This is a simple sandpaper organizer designed to hold 1/4 sections of 8.5x11" sandpaper sheets (so, cut down the middle both ways). Each section has a vertical storage section as well for those that use thin strips as frequently as I do.

The front panel has three 2.7mm holes for engraving pen tool shanks, and three 3.2mm holes for standard Dremel bit shanks.

Sandpaper Organizer with Engraving and Dremel Shank Storage

A threaded stock for a bellows blowpipe. Simply cut a hole in your pipe bag the width of the threaded section, and from inside screw the internal locker onto the stock. Then, the valve assembly screws onto the stock, and an alignment ring helps glue on the hose connection straight. This is printed separately to avoid having to print a tall, skinny and top-heavy part.

Usually this design would include a pair of O-rings, but in this case I just smeared some liquid gasket maker on the top of each part, allowed it to cure, and then assembled. You will need a small circle of rubber, silicone, or leather for the flexible portion of the center valve.

Blowpipe Threaded Stock

Stock.stl

A standard G border pipe; works with Jon Swayne's reed design.

G Flemish Border pipe, sectioned under 180mm

Body1.3mf

A copy of a known 1860s model of conical (aka "Irish") flute, sectioned for testing different embouchures. Three different historical embouchures are provided, with a cover to be sanded flush with the surface of the part - this is to ensure a sharp edge on the outer surface of the embouchure, which can't really be achieved with FDM printing.

Rudall & Rose #5501

upper main.stl

A medieval bagpipe largely reconstructed from iconography; related to the modern French boha. Reedbodies coming soon!

Medieval Musa

MusaMedieval.STL

This is a bagpipe chanter utilizing a membrane reed.

Print all the parts in vertical orientation with supports (except for the outer chamber, as it's easy to jam up the threads. If your printer struggles with bridging, my trick for support removal was to insert an open scissors into either side of the section and "unscrew" the supports by twisting counterclockwise).

Wrap PTFE tape around the threads and verify an airtight connection. Alternately, you can try packing the grove where the outer chamber sits with heavy instrument grease (chapstick works great) which may also form an airtight seal. 

Screw the outer chamber onto the inner until the outer and inner cylinders are flush with one another (doing this against a mirror, countertop, or ideally granite surface plate helps), and use 400 grit sandpaper with a splash of water to ensure evenness. Check the evenness is airtight by sucking on the air inlet while pressed against the surface, covering the body tube section with a finger.

To make the membrane, many different materials are possible and produce different tones and performance. At the time of writing my favorite material is mylar emergency blanket material, which is what this design is optimized for. Cut a square or circle of material larger than the outer chamber and use the tension ring to attach it to the outer chamber. You want a smooth surface with no wrinkles, but NOT an overly tight "drum." This can take a few tries, but you can even out wrinkles by holding the tension ring and pulling the excess mylar side-to-side.

Next, trim the mylar to size, again while still holding the tension ring in place! When you have a clean attachment with ~2mm of overhanging mylar, put the onion dome on. This will conceal the excess mylar and protect the membrane. Finally, set the initial tension by slowly screwing the outer cylinder against the inner while blowing through the air intake. When you begin to hear a sound, stop, and put the body tube in (to be included soon - currently I am using garden pipe - see image).

Tune the pipe against itself by checking the octave (second-to-lowest note and highest note). If the octave is flat, the membrane needs tightening. If the octave is sharp, the membrane needs loosening. Then, tune the pipe to a tuner by moving the body tube in and out of the inner chamber's tenon.

Membrane Reed Bagpipe Chanter

Inner.stl

Cheap bore gauges tend to need quite a bit of force to lock, during which time it's easy to shift the measurement point. This stopper uses a 4mm nominal bolt to fasten to any gauge with a 4.6mm shaft.

Bore Gauge Stopper

I am a musician and researcher seeking to make both historical and modern-traditional instruments more accessible to everyday people, with the end goal of having an extensive 3D-printable instrument library, with documentation on each piece as well as recommendations and guidelines for building and playing them!

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

<div class="markdown"><p>I am a musician and researcher seeking to make both historical and modern-traditional instruments more accessible to everyday people, with the end goal of having an extensive 3D-printable instrument library, with documentation on each piece as well as recommendations and guidelines for building and playing them!</p></div>

Barter Loch Woodwinds