Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3817997.

I've seen other Minecraft diamond ore lamps in various places by they all seem to lack the definitive pixelation that Minecraft embraces.

By leveraging techniques used from 3D printed lithographs and some of the features of the latest PrusaSlicer, I was able to give mine all the glorious 8-bit-ness it needs.

The lamp can be controlled via Siri (and its analogy on other platforms, I presume) via Homebridge.

Via the Home app on my iOS devices, I can easily control the color, brightness and on/off state at will with the familiar interface that I use with other devices.

Or, I can use the Siri commands:

"Hey Siri, turn the Diamond lamp on."
"Hey Siri, set the brightness of the Diamond lamp to 100%"
"Hey Siri, set the color of the Diamond lamp to [insert any color you like here!]" or
"Hey Siri, set the color of the Diamond lamp to Aqua" to get back to the desired Diamond Ore look.

Here's a video: https://youtu.be/6jC8ryEkgvQ

This is powered by a Raspberry Pi Zero and a Unicorn pHAT which offers an excellent about of lighting for this project and with a high level of flexibility.

I've even added a couple of bonus "colors" which are more like effect modes:

"Hey Siri, set the color of the Diamond lamp to Candlelight" will simulate a flickering candle inside the lamp.

"Hey Siri, set the color of the Diamond lamp to Ocean Boat Blue" will create a slowly undulating blue wave effect, and

"Hey Siri, set the color of the Diamond lamp to Razzmatazz" will create a cycling rainbow effect.

I've published the software I wrote to control the lamp and instructions for installing it here: https://github.com/mkoistinen/unicorn-homebridge-integration

This print measures 150mm on each edge.

8-Bit Minecraft Diamond Ore Lamp - Siri Enabled!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330359.

This is a [Shulker Box from Minecraft](https://minecraft.gamepedia.com/Shulker_Box), albeit only 75mm cubed rather than 1m cubed =) The dimensions are accurate and the pitch of the thread rises the box accurately too: 50% of the height of the box per revolution, just like in Minecraft.

It is so satisfying to open and close this box!

I've modeled this to be essentially solid when it is closed except for the inner cavity, which is a smooth cylinder, ~53mm in diameter and ~70mm in height. Makes a great gift box for the right recipient and the right gift (money fits nicely inside!)

P.S. I've now provided a 40x40x40mm and 30x30x30mm versions.

Shulker Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541857.

This is a fairly simple model of a larger-than-life bolt and matching nut. I created this as a piece of shelf art and it's pretty fun to just play with, but there's also a hidden compartment inside the bolt. Could be a great place to hide some emergency cash or secret documents.

The nuts do have some challenging overhangs, but it printed almost perfectly without supports on my Prusa i3 MK3S. I used the 0.15mm layer height with Amazon Basics Black PLA. I have printed an earlier version of this in their Premium Blue PLA and it came out amazing, so I'll probably try out their black Premium PLA soon.

UPDATE: My Prusament Galaxy Black arrived, so nice!

It stands 130mm tall when assembled, both the nut and the hex cap are 30mm tall. The bolt shaft is 50mm in diameter.

Oversized Bolt & Nut

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3999092.

This is yet another playing card box. It's a simple model, but quite functional. In addition to providing a nice place to store cards, the base makes a great draw pile holder, and the top makes a great discard pile holder.

The spade-shaped hole at the top helps to prevent cards from sticking to the lid due to air pressure, makes a nice finger-hold for pushing cards out, and it's nice to see at a glance which set of cards are inside the box.

This one is sized perfectly for the Bicycle brand of 52 cards (with room to spare for jokers, etc.). The inside dimensions of this box are 64mm x 88.3mm x 20mm (plus an additional 0.3mm tolerance around the width and length). The Fusion 360 file is [here](https://a360.co/2KQC7co) in case you need different dimensions for your brand of playing cards. The construction is parametric, just update the variables for Width, Length, Height, Tolerance, and Radius to suit your needs.


Playing Card Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3555450.

There are a lot of other Vice models here, but this one is mine. I like it because it looks cool (to me), is 100% 3D printable (without any supports) and works well for my purposes which is to hold Pi Zeros and their pHats for soldering, etc. The "jaws" have triangular grooves for confidently holding things like circuit boards both vertically and horizontally.

The assembled unit (when jaws are closed) measures about 161x70x90mm. The space within the jaws when fully open measures: 67x70x70mm (can hold a Raspberry Pi Zero in any orientation).

To assemble, you require 1 print of each part and 4 prints of the 10mm bolt.

This isn't meant to perform apply super heavy compression, but could certainly pinch a finger pretty hard or worse, so, use at your own risk!


Yet Another Vice/Clamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579898.

In our bathtub, there is a towel rack on the far wall that is composed of a 20mm x 20mm square chrome bar. I decided I wanted a soap dish on that, so, I made one =)

Clip-on Soap Dish

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3897621.

OK, so this is a remix of my model here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3876646. I've integrated a USB Hub into the tray. This essentially adds 3 more USB ports, which is perfect for me to have 2 working phone chargers (as the car comes with) but also room for my Sentry Mode/Music storage media + 2 Logitech Controllers for Tesla in-car gaming!

The USB Hub to use with this model is the "USB Hub, RSHTECH 4 Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Aluminum Data Hub Portable USB Splitter" found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RM322YY/. You will also want a short male-to-female USB extension cable. You won't need more than about 10 inches (25cm), so get the shortest one you can find at least that long.

I designed this model so that the above USB hub slides into an opening in the back of the tray. The source USB lead comes down out of a small opening on the bottom. The USB hub has a front-facing USB port which the normal phone charger can plug right into and the hub's source USB lead can be plugged into the car with a short USB extension.

Perfect!

UPDATE: I've now also included "USB Tray2.stl" which is the same model without the J1772 adapter spot.

UPDATE2: I've now added "Negative Mold for Liners.stl" so you can pour urethane rubber liners for your tray.

Tesla Model 3 Tray with Integrated USB Hub + J1772 Slot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3586580.

These are some Modern-esk hexagonal plant pots. They have all the same footprint and the same built-in water tray. There are smallish holes at the bottom of the inside to allow the tray to serve as a reservoir.

The mid-sized one was designed to fit a "standard" small plastic potting pot (100mm diameter at top, 70mm diameter at bottom, 7mm tall). The idea being we can bring a nice indoor plant home and put it directly in this hexagonal pot. When the plant outgrows the pot it came in, we can move it into the hexagonal one.

The taller one is used when the plant even outgrows the mid-sized pot and the shortest pot is used for cactii or other small plants.

The pots shown in the photo were printed in the Ziro Marble filament. It's gorgeous and prints really nicely on the Prusa i3 MK3/S. I printed every single one of these pots (5 in total for me, 1.5 kgs) in this filament without a single printing error.

Yet Another Plant Pot (set)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4359734.

I've started making some of the nice HKCams created by another user here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3587354. The website for this project is here: https://hochgatterer.me/hkcam/. His software is easy to install on a Raspberry Pi Zero W and works great with HomeKit (Siri).

Unfortunately, I struggled a little with the actual 3D printed case, so here's my attempt to address these issues. Although the design is very similar, my design was built from scratch in Fusion 360. I am tagging the original in the spirit of "remix culture", but this is original work too. I am also respecting the original license.

### Here's my list of improvements:

1. Designed for FDM printing. The original, while gorgeous, includes a number of surfaces that just don't print nicely on a FDM printer. For example, the filleted edges and the hex-nut on the bottom of of the body resulted in very droopy overhangs for me;

2. The 1/4" standard-for-tripods UNC thread is just too small for 3D printed threads. Many of my prints were ruined when the threaded bolt of the tripod broke off inside the body. Impossible to get out, so, 2 of the 3 parts would need to be re-printed each time. In this design, I opted to use the 50% larger 3/8" UNC thread you find on some tripods. This works really nicely!

3. The tripod is just that, a TRI-pod. With 3 legs it will never wobble if one the legs are slightly non-planar with the others. Also, I've made the ends slightly larger, with a slightly larger stance and circular. I stick tiny rubber feet there for an extra firm grip on the surface below.

4. The aperture beside the two Micro USB ports has been re-positioned for the new Pi location and slightly enlarged to allow for 90° micro-USB angle connectors, this allows my power cable to point down instead of straight out the side.

5. The Pi Zero was too low in the body to allow for a typical 5mm heat sink on my Pi's processor. This design lets the Pi sit high enough that a heat sink fits nicely.

6. Speaking of heat, this design has vents on the top of the body too, this should allow a nice updraft from the side vents, across the surface of the PI, then up, passing the camera and out the top.

7. An extra tab to hold the lid on very nicely.

8. Sleeker beveled part where the threaded connection hole is rather than what looks like a hex-nut tacked on (design choice?)

9. Slightly larger tolerances between the Pi and the body.

In addition to a photo of a finished piece in Galaxy Black and black PLA, I've also supplied a number of renders from F360, the cyan ones are rendered with a transparent lid so that the detail is visible, but no, I can't print acrylic with my Prusa =). The Galaxy Black renders look almost identical to the real thing though =) I've also included a couple with a yellow lid for visual comparison to the original project.

Homekit Camera Case (HKCam)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4035433.

**This is only a base** for the popular [Christmas Tree by idig3D](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1913982). The base is designed to perfectly fit when the Christmas Tree is scaled to 66.0% (which is the size that fits my printer, the Original Prusa i3 MK3S).

 The base also holds a Raspberry Pi Zero and it's Unicorn pHat and has a convenient cord hole and slot for the power cord.

 Combined with [the software I created](https://github.com/mkoistinen/unicorn-homebridge-integration) for my [Diamond Ore Lamp](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3817997), it makes a nice HomeKit accessory for your holiday decoration needs =)

Shopping List: 
1x - [Raspberry Pi Zero W](https://www.adafruit.com/product/3708)
1x - [Pimoroni Unicorn pHat](https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/unicorn-phat)


Raspberry Pi Zero Lamp Base for Christmas Tree

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3964678.

I mount my spools on the wall now and wanted a way to also mount the end of my PTFE tubes. Since the direction that the PTFE should draw from the spool changes depending on how full the spool is, I wanted something that would change pitch as required.

This prints easily and then attaches nicely. The angle of the holder's opening nicely locks in the pivoting M10 coupler for ordinary use (and gravity) but is also easy to take out by rotating the coupler to a more extreme angle. This helps me feed a new filament spool in easy, or simply detach the spool from the wall while it is still threaded.

I'm using this pack of 10 PTFE M10 couplers from [Amazon (US)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB81IHG/). My personal application is to complement the use of the must-have [Prusa MMU2 PTFE Holder M10 Passthrough Adapter](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579) mod (Thanks! [vertigo235](https://www.thingiverse.com/vertigo235)) for the Prusa Multi-Material Upgrade (MMU). The above Amazon link provides 10 couplers, but the above-linked mod only requires 5. This will use one of the left-overs, or all 5 remaining if doing 5 filament feed tubes.

Note that the thread I am using in this print is metric 10mm diameter and 1.0mm thread pitch (ISO Metric designation M10x1) and while the M10 couplers from the above Amazon link fit nicely, there is reason to believe that the actual couplers are using some non-metric thread pitch instead (See comments [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579/comments)). Regardless, I can report that the couplers fit very nicely and firmly in this print.

Update: The coupler now prevents the PTFE tubing from "moving" up when pulled.

Also, the Fusion 360 files are here: https://a360.co/2swDaIt

PTFE M10 Wall Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4212206.

I needed a method of connecting a "webcam" to my printer for remote monitoring from around the house via Octoprint.

So, this comes in a couple pieces:

* A connector that snaps to the 30x30 extrusion frame (Y-axis on Prusa, and possibly other printers)
* A "knob" that connects to the above snap-on connector and starts the "chain" of knobs and sockets
* A number of "links" (knob/socket connectors)
* A socket camera mount (uses the standard 1/4" bolt connector)

NOTE: The camera connector is printed plastic. Do not overtighten or it will break off in your camera.

Flexi-Arm Camera Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4057098.

I started with [FITPrinting](https://www.thingiverse.com/FITPrinting)'s version of this, but the holes weren't aligned to fit any of the light switches I had and it was very difficult to print without supports.

This is a redesign for MMU/Dual Extruder printers. But, it only involves 7 filament changes, so, virtually any printer could do it with a little bit of patience.

This can also be 100% printed without supports. Just print it with the front face of the plate down on the print bed.

I printed it red on white and white on red and decided that the white on red combination worked best for my son's room. YMMV.


Nintendo Switch (Plate) for MMU or Dual Extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3624616.

I needed a simple desk organizer. I looked around here, but I didn't find any that looked like it would match the decor of my living room where our family computer desk is. So, I made my own. It's basically just a cup, with a wider tray base for stability and to provide a place for those odd things you need to keep handy at your desk.

The outer edges of the tray have a smooth filet so that removing items––especially coins and other flat things––are a cinch to just slide up and out.

If you need to keep paperclips or other metal things handy, I have one version where one of the larger compartments in the tray is magnetized and has a slight depression to keep a pile of them. I've included a photo of the magnets I used if you can find the same ones, great. Otherwise, I've also included the Fusion 360 archive and the STEP file of the same in case you have a different size magnet. (Mine was 5.1mm x 5.6mm x 6.2mm, IIRC).

I printed it in Prusement Galaxy Black and it looks pretty elegant on my desk. No need for supports anywhere. The one pictured was printed a 0.2mm layer height and looks pretty great, but if you want the filets and the recessed paperclip area to be extra smooth, I'd recommend a 0.1mm layer height or thinner.

Desk Organizer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3474118.

I decided to try my hand at some coasters. I normally partake in cold drinks, which eventually condenses a lot of water around my glass, then drips everywhere. PLA isn't particularly good at soaking this up, so I know I wanted to depend on capillary action to pull this water away from my glass and into the coaster. For this reason, my design has space beneath the surface to collect this condensate. I tried some other patterns, including concentric rings/circles, but this wasn't so good for paper cups, which have a paper-thin ring at the bottom which would get stuck, or worse, cause the cup to fall over.

Then, I decided to fire up [Structure Synth](http://structuresynth.sourceforge.net/) to make a new pattern which avoided this issue and still provides the required sucking power of capillary action, and is also a lot more pleasing to the eye. This also happens to be the first 3D print I've seen that uses Structure Synth for a more practical use, rather than making abstract art pieces =)

In order to get the 2-tone drink pad (inner tray), I added [M600](http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html) to my gcode to trigger a filament change starting at the 4.2mm layer.

As witnessed with the blue/white photograph, this model is pretty cool with temperature sensitive filaments. When you set a hot drink on it, the color turns from blue to white. In this example, I'm using Amolen filament, which printed perfectly onto my usual Amazon Basics white the first time (and every time).

I've also made one with TPU (flexible filament) for the inner tray. This makes for a nicer sound when setting your drink onto the tray, but I understand that TPU absorbs moisture, which is great for a coaster, but may lead to break-down of the tray's structure. Also, the stringiness of that print gave it a sub-standard appearance.

The outer tray has a 0.1mm tolerance which is perfect for my printer. If you struggle to get the inner tray to fit within the outer, I recommend scaling the X and Y axes of the outer tray a little to widen the tolerance. (E.g., If you need 0.2mm clearance, use a scale factor of 1.0013 for both X and Y, and so on.)

Yet Another Coaster

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513388.

I have an old house with an old bathtub. Unfortunately, I also have old plumbing, so, I _really_ want to keep hair and other debris out of the pipes where possible.

Here's my solution. I know there are a bajillion other similar solutions on Thinaverse, but this one is mine =)

My bathtub drain is 43mm diameter and there is a metal cross (very rudimentary trap) about 30mm down. Yours may differ, so, **I've included the Fusion 360 file (.f3d)** so you can modify to suit. It should be relatively easy to do. The file is clean and every step is editable.

The *raised* center portion serves a number of purposes; it makes for a handy place to pull it up from for cleaning, it stop hair flowing across it for better trapping, and the larger hole at the top improves drainage. Seems to work well so far.

I've printed the one photographed with 0.2mm layers and there is no infill to worry about. It was printed on the Prusa i3 MK3S with the Prusament Silver that comes with the printer.

Bath Hair Trap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4173926.

I small print to give my Apple Watch (44mm) a better home on my nightstand.

The design allows for the cord to go to the left or the right. On my print, Apple's magnetic charger fits perfectly in place, which is then snug against the watch as it should be.

Apple Watch Charging Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574665.

Sometimes, you want to drill into a wall and you don't really want debris flying everywhere, so, I made this parametric shop-vac attachment. Works flawlessly!

Pretty simple, sits flat against the wall and has a "window" that allows you to do your drilling. The vacuum from your shop-vac will suck up any debris as it is being produced.

I printed mine out of clear PETG so that as much light as possible will be able to get through.

The STLs and gcode supplied here are for a 45mm hose. If you need another size, you can use the F360 or STEP files I've included herein. You can adjust the hose size (diameter and socket length), the "window" diameter as well as the shell thickness and the amount of fillet.

Parametric Drill Vacuum Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572314.

This is a remix of my previously posted print [Privacy Cover for the Logitech C610 Webcam](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571629) that adds an eye when the cover is open for a constant reminder that one could be being watched.

Privacy cover for the Logitech C610 Webcam with eye

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571629.

Wanted a cover for my C610 that just worked. Designed this in Fusion 360 and it works great! The thin ring front means you can see the LEDs on the camera when they're on whether the cover is opened or closed.

This uses a print-in-place hinge. The swinging cover was designed to fold completely flat when open and it does so nicely.

I printed mine in Prusament Galaxy Black and it looks fantastic and the supports just popped off cleanly.

Privacy cover for the Logitech C610 Webcam

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3435504.

I thought I had an original idea, but it seems others faced the same issue I had. Waking in the middle of the night to turn on the fan, only to accidentally flood the bedroom with light.

This is my take on it. In my case, my ceiling fans have standard pull-chains with a pull-chain coupling clasp at the end. This model is designed to accept this. Earlier drafts of this model just had the wider hole out the bottom, but I decided to make this a screw cap, so it was more pleasant. The screw cap isn't strictly necessary, but it looks much nicer with it.

I printed this on a Prusa i3 MK3S @ 0.1mm layer height in PLA and the screw cap fits perfectsly and snug enough I don't worry about it coming loose on its own.

It requires supports, but the separate cap helps to reduce the height of them a little.

I've included the Fusion 360 file. Be warned, this is only the second time I used it. LOL.

Fan Pull

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4553378.

There's a lot of phone stands already, but I wanted one that I could adjust the angle of display of my phone so I toyed with the idea of a simple ratchet like mechanism along with a hinge and it turned out really great!

This is entirely print in place. Once it completes printing, just gently break the ratchet off the edge of the back, then "break" the hinge and you're in business. This is my first time designing a print-in-place hinge and it really works well.

I printed mine in Galaxy Black with Silver Silk numerals on the ratchet. It looks really great, but unfortunately, photos of Galaxy Black are so hard to get right, so, I've supplied renders until I can get a good photo =).

The width of the phone tray in this particular version is selected to perfectly fit my phone, which is a iPhone X with a standard Apple case. Your phone may be different, so, I've also included a link to the shared design files (Fusion 360). There is a parameter "phone_thickness" that can be adjusted to fit your phone.

Link: https://a360.co/2CSG4wm

This particular version is for MMU2 owners, but, read on:

For single-color prints, simply load this project into PrusaSlicer (or whatever you use) and re-slice as a single-extruder/filament print. If you include the numerals component, there will not be any numerals on the side. If you remove the numerals component from the build plate in PrusaSlicer and reslice, the numerals will be printed as gaps in the first layer and are bridged on the 2nd layer which actually come out pretty well as recessed numerals.

Adjustable Phone Stand (PIP)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4152198.

So, I noticed a mouse in my garage and decided to remedy this. I have a 5-gallon bucket from Lowe's hardware store and noticed that it already had a spinning contraption built into its handle. So, I designed a finned bait-holder that can snap onto it. I also designed some "handle locks": blocks that ensure that the wire handle of the bucket remains upright.

Next, I fashioned a simple ramp to the handle from the floor with a piece of cardboard, smeared some peanut butter into the bait trays and set it in the garage. Within 30 minutes the mouse was already in the bucket.

Happy to share these STLs with others who would like a quick way to convert a 5-gallon bucket into a very effective multi-event mouse trap.

Here's the Fusion 360 files in case your bucket's handles have different dimensions: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2c9ef2d/shares/public/SH919a0QTf3c32634dcf82ec9cba828f015c

5 Gallon Bucket Mouse Trap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3590873.

This is a tiny little project (about 1 gram of filament), which simply creates a refrigerator magnet out of a 10mm diameter x 3mm neodymium magnet in the shape of a popular type of thumbtack.

I bought 35 of these magnets from Amazon (US) here https://www.amazon.com/Refrigerator-JACK-CHLOE-Stainless-Approximately/dp/B01MFHNHNW/ for about $9.00.

The final parts are about 18.5mm tall and make a nice size to hold your notes and such to any metallic surface.

**The design requires you to pause printing once the layer 3.5mm off the build plate completes.** If you're using a Prusa Printer, check out the gcode files here (https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/1817-push-pin-fridge-magnet) which will automatically pause the printer at the correct time and wait for you to insert your magnet.

I've included the Fusion 360 archive for this project so you can make your own with other magnet sizes. Also, I've posted a video here of how it works/how it was made: https://youtu.be/lAp39FZbVRQ.

Push Pin Fridge Magnet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571619.

So, I love the (Universal Auto Rewind Spool Holder)[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467]. And the "spool nut" it comes with fits my rolls of Prusament perfectly. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit my other brand of filament I use often, it's too small, so I created a parametric Fusion 360 file for other spools as I come across them.

The one I'm providing here is for 55mm inner diameter spools, which seems pretty common.

But, if you'd rather make a different size, I've added the design as a STEP file herein.

Parametric Spool Nut for the Universal Auto Rewind Spool Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3876646.

I had a look around and saw that there were some models like this already, but I wanted to make modifications and found that editing the STL files was a nightmare due to their construction in other programs. So, I set out to make my own version of this tray.

This was re-modeled from scratch in Fusion 360. I did, however, take some base measurements from the excellent work that was done by jonco223 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2991851). So, I'm not sure if this is considered a remix or what. I then added a slot for the J1772 adapter and a simple wall.

I was very pleasantly surprised that the first attempt at printing this piece came out well and fit the car perfectly (Thanks to jonco223's measurements). It is now in the car and being used. =)

Tesla Model 3 Tray w/J1772 storage slot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4166551.

I use Dollar Shave Club razors. In particular, I use their upgraded Executive razors/blades. I finally got tired of them falling out of our soap dishes in the shower, so, I designed this dual razor holder that clips on to the shower pipe (US "standard" size which measures about 20.75mm in diameter). It snaps on easily and holds tight and doesn't freely rotate, which is nice.

~Mine is printed in black, which is super hard to photograph, so~ I'm attaching a Fusion 360 render. It works really, really well! And, as a bonus, it keeps our razors out of reach of our child who is tall enough to use the shower, but too short to reach these razors now =)

Dollar Shave Club Razor Holder

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