Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5013953.

I wanted to create a following head effect similar to what is used on the statues at the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland.  After doing some research I found this Thanos great bust (tagged from remix) and using Meshmixer made an imprint into a cube.  Then hollowing the cube I sliced off the walls and was left with this face.  The hollowing created thicker areas where the image had deeper lines so that when held up to the light you get lithophane-style natural shadows.  My intention was for this to be front-lit like the Disney versions, however, when I held mine up to the light I discovered the accidental lithophane quality which, honestly, was quite an accident.  I found that by placing a small light at a 45-degree angle, about a foot above and behind the print, I was able to create naturally falling shadows.  I have included 2 videos showing how the effect looks when lit from both the front and behind.  I have printed this using both FDM and SLA.  There is a natural support beneath the chin to help support the model and will not require supports using either FDM or SLA printing.

Edit 10/25/21: Added 200% scale version without increasing thickness for those with larger printers

Natural Lighting: 
https://youtu.be/ffa-O0_pDpw

Back Lighting:
https://youtu.be/1ycBszxecCs

Front Lighting
https://youtu.be/ehBB7P-D1C8

Thanos: 3D Lithophane Following Head

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578487.

I wanted to find a simple camera mount for my raspberry pi camera to use for octoprint but they all required me to purchase screws.  

Here is a very simple camera that allows for camera pivot with no screws required.  

I have provided multiple camera mount lengths which clip directly to the bar and 1 which fits into the pinhole at the top corners of the Ender frame.  This should fit most standard rails.  I only have an Ender 5 so I can't name other frames with standard rails.  If you can verify it fitting, or not, on your frame let me know and I'll credit you in the notes.  (try printing one of the smaller ones first to verify fit)

Everything is designed to be able to print without supports.  You might be wondering why the triangles cut into the bar?  No, it is not to reduce filament usage.  It is actually there to create extra strength in the bar itself.  Extra walls get created with that design and the walls themselves are supported by the triangle shape.  I know the camera isn't heavy but that is no excuse for not creating a solid design. :-)

Post a make and show us what you have done!

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Edit: hppyhckr confirms working on Ender 5 pro

Edit March 11, 2021: Added 3 short clips with different angles for mounting in hard-to-reach places, (requested by Wpnx330).  

Also added an Extra Long bent piece with clips to hold the camera ribbon, for moving the camera over more of the build plate.  (Inspired by the remix made of this by lwkalis)

Simple Pivoting Raspberry Pi Cam, No Screws Needed (For standard rails, like Ender 5)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4813009.

I wanted to add an Air Assist to my Ortur Laser Master but didn't want to have to buy something expensive.  I have an airbrush compressor on hand so I decided to use that and included a cap that screws onto the compressor.  If you wanted to use a fish tank compressor with a tube you can add a different cap.  Once I find a tube I'll make an additional cap attachment.  I designed this to attach directly to the laser diode so it should be compatible with most laser diode systems.

#### Update 5-19-2021: Added an angled (less phallic) version

### Additional Parts Needed:
- Standard Metal Straw, bent or straight (available for under $2)
- 2 rubber bands
- 2 zip ties (optional)

### Printing Tips:
Cura has an experimental option to make overhangs printable which is what I used for the hose screw.  Pictured in the images above.  I printed the air hose on its side with no supports.  It was a little tight going on so I used a heat gun to soften it a bit and it went on fine.

### Assembly:
Image instructions are included above.
1. Slide 2 clips onto the straw and attach the air part and hose connector to each end.
1. Move one clip next to the air piece and the other a couple of inches over.
1. When inserted into the gaps in the laser module one clip should rest next to the upper bound of the laser and the lower one should be at the bottom of the laser.  This provides stability during movement to prevent the assembly to tilt.
1. To prevent the staw from slipping down during movement you can tighten the clips using zip ties.
1. Attach the assembly to the laser module using the rubber bands.  You can position this anywhere on the laser module you like.  I have found that positioning it near the back right will not interfere with the natural homing of the laser.
1. Looping the rubber bands below the clips will apply upward pressure which will keep the assembly secure and prevent slipping.
1. Attach your hose to the top.  If you want to suspend the hose from above then use a straight straw.  If you want the hose to follow the cable then use a bent straw and angle it in that direction to avoid kinking the hose.


Universal Air Assist for Diode Laser Cutter / Engraver

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4380655.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1571860

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1571860



shop vac water attachment

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4378104.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1571860

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1571860

I edited the customized file in tinkercad to add the attachment guide.  I also added cutouts for air intake.  No supports are needed.  The nozzle opening is 35mm

Then I wanted a larger attachment.  The customizer wasn't good for making a large item with a 30 degree slant so I ended up designing my own in tinkercad.

Hard Floor Duster Vaccuum Attachment

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6275278.

Say goodbye to unleveled picture hanging.  Using a rounded french cleat design you can easily rotate your artwork without having to add holes in your wall.

Speaking of holes, this new design uses an angled t-pin which you can pick up from any hobby store or Walmart for a very low price.  The angled pin is inspired by the super strong OOK Professional Picture Hangers which I have used to hang items as heavy as a large dresser mirror on drywall without studs and almost no mark in the wall.  Nails are messy and leave such a large blemish on your wall.  See the included pictures where I replaced the old version of the hanger, which used small nails, with the t-pin.  The mark left behind is nearly invisible and very easy to patch when desired.

The previous version I made worked but the back was weak and tended to snap off.  Plus I was thinking old world and not embracing what 3D printing could do.  I completely redesigned the Picture Frame Hanger to use this new Curved French Cleat design.  Designed to print flat with no supports the back is very strong and will no longer snap off.  You may want to apply a bit of sticky to the part which connects to the back of your canvas print to help hold it in place as you lower it on to the wall mount.  The curved design not only allows you to reposition but also keeps the picture from sliding off to either side.

Canvas Picture Frame Hanger - T-pin + Curved French Cleat style

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4804929.

# Included designs for either 3D Printed or Lasercutting your own.
##Installation is the same for either part.

I purchased an Ortur Laser Master 2 and found that the cables going from the laser module to the side of the machine kept getting stuck in the side and would either limit movement or get in the way of the limit switch and messing up homing.  I tried another solution from Thingiverse only to find that Ortur must have enhanced the acrylic and the printed part would not fit.  

I didn't want to go out and buy screws to attach something that should be simple so I resorted to designing my own part from scratch.  I measured the black acrylic piece that fits behind the laser head and made a part that nicely fits over that.  As a bonus, this uses very little filament and should print in about 30 min.
[](https://youtu.be/vYrt3xPD3T4)

### Additional Parts Needed:
3 small zip ties

### Assembly:
1. Place part behind the black acrylic piece next to the laser head.
1. Secure in place using 2 of the zip ties.
1. Bring the laser power cord over the top of the support beam, this reduces stress and gives stability to this cable.
1. Using the 3rd zip tie secure the cords to the top end of the printed piece.  If you have air assist you can also include the hose, no need to zip this too tightly, as long as it is supported you are good.

Now you can try moving your laser head to the side and you will see that the cords easily clear the edge with no more issues.
___
##### Edit: 4-12-2021 Added v2 with rounded corners on supports and edges to increase strength
___
###### Disclaimer: This item is free to make for personal use but may not be resold without permission. Those who have obtained permission will be listed here.
##### https://www.etsy.com/listing/1001888067/hosewire-support-guide-for-ortur-laser?ref=shop_home_active_1

Ortur Laser Master 2 Wire Support Guide (Print or Lasercut)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910017.

Lost the Launch Lug for one of these Estes Rockets so I used the part from another to measure and model another.  This is an exact size so if printing in resin be sure to account for possible shrinkage by adding 1 or 2 percent scale.

Launch Lug for Gnome Estes Model Rocket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4934132.

The newer Samsung Galaxy S21 series no longer has an option that ships with an S-Pen.  I loved my Note and missed the pen.  However, the S21 is compatible with all previous Samsung Pens.  Only problem? No place to put it.  Sure you can buy a case that has built-in pouches for the pen but the cases themselves only provide sub-par drop protection.

My solution, design a holder for the S-Pen that can be attached to the side of my existing phone case.  You can mount this anywhere you like.  I didn't have room on the back of my case and since the new phone design places all the buttons on one side leaving the whole left side of the case open for accessories I chose to place it there.

I chose to use the Galaxy Note Stylus Touch S Pen (N950) due to its slim design to minimize the amount of space added to the case design.  If you have a different pen I cannot promise it will fit.  I have no idea of those pen dimensions.

I recommend printing this with a flexible material to allow the pen to slide in and out easily while keeping a good grip.  There is a small lip at the end that helps to keep the pen in place and not accidentally slide out.

SPen Holder for Phone Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578721.

I needed a way to hang the hose for spraying so I threw this together, fits a simple lanyard clip or whatever you like

Hose Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578737.

UPDATE: new version of this here: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/949013

My daughter had some canvas paintings to hang up that had no hook for hanging.  I didn't want to damage the small frame so I made this hanger hook that slides under the back canvas and then will hang on a nail

Canvas Picture Frame Hanger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5437040.

I really liked palimbroseb's design and the 3 plates are excellent and it got me thinking about how I might combine them into one.  So keeping the Big Hole version exactly the same as the original, (copied here for convenience) I sliced out an inner plug molded from the full plate version.  Then I cut a cap to fit over the center parts.  I gave the inverse parts a 0.1mm tolerance around each side to make them fit.  For best results, you should use white paint/primer for the plates and a black primer for the plug

Revopoint ScanPlate - Simplified

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4378126.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1571860

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1571860



Window Vaccuum Attachment - round tip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578723.

I really liked the Kindle cover that fromfo designed but I wanted a little more drop protection so I added some bumpers

Kindle Cover with Bumpers

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