Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5245836.

Just a simple holder, with Med Command strip

Dawn Dish Soap 3M Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3512833.

The tray that comes with dry erase boards cause markers to drop everywhere as soon as you want to have more than 2 color options. 

Doesn't require any supports, could be printed shorter and still function just as well, so that's more aesthetics on how you want it to look.

For mounting markers are light enough that 2 or 3 wall strips seem to have held it up for over a year.

Dry Erase Board Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5246210.

I wanted a way to charge the trackers, off the desk and without taking off the straps. Unlike a previous Vive tracker, there isn't a good way to "hold" onto the tracker if the bottom has something attached. So the USB port provides that mounting solution. The plastic here is just a guide to help me find the usb port. I imagine this could also work with magnetic connectors, I've tried to avoid them since I heard they burn out vr controllers sometimes. 

As for the model I wanted something I could print without supports on a prusa mini. Though you might still want some brims if your bead adhesion isn't great. As for the USB, I just used hot glue. Held the tracker in position plugged in a USB and hot glued around it. Kind of messy but figured the hot glue would act as rudimentary suspension. So a misalignment of the usb and the holder, or the weight of the straps pulling on the trackers, the hot glue would take up some of the pressure. 

This is the usb cable I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GY7FBHZ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=dsl07-20&linkId=b1df4c7ccf768937a23a809076241812&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl


Tundra Tracker Wall Charger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3529597.

My conditions were to be as small as possible and be secure. The 3.5 plug type didn't really hold on the well even though I did love the size. The other ones that held are securely were either wide or thick. 

I did print with supports for the nub, Keep in mind you'll need an excato or another extremely small tool to get the support out. I sliced with Slic3r so if you're using cura you may want to make custom support. 

Apple USB-C to 3.5mm Keychain

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948579.

I printed with PETG so it came out a little messy, but I wanted it to stand up to the sun. I gave about an 1mm of wiggle on each side, so even with warping things should fit nicely. What more can I say? It's just a box.

Landwheel Battery Caddie

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3506958.

You can buy the fan I used here:
https://amzn.to/2CuSAPj - Though I did cut the wires and solder them shorter to have less of a mess on my head.

Wanted something that was small and easy to remove. Most other solutions involved attached something to the whole headset but considering the light weight of the fan figured why not just use the USB port to support, it is a full size A after all.

I suppose this could work even if you didn't have the Pro, you would just plug the fan into the usb out on the headset. 

Note. I also turned around the fan grill. Since there's a gap between the fan and the unit it seems to make more sense to blow on it then to suck, so I put the grill on the back to protect getting my fingers nicked. 

Results? after an hour I used to have 80-90C with lots of gray screens and reconnecting. now with the fan on Low I get about 60C which stops all the issue and I can't hear it with the ear cups down even if the game has no audio. Setting to high will drop it down to 40C but you will hear the noise even through the headset. 


HTC Vive Pro Wireless Fan Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2638364.

Because I designed this to attached to a backpack, I would pick a material that can handle some flex, PLA+, PLA Pro, PETG, ABS, Standard PLA may snap considering all the pulling and flexing of the object.

I use bungees, but you can also use just basic office rubber bands too. 

Anker Sport XL Molle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5237609.

One of my first designs, Isn't the best but has been doing the job for years. Wanted a way to ceiling mount the nest speakers to clean up counter space and get the speakers more at ear level so they sound better throughout the place. This does mount them upside down (as it seemed the most secure way and made the cable runs easier) so your volume left and right will be backwards, along with the 4 dots. But I don't really interact using the touch on these speakers anyway. I think these holes are built around 3m screws, you might want to drill out for 4m, but mine have held up well. While I did put the head fitting on the underside, unless you have a perfect length bolt it probably will interfere with the mounting surface, so feel free to just flip the bolt and nut around 

Nest Audio Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2648748.

Just bought a new BMPCC because the HDMI broke on the last one. Wanted to make sure that didn't happen again, but didn't want to shell out for a new case. Probably not too useful unless you have:

D Focus Cage
http://amzn.to/2zJahdE

Hdmi Adapter
http://amzn.to/2jtYCco

For the screw I used an old m4 screw I had lying around. It doesn't fit the screw hole actually. I think it's american threaded, but I can get 3 turns out of the screw before it becomes a problem, so I thicken the bracket to have it tight. 

Also build some thickness inbetween the micro hdmi connection, This is because there's a sizeable gap and to prevent the port from braking if it falls onto the hdmi port. 

BMPCC D Focus Cage HDMI Support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5237596.

Needed a way to mount a Z-wave remote to a wall, used 3m strips. 

ZRC-90US BW8510US Remotec holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578639.

Remix of this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453985

Made the head smaller for 30ish mm seperated wire rack. Best printed tall with the flat head on the build plate.I used support from build plate only but the internal ramp is a little too sharp for some printers to make on their own, mine ended up looking pretty bad but still functional. 

Wire shelf hanging spool holder for Filler spool holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5237601.

Needed more space on the peg board, so I mounted the compressed air sticking out, so it used up less vertical space and was easy to get in and out

Wall Control Compressed Air

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4535599.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1626529

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1626529



MegaPro Pegboard Screwdriver

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4752970.

Had some trouble using these lights:

https://www.amazon.com/Amagle-Magnetic-Wireless-Lighting-Batteries/dp/B07NVCJLF5?dchild=1&keywords=magnetic+cabinet+light&qid=1612664031&sr=8-11&linkCode=sl1&tag=dsl07-20&linkId=619508d73c86bbf41cfbf5107ac369b6&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

As the magnet would be too far from the light to properly turn it off. Especially using the provided hook and loop. This tilts it so that for one thing it's better aimed, 2ndly make it's protrude into the frame so it will be closer to the magnet and more reliable. Also makes it a lot easier than the velcro to remove and fill batteries. 

I printed using PLA+ with the small flat part of the back, bedside down. That way I could print it with no support material. Though if you want it strong you should print face down, (or the way the stl is oriented by default) with support material. But at the 45 degree angle I printed at it seems strong enough for me, only time will tell. 

Magnetic Door Sensor Mount

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