An old fashioned chunky lock and key with working bolt and lever mechanism.
Created a lock for the cubby house door.  I wanted a nice big old fashioned key and it went from there.

The lock has a working mechanism so once the bolt has moved across it is locked in position until you turn the key again.

Unlike the old iron locks, its really easy to turn the key. I'd almost say a pleasure to use!

Very short video showing it working…
https://youtu.be/11DwejvkdYs

I printed in PETG for a bit of strength.

Screws used:
- 4 small screws to attach the lid  4g x 12mm
- 4 long screws to attach to the door 6g x39mm (you could use longer)

Supports only required for the key.  Print the key with a Brim so it has good bed adhesion and then trim off the Brim and supports after printing.  I also gave it a light sand.

Old fashioned door lock and key

Key.stl

A small bath to clean linear rails in degreaser or isopropyl alcohol. Always wash new linear rails.
A small bath to wash your linear rails in degreaser or isopropyl alcohol.
You should always wash new linear rails to remove any anti-rust or dried grease on the rails.

Fits 150mm MGN7 rails typically fitted to Voron 0.1 3D printers.

Put rail in the bath, add IPA, then slide the carriage back and forth 10 times.  It's amazing how smooth rails are afterwards.

You can see it in action on YouTube 
https://youtu.be/L8nmWSs23eQ

Be careful taking the rail out of the bath, the carriage can now very easily slide off the end of the rail.

Small funnel STL file also attached to assist with disposing of cleaning solution.

I printed in PETG.

You can also scale this model in the slicer to use with larger linear rails.


Linear Rail Bath - Clean your linear rails

Linear Rail bath 150mm v1.stl

M2 T-Nuts for Voron 0.1 Makerbeam XL 1515 extrusion. Use with M2 self tapping screws or bolts.
M2 T-Nuts are great for attaching components to Voron 0 3D printers, to 1515 aluminium extrusion or even attach the Voron 0 case using the T-Nuts. You can use these 'post build' when you can't slide any M3 nuts into the extrusion slots because the ends are blocked off.

The extrusion gap is 3.3mm so the T-Nuts have only a small amount of plastic to encase the M2 thread, so worth watching the video to print them correctly.

See video for tips on how to make & use 
https://youtu.be/b-SEgJt-8dc

T-Nuts for 1515 extrusion are hard to come by so these plastic versions are a good solution. They're not designed for heavy loads but are good for extra add ons.

They're great for attaching Voron 0 case panels!  No fiddling with M3 nuts and positioning them in the right place.

**How to Print**
Prusa Slicer - Printer setting "Perimeter Generation" should be Classic not Arachne  so the perimeter lines are continous and stronger at the sides of the print.  Arachne seems to break up the lines which weakens the print.  Check the above YouTube video for details.

- 0.4 nozzle
- 0.2mm layer height
- Print in ABS if installing in a hot enclosure.

**How to use**
- Put screw in the correct side which is the side with the round collar.
- The screw length should be the thickness of the object plus 3-4mm.  For example, 8mm M2 screw requires 4mm thickness for the object being attached and 4mm into the slot.


M2 T-Nut - use for Voron 0.1 Makerbeam XL 1515 Extrusion

M2 T-Nuts - use for Voron 0.1 Makerbeam XL 1515 Extrusion

Stand for your Playstation 4 controllers and headphones. Parts make it configurable to add more controllers or headphones.

Has a very stable base so can easily go higher to add more Playstation controllers or headphones.

The pole is screwed together using 7cm straight section sections and 2cm stopper sections to hold a stand.  Screw parts together while threading on stands above the stoppers.
All parts printed without supports.

Stands were printed on their sides with a brim to help with bed adhesion.

I printed parts with screw threads using 0.15mm layer height.
Stands were printed with 0.2mm layer height.
 
Base was printed with 30% infill.  All other parts has 50% infill.



PS4 Controller and Headphone Stand

Base.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946636.

Designed this window latch for the kids cubby house.

Used two M5 25mm hex head bolts for the pivots.

Secured to the window and frame with:
- one 39mm M4 countersunk screw for the spike.
- four 15mm M4 countersunk screws for the 2 brackets.

I did want a slightly longer arm but was limited by my Ender 3 build plate size.



Window Latch (Casement Stay)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5371995.

Small drawer which can be installed disceetly under your table or workbench.

Concealed Handy Drawer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4940951.

Got a request for a larger 10mm crochet hook from the family.

Short video to see it in action… 
https://youtu.be/oNtpJoz3-nk

Printed with the hook facing upwards and...

Brim - to get good attachment to the bed, then cleaned up with a little sharp knife trimming and very light sand on any bits that might catch the yarn.

Layer Height - 0.1mm

Infill - 20%


Got a good review from the user!


Crochet Hook

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5344972.

Print this great little stopper for takeaway coffee cups.  Perfect for preventing spills in your car cup holder or when carrying your takeaway order in a cardboard tray.

Small enough to keep handy and hook onto your keyring.

Watch it in action 
https://youtu.be/WtvZSm9ikP8



Coffee Lid Stopper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4936800.

A screw down bracket with countersunk screw holes (4 gauge screws) and larger clearance to allow for different tightening knobs.

Inspired by macd2point0's Modular Mounting System Aluminium Extrusion Bracket.



Modular Mounting System Screw Down Bracket

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https://www.makermike.xyz

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