Elegoo Centauri Carbon Canvas Relocation & Riser:

Riser Details:

• Accommodates the original glass cover

• Roughly ~100mm high vs the excessively tall Elegoo OEM Cover

• Contains Four pass-thru holes in the rear right corner for the PTFE Tubes

• Requires 8 x PC4-M10 Pneumatic Quick Connector Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F62FZK4R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

• Contains a 45 Degree channel for an LED Strip with channel for LED Strip wire

• LED Strip Used for this build: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHV8ZF4R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Canvas Relocation Details:

• Canvas Dock Plate that connects to the top center screw between the filaments

• Added additional Cable block that assists in holding the Canvas cable to avoid any cable tangling with filaments or spools

• Canvas Slider Plate for dock

• Attaches to the back of the Canvas unit to slide into the dock making it easier to remove the Canvas Unit should it need to be removed (Troubleshooting issues)

LED Bracket Details (Optional & Requires Soldering):

• Bracket replaces the OEM LED Brackets with a JST Connector for LED Light

• Requires Glued in JST Connector

• JST Connector used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6KSMK1Q?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5

Rebuilt Riser general design via FreeCad, inspired by the "Elegoo Centauri Carbon - Top Plate Riser" by @3DPrintStuff on Printables.com

Please Note The Following:

LED Light: Please take a lot of caution if you attempt to wire up / solder. You can risk hurting yourself / others or wiring incorrectly and destroying the printer.

• De-solder the old LED light

• Solder the new Cable to the new LED light, Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative

• Solder the exiting LED light cable to the bracket (Make note of which pin will be positive and which will be negative)

• Bracket screws in using the old M3 screws it had

PTFE Tube(s)

I had left over tubes from another printer which I used. You may need to purchase some for the exterior of the printer.

• The Canvas PTFE Tubes I had to cut about 150mm to 180mm off the ends - If left too long, it may tangle and coil - What I did was move the print head to the opposite corner and measured where to cut so it's loose enough to have the filament flow but short enough that it doesn't have excess slack.
• When inserting PTFE Tubes, they should meet in the middle and touch so the filament doesnt get stuck anywhere.

Questions: Please feel free to reach out and ask. More than happy to answer what I can.

Printing: All parts in photos printed on an Elegoo Centauri Carbon in PETG at .20mm, 250 Degree Nozzle, 70 Degree Bed, Supports Normal / Snug with .4mm top and bottom Z distance.