Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4821143.

This is a collection of custom Sony TV Remote backplate. 

The Base is a clone of the original, without the branding, to allow you to print a replacement part in case your original one has broken (or if you just want to change the color)

The custom ones give a larger grip at the bottom of the remote for more comfort while holding it and allow you to know when you're holding the remote backwards, which is why I wanted to design this thing in the first place. I grabbed the remote backwards way too often to not do something about it and I figured I might not be alone.

Sony TV mg3-tx300u Remote Backplate-Battery cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790426.

A simple wide roller that aligns the filament with the extruder hole.

Uses a 8x22x7mm bearing (standard 608ZZ bearing) and one M5 screw and nut. the nut should embed flush with the plastic.

The model also includes a filler to go around the screw and mitigate the space between the screw and the inner shaft of the bearing, but I'd recommend you design your own filler to make sure it will fit your screw and bearing.

It might be compatible with the Ender 3 "Original" edition as well as the Ender-3v2, but I cannot test it since I only own the Ender 3 Pro.

I printed it in PETG, but I have no doubt that any filament material would do for this roller.


=================

TLDR, You'll need :
    - M5 screw
    - M5 nut
    - 608ZZ bearing (8mm x 22mm x 7mm)

Filament Roller Guide for Ender-3 pro

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4850436.

This stand was designed according to the MLB size standard for a ball so it fits perfectly.

The print itself is simple and requires no support and no additional part (except for the baseball you want to showoff)

Baseball Stand

Simple corner covers for drop ceilings wall rails. 

I couldn't get the corners of my drop ceiling look good, so I made these. there are two types of corner, each with a "supported" and an "unsupported" version, which I called "empty".

By "outer corner", I mean the type that kind of goes around the corner of the wall, and the simple "corner" type is just your usual corner when the room is rectangular.

The supported version are available if your rails have a space between them. The support just slides between the rails in that case. if you have no space between the rails in the corner, use the "empty" version

Drop ceiling corner covers

an "Inner corner" cover. this one has a support in the middle of the corner if there's enough space between the wall rails

supported_corner.stl

This is a simple dicebox for your D&D dice. There are 3 dice compartments: two smaller secondary ones and one main, larger one. There is also a slot where you can store a pen. I used shop towels as a cushion for my pen because it's fancy like me.

Dungeons & Dragons Dice Box

This box has logos of the game. they can be removed rather easily in sketchup or Fusion 360 if you want to edit one or more sides 

TheBox_Logo_v2.stl

I couldn't install my LG air conditioning unit in any room of my new house because it was designed to be installed in a sliding window and my house only has pivoting windows.

I figured I could open the window and replace the window's bug screen with a veneer board and mount a bracket on it for the Air conditioner's exhaust port to attach to.

This thing uses these additional parts:
    - 8x M5 hexagonal nuts
    - 8x M5x16mm screws

The bracket pieces are 218mm long! The fit on my ender 3 was very tight and I had to remove any skirt and brim from my slicer settings for it to fit on the bed. the surface is rather wide, so they aren't really needed anyways.


** Brackets preparation **
Right after the print, I suggest using a drill or an Exacto knife to deburr and remove any extra filament residue. The screws should slide easily. It's not a problem if it's not done, but mounting the bracket will be harder.

** Prepare the veneer board **
I included a stencil in the project. Of course, you can eyeball it, but I liked using the sencil with my Dremel to have a more accurate cutout:
    - Draw every corner points in a rectangular pattern. the poins should be at the corners of a 190mm x 74mm rectangle.
    - Use a 10mm drill bit to make a hole on each corner
    - Sit the pegs of the stencil in the holes
    - Use your preferred tool to carve the middle hole (I used a drill to puch somes hole in the middle and a Dremel with a straight router bit for the perimeter.)
     - Check the fit of the "inner" part with your hole and make the necessary corrections.

** Assembling the part **
The part was designed to use M5 screws and nuts. I used 16mm long screws

I made an animation in fusion 360 showing how I did mount the brackets. it was more for the fun of it than actually thinking you guys would need a video... but this animation was more fun to make than I thought. Now it's made, so I might as well include it loll.

The video is down here.
https://youtu.be/uU79Rl14tYo


**How I Designed This**
I recently started trying to use Fusion 360 after a few years of amateur experience with Sketchup and truth be told, I'm rather proud of this design.

Here, you can see the build animation of the first version. after I printed it, I realized the middle screw were a bit too close to the border and were interfering with the exhaust port. it was functional, but I was confident I could also make the bracket stronger so I spaced the middle screws out of the middle hole and added a casing around the clips of the exhaust port.

The final result was very satisfying to me and now, I finally have AC in my home office.

here's the build animation for the first version : https://youtu.be/HX4udECkFOo

and the build animation for version 2 : https://youtu.be/cVpYTB1sKEc

 LG A-C any windows adapter bracket

The part to which the exhaust port head will attach to.

innerPlate_V2.stl

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