Our M!N!MAL case for all the Raspberry PI's out there...

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Pico, less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Pico itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than 15 minutes) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

All interfaces and also the GPIO pins have openings which are separate parts, all labelled according to the pin out in the 3mf file, in the model. Simply delete the ones you need open…

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Pico project we also included a STEP and STL file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges. All these settings are preset in the XXX 3mf for both MK3 and MK4.
The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90 degrees. Again no brim will be needed. These settings are also preset in the 3mf for both MK3 and MK4, in PETG since it delivers the best transparency.
If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0 for the respective parts. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shell and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Material Links**
These are affiliate links and I will get a few cents of your purchase but since the models are free it would be kind to still use them!

[Raspberry Pi Pico](https://amzn.to/4bznGEF)

Happy printing!

M!N!MAL Pico - A Raspberry Pi Pico Case

raspbery_pico_01.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 5 in the version with cooling. Since the guys a Raspberry did such a great job providing a perfect cooling fan / heatsink for the Pi 5 there is no more need for any fan mounts (like on our models for the Pi 0, 3 and 4). So this case provides enough space for the Pi5 with the Raspberry Pi Active Cooler. Since the cooler is very small you will find  two versions of the case, one that provides just the space needed but has the Ethernet and USB sockets still looking out of the case (the 'slim' version) and one going up the full height, covering Ethernet and USB ports (the 'full' version).
Like all its predecessors it is still a foldable, print in place housing with live hinges that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour), fold and use it…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI,...) and the fan if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90 degrees. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 5 CH - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

pi_5_case_full_v2.stl

pi_5_case_slim_v2.stl

pi_5_case_slim_v2.stp

pi_5_case_full_v2.stp

pi_5_case_w_cooling_slim_mk4s.3mf

pi_5_case_w_cooling_full_mk4s.3mf

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 5 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset Pin,...) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90 degrees. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 5 - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

pi_5_case_slim_wo_cooling_v2.stl

pi_5_case_slim_wo_cooling_v2.stp

pi_5_case_wo_cooling_v2_mk4s.3mf

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 4 in the version with cooling, providing space for a 25mm fan and / or a heatsink, (we have another model that is without cooling), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) and the fan mount (snap in without screws) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 4 CH - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

pi_4_case_w_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 4 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 4 - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

pi_4_case_wo_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 3 in the version with cooling, providing space for a 25mm fan and / or a heatsink, (we have another model that is without cooling), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) and the fan mount (snap in without screws) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 3 CH - Raspberry Pi 3 Case

pi_3_case_w_cooling.stl

A minimal, foldable print in place case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 with live hinges (with cooling).

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) in the version with cooling (we have another model that is prepared without cooling), less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. There is a clip in for a 25mm fan (material link below) without screws. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than one hour / less than half an hour input shaping) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The parts prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90 degrees. Again no brim will be needed but printing in PETG is suggested since it delivers the best transparency.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
First you need to connect the fan to the Raspberry, probably by soldering the cables to the board. Please note that the cables have to be connected from the top (see pics) and that the soldering spot on the bottom side is as small as possible. There is a little hole in the case below the pins but since everything is minimized there is not a lot of space… Then click the fan in place, stow the cable and place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place. Needs a little attention with the hinge side pins, which need to be place and inserted first.

**Material Links**
These are affiliate links and I will get a few cents of your purchase but since the models are free it would be kind to still use them!

[Raspberry Pi Zero 2W](https://amzn.to/3AfRdVN)

[25 x 25 x 6 mm 5V fan](https://amzn.to/3C9Rg64)

**Happy printing and assembling!**

M!N!MAL Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Cooling

minimal_zero_2_case_01_w_cooling.stl

A minimal, foldable print in place, housing for the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 or Banana Pi M2 with cooling and heatsink.

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) or the Banana Pi M2 (material links below) in the version with cooling and heatsink. Especially the Banana Pi M2 should definitely be used with  heatsink and cooling since it runs a lot hotter than the Raspberry. For the Raspberry we also have cases without or with just cooling that have a smaller form factor. Besides the cooling these smaller ones will not work for the Banana Pi since the preinstalled GPIO pins require a bigger case anyway. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. There is a clip in for a 25mm fan (material link below) without screws. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) are rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP along the STL file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The parts prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

- For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.
- The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90degrees. Again no brim will be needed.
In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
First you need to connect the fan to the Raspberry, probably by soldering the cables to the board or the GPIO pins (in case you need to find out which ones just google Raspberry or Banana Pi pinout). Please note that the cables have to be connected from the top (see pics) and that the soldering spot on the bottom side is as small as possible. There is a little hole in the case below the pins but since everything is minimized there is not a lot of space… Glue the heatsinks (material link below) on the board, click the fan in place, stow the cable and place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Material Links**
These are affiliate links and I will get a few cents of your purchase but since the models are free it would be kind to still use them!

[Raspberry Pi Zero 2W](https://amzn.to/3AfRdVN)

[Banana Pi M2 Zero](https://amzn.to/3NHCmXq)

[25 x 25 x 6 mm 5V fan](https://amzn.to/3C9Rg64)

[7 x 14 x 14 mm Heatsinks](https://amzn.to/48lQUoW)

**Happy printing and assembling!**

M!N!MAL 0 CH - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 / Banana Pi M2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Heatsink & Cooling

zero_m2_case_01.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling), less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an half an hour / under 15 minutes with input shaping) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35 degrees to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90 degrees (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90 degrees. Again no brim will be needed.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Material Links**
These are affiliate links and I will get a few cents of your purchase but since the models are free it would be kind to still use them!

[Raspberry Pi Zero 2W](https://amzn.to/3AfRdVN)

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 0 - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case

minimal_zero_2_case_01_wo_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 3 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an half an hour / under 15 minutes with input shaping) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

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