I found that the screw-together baseplates from the [Gridfinity OpenSCAD generator](https://github.com/kennetek/gridfinity-rebuilt-openscad) tend to curl when screwed, as the bottom part gets compressed by the bolted joint.

I designed this extremelty simple shim that can be placed between the plates inside the bolted joint to compensate that compression. For me, 0.4mm thickness did the job the best, but I also included a 1mm version so that you can experiment with different thicknesses by scaling that model in the slicer.

Screw shim for Gridfinity OpenSCAD screw-together baseplates

Baseplate Shim 0.4mm.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6203153.

***You wouldn't download a data jack...***

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2155073 made to better fit my particular dial gauge, in this case a Neotek 0-25.4mm/1" 0.01mm/0.0005"

I made the following changes:

* Removed the nut and bolt strain relief.
* Shortened the insertable length, as the original length caused shorts in my gauge when fully inserted.
* Shortened the jack slightly.
* Deepened the front holes slightly, as I find that makes it easier to keep the wires inserted while bending them.

I used CAT 5E cable with a solid core, 0.5mm diameter stripped. You will also need some kind of glue to fix the cables in place and prevent the pins from being bent. I used Starbond DW-500 (cyanoacrylate) with CA accelerator, which works very well for this kind of thing.

Digital dial gauge data jack

Minimalistic mount to place the Creality limit switch (seen for instance in the Ender 3) on top of a T-slot profile.

Bill of materials:

2 x M3 T-nut
1 x FHCS M3x6 (screw inside T-nut through clearance hole in mount)
1 x SBHC M3x10 (screw inside T-nut through  clearance hole in mount)
1 x SBHC M3x6 (screw directly into tapped hole in the mount)

T-nut endstop mount for Creality limit switch from Ender 3

Minimalistic mount to place the Creality limit switch (seen for instance in the Ender 3) on top of a T-slot profile.

Bill of materials:

2 x M3 T-nut
1 x FHCS M3x6 (screw inside T-nut)
1 x SBHC M3x10 (screw inside T-nut)
1 x SBHC M3x6 (screw directly into the mount)

Model of the small vibration compensation mounts that come with some Noctua fans, like the NF-F12.

Noctua Low Profile Vibration Compensator

Case for 1x10cm feeler gauges. I printed it in PLA with a 0.6mm nozzle.

A parametric Fusion 360 file is provided, so it can be tweaked for different feeler gauges.

You will need:

1. M4x16mm pan head bolt.
2. M4 washer.
3. An M4 tap.
4. Pliers.

Instructions:

1. Print the case and knob (no supports needed).
2. Use an M4 tap on the knob hole, in the side of the bigger face. Because of its size, you will need pliers to do this. The cutout in the barrel is meant to help holding it with pliers.
3. Use an M4 tap on the small hole in the case, going through the bigger hole for the knob barrel.
4. Screw an M4x16mm pan head bolt in the knob with an M4 washer.
5. Before putting the knob in the case, use an Allen key to tighten the bolt very hard on the knob. The goal is for the knob to not unscrew itself from the bolt during later use.
6. Place the feeler gauges inside the case and screw the bolt until the gauges are secure.

Usage:

Turning the knob you can release or hold the gauges. The cutout in the bottom is meant to help push any gauges inside before use. The knob can be removed and reinstalled if it's desired to take them out.

Feeler gauge case

Holder.obj

This is a simple elegant hook for keys.

Meant to be printed in resin without supports (print directly on the build plate). To make things easy for yourself, use as thin layers as you can.

The ones in the picture were printed at 0.10mm and 0.05mm layer heights respectively. After printing, I sanded them with Artima tools and polishing wheels; primed them with Vallejo Acrylic Primer; then painted them with Vallejo Airbrush Metallics; then varnished with Vallejo Game Color Polyurethane Varnish for durability.

The hook can be easily and securely held to the wall by using nanogel tape.

Fusion 360 source file is included.

Key hanger hook for wall

This is a simple elegant hook for keys.

Meant to be printed in resin without supports (print directly on the build plate). To make things easy for yourself, use as thin layers as you can.

The ones in the picture were printed at 0.10mm and 0.05mm layer heights respectively. After printing, I sanded them with Artima tools and polishing wheels; primed them with Vallejo Acrylic Primer; then painted them with Vallejo Airbrush Metallics; then varnished with Vallejo Game Color Polyurethane Varnish for durability.

Fusion 360 source file is included.

My metal valve wrench didn't have the exact dimensions I needed for one of my airbrushes, so I designed this tiny wrench in a pinch.

Took a few attempts, and a ridiculous amount of chamfers, but this worked printed in PLA with a 0.6mm nozzle and didn't break after several uses, even without the best print quality.

I can't promise it will also work for you, but I include the Fusion 360 file as well in case you want to make any changes.

Airbrush air valve wrench

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