I remixed this direct drive adapter for my Ender 3 V2 from this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787846
I added some extras to fit my printer better:
- cable guide + ziptie bracet
- some structural braces
- small cutout for extruder wheel

Length fits a Satsana or stock fan housing

Direct Drive adapter v12.stl

I remixed this direct drive adapter for my Ender 3 V2 from this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787846
I added some extras to fit my printer better:
- cable guide + ziptie bracet
- some structural braces
- small cutout for extruder wheel

Length fits a briss fang with 4020 fan ontop.

I remixed this direct drive adapter for my Ender 3 V2 from this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787846
I added some extras to fit my printer better:

- cable guide + ziptie bracet
- some structural braces
- small cutout for extruder wheel

Length fits any fan housing, i made it for briss moto mit 4020 fan.
you need to print it with the supportbraces down and use treesupport. after that yo press the spacers from the xcarriage into the rould holes until they ar flush with the front. 

Direct Drive adapter long v2.stl

I remixed this direct drive adapter for my Ender 3 V2 from this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787846
I added some extras to fit my printer better:

- cable guide + ziptie bracet
- some structural braces
- small cutout for extruder wheel

Length fits any fan housing, i made it for briss moto mit 4020 fan.

Made this a full size version from my original that is also here on Thangs.
Minimal supports needed. I block the nut recessed areas, they don't need support but the slicer will want to put them there.
I included some pics of the blockers and the supports form Cura.
Printed with .2mm layers.
Recommend 1.2 mm walls and top, I went with 3mm on the bottom, this gave it a nice rigidity for the belt grooves. 
Pop in the M3 nuts after printing and secure them in place with a screw before installing on the printer, this will seat them well and let you know if you have an issue.
All the holes are in the same locations as the MS metal version, so attachments like CR or BL touch can be added without any issues, as well as fan shrouds.
I flipped the hook on the right for the wiring (ender 5 MS plate has this), it made more sense to me the way I have it.
You still need the Micro Swiss extruder hardware for this to work, if switching from rollers to linear rails and you already have a MS DD extruder, then this is perfect for you.
Pica aren't the best but you get the idea.


MS DD Linear rail mount for Creality / Ender printers

Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R5015 fans shroud for the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Cr10 / Ender3 series.

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 5015 B3 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Cr10 / Ender3 Base plate onto the Ender series with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 5015 fan
(1x radial 4020 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Micro-Swiss-Enders Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Ender-Micro-Swiss-Direct Drive-Fan-Shroud-A4010-R5015-B4

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Butterfly-Fans-Base-A4011-R5015-BL-MS-B4.STL

This STL is a component of the Hero Me Gen7 Printhead assembly for 3D printers.

**Hero Me Gen7 is a modular printhead platform for 3D printers with excellent part cooling and the most compatibility across printers, hotends, extruders, ABLs, and other components.**

 The Hero Me Gen7 is all about choice and personal preference. If you have been upgrading your 3D printer, you've made choices about what is important to you, Your choices are likely going to be different from everyone else. When choosing a hotend, extruder, and ABL combo (not to mention fans and accelerometers), where are you going to find a printhead platform that will accommodate all your selected components (which could be a rare combo), for your specific 3D printer AND provides part cooling that gives you great print results. **This is what the Hero Me Gen7 is all about!**

Think of the Hero Me platform as lego blocks for printheads, there are mounting parts for each component (hotend, extruder, fans, ABLs, etc.) that stack and mount to a core Base. Component specific mounting parts can be interchanged for another of the same type. So, should you change your component selection(s) in the future, you do not have to start over, you simple replace the single STL mount that is matched to the new component. There is no need to yet again go looking for a new set of mounting hardware that was not likely to have been designed to work with each other in the first place.

So to give you choice and fulfill your personal preferences in 3D printing, the Hero Me Gen7.3.2 now supports over 100 3D Printer models (plus clones), 46 Hotends, 34 Extruders (over 45 mount options), 17 ABL Sensors (34 mount options), 35 Part Cooling Duct options, 12 Cable Management options, 11 ADXL345 mounts, and 4 LED bar mounts (among many other options). Gen7.3.2 supports most of the popular 3D printers and components available. 

If you know your 3D printer model, hotend, fans, and optionally an extruder, ABL sensor, ADXL345 accelerometer (for Klipper), and any other options for your printhead assembly, you can scan through the Hero Me Gen7 Release 3.2 folder, or use the Thangs Advanced Search.  Be sure to set the creator filter to: ‘MediaMan3D’ then search for ‘HMG7’ which should bring up all the STLs. You can refine your search from there by component, brand, etc.

If you find that you have a 3D printer model or component that is not yet supported, send me information and preferably a STEP or STL (or link) if you know of one for the X carriage of that printer or the component and I will create a mount for it. Send to: MediaMan3D@gmail.com

If you want Hero Me documentation… The Hero Me Gen7.3.2 folder of STLs on Thangs is organized into sub-folders by component category, with sub—sub-folders for type and brand with well defined filenames to make it easy to find what you need. If you want documentation to help you select and assemble the Hero Me Gen7 for your specific 3D printer, you can get a membership plan here on Thangs.  You will get a detailed 56 page parts selection and illustrated assembly guide along with assembly videos, private Discord server access (with over 2,000 Hero Me users), technical support, and much more, You also get exclusive access to new STL releases 30 days before being posted to Thangs, and other STL libraries. Check out the membership plans here:  [https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d](https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d)

HMG7 Bondtech LGX Rear Mount.stl

Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R4020 fans shroud for the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Ender3-Cr10 series.

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 4020 B3 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Cr10 / Ender3 Base plate onto the Ender series with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 4020 fan
(1x radial 5015 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Micro-Swiss-Enders Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Ender-Direct-Drive-Fan-Shroud-A4010-R4020-B3

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Butterfly-Fans-Base-A4011-R4020-BL-MS-B3.STL

HMG7 EZR Struder Tall Front Mount.stl

HMG7 Bondtech BMG BMG-M Rear Mount V3.stl

HMG7 Bondtech BMG BMG-M Front Mirror Mount.stl

This STL is a component of the Hero Me Gen7 Printhead assembly for 3D printers.

**Hero Me Gen7 is a modular printhead platform for 3D printers with excellent part cooling and the most compatibility across printers, hotends, extruders, ABLs, and other components.**


 The Hero Me Gen7 is all about choice and personal preference. If you have been upgrading your 3D printer, you've made choices about what is important to you, Your choices are likely going to be different from everyone else. When choosing a hotend, extruder, and ABL combo (not to mention fans and accelerometers), where are you going to find a printhead platform that will accommodate all your selected components (which could be a rare combo), for your specific 3D printer AND provides part cooling that gives you great print results. **This is what the Hero Me Gen7 is all about!**


Think of the Hero Me platform as lego blocks for printheads, there are mounting parts for each component (hotend, extruder, fans, ABLs, etc.) that stack and mount to a core Base. Component specific mounting parts can be interchanged for another of the same type. So, should you change your component selection(s) in the future, you do not have to start over, you simple replace the single STL mount that is matched to the new component. There is no need to yet again go looking for a new set of mounting hardware that was not likely to have been designed to work with each other in the first place.


So to give you choice and fulfill your personal preferences in 3D printing, the Hero Me Gen7.3.2 now supports over 100 3D Printer models (plus clones), 46 Hotends, 34 Extruders (over 45 mount options), 17 ABL Sensors (34 mount options), 35 Part Cooling Duct options, 12 Cable Management options, 11 ADXL345 mounts, and 4 LED bar mounts (among many other options). Gen7.3.2 supports most of the popular 3D printers and components available. 


If you know your 3D printer model, hotend, fans, and optionally an extruder, ABL sensor, ADXL345 accelerometer (for Klipper), and any other options for your printhead assembly, you can scan through the Hero Me Gen7 Release 3.2 folder, or use the Thangs Advanced Search.  Be sure to set the creator filter to: ‘MediaMan3D’ then search for ‘HMG7’ which should bring up all the STLs. You can refine your search from there by component, brand, etc.


If you find that you have a 3D printer model or component that is not yet supported, send me information and preferably a STEP or STL (or link) if you know of one for the X carriage of that printer or the component and I will create a mount for it. Send to: MediaMan3D@gmail.com


If you want Hero Me documentation… The Hero Me Gen7.3.2 folder of STLs on Thangs is organized into sub-folders by component category, with sub—sub-folders for type and brand with well defined filenames to make it easy to find what you need. If you want documentation to help you select and assemble the Hero Me Gen7 for your specific 3D printer, you can get a membership plan here on Thangs.  You will get a detailed 56 page parts selection and illustrated assembly guide along with assembly videos, private Discord server access (with over 2,000 Hero Me users), technical support, and much more, You also get exclusive access to new STL releases 30 days before being posted to Thangs, and other STL libraries. Check out the membership plans here:  [https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d](https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d)

HMG7 ADXL345 15.4mm Short horizontal Mount.stl

HMG7.2 Sovol SV01 Stock Mount.stl

HMG7 E3D-Online Titan Left Mount.stl

HMG7 Bondtech BMG BMG-M Rear Mirror Mount V2.stl

HMG7.2 Phaetus APUS Mount.stl

HMG7 Sherpa Mini Front-Rear Mount.stl

HMG7 Bondtech BMG BMG-M Front Mount.stl

HMG7.2 Orbiter V2.0 Front Mount V3.stl

HMG7.3 Creality Single Gear Rear Mount V3.stl


This started off as a basic project from the Video JJ Shankles did, that was until I found out the original Sherpa Mini Carrier Plates were for V6 or Volcano Linked https://www.printables.com/model/206014-anycubic-mega-s-mk4-x-carriage-mount-for-sherpa-mi & 
https://www.printables.com/model/473644-anycubic-i3-mega-s-sherpa-mini-volcano-extruder-mo , thus this Tinkercad Monstrosity was made.
It works well, has enough clearance and seems to be rigid enough to have no issues, I’ve only run it for 20 hours or so in testing but am loving my Triangle Labs Sherpa Mini and on this plate it works well. Images showing the voltages from the video for reference voltage to get good results.
Images of a quick wiring splice to allow for future mods which is just a JST 2.54mm XH-4A installed in place of stock extruder cable. In my case I left 40mm of stock cable on stock extruder to easily use in another future project.
X Carriage Base Mod - 	https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537449 
Config is on my GIT https://github.com/Tactical-Koala/AnycubicMegaProKlipper
Video discussing steps and some small issue may be coming in future, I’ll update here if I get to it.
BOM
Sherpa Mini Kit – Triangle Labs used in this case
 22g PETG or ABS preferred but works fine in PLA, I’m yet to have a PLA one get soft just went PETG as I had that loaded.
4 x M3 Heatset Inserts
In my case it was 3 x M3 x8mm to install to carrier as per X Carriage Build
2 x M3 x 16mm to install Sherpa Mini to mount.
2 x M3 x 16mm to install Cover plate over Carrier Plate as per standard build
53mm (est) Capricorn tube from Extruder to nozzle and 400mm Capricorn tube as reverse Bowden (not necessary in many configs)
Installation 
Print Carrier plate and all other pieces of X Carriage as wanted, insert all heat set inserts.
Remove old print head and install X carriage as per guide.
Uninstall old extruder, with machine off cut off old extruder plug ideally with a bit of extra length in my case 40mm but anything you can reconnect or solder is worth it. On cable coming from mainboard carefully solder on ensuring heatshrink is on wires the XH-4A or suitable for your kit. Shrinking down heatshrink when finished over connections.
Flip over printer, remove bottom and begin the process of adjusting stepper motor E0 on 0.0.2 Trigolla board. Many Youtube videos on this just be very careful as machine will need to be on during this step. Image taken from JJ Shankles Video on this I went with 0.52V on mine, a small screwdriver and a decent Multimeter is needed for this. https://youtu.be/GHtCsK7zlVs?si=IcIz4Qgw93iqvr9E Video Link of JJ Shankles.
Once voltage is set and you’re happy power down machine and reinstall base.
Install carrier plate and hotend, hotend, coverplate and installed onto carriage before installing Extruder worked best for me. Check Z Height and ensure that Capricorn tube from hotend is snug (Firmly) into the bottom of the extruder. In my case I ran the wires and the reverse Bowden tube roughly at this stage with some quick dirty tidying. Connect Extruder and start up machine.
 If running Klipper I have a base config in my GIT if running Marlin you may have to check extruder direction and potentially swap some pins around to reverse direction. 
Now you’re done with the installation, PID, Esteps (Rotation Distance) and the like will be needed but check the Z Height before doing anything else as it might now be slightly different. 
In slicer I had to change max Z height to 170 but you might be able to push a bit more.


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