Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4393919.

A very nice tool to cut your metal (and wooden) profiles at 90 degrees.

If you are like me, it is a pain to saw straight edges. With this tool it will become much easier.

The saw width is adjustable to guarantee there is no play. The box it self also acts as a vise/vice and secures your part as strong as you want.

To prevent it for fast degeneration the beaks for the sawguides are metal (aluminium or steel, 1.5 or 2 mm thickness). Along with the ability to replace these metal parts, it will significantly extend the lifespan of the tool.

Adjusting the width of the beak:
Assemble the two blocks with the four bolts, place your hacksaw in the beak and move the blocks so that your saw is just not stuck. Tighten the bolts securely. Try the saw from top to bottom.

What is the maximum width of your object/profile?
That is up to you: If you use 80 mm long threaded rods the maximum net width will be around 20 mm (which is also the minimum width). Every extra length over the 80 mm will extend the possible width with that same length.
If your workpiece is narrower than 20 millimetres, use something to fill that width. Calibration cubes are ideal for this. Be aware that the part behind the saw-guide is not clamping (on purpose).

Two versions:
The normal version has a net height of 40 mm and a length of 10 cm for the clamping area (part before the saw-guide). There is also a XL-version with a net height of 50 mm and a length of 13.5 cm.

Extra's:
Table-hook/edge (sorry, don't know the correct translation) to secure the miter-box against the edge of your workbench. If you dont mount the box to your workbench or waste-board with screws or bolts (holes are included) , this extra part will greatly help to keep it stable. Usable on both sides.

Stop-block. If you mount the miter-box and this stopblock directly to a board or workbench, you have a fixed length.

Well the pictures will explain more then words, so take a look at them. Also read the print settings and Post-printing sections.

Happy sawing :)


Look for more tools and the like here: https://www.thingiverse.com/Coat/collections/coats-toolbox


Make 90 degree cuts with clamping Miter Box, adjustable saw width

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4569306.

A simple to print and to use safety-cover for the Fotek (clone)-SSR. 
It clamps itself firmly in place.

The SSR's I have are clones of the real Fotek-ssr. There are many different clones of it and I assume also with different sizes. This cap is for ca. 58x44-45. 

Happy relaying :)



SSR-cover 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601221.

A simple holder for your long stuff. Use a few so you can store different lengths.
If you regularly kick in a pile of metal profiles in the middle of the night, then you need these :).
Dimensions are 145 mm at the screw-side and 120mm at the other side.


Happy storing :)




Look for more tools and the like here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/Coat/collections/coats-toolbox


Vertical storage rack for profiles

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4507781.

**Update 4 nov 2020: There was a little ridge at the bottom of the original holders. Use v2 for download and print.** In the current state of TV I did't remove the first version because of the previews (it is not likely they will be added for version 2) . Thanks to Hairyfacedhooman for mentioning it 

---

Holder for offline controller and tools CNC 3018

A holder for the offline controller and wrenches that comes with some cnc 3018 (pro).

The controller and wrenches are hold in place with a simple builtin springsystem.

The holder comes in 3 versions: wrenches right, left or no wrenches,

Happy printing and routing :)



Holder for offline controller and tools CNC 3018

A rack for a Micro-ATX board.

Perfect fit for my Asus B550m motherboard.

Since I had a little trouble to find the exact measurements for the holes, a table with these and a DXF with the holes can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5155837 or copy paste the values at the bottom of the description.

Happy modding :)




Measurements holes Micro-ATX board					
Backside / IO-panel facing Up					
Offset X from left side board to center most-left hole = 0.55” / 13.97 mm					
Offset Y from bottom side board to center most-bottom hole = 0.25” / 6.35 mm					
Bottom-left of the board is at 0,0					
					
hole	X-inch	Y-inch	X-mm	Y-mm	
1	3.15	0.25	80.01	6.35	
2	9.35	0.25	237.49	6.35	
3	0.55	3.1	13.97	78.74	
4	3.15	3.1	80.01	78.74	
5	9.35	3.1	237.49	78.74	
6	9.35	8.3	237.49	210.82	
7	1.35	9.2	34.29	233.68	Datum
8	3.15	9.2	80.01	233.68	
9	1.35	3.1	34.29	78.74	Not used on my MB


Micro-ATX rack and measurements

A rack for a Micro-ATX board.

Perfect fit for my Asus B550m motherboard.

Since I had a little trouble to find the exact measurements for the holes, a table with these and a DXF with the holes can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5155837 or copy paste the values at the bottom of the description.

Happy modding :)


Measurements holes Micro-ATX board					
Backside / IO-panel facing Up					
Offset X from left side board to center most-left hole = 0.55” / 13.97 mm					
Offset Y from bottom side board to center most-bottom hole = 0.25” / 6.35 mm					
Bottom-left of the board is at 0,0					
					
hole	X-inch	Y-inch	X-mm	Y-mm	
1	3.15	0.25	80.01	6.35	
2	9.35	0.25	237.49	6.35	
3	0.55	3.1	13.97	78.74	
4	3.15	3.1	80.01	78.74	
5	9.35	3.1	237.49	78.74	
6	9.35	8.3	237.49	210.82	
7	1.35	9.2	34.29	233.68	Datum
8	3.15	9.2	80.01	233.68	
9	1.35	3.1	34.29	78.74	Not used on my MB


All the credits for this great model goes to Reno77. This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2502026
If you just want the model or a cup, look there.

The Piggybank is a little bigger (150 mm), hollowed (wall 2.4 mm), coin-slot  (35x3.5) and a threaded opening (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3383689) at the bottom are added. 

Supports at the outside are needed. The roof is already supported with a dome inside.
The bottom in this version is also rounded inside to prevent the visible layerline at the bottom you see in the photo's. A new photo is added of a second print of the model as presented here where that annoying layerline is missing.

Happy Saving.

Squidwards piggybank

All the credits for this great model goes to Reno77. This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2502026
If you just want the model or a cup, look there.

The Piggybank is a little bigger (150 mm), hollowed (wall 2.4 mm), coin-slot  (35x3.5) and a threaded opening (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3383689) at the bottom are added. 

Supports at the outside are needed. The roof is already supported with a dome inside.

Happy Saving.

If you regularly move your laser-engraver, it can be a good idea to park or secure the laserhead from sliding around. I designed this for my Atomstack A5 Pro* and it fits great. This is no guarantee it fits yours either and maybe you have to adjust it a little by filing or in worst case adjust the model. STP-file is included.

https://youtu.be/_F4YhfTFliI

Happy lasering :)

*According to an owner of an A5 20W it also fits that machine.

ASA5p_ParkLaserClamp6.stl

If you regularly move your laser-engraver, it can be a good idea to park or secure the laserhead from sliding around. I designed this for my Atomstack A5 Pro and it fits great. This is no guarantee it fits yours either and maybe you have to adjust it a little by filing or in worst case adjust the model. STP-file is included.

https://youtu.be/_F4YhfTFliI

ASA5p_ParkLaserClamp6.stp

Holder for Darfon e-bike charger.

It is not a beauty, but it is easy and functional. The charger will sit sturdy but is also easy to remove.
The hooks are a little angled to give more room for the cables but keep it as flat as possible.

Dimensions of the charger ca. 174x75x34 mm (6.85x2.95x1.34 inch).

Happy charging :)

Step-file: https://thangs.com/Coat/-Darfon-charger-wall-mount-25393


 Darfon charger wall mount

Holder for Darfon e-bike charger.

It is not a beauty, but it is easy and functional. The charger will sit sturdy but is also easy to remove.
The hooks are a little angled to give more room for the cables but keep it as flat as possible.

Dimensions of the charger ca. 174x75x34 mm (6.85x2.95x1.34 inch).

Happy charging :)

chargerholder_Darfon4.stl

Holder for Darfon e-bike charger.

It is not a beauty, but it is easy and functional. The charger will sit sturdy but is also easy to remove.
The hooks are a little angled to give more room for the cables but keep it as flat as possible.

Dimensions of the charger ca. 174x75x34 mm (6.85x2.95x1.34 inch).

Happy charging :)

STL-file: https://thangs.com/Coat/-Darfon-charger-wall-mount-25394


A PSU-mount for the Atomstack A5 Pro laser engraver. I assume it also fits on the non pro.
Makes it a little easier to put it aside.
PSU-dimensions are ca. 113x50x33.
Mount it with some short M4-bolts and T-nuts. Check if it fits before mounting. You have to bent it open to place the psu inside the mount. Print it as it is placed in the stl. 1.2 mm walls will work, 15% infill. PLA worked fine for me.

Happy lasering :)

 Atomstack A5 Pro PSU-mount (STL)

psuholder1.stl

 Atomstack A5 Pro PSU-mount (step)

 Atomstack A5 Pro PSU-mount

A quick hinge for small and light doors.
I use it for the acrylic door of my enclosed printer. The door is easily removed and reattached. A spacer is included if necessary.
Distance holes is 25 mm in both directions, thickness spacer is 4.5 mm but you can easily adjust that.

Stl-file can be found here: https://thangs.com/Coat/Quick_Hinge2stl-15938

Happy hinging :)

Quick_Hinge2.stp

A quick hinge for small and light doors.
I use it for the acrylic door of my enclosed printer. The door is easily removed and reattached. A spacer is included if necessary.
Distance holes is 25 mm in both directions, thickness spacer is 4.5 mm but you can easily adjust that in your slicer.

Happy hinging :)

A quick hinge for small and light doors.
I use it for the acrylic door of my enclosed printer. The door is easily removed and reattached. A spacer is included if necessary.
Distance holes is 25 mm in both directions, thickness spacer is 4.5 mm but you can easily adjust that in your slicer.

Stp-file can be found here: https://thangs.com/Coat/Quick_Hinge2stp-15939


Happy hinging :)



Quick_Hinge2.stl

A quick hinge for small and light doors.
I use it for the acrylic door of my enclosed printer. The door is easily removed and reattached. A spacer is included if necessary.
Distance holes is 25 mm in both directions, thickness spacer is 4.5 mm but you can easily adjust that in your slicer.

Happy hinging :)



First of all: all the credits for this beautiful model goes to ET-Huang (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:144668) and Julien_DaCosta (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493386, who remixed it for no overhang).

In a attempt to increase my skills in Meshmixer and 3d-Builder* I remixed the statue of ET-Huang / Julian DaCosta to a piggy bank. I created the used fill-opening with screw-cap some time ago .(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3383689).

The model is 200 mm high. The wall thickness is 3 mm, except for the bottom where it is 18 mm to make it flat with the fill opening. The vertical opening at the top is 35x3.5 mm.

Published it earlier on Thingiverse, you can find some beautiful makes there: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952978

Happy saving :)

*Although I was able to create this thing in both programs, the result of the Hollow-function in Meshmixer was a lot better. On the other hand i had to repair that stl in 3d-builder before it successfully sliced (slic3r). 3d Builder turns out to be a very good STL-repair-tool.



moai_piggybank3_cap.stl

First of all: all the credits for this beautiful model goes to ET-Huang (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:144668) and Julien_DaCosta (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493386, who remixed it for no overhang).

In a attempt to increase my skills in Meshmixer and 3d-Builder* I remixed the statue of ET-Huang / Julian DaCosta to a piggy bank. I created the used fill-opening with screw-cap some time ago .(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3383689).

The model is 200 mm high. The wall thickness is 3 mm, except for the bottom where it is 18 mm to make it flat with the fill opening. The vertical opening at the top is 35x3.5 mm.

Published it earlier on Thingiverse, you can find some beutiful makes there: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952978

Happy saving :)

*Although I was able to create this thing in both programs, the result of the Hollow-function in Meshmixer was a lot better (see picture). On the other hand i had to repair that stl in 3d-builder before it successfully sliced (slic3r). 3d Builder turns out to be a very good STL-repair-tool.



A mount or adapter for your Z-motor on the Dremel-CNC of Nikodem Bartnik. Two plates with 4 M5 bolts and a couple of nuts and rings.
The bottom-plate is fastened on the original holes for the motor.
By removing the thicker part on the bottom plate you can also use it for other axis's on other (homebrew) machines.

The two plates must be connected with 4 M5 Hex_bolts, and one nut for the bottomplate and two nuts for the top-one.

The wheel for manual adjusting is pressfitted (or glued) around a solid coupler (the blue ones, 14mm). The holes in the side of the wheel must be aligned with the grub-screws. You can also use M3-screws instead of the small grub-screws.
It fits with a 500w-Spindle and its aluminum bracket.



z_motormount_dremelCNC.stp

A mount or adapter for your Z-motor on the Dremel-CNC of Nikodem Bartnik. Two plates with 4 M5 bolts and a couple of nuts and rings.
The bottom-plate is fastened on the original holes for the motor.
By removing the thicker part on the bottom plate you can also use it for other axis's on other (homebrew) machines.

The wheel for manual adjusting is pressfitted (or glued) around a solid coupler (the blue ones). The holes in the side of the wheel must be aligned with the grub-screws. You can also use M3-screws instead of the small grub-screws.
It fits with a 500w-Spindle and its aluminum bracket.

By removing the thicker part on the bottom plate you can also use it for other axis's on other (homebrew) machines.

Wall mount for the Makita vacuum cleaners DCL 180/181/and i assume 140/141/182/281/282. In other parts of the world also known as XLC
Different from other wall-mounts this one grips the body higher , just under the motor part.
Makes it more stable and secure. The mount follows the curves of the body and has a good fit.

I am not sure it will fit on other models then the 181 (I don't have them), but if the outer diameter of the top of the unscrewed dust part is something like 113mm, it will most likely fit.

Happy vacuuming:)

Makita_DCL_wallmount_nl.stl

Wall mount for the Makita vacuum cleaners DCL 180/181/and i assume 182/140/141.
Different from other wall-mounts this one grabs higher , just under the motor part.
Makes it more stable. The mount follows the curves of the body.
I am not sure it will fit on other models then the 181 (I don't have them), but if the outer diameter of the unscrewed top of the dust part is something like 113mm, it will fit.

A simple thingy that let your old and trusty Makita 3620 breathe when placed on a router lift.The router will be raised by 1 cm.

Happy routing :)

makita3620_routerlift_spacer.stl

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