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Build your own custom-sized frame using these snapping parts! Watch the following video to see how it works:

https://youtu.be/Xi6LSqXiOpw

I opted for a simple frame design because A. I prefer that aesthetic and B. a smooth finish is way easier to sand and paint. I may add fancier styles at a later date if people request them. 

The artwork featured in the cover photo is by Louisville, Kentucky artist Thaniel Ion Lee. You can see more of his work and purchase some for yourself here: http://thanielionlee.com/

The background cat is named Sunnyside. She's a camera hog.

The length of the pieces are as follows. Size is measured in inside edge length.

**1" Corner (25.4mm)
2" Straight (50.81mm)
3" Straight (76.2mm)
4" Straight (101.6mm)
5" Straight (127mm)
6" Straight (152.4mm)
6.5" Straight (165.1mm)
7" Straight (177.8mm)
8" Straight (203.2mm)**

1. Measure the length and width of the picture you want to hang.

2. Select the frame lengths that add up to your size. For example, if your picture is 18"x24", you could use the following piece lengths (among other combinations): 

    18" = 1" (left corner) + 1" (right corner) + 8" + 8".  (Times two since there are two sides.)
    24" = 1" (left corner) + 1" (right corner) + 8" + 8" +  6". (Times two since there are two sides.)

3. Before you print all your pieces, I highly recommend you first print **ModularFrameCalibrator**. This tool lets you print all the interlocking parts without having to print a whole piece. Use the recommended slicer settings in step 4, and be sure to see the note about supports. After printing, if the parts snap together fairly easily (but not loose), then you know you've got a good calibration. If it isn't a good fit, experiment with the setting called Horizontal Expansion in Cura or XY Expansion in Prusa Slicer and print again. Once you have a good fit, you can move on to the next step. 

4. Print your **Straights** and **Corners**. You'll need 4 Corners. 

    I recommend walls that are 1.2mm thick (i.e. 3 walls of .4mm each), a bottom thickness of 0.6mm, and a top thickness of 0.8mm. 

    Infill density of 11 percent or higher. 

    Set supports to print for 80 degrees and higher. You only need supports for the overhanging edges on the sides. Make sure supports don't print for the snapping mechanisms or anything internal. 

    In the slicer, I like to set two Straights side by side about 1mm apart, with the overhanging edges facing each other. That way, the support structures for both print as one piece.

5. Print four or more **ModularFrameEdgeClips** to hold your picture and backer in place. See the video for how to snap in. You'll need needle-nose pliers to insert them into the frame. The clips are designed to be tight so they won't fall out. It's not necessary to use every snap-groove on the back of the frame. One clip for every 6 inches is plenty. The clips can be snapped at different heights to accommodate different thicknesses of glass and backer board. 

6. There are three ways to mount your picture. As with the edge clips, use needle-nose pliers to insert. Refer to the pictures to see the mounts in action. The options are:

    Stand the frame on a table or desk with **ModularFrameDeskStand**. This is a print-in-place hinged stand. Snap in one or two of these in the bottom edge of your frame. Not recommended for pictures larger than 8"x10".

    Hang the frame on the wall with **ModularFrameNailCatch**. There are two sizes: Small and Large. The Small size works best when the snap is centered. The Large size is best when the snap is off-center. Snap in the catch near the center top of the frame. Leave a little room behind the catch for the back of the nail. There are two staggered rows of teeth to allow you to achieve perfect balance.

   If you prefer hanging with the hook-and-wire method, print two **ModularFrameEyeHooks**. Attach the eye hooks on the upper sides of the frame – not all the way at the very top but above the middle. Tie a string or wire to each hook. Leave a little slack – but not so much slack that the string hangs above the picture.
 

If there is a metric picture size that these lengths will not cover, please let me know the size in the comments, and if I have time, I will add it.

I used the teeth I designed for Buckleboards Open Source Building Blocks for the snapping mechanism. You can see that project below under the “This Remix is Based On” section.


Snap-Together Modular Picture Frame - Fits Any Size Picture

ModularFrameCorner.stl

Watch this video for a demonstration and assembly instructions: https://youtu.be/xxG6Ntnun-I

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This locking Egg will be the highlight of your next Easter Egg hunt. There are three different lock shapes with three corresponding keys. Place keys and candy in the various eggs, lock them up, and hide them. Then give the hunters only one key. The idea is that the hunters will have to find an egg that matches their key in order to get the keys for the other eggs.

This is also a fun way to hide a geocache, though you may want to place the egg in a plastic bag to avoid the elements.  

The locking mechanism uses a hidden barrel cam to move a pin up and down. I tried 10 or so various locking methods before I settled on the barrel cam. 

If you like this design and want to show your support, you can share your make, leave a review, or buy me a coffee (via [Paypal](https://www.paypal.me/tonyyoungblood), [Venmo](https://www.venmo.com/u/Tony-Youngblood), or [CashApp](https://cash.app/$TonySYoungblood)).  I appreciate your support.

Instructions:

1. Slice and print the top and bottom of the egg, titled **1of7_LockingEggTopHalf** and **2of7_LockingEggBottomHalf**.
    Print as oriented. Supports are not required. I recommend a layer height of 0.2mm or smaller, wall thickness of 1.2mm, a bottom thickness of 0.6mm, and a top thickness of 0.8mm. Infill density of 12 percent or higher. I tried to allow for horizontal expansion in the design, so first try printing it without adjusting horizontal expansion, slicing tolerance, or x/y compensation. If it prints too tight or too loose, then you can use one of those slicing features to compensate. Threads are notorious for being the hardest item to print, so please be patient. If you want to save time while testing, you can print the included **calibration test** instead of the full model, but that is optional.
    Once the egg halves are printed, screw the threads in and out repeatedly to remove any stray particles. It may feel too tight on the first threading but should screw easily after ten seconds of doing this.
2.  Slice and print **3of7_LockingEggPin**, **4of7_LockingEggLid**, and **5of7_LockingEggClip** using the same settings as above. 
3. Now you need to decide which key shape you want. There are three options: Square, Triangle, and Pentagon. If you only print one style, I recommend the Square Key. Print **6of7_LockingEggKey...** and  **7of7_LockingEggLock...** in the shape you choose, using the same settings as above. The lock file is a barrel cam that moves the pin up and down. I had no trouble printing the lock without supports, but if you run into trouble, you can add supports to that file only. 
4. Make sure the Pin end can slide freely in the Lock (barrel cam) groove. The pin should pass over the bump on each end of the groove without much resistance. If it doesn't, sand the groove until you get an easy slide. Refer to the video to see what I mean. 
5. Follow this assembly video to see how to put together. You'll need some small needle nose pliers. https://youtu.be/xxG6Ntnun-I

I am also including the original Sketchup files. Feel free to remix this with surface skins and whatever you can dream up!

This thing is a remix from my own simple threaded Easter Egg. You can download the original, non-locking egg here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812640


If you sell prints of this file, please respect the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license and credit me on the sales page with a link to this page.


Locking Egg with Key - Great for Easter Egg Hunts and Geocaching

2of7_LockingEggBottomHalf.stl

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I needed a hollow, two-part, high-resolution Easter Egg with threads, so I made one!

The whole egg measures 63mm tall by 45mm wide.

If you like this design and want to show your support, you can share your make, leave a review, or buy me a coffee (via [Paypal](https://www.paypal.me/tonyyoungblood), [Venmo](https://www.venmo.com/u/Tony-Youngblood), or [CashApp](https://cash.app/$TonySYoungblood)). I appreciate 
you.

Instructions:

1. Print the bottom and top pieces as oriented in the files. Supports are not required. I recommend a layer height of 0.2mm or smaller, wall thickness of 1.2mm, a bottom thickness of 0.6mm, and a top thickness of 0.8mm. Infill density of 12 percent or higher. I tried to allow for horizontal expansion in the design, so first try printing it without adjusting horizontal expansion, slicing tolerance, or x/y compensation. If it prints too tight or too loose, then you can use one of those slicing features to compensate. Threads are notorious for being the hardest item to print, so please be patient. If you want to save time while testing, you can print the included calibration test instead of the full model.

2. Once printed, screw the threads in and out repeatedly to remove any stray particles. It may feel too tight on the first threading but should screw easily after ten seconds of doing this.

I am also including the original Sketchup files. Feel free to remix this with surface skins and whatever you can dream up! Just don't forget to list your print as a remix of this.

Happy Easter!

Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike. If you sell prints of this file, please respect the license and credit me on the sales page with a link to this page.

 Easter Egg with Threads - Great for Hiding Prizes!

EasterEggThreadedStandardBottom.stl

Please "like" this thing to help it rise in the search results, especially if you download it or add it to a collection.

It's a threaded dragon egg, great for Easter egg hunts, gifts, and Game of Thrones fans.

The whole egg measures 63mm tall by 45mm wide. I will soon add large and extra large versions.

This is a remix of my own threaded Easter egg. I made every bit of this from scratch, including the scales. I made the scales by importing a custom texture into a Blender brush and placing every scale one at a time, adjusting the size as I went. I designed it with Sketchup, Blender, and Meshmixer. (And Gimp for the scale alpha.)

If you like this design and want to show your support, you can share your make, leave a review, or buy me a coffee (via [Paypal](https://www.paypal.me/tonyyoungblood), [Venmo](https://www.venmo.com/u/Tony-Youngblood), or [CashApp](https://cash.app/$TonySYoungblood)). I appreciate 
you.

Instructions:

1. Print the bottom and top pieces as oriented in the files. Supports are not required. I recommend a layer height of 0.2mm or smaller, wall thickness of 1.2mm, a bottom thickness of 0.6mm, and a top thickness of 0.8mm. Infill density of 12 percent or higher. I tried to allow for horizontal expansion in the design, so first try printing it without adjusting horizontal expansion, slicing tolerance,  or x/y compensation. If it prints too tight or too loose, then you can use one of those slicing features to compensate. Threads are notorious for being the hardest item to print, so please be patient. If you want to save time while testing, you can print the included calibration test instead of the full model. 
2. Once printed, screw the threads in and out repeatedly to remove any stray particles. It may feel too tight on the first threading but should screw easily after ten seconds of doing this.    
3. Note the small nubs near the threads. Refer to the pictures to see what I'm talking about.  When the two nubs are parallel, you know you've got the proper alignment.

Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike. If you sell prints of this file, please respect the license and credit me on the sales page with a link to this page.

Threaded Dragon Egg, Great for Easter and Gifts

DragonEggStandardBottom.stl

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