This plastic counter part is necessary if you wish to use the original Sprite Heat Sink and tap an M7x1mm thread. Otherwise the fins will bend when taping. (Not recommended to tap original HS due to poor cooling and weak M2 threads. The Starlex Sprite Heat Sink is adapted for improved heat sink cooling and strong locking option)

Counter plastic Sprite Heat Sink.STL

To improve the thermal efficiency of your Creality Sprite Extruder, there is an easy swap Kit from Swiss3Dc.
This upgrade has been designed as a replacement product.
The benefits is High Thermal Efficiency with Conical Nozzle and Zero Tool Heat Set Swap.
3 parts need to be printed prior to install the upgrade.


Creality Sprite Extruder with Starlex Butterfly Mount Upgrade

Starlex Sprite Extruder Nozzle Fan Shroud 4010-V1.STL

Starlex Cr Touch 3mm Spacer.STL

Starlex Sprite HS M4 Nuts Holder.STL

Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R4020 fans shroud for the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Ender3-Cr10 series.

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 4020 B3 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Cr10 / Ender3 Base plate onto the Ender series with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 4020 fan
(1x radial 5015 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Micro-Swiss-Enders Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Ender-Direct-Drive-Fan-Shroud-A4010-R4020-B3

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Butterfly-Fans-Base-A4011-R4020-BL-MS-B3.STL

Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R5015 fans shroud for the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Cr10 / Ender3 series.

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 5015 B3 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the Micro-Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Cr10 / Ender3 Base plate onto the Ender series with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 5015 fan
(1x radial 4020 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Micro-Swiss-Enders Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Ender-Micro-Swiss-Direct Drive-Fan-Shroud-A4010-R5015-B4

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Butterfly-Fans-Base-A4011-R5015-BL-MS-B4.STL

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 5015 B2 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the original Bowden Ender series x gantry with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 5015 fan
(1x radial 4020 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Creality Enders Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R5015 fans shroud

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Cr-Butterfly-Fans-4011-5015-BL-B2.STL

This assembly of 7 parts to print in PLA or PetG usual settings.

Adapting the Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Butterfly 4020 B1 Kit system Zero Tool Fans Shrouds onto the original Bowden Ender series x gantry with 14mm M3 pitch holes.

Except the 2x M3x20 Hex 2.5 provided screws to fix the Heat Sink, it is a Zero Screw No Tool swiss3dc design.

1x original axial 4010/4011 fan
1x radial 4020 fan
(1x radial 5015 fan mount is also available on Thangs swiss3dc)

Only 1 support is necessary where the radial fan is fixed, it can be done with tree support on Cura, or with local spot support on Prusa slicer.

Enjoy this high heat efficiency and tool free change over heat set.

Creality Starlex 22 Butterfly A4010 R4020 fans shroud

Swiss3Dc-Starlex-Cr-Butterfly-Fans-4011-4020-BL-B1.STL

For your new Starlex 22 Twist Zero Tool Hot End upgrade, the necessary STL files are in this folder. Print in PetG or best in ASA with at least 50% infill.

Prusa Swiss3Dc Starlex 22 Twist Hot End Upgrade

Swiss3Dc-Dual-Air-Duct-03-Prusa.STL

**Prusa i3 MK3S & S+** the zero end stop setup is by forcing the X & Y carriage against the frame.

On the Y axis, only the left shaft bearing is abutting against the frame, with the belt in the centre of the bed, it is forcing sideways the whole plate at each startup. By doing this, it slowly bring some play into the bearings and plate increasing noise and play, what all users are facing after printing a few dozen hours.

To improve this excessive force momentum onto the left bearing, adding a buffer on the right bearing to have a flat contact of the Y plate should reduce this unwanted lateral effort on the bearings and plate.

**This easy upgrade only works when installed on a new machine, or revised Y bed bearing axis.**

Size of the bumper - buffer varies from one machine to another. Between two original Prusa machines, I have values for the bumper from 34mm to 36.5mm, check yours! 

One is 44 days print time, and the other one is 7 days print time. Play and noise of the 44 days printer is high and not mechanically pleasant.

Once your bumper installed on the right shaft, the open side facing the roof, pushing the bed all the way back, the bed should not be able to move more on one side than the other. If it does, **check the length of your bumper and adapt it accordingly**.

If there is a way to share modifiable parts, let me know. Otherwise, I've uploaded the drawing dimension for you to draw it at your needed specs.

Prusa-i3-MK3S+ Y Axis right shaft End Stop Bumper 36.2mm upgrade

**Prusa i3 MK3S & S+** the zero end stop setup is by forcing the X & Y carriage against the frame.

On the Y axis, only the left shaft bearing is abutting against the frame, with the belt in the centre of the bed, it is forcing sideways the whole plate at each startup. By doing this, it slowly bring some play into the bearings and plate increasing noise and play, what all users are facing after printing a few dozen hours.

To improve this excessive force onto the left bearing, adding a buffer on the right bearing to have a flat contact of the Y plate should reduce this unwanted lateral effort on the bearings.

This easy upgrade only works when installed on a new machine, or revised Y bed bearing axis.

Size of the bumper varies from one machine to another. Between two original Prusa machines, I have values for the bumper from 34mm to 36.5mm, check yours! 

One is 44 days print time, and the other one is 7 days print time. Play and noise of the 44 days printer is high and not pleasant.

Once your bumper installed, pushing the bed all the way back, the bed should not be able to move more on one side than the other. If it does, **check the length of your bumper and adapt it accordingly**.

Swiss3Dc Prusa-i3-MKS+ Y Axis right shaft Bumper 36.2mm upgrade

With this nozzle extractor assembly, it will make it easier to remove the tapered  Swiss3Dc nozzles and avoid damaging the nozzle tip.
Only 3 different parts, as two of them need to be printed twice.
The hinge (slightly modified, 2mm shorter) should be printed with a 100% infill
Printed with a 0.8mm copper nozzle, 0.64mm layer high, 1.2mm layer width would take a little more than an hour... preferably in PetG.

Swiss3Dc Tapered Nozzle Extractor

Nozzle-Extractor-Assembly-V2 - Swiss3Dc-Nozzle-Extractor-1.STL

The dual air duct revisited for the Starlex system includes an axial 4011 original fan, and 2 original 4010 radial fans for high air flow on each side.

The single air duct revisited for the Starlex system will use only the original fans provided on your printer, space is left to mount your BL touch sensor.

The fan duct slides into a support holding the heat sink.

An axial fan cover to protect the fan blades.

3 printed parts that need no support

Ender3 Starlex Single Air Duct with BL touch space or Dual Air Duct 

With this fan shroud, only original fans are necessary, the 4010 radial, and 4011 axial. This shroud also leave the space to add the BL touch on the left.

Swiss3Dc-Creality-Original-Fans-Shroud-1x.STL

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791834.

This Dual Air Duct is adaptable in many ways. Originally designed for the Ender 3-V2 model, reusing the 4011mm Original Fan for Nozzle cooling. As the original fan is loud, you will probably wish to change it with a quieter one! Many options are available. I like flexibility in designs. Pick up the parts you need.

No tool nor screw needed to mount this Dual Air Duct, either for the fans and the support on the X carriage.

Most Prints are WITHOUT support. I made ithem out of PetG and PLA basic 0.2mm Cura setting but can be probably made with any other material brand.

Designed for 2 40x40mm fans, the Heat Sink Fan and the Nozzle Fan with a wide Dual Air Duct for best air flow and part cooling.

More information on my other similar Thing.

Ender3 Clip Pivot Dual Air Duct, Multi Fans Options, No Screw, No Tool, Easy Access, Rotating!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854052.

Parts in this Dual Air Duct Thing is made for the Swiss3DC Starlex All Metal Hot End No Screw, No Tool Hot End. 

The only different part to adapt the Original Ender3_V2 (same base plate for Ender3; Cr10; Cr10S) Hot End, is to change the Green part shown below, it is called the Spacer 10mm high instead of 9mm. For the fans, it's up to you. Check this Thing for full set of parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791834/

This Dual Air Duct is adaptable in many ways. Originally designed for the Ender 3-V2 model, reusing the 4011mm Original axial Fan as Nozzle cooling. The original fan is loud, you will probably wish to change it with a quieter one and higher performance 4020 axial fan! Many options are available. I like flexibility in designs. Pick up the parts you need and print.

No tool nor screw needed to mount this Dual Air Duct, either for the fans and the support on the X carriage of the Ender3_V2 and same.

Air Duct itself is WITHOUT support. I made it out of PetG and PLA basic 0.2mm Cura setting but can probably be made with any other material brand as it is far enough from the Heat Block. The Dual Air Duct Support, part clipped on the X-Carriage plate and a little clip would need small support.

The stl files are standard parts needed to mount the Dual Air Duct on the X Carriage of an Ender3_V2, Ender3, Cr10, Cr10s... X plate mount. 

Designed for 2 40x40mm fans, one axial, one radial, the Heat Sink Fan and the Nozzle Fan with a wide Dual Air Duct for best air flow and part cooling.

Lowering the power for the Heat Sink Fan makes it quieter. I used a 1K Ohm 10 turns adjustable resistance, as a "tension divider". It works great with no overheating and Heat Sink cool enough for my 12h prints.

The Air Duct Support is clipped to the X Carriage, on the two wheel axis, made for 40mm inter axis wheels and 2.5mm steel plate thickness. There is a hole at the back facing a threaded original hole in the plate, in case you want to secure it. I never did. Tiny support will be needed here, for the wire clipping axis.

Depending on the type of Hot End you have mounted, you can choose the height of the Spacer that will come between the Air Duct Support and the Dual Air Duct, (for the Bowden original Hot End, the 10mm Spacer is needed) Changing this Spacer permits to have the nozzle air flow at the correct height. FYI, Air flow tends to follow the external wall curve, this is where most air "pressure" goes. The air flow will make kind of a V shape, under the Nozzle.

The Dual Air Duct has an internal median wall, to spread the air at the output more evenly. It's output is wide to manage a high air flow with low pressure on the filament and cooled parts. Wide also for multiple Hot End mount, if it needs to be further away from the carriage plate.

Something never seen before, for easy access to the Hot End, the Dual Air Duct is mounted on an axis, lifting it slightly then rotating. It is all what is needed to have a wide access to the hot end. 
Depending on your printer precision, and print quality (flow amount, Stepper motors settings) there can be more or less play in the printed shaft axis, first print 2 of the Sample Shaft Prints. (I might need to adapt the size by 10th of a mm depending on your feedback)

The top 4011mm Fan for the Nozzle is the original Heat Sink Fan, with 32mm inter axis holes. A simple U shaped Clip stl provided will hold it in place. Different Clips Height are available. As the original fan 4011 is a little weak, I have replaced it with a 4020mm fan, 24Volts from SUNON. Update, at low speed = low voltage value 86/255, it tends to stop, quality matters?

Also never seen before, a Special Fan Plate with a V shape mount has been designed for Multiple Heat Sink Fans, it can be any flat Axial Fan, 30 or 40mm fan, most Radial Fans 40x20, 4015, 5020, 5015mm depending on the printed part you have chosen.(50mm fans there are ok with standard Hot End, Nozzle end tip at 72mm from top of the X carriage plate) Insert the Heat Sink Plate part into the V shaped mount. Height is adjustable, little locks will maintain its position. Not all fan options have been designed yet. Check various parts on Thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791834/

I do not have a BL touch, but I have designed the Air Duct Support with a ready to mount BL Touch, adjustable in height. A Eccentric shaft is designed to hold in place the BL touch, at the chosen height.

This is my first share, be indulgent with my concept, light adaptation might be needed depending on your feedback. A TIP is always a nice way to say thank you for the job done.

Swiss3DC Dual Duct No Screw, No Tool

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933902.

This design is a mounting base and wrench for the Starlex-Creality Hot End.

I will facilitate the positioning of the heat block with the heat sink and provide the perfect tightness setting.

It only needs to be done the first time if you receive the kit in spare parts, not already mounted.

Starlex-Creality-Pre-Mounting-Block

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4972046.

This pre locking mechanism is used when changing the Starlex nozzle and heat break tube in the heat block.

As tolerances are tight within the heat break tube and the nozzle, and due to the specific HBT sealing function, more or less pressure can be applied onto the heat break tube, into the nozzle, leading to a light variation in height of the heat break tube.

This printed part will bring easiness for the pre assembly of the hot end to setup the preferred height.

Check gif on Swiss3Dc.com/stl-parts for mounting procedure.

Swiss3Dc Starlex pre-locking mechanism

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860921.

This Thing is for you to check if the Swiss3Dc Starlex new generation high flow all metal hot end can fit your printer, under the Heat Sink, or the Direct Drive with cooling included.

It would be placed 1 or 2mm under the heat sink.

With the longest lever on front at ~45°, you can see the necessary space to rotate the handles.

What could be in the way:

-the BL touch placed on the left for Creality 3D printers makes it a little less rotation space, but still works fine
-the Prusa sensor placed originally on the right does not limit the rotation (as it twists to the left) but in the Prusa case, the Extruder assembly would need to be printed to fit the Starlex hot end. Full STL parts are available for the upgrade here.



Swiss3Dc Starlex Hot End Dimension Test Sample

Passionate in 3D conception, especially when you can develop parts where no tool nor screw are needed.

The Starlex all metal hot end is a nice piece of improvements, much higher thermal efficiency between heat block and nozzle, more than 250% improvement compare to usual threaded nozzles.

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