This block holds a 1/4" shank rabbeting bit with its accompanying bearings and allen key. It has slots for 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm and 5.5mm bearings. It was specifically modelled with Amana Tool's 49436 rabbeting bit set in mind, but should work for other sets as well.

Metric Rabbeting Bit Holder 3.5mm to 5.5mm (Amana Tool 49436)

metric-rabbeting-bit-holder-3-to-5.stl

A 3D printable vacuum workholding system for clamping stock to a CNC machine.

The goal here was to design a tiny DIYable system similar to [the Air Weights Work Holding System.](https://airweights.com/products/airweights-complete-kit) Because this design is limited by the size of the 3D printer the workspace is much more limited. However, it has worked great for running repeated jobs for smaller parts and will get you going for a fraction of the cost.

**Printed Parts**

- **Vacuum Pad** - The pad itself gives a work area of 5.5" x 9.5". It should fit nicely on any i3 style print bed. The four tabs that extend off the side of the pad allow you to screw the pad down to your CNC table. I had my CNC cut the holes directly into my spoilboard then slotted in some threaded inserts so I can easily add/remove the vacuum pad with 4 machine screws.  The air inlet port is on the bottom of the pad, which means you will need to run the air through the bottom of your CNC table. Originally I had the port extending out of the side but I started running into clearance issues when cutting thicker material so this decision was made in order to slim the pad down as much as possible. It also has the added benefiet of keeping the air hose out of the way.

- **Air Adapter** - This part will stick into the bottom of the vacuum pad. It is threaded to fit a 1/4" NPT quick connect fitting. I found that printing this at a .1 layer height made the threads nicer.

**Non Printed Parts**
None of these links are affiliate links, just posting examples of the items I used for simplicity. 

-  [Vacuum Pump](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WS97JWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - This is the exact pump I am currently using.  Something 5CFM or stronger would probably be better, but as I was just testing this out I didn't want to spend a ton on an expensive pump in case this ended up not working at all.

 - [ 1/4" NPT quick connect fittings](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V27QXZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) - These will be used to connect the hose between the vacuum pump and the vacuum pad.

- [1/4" OD hose](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPZLV6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) - Used to connect the vacuum pump to the vacuum pad.

- [3mm Diameter Foam Rubber Gasket Material](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNG9VB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) - This is the exact material I have been using. This slots into the groove on the vacuum pad to help form a seal between your workpiece/spoilboard and the pad. I also tried using O-Ring material but found it was too rigid and did not compress enough to form a good seal.

**Assembly**

- First you will need to install the gasket in the groove on top of the vacuum pad. I did this by laying a thin layer of CA glue in the groove and gently pressing the gasket in to place. I found it easiest to work in sections to avoid a glue mess. Be careful not to stretch the gasket when applying it, and to keep glue off the top of the gasket which can make sections of the gasket become rigid and more difficult to seal against.
- Next simply glue the air adapter into the hole on the bottom of the gasket.
- Finally thread a quick connect adapter into the air adapter once you have given the glue some time to set. It won't neccisarily need to screw in all the way. It should thread pretty easily at first and you will feel it start to get tighter. Just get it nice and snug.

**Through Cutting**

Doing through cuts on a vacuum table can be tricky because if you place a piece directly on the vacuum pad, as soon as you cut through the workpiece you will break the seal and lose the vacuum. There is a way around this however which involves using a thin spoilboard with its own gasket on top. You can see an example of this strategy used [here](https://airweights.com/products/tile-gasket-24x24) as part of the Air Weights system.

I made my own version of this using simple tool drawer liner available at your local big box hardware store and some super 77 spray adhesive which you can see in some of the pictures below. The basic steps are as follows:

- Start with a piece of slightly greater than 1/4" MDF. I made this by resawing 3/4" mdf in half on my bandsaw, but you would probably be fine starting with 1/2" MDF as well.
- Surfaced one side of the mdf with my jointer. From what I have read, you want to remove a thin top layer from the MDF to really expose the pores in the material. You could also just do this on your CNC.
- Place the MDF on the vacuum table, engage the vacuum and surface the spoilboard. I have done cuts without this step, but I noticed an overall improvement in accuracy when this spoilboard was surfaced before adding the gasket.
- Ideally you end up with a spoilboard that is around 1/4" thick. I had varrying results with boards at different thicknesses, but 1/4" always seemed solid.
- Using a leather hole punch, I dropped a bunch of 1/4" holes roughly 1/4" or so apart into the tool drawer liner.
- Attach the liner to the mdf spoilboard with super 77 spray adhesive. Spray the liner, not the MDF so you dont clog up the areas where your holes are exposing the vacuum.

**Tips on Cutting with Vacuum Holding**

- Each part that you cut out completely reduces the overall hold you have on the workpiece.
- If you have several parts to cut out of one piece of stock, cut each part out most of the way through, leaving half a millimeter or so of material. Then do a final pass on each piece. This should greatly reduce the force you are applying to your workpiece and increase the chances that your piece holds.
- Try to just barely touch the gasket on your spoilboard when cutting all the way through. This will help increase the life of your spoilboards. 

CNC Vacuum Work Holding Pad

vacuum-pad.stl

This is a remix of the bottom portion of the toe clamp designed by DrDflo [here.](https://thangs.com/designer/DrDflo/3d-model/Low%20Profile%20Toe%20Clamp%20for%20CNC%20Router%20%28Heat-Set%20Insert%20Version%29-17810) This version allows slotting up to a 5/16" bolt through the clamp for use on T-Track.

 T-Track Bottom for Low Profile Toe Clamp 

Stubber-Clamp-Bottom-V2-T-Track-Remix.stl

Stubber-Clamp-Bottom-V2-T-Track-Remix-Long.stl

Holder for 3 2/3in x 9in (9.29cm x 22.8cm) sandpaper sheets commonly found in hardware stores. Holds ~16 sheets per bin. 

This model is slightly too large to fit on the prusa sized bed, so I have included a split version which can be printed twice to make the full bin.

Gridfinitity Sanding Sheet Holder

gridfinity-sanding-sheet-holder.stl

Holds 5 inch diameter sanding discs used for random orbital sanders.

Gridfinity Sanding Disc Holder

A set of racks of that can be placed in a line inside a gridfinity grid to sort longer items without having to print a giant divider bin. The length is in theory infinite since you just drop the racks wherever you need them in your layout.

There are two heights available, each with a single compartment or two compartments. 

Optional starter blocks can be used which have a space for a printed label and give your items something to bump up against so they don't get too unwieldy. 

Gridfinity Infinite Length Storage Racks

storage-rack-center-divided-tall.stl

**URRRNN!!!**

This is a 2x2 storage bin great for when you really want to slam things down onto your Gridfinity baseplates.

Thwomps can be stacked onto other Thwomps and can even wear other Gridfinity items like a hat.

**Versions**
The basic Thwomp is a simple box. There is an optional insert for this version which makes storing longer items like pens/pencils/markers a bit easier.

There is additionally a Thwomp with a filleted edge similar to standard Gridfinity divider bins to help make it easier to retrieve items inside.

**Print Settings**
I got the best results on my setup using a .1 layer height with supports for Thwomp's face.

**Disclaimer**
Thwomp's face extends beyond the normal demensions of a 2x2 Gridfinity item. As such, Thwomp will work best if its placed at the front of your baseplate. Not sure why you would want to risk Thwomp's anger by covering it up anyway.

Gridfinity Thwomp Storage Bin

thwomp.stl

These single block holders are designed to hold a single router bit with a spot for a label.

There is a model available for 1/4", 1/2" and 8mm shank router bits.

I am not a woodworker and don't use my router bits often, so I found it worthwhile to sacrifice a bit of storage density to be able to easily identify each bit.

If you are better than I am at identifying bits at a glance, and would prefer something that stores more bits in less space, take a look at [this router bit caddy](https://thangs.com/designer/Zwierzak%252C%2520Does%2520a%2520Thing/3d-model/Gridfinity%2520Router%2520Bit%2520Caddy.stl-66298) by [Zwierzak](https://thangs.com/designer/Zwierzak%2C%20Does%20a%20Thing)

Gridfinity Router Bit Holder

This single block holder is designed to hold a single 1/4inch shank router bit with a spot for a label.

As I am not a woodworker and don't use my router bits often, I found it worthwhile to sacrifice a bit of storage density to be able to easily identify each bit.

gridfinity-router-bit-holder-1_2.stl

gridfinity-router-bit-holder-8mm.stl

These holders are designed to fit hex shank spade bits. The spacing between each slot in the trays is generic so as to try and fit a wide variety of sizes that you may have, rather than conforming to a specific set.

The six bit tray has tighter spacing between bits. Larger bits can be placed by skipping a slot, but I have also found that some small overlap doesnt make it difficult to retrieve bits.

The 4 bit holder has larger and more varied spacing between bits, making it ideal for larger bits greater than an inch wide.

Gridfinity Spade Bit Holder

gridfinity-6-spade-bit-holder.stl

Holds the razor blades used for utility knives, boxcutters etc. I found it easiest to load blades a couple at a time so as to not get all cut up.

Two versions are available:

A 1x2 block which holds about 50 blades.

A 1x3 block which hold about 100 blades.

Gridfinity Utility Knife Razor Blade Holder

gridfinity-razor-blade-holder.stl

A series of holders for 18 gauge brad nails.

Current sizes are:
5/8 inches
1 inch
1 1/4 inches
1 1/2 inches
1 3/4 inches
2 inches

I found it easiest to load the nails one or two strips at a time rather than trying to shove in the whole pack.

Gridfinity Brad Nail Holders

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-1_0_0inch.stl

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-1_1_2inch.stl

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-1_1_4inch.stl

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-1_3_4inch.stl

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-2inch.stl

gridfinity-18ga-brad-nail-0_5_8inch.stl

A set of holders for storing hex shank drill bits horizontally so that their sizing labels are visible.

Holders are currently designed to hold bits with a 1/4 (6mm) shank.

There are currently two holders available:

2x2 for storing six smaller bits
2x3 for storing four larger bits up to about 1/2 inch in size.

Holders are stackable depending on the size of bit being stored.

Gridfinity Hex Shank Drill Bit Holder

hex-shank-bit-tray-small.stl

A 2x3 stackable Gridfinity tray for holding driver bits horizontally in spaces where vertical storage is limited. Originally designed around a set of Milwaukee bits about 50mm in length, but should work with most driver bits up to 55mm in length.

To retrieve a bit simply push down on the end over the small divet in the tray to raise up the other end and remove it.

Gridfinity Driver Bit Tray

A 2x3 stackable Gridfinity tray for holding driver bits horizontally in spaces where vertical storage is limited.

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