, so I have added a resin-specific version with label text. The FDM version is intended to be printed face down to eliminate supports, but I'm printing the resin version face up to keep the outer surface clean.

FrSky XHT External PCB Bezel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:142282.

The Mmintbox is my design for an enclosure for an Arduino with an LCD keypad shield.  These are the files for my latest prototype.  It was the subject of an unsuccessful Indiegogo campaign to make an injection-molded version.  

EDIT 2014-08-01: Added the Solidworks 2013 source files, as well as STEP files for each configuration.  CC-BY-SA, so have at it!  If you make molded ones, send me some, k?

EDIT 2016-04-22: Per user suggestions from [davidcyr2000](http://www.thingiverse.com/davidcyr2000) and [bathrobotics](http://www.thingiverse.com/bathrobotics), I have enlarged the USB and power cutouts, added a knock-out window to the right side of the box, and separated the box and lid STLs.  I also added an STL of the box without the built-in supports for those who don't require them.

Mmintbox 1 Enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1827626.

These are the files I used to greensand cast a new intake for my Suzuki FA50 moped in order to use a Mikuni VM-16 carburetor.  I used ZA27 alloy, but straight zinc or aluminum should work fine.  Files are for the printed test prototype, patterns, and core box.  If you're capable of making one, you'll figure it out.

Suzuki FA50 Intake Manifold for Mikuni VM-16

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747430.

I modified the Photon Zero Dripping Hook Prototype by niccoreyes to angle the plate up 15 degrees to help the excess resin flow to a single corner. I also made the walls a more uniform thickness so the printer does less darting around to fill the corners. Solidworks 2016 source included.

Photon Zero drip hook - double angled

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693851.

This is a simple housing to hold a 4 in 1 DC power meter & a 50A/75mV shunt like this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCD5J81/
The meter opening is 45mm x 85mm.

I am using it to monitor the input power for the laser module on my Sainsmart LE5040 laser engraver. It is attached to the T-slot frame by using the shunt's M5 mounting screws and t-nuts.

The meter model I used can be found here: https://grabcad.com/library/energy-meter-1
The shunt model I used can be found here: https://grabcad.com/library/shunt-4



Power meter housing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2923802.

I like to have an arming plug on my larger RC planes for safety so I designed this unit to work with inexpensive XT60 connectors.  Solder a shorting wire across the removable plug side before snapping the cover over it.  I was able to thread M3 screws into the holes without tapping but your results may vary. XT60 connectors are very tight when new, so use some silicone grease to help the connectors assemble and separate easier.

I also included Solidworks 2017 source files for your designing pleasure.

XT60 arming safety plug

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4380503.

Printed power pod for RC sailplane. Designed specifically for a Goldberg Sophisticated Lady, but should work for most 2m sailplanes. Uses a 2212 brushless motor. Mine has a 930kv motor with an 8x4.5 folding prop on 3S. Plenty of space for the ESC to fit in the pod. Screw bosses to attach the halves are sized for #4 screws, so M3 should work also.

The "motor spacer" part was a quick fix for some messed up screw holes, it isn't required but might help someone out.



RC Sailplane Power Pod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3138954.

This is a mount to attach a 5.5 x 2.5 mm barrel jack to a Kinect V2 (the Xbox One version) as part of the common DIY mod to allow it to connect to a PC via regular USB 3 cable instead of shelling out for the special adapter.  

Kinect V2 power jack mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4560632.

Air assist nozzle for the Sainsmart Genmitsu LE5040 laser engraver. This part replaces the stock acrylic spacer that the laser module attaches to. Air hose hole is sized as a friction fit for standard vinyl aquarium air line.
There are 2 versions: one for the standard lens as supplied, and the "hi-res" version works with the [JTech Photonics hi-res lens](https://jtechphotonics.com/?product=high-resolution-ar-coated-lens), which has a shorter focus distance. 

Sainsmart LE5040 air assist

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4781134.

Part to adapt a NEJE 30W module to the carriage of a Sainsmart LE5040 engraver.

NEJE 30W laser module to Sainsmart LE5040 mount

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