Draco (Original) - Brawl Stars

Draco -.stl

The first [Rejected Animals](https://www.instagram.com/rejected.animals) model designed for resin printing is Mozz!

About 5.5" tall assembled 

The photographed base was custom modeled by 3D pen, but I've included a simple base with pegs connecting to the feet. Feedback is appreciated, and I will do my best to make any necessary improvements!

[Relevant Video](https://youtu.be/-Gukk_KGTgc)
 

Rejected Animals // Mozz

body.stl

Colt (Original) - Brawl Stars

Colt -.stl

Genio (Original) - Brawl Stars

Genio -.stl

Draco (Only) - Brawl Stars

Draco (Only)-.stl

Lumi (Original) - Brawl Stars

Lumi -.stl

Cordelius (Original) - Brawl Stars

Cordelius -.stl

Amber (Original) - Brawl Stars

Amber -.stl

Gus (Original) - Brawl Stars

Gus -.stl

Grom (Original) - Brawl Stars

Grom -.stl

Gray (Original) - Brawl Stars

Gray -.stl

Print of STG-01 Exor from Medabots. Designed to be an articulated 3d printed model kit. Parts will require super glue to assemble. All joints are intended to be printed in PETG so that they may snap together properly. Arms and Legs are symmetrical for the most part and will require to print two of each for left and right sides. None symmetrical parts will also be labeled with "R" or "L" in their filenames. The model is designed to be color separated. Files are organized in their own folders based on what color filament they are to be printed in. Height of assembled model is approximately 4.0" (101mm) tall at the top of the head.

Exor

Exor_Beige.3mf

Explore the intricacies of 3D design with this detailed, fully articulated model of the "Ghost in the Shell MSDF Type 303 Armoured Suit" available on Thangs.com. This model is inspired by the suit featured in several episodes of the hit series "Ghost in the Shell SAC 1st Gig". The model has been designed to have the same degree of freedom as seen in animated tv series, with the exception of the hands, which are fixed. This 3D model offers intricate details including 20mm Machine Cannon and 40mm Grenade Launcher, fully functional articulation, and therm-optic camo.

Discover a variety of downloadable files including 3MF files in native and generic formats, .STEP files of source objects, and .STL files of posed objects. This includes a standalone 3D model of the gun, as well as a version where the gun is securely attached to the right hand. In addition, you can find multiple renders and animations that showcase the model in various poses and movements.

Our 3D model is produced via solid modelling vector graphics, making it infinitely scalable. Import the provided .STEP files into your slicers to choose the level of detail you desire for your masterpiece. Whether you're a fan of the series or an avid 3D print enthusiast, this 3D model is a must-have addition to your collection. Experience the perfect blend of entertainment and 3D printing with this "Ghost in the Shell MSDF Type 303 Armoured Suit" model on Thangs.com.

MSDF Type 303 Armoured Suit

MSDF Type 303 pose 2.STL

**Detailed, Customisable, and highly posable.**
Whilst this wolf has been inspired by Moro of Princess Mononoke, you can easily switch her twin-tails out for a single one, and repaint her to look like any other species of wolf-like canine!

Choose from a solid tail, a flexible "print in place" tail, or a pair of them!

**Important Information**
If you use the raw STL files, this model requires additional steps before printing can start. Please see below for details.
Raw STL files do not come with paint data; only the Bambu Studio 3MF files have painting data on them, and this 3mf may not open in other slicers.

**SUPPORTS ARE REQUIRED.**
See below for an image showing the ideal support set-up. Auto-supports are safe to use as long as “Touching Buildplate Only” is turned ON.
support-information.png
- You can find an instructions card in pictures and attachments for the model, which will help you set up your own supports should the 3MF be faulty in your slicer, or if you use the raw STLs.
- While the shorter forearms (as seen in my samples) are provided, they are VERY stiff to insert and are not recommended; please use the default ones provided.
- If you find the ball and socket joints too difficult to insert, run them under warm water before trying again; if you force the joints too much they may break.
- The joints will wear out over time and use if printed using PLA filament; I recommend using a more durable filament for this model, such as ABS or even TPU. Silk/Blend PLA is not recommended.
- The larger the model becomes, the heavier it gets. if printing the model or bigger, expect it to be unable to hold some poses without support.
- Do not lower the infill density below 10%; this increases the chances of joints snapping when you insert the ball into the socket.
- Infill pattern does not matter, use whichever pattern suits your taste, though the 3MF patterns are set to “Grid” by default.
- Do not print the model too small; the size I have provided is the safest small size I tested to print it.
See the card in attachments for the easiest method for assembly.
See the range of motion in the video!

-Q&A-
Please see the questions below before asking any in the comments; your answer may be here already.

-I want to sell prints of this model. Is this allowed?-
Not without paying for the right to do so. The fee on this model is for private printing use. If you wish to sell prints of this model, you must subscribe to the “Commercial License" tier of my Patreon and can only sell prints for the period you subscribe for, so if you pay for a month and then cancel, you only have a License for one month. The “Free membership” plans do not cover paid-for models: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/membership

-I want to remix this model. Is this allowed?-
You can only remix this model for private use. You cannot upload your remix or any model you have made that uses any of this model's parts.

-How long does it take to print this model?-
This depends on 4 things; your printer's speed, the model's size, if it uses multiple colours, and if you're printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
My examples are usually printed on a BambuLab X1C.
The wolf takes around 12 to 14 hours to print.
Printing the model as loose parts and assembling it is highly recommended for the full-colour version, as it drastically reduces the number of colour changes and any resulting waste. It also means you don't have to leave your machine running for over 24 hours to make one of these models.

-How large is this model?-
If printed at the provided size it is approximately 16cm long from snout to base of the hips. The tails vary in length by a few cm each, but are around 10cm long.
The model, when standing, is approximately 10cm tall.

-What materials/colours are used in your examples?-
I used PLA filament from various companies.
BambuLab Matte PLA White and Black, PLA Granite. eSun Matte PLA Pink.

-Will it fit on my printer?-
This depends on 2 things; how large your printer is, and if you are printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
Most printers have a print space of 250x250mm and can print this model with almost everything on a single plate.
Tiny printers such as the A1 Mini have a printing space of 180x180mm which can print the model as clusters of parts perfectly fine, though you may be unable to print everything on one plate.

-I'm having issues with adhesion. What would you suggest?-
A majority of adhesion issues are user-end problems and are not associated with the model itself. There are numerous things you can do to troubleshoot your adhesion issues.
First, establish if your printing plate is clean; gently clean it with dish soap and warm water, and dry it with a clean cloth. Try not to touch the surface of the plate, as the natural oils in our skin will contaminate the surface, making it dirty again; hold the plate in the corners or in areas you won't be printing on.
If the plate is clean, and you still have adhesion problems, and you are using a smooth plate, you could try applying glue to it. However, only use glue recommended by your plate's manufacturer.
If the plate surface is damaged in any way, you should consider replacing it; the surface should be free of scratches or deep marks.
Try printing with a brim or levelling your hotbed.
Try a different style of plate; if you used a textured PEI, why not have a go on a smooth plate?
The material you are using might be too wet; dry out your filament before printing with it again, or try another type of material.
If your nozzle is over-extruding, it can “pull” the model from the plate during printing, making it seem like an adhesion issue when in reality, it's an extrusion issue. Ensure your nozzle isn't over-extruding filament.
You may want to investigate if your machine's firmware needs updating, or if there is a known fault with your machine/plate type.
Once all user-end problems have been ruled out as the issue for adhesion, THEN you can ask me to help.

-The model messed up. Can you help?-
I need to know HOW it has “messed up”, and WHERE in the model it has “messed up”, before troubleshooting anything. If you provide no details to me, I can't help you.

-The model broke when I touched it. What happened?-
Anything could have happened, it depends on numerous user-end factors.
Don't “rip” your models from the plate when they are done, even if you saw some YouTuber do it; this guarantees you'll eventually break a model, often a result of putting unnecessary strain on joints/links as you rip the model off the plate. Study proper model removal procedures, such as “flexing” your plate at all four corners to help lift the model from its surface, and gently use a scraper to get under any stubborn parts.
Don't print the model too small; chain links and the socket joints become more delicate the smaller they become.
Don't print using a brittle filament. Whilst I print all my items in PLA and PLA+, and the parts hold up fine, if you want something guaranteed to be stronger I recommend giving ABS a try.
Double-check your printer's layer settings, and ensure the nozzle is clean; it may have skipped a layer, or the nozzle may have had a clog and failed to extrude part of a layer. Bad layer adhesion can cause weak joints/links on all models.
If a socket joint broke when inserting a ball joint, double-check you orientated the socket joints as shown in the pictures. If orientated correctly, and all support material is removed from the ball and socket, the joints shouldn't break.
If you add additional walls to the model it makes the model thicker, resulting in parts fusing or the balls will no longer fit in the sockets. Do not add additional walls.
The infill density must not be set too low, as it will weaken the model. I print mine at no less than 10%.

-Something else went wrong/I have a question that wasn't answered here.-
Read the instructions first if you haven't already, then please provide your issue in the comments. If you require my help, please be clear and precise about what went wrong.
If you have another question, please leave it in the comments and I will do my best to answer it.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Mystical Moro Wolf Toy

balljointed-wolf.3mf

Action FIgure

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Draco (Original) - Brawl Stars

Rejected Animals // Mozz

Colt (Original) - Brawl Stars

Genio (Original) - Brawl Stars

Draco (Only) - Brawl Stars

Lumi (Original) - Brawl Stars

Cordelius (Original) - Brawl Stars

Amber (Original) - Brawl Stars

Gus (Original) - Brawl Stars

Grom (Original) - Brawl Stars

Gray (Original) - Brawl Stars

Exor

MSDF Type 303 Armoured Suit

Articulated Mystical Moro Wolf Toy