A practical hood for the surface book 2/3 to shade the cameras. useful (for me) since i have my pc in front of the window

Surface Book Camera Hood

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4244383.

Some of my modifications to the excellent mask:

1) mask with more holes for heavier filters, i found out that i couldn't breathe through the vacuum cleaner bag filter with so small a surface as the original. Doesn't need an internal grid, the filter is locked between cap and mask.

2) slim cap with matching holes, great if you have a slim layer filter, like vacuum bags to lock in place

3) deeper cap for sponge type filters, with big opening too

4) a bayonet connector, tested with some proper commercial 3M filters, it connects properly

5) Cap with bayonet connector, you can use this with industrial commercial filters if you have those without the need to mod them. This makes the mask more useful. Tested with 3M P3 round filters

6) Cap with Bayonet connector, scaled 90% (ofc the bayonet had to stay the same) for smaller faces.

7) A small three holes buckle to tie the mask. We use 5mm wide elastic band for home diy and sewing, you can find that in almost any supermarket.

**The bayonet cap needs to be printed with supports**


COVID-19 mask with larger area, bayonet connector and more.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4260819.

A replacement filament cooler for the FLSUN Q5. 
I made this to better cool the extruded filament to improve bridging.
I print these without any support material.

V2 - smaller straight air outlet~2mm by 24mm
V3 - bigger outlet 3mm by 24mm and directional fins.
V4 - bigger outlet, simpler fins for easier print without supports

After some iterations i improved the original design:

V7: narrower and more directed flow, concentrates on the tip
V8: like V7, aiming 10 degrees lower. 

And a shorter version

V9: Shorter version of V8, if V8 hits the piece, V9 is your cooling duct.


Hope this is useful !

FLSun Q5 Better Filament Cooler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4486070.

The Pear of Anguish was a medieval torture device to punish sinners of various kinds. It's practically a pear shaped device that gets inserted into people's orifices and by the turning of the base screw, expands the 4 leaves tearing and breaking the poor sinner.

I am not responsible for any physical damages you might incur.

Requires 4x M3 screws

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pear_of_anguish

The Pear of Anguish

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4504754.

Since i have a lack shelf over the place where i keep my 3D Printer and i really hate to add weight to the top of my printer (it increases wobbling), i decided to mod the shelf to add a spool rack feature.  

Personally i think ikea should do one to sell in their shops.

You will need some extra hardware to complete the rack, in the form of:

2 x aluminium carabiner (or 3d printed, but they need to be strong) - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000291887932.html
1 x 600mm M6 threaded rod - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006809911.html
4 x 608zz ball bearings https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000768898298.html
2 x pieces of strong thread (nylon camping rope is perfect) - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32927694955.html
2 x big screws (i used M8x80mm) with loop on one end and a big nut on the other - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952289538.html
1 x hard cardboard roll, 50mm diameter, ~ 500mm lenght, mine was a leftover from some kitchen supplies.




Ikea Lack Spool Rack - the "LackRack"

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4404903.

Since i upgraded the front suspension of my lunchy using the Futaba FX10 kit i was always unhappy with the shock position and alignment so i designed my own front A arms to accomodate the Futaba knuckles and aftermarket shocks.

There are other designs on thingyverse but all of them were either shorter than the futabas or too weak or jad design issues that prevented me to print them right. 
It took me some work on F360 and about 7 iterations of the design (design-print-test-fail) to get them right. These designs can be printed with minimal support (just the round part)

The arms have a hole to accomodate 2mm nails in the round parts that connect to the body, i use a drill tip 2mm to clean the hole and then slip a simple 2mm nail. 
Using 75mm aluminium oil shocks works best.

To be used you need the FX10 CRP kit 

Feel free to modify and redesign and give me your feedback after testing, i was thinking on adding 2mm holes to add more steel reinforcement if needed.

Tamiya LunchBox independent front suspension arms for Futaba FX10 CRP upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4462049.

Since the Q5 has a pretty heavy effector, mainly built in bent steel plates i decided to make it lighter by redesigning some parts that have no structural importance. 

First the part cooling fan nozzle, and now the Fan support.
This should replace directly the metal support around the heatsing for a lighter (a lot lighter) effector.

The lighter the effector and the faster and better a delta prints.
Lower weight means lower stress on belts, motors and pulleys, less momentum to counteract, less vibrations and more precise movements. 

FLSun Q5 hotend fan support structure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4407637.

Since i want to play with FPV with my GT car based on Tamiya TT01e i designed a custom FPV camera support to anchor the camera and battery to the front body posts without making any extra hole or stick stuff to the body of the car. The mount is also meant to protect the fragile camera and antenna in case of crash

This is compatible with all chassis with body posts at 65mm distance.

There are 3 camera mounts to print and use, each one with different inclination to adapt to the body used, 0, 5 and 10 degrees. 5 degrees being the one usable in 90% of gt bodies.

I am still working on improving the battery holder to more securely hold the battery in place.

The mount is made for a Crazepony micro fpv 5.8ghz all in one camera, it is really small and made for microdrones, super light and works ok. I opted for the all in one camera since i will not be driving more than a few huindred meters (maximum) from the receiver. And if you need a different mode/size whatever you can print your own (or scale it up/down if you need it slightly bigger or smaller.)

Micro FPV camera mount for Tamiya TT01 and compatible bodyes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457906.

Since i wanted to print ABS i started thinkering on making a removable printer enclosure for the Q5.

My solution was super easy: cut a sheet of 2.5mm acrylic that i had around and install the pieces around the printer with small corners. Due to the shape of this printer i had to build it in form of a irregular hexagon. 

How to build:

+ Print 12 corners, i used the short version, but the tall ones are more rigid. 
+ Cut a sheet (probably you need more) of acrylic into 3x 32cm (30 is also ok) and 3x 8cm pieces. 
+ Assemble around the printer using the corners.

FLSun Q5 Delta Acrylic Enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460343.

Super simple magnetic brackets to build a removable enclosure for the FLSun Q5, using 2.5mm acrylic sheets.

See picture for final effect.

FLSun Q5 Delta Printer Acrylic Plate Magnetic Support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4428128.

This is the original model shared by FLSun to build the motor braces. It is needed only if you have not an updated model. 

This was not designed by me.

After printing you need to add an M4 hex nut on the underside of the brace and scre the brace with the 2 smaller holes on the top of the motors using the existing NEMA holes. You may need longer M3 screws for this (12mm or 15mm will do).

Then you need to drill 3 holes on the steel lid of the printer, i used a battery drill with an M4 HSS drill bit for metal, it went through like butter. To mark the spot i used a compass, i measured the distance beteen the existing holes and the brace hole and projected the point to drill.

Once done put the lid in place and screw first the braces then the rest of the lid without tightening fully the screws. Once all screws are in place, tighten them all.

FLSun Q5 Motor Brace

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4604934.

This is a remix for the Raspberry Pi 4 case for the cutout for the geekpi heatsink

Raspberry Pi 4 case top for GeekPIHeatsink

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4527007.

This is my design for a suppositories cast, each batch is made of 10 suppositoires, they have been modeled on commercial 1g suppositoires. 

You can use to make glycerine suppositoires and they are not too small and not too big (eg: for babies), you can make it bigger by scaling the models during slicing. 

I printed in PLA, qand it works fine. After printing i lightly sand the surface to make it perfectly smooth and use some long M3 screws to keep it together tight. Add a piece of tape at the bottom to avoid any leaks.

Online you can find recipees for glycerine suppositoires, what i found works is 

70% glycerine
14% to 18% gelatine (more gelatine = lower melting point, use 14% in summer)
rest is water (so 16% to 12%).

Dissolve gelatine in water on low heat, add the mix to the glycerine, put in casts and then in the fridge until it solidifies (3/4h). Once solid disassemble the cast and put the suppositoires in a fresh place.

Suppository Cast

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5422635.

Small maintenance base to connect usb to tinywhoops and keep them flat. By using this i can connect betaflight and do accelerometer calibration. I designed thjis for my Mobula 7 (75mm) and Beta65s (65mm), they both fit very well.

Tiny Whoop USB Base

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4846776.

A simple cable comb for 12 pin geforce RTX 3000 founders series.
This one has been designed to work well with custom sleeved cables.

Nvidia RTX 3070,3080,3090 12 pin cable - comb

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1154254.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/a3ZVjNmVDgV

Replicator Glass Shims

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