Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5208707.

This is a scale model windmill designed for an O scale (Lionel) train set.  Scale is 1/4 inch equals 1 foot.  This model is approximately 10 inches tall or 40 foot scale.

Print 4 windmill sides and 1 of everything else.  An alternate head and rotor cap are included if you want your windmill blade to spin freely.

Note: The pump is very small and I had issues printing it.

a .step file is included if you want to change or personalize

O Scale Windmill

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4019964.

Building off of my earlier sliding valve air engine( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492963), here is a 2 cylinder version.  This design runs well, but it needs lots of air.  

Included in the files is a list of parts and hardware - See BOM_list.pdf.  There are also pictures to help set the eccentric orientation during assembly.

Also a .step file is included if you want to make changes.

Slider_3 was optimized for the single cylinder engine and may be a better option for this engine too.  It works well with Slider_2

Here are a couple videos of the engine in action.

https://youtu.be/QOqWBn9rho0

https://youtu.be/rPLHXZ8i-B4

2 Cylinder Sliding Valve Engine

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2797638.

In April of 1941 Popular Science Magazine had an article on how to build an oscillating steam engine.  This model is a reproduction of that engine using the part details in the article.  I tried to stay true to the parts in almost all aspects.  Some things were altered to allow 3D printing.

This model has a reversing lever that redirects the air flow to enable CW and CCW rotation.

While originally designed out of metal for use with steam, this engine runs on compressed air.  Please don't try steam.  It is a very leaky design.

This engine is running around 1500-1600 RPM.

Build Details:
1. While the Assembly list calls out 8 mm screws.  6 mm should work in most places, especially the cylinder heads. Item 3 12 mm screw can be shorter.
2. Spring is 23/64 Dia x 1 3/8 Long
3.  IMPORTANT: Make sure you assemble the lower cylinder cover (12) to the Piston before assembling the piston crank.  Attach with Super Glue.
4.  Assemble the Rocker Shaft (20) to the Cylinder(6) with Super Glue.
5.  The mating surfaces of the Cylinder(6), Reverser Plate(19) and Frame(9) need to be smooth.
6.  Parts 4 and 5 have been combined.


Please let me know if you need more details or find any issues. 

Enjoy

UPDATE: Added .step file of the assembly - 18 FEB 18

Video of engine in motion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9ak1Hcorfg
Video of engine in slow motion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iP8OPRIgomE


Link to Original Article
https://books.google.com/books?id=iycDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&dq=april+1941+popular+science&pg=PA188&hl=en#v=twopage&q&f=false

http://www.jefferyjensen.com/dw/engineer-mechanical/steamengines - About 1/2 way down the page.

Oscillating Steam (Air) Engine - 1941 Popular Mechanics Magazine

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492963.

This is a sliding valve air/steam engine.  It was inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34701 and built off of my Wobbler 2.0 components.

This engine uses 2 608ZZ Bearings.  There is a detailed bill of materials in the engine.pdf file.

25 JAN 18 - Update: Added orientation picture.  To my best recollection this is how i oriented the parts for printing.  Note: I did not print them all in one shot like shown....

27 AUG 17 - Update:  Slider_3 works very well.  Achieved 2700 RPM.

26 AUG 17 - Update: Per a comment from +Holzmichel two other sliders have been added.  Both of these are experimental as I have not tried them yet.  However I believe they will increase performance. .step files are included if you would like to modify.

UPDATE: Added crank_asm.pdf to help clarify assembly of the eccentric.

The engine in action.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Di-A5i6XyD0

I've attached a .step file of the assembly if you would like to remix or improve.

Please let me know if you have questions, suggestions or parts need fixed.

Thanks!

Sliding Valve Air Engine

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4642492.

Remixed from several designs.  This version is set up so both sizers can be kept together via a ring or something.

I used a sharpie to color the letters.  Had a couple of oops.



Imperial and Metric Screw Sizers

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1584608.

Based off of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1176934.

A wobbler type compressed air engine with main bearings and a display base.  When running (see video) achieved a speed of over 3300 RPM.

Bearings are 608ZZ.  Spring is 3/8 x 3/4 compression.  All bolts are M3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4mL_voC1g8

Included is a .step file of the assembly if you would like to make your own modifications.  Also a picture of how I printed some of the support parts.

Wobbler Engine 2.0

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4071907.

This is an extension of the USB port on a Prusa Mini.  

I designed this for 2 reasons.  
1.  Improve access to the USB port
2. Eliminate repeated used of the on-board port which could lead to reliability issues.

To make this work, you need a usb extension angle (see picture - Blue part must be like shown)  I got mine on amazon as part of a angle up/down set.

You also need 2 M3 x 10 Socket head cap screws.

To install the non angled end, insert it in the holder hole and rotate down to engage the holder tabs into the slots of the USB end.

USB Extension for Prusa Mini

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3934123.

This is a wall mount bracket designed to work with the Prusa T style spool holder posts.  Or, if you don't have those, an easy to print post.

Most spool holder posts on Thingiverse are designed to print in the Z direction, which is the weakest direction, or with a lot of supports.  By splitting the post in half you don't need support and will be applying force in the strongest direction of the print.

Installation is easy.  Insert the post into the holder and twist clockwise (looking from the back).  Install the bracket so the split in the post halves is vertical.


Wall Mounted Spool Holder (Fits Prusa T Style Post)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:942767.

A place to store your drumsticks on a drum kit with 1.5 IN [38.1 mm] tube frames.  

Can be set up for one or two sets of sticks.  See gallery.  

Hardware used:  
(1 or 2) 1/4 x 1.5" Carriage Bolts  
(1 or 2) 1/4 Wing Nuts  
(2) #10 x 3/4 Screws  
(2) #10 Nuts - I used nylon insert locking  

Print brackets as shown in gallery for best strength.  

A little short, but as tall as I could print.  



Drum Stick Holder for Drum Kits

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3084111.

I really liked the latest changes to the Prusa i3 MK3 Extruder.  However, I don't really like pulling the part cooling air from the heated bed.  1.  Maybe a little warmer ?.  Cooling off the bed faster?  The 45° fan configuration makes that worse.  This is my fix.  It also shields the fan from fingers, etc.

This inlet attempts to bring in cooler air and shield the bed.

I don't know, maybe it's just me.  :-)

Also, I made some modifications to the fan support.  Little smoother and a little more clearance for the extruder wires.

UPDATE:  Decided it needed something.  Added a PRUSA logo.  I am in the process of making one so not sure how it will turn out.   This might be really cool with multi color using the MMU 2.0

This is a much better logo -  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3346896

.step files on request.

10-2-20 - Added 4A which has a 3 mmm thicker upper left screw boss.  Per a request via comments.  Thanks for your feedback.



PRUSA MK3 AIR INLET 45°

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1595078.

I really liked the simplicity and design of LToyCreations filament cutter.  However it is a bit small for my hands and I was afraid I would lose it.  I built upon their idea by making it slightly bigger, adding shaped areas on each end for my fingers, and adding a loop so I could hang it.  Also, I didn't have the correct size spring so I made it work with one I had.

Spring is 3/8 x 3/4
Also added a M3 flat washer.
All other hardware is similar.



Filament Cutter - Ergo

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2625351.

The Y axis plates on my Flyingbear Tornado were not flat and this was causing the linear sliders to bind and not work smoothly.  These plates were designed to replace the bent metal plates.  

I have not had them installed for long, but they make a huge difference in operation.

Since they may be exposed to the heat from the bed, you may want to consider PETG or ABS.

Also, if you want drawings or files for the original metal plates, send me a note.  



Y Axis Plates - Flying Bear Tornado

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1862087.

Adapt a 50mm centrifugal fan to a 30mm axial fan

I have not printed this yet, so if you see an issue, please let me know asap.

Update: Added fan files.

50mm Centrifugal to 30mm Axial Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1308076.

This adaptation angles the 30 mm axial fan up and away from the bed.

30 deg (shown in pictures) and 45 deg options are included.

E3D-V6 Angled Fan Duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2458749.

Inspired by Kals spool holder, here is a version that can be hung off of 2020 Aluminum extrusions.

The rollers 625ZZ bearings.  They are a tight fit so you will need to press the bearings in.

There are two versions included.  Version 1 uses M5X16 screws. Version 2 uses M3X16 screws and M3 flat washers.

Installation on the extrusion is very simple.  Hook the lower edge of the frame into the lower opening in the extrusion and then pivot into position (See pictures)  Once installed they holders can be slid along the extrusion to fit your spool.

Install the spool by placing one rim in the rollers and then sliding the other frame to match the other spool rim.  Rotate the spool to make sure everything moves smoothly.

Revised:  Updated 5 mm sides - Opened 5 mm hole slightly to make installation easier.  Added a 5.25 mm countersunk section to help screw start straight.

Spool Holder for 2020 Aluminum

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4570562.

I am using a Wyze camera to monitor my printers.  I needed a bracket to mount the camera to a nearby wall.  After printing the bracket I found that I needed to angle the camera to get a good view of the printer bed.  That angle also tilted the camera horizon.  To fix that, I designed a 30 degree wedge.

Included are wedges for 30 degrees right and left.

.step files are included.

The bracket was mounted to the wedge with 3 mm flat head screws.  
Wall mount was with 4 mm or 5/32 flat head wood screws





Wall Bracket for Wyze Camera

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2889056.

These are similar to many of the others out there.  I just decided to model them after the feed wheels and handles on lathes and milling machines.

Like the others 2 - 8 mm x 3 mm magnets super glued on the back.

Thanks to Petclaud for this great idea.

I will warn you the knob is a little tough to print.  I may need to revisit this one someday.

Just for fun, I put one of the feed wheel 2's on the X axis stepper.  It really reminds me of a milling machine in operation.

Motor Rotation Indicator - Machinists Edition

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806844.

Based off of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1421326  This design works for 5 mm rods.

For a typical delta you will need 6 of each file and 6 - M3 x 6 socket head cap screws and 6 M3 nuts.

I only put it as in progress because I have not had it on the printer for more than a few hours.  If there are issues, I will post.

Spring Clip for Delta Printer Rods - 5 mm

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2926059.

This is a one piece version of Tush.  Bearings (608's) are pushed up through the holes in the bottom of the bracket and then they snap in place.

It takes a little concentration to get them snapped into the center of the bearing.  They snap easily over the outer race, but get a little tougher snapping into the inner race.

Bearings can be removed by continuing to push up out of the snap features.

I kept the infill low to allow better flexing of the snap features.

Also attached is the step file for the bracket.



TUSH - One Piece "Push" Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4289798.

This is a small tool box for the Prusa Mini.  It bolts to the frame rail with 3 mm 30 Series T nuts.  It also has slots for zip ties.  There is also a USB extension that sits on the side of the box.  I used a couple zip ties to keep it in place.

Important.  This is very close to the display ribbon cable.  Use care when installing.

The extension cable can be found on Amazon.  See https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4071907 for other details.

.step is included.


Tool box for Prusa Mini with USB extension

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1584636.

Bracket to suction cup a toll road transponder to your windshield.  Our transponder came with the Velcro pre-attached so I decided to design a bracket to work with that and a suction cup.

Included are .step files of the holder, transponder and suction cup.  

The suction cup came with our old transponder holder.  It is approximately 42 mm (1.6) in diameter.

UPDATE:  I printed my first one out of PLA.  I just noticed today that it has warped and needs to be replaced.  My guess is it got a little hot...

Will either reprint in ABS or High Temp PLA.  May also look into adding some more structure.



IPASS BRACKET

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037140.

An adapter to enable using a 50 mm axial fan on a 40 mm axial fan mounting.  Due to space constraints, you will need to thread the 4 mm bolts into the plastic.



50 mm axial fan to 40 mm axial fan reducer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157550.

These are some minor changes to parts of the Prusa MMU 2.0.  Like many I had issues with keeping the cutter blade in place.  To fix that, I added three pegs to the selector body and three matching holes in the blade holder.  While I was doing that, I noticed that the blade was not as far into the notch as I would have liked.  So I lowered the blade about .5 mm.

As I was looking at the CAD model, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080920 I noticed that the filament path had some sharp corners.  Chamfers and fillets were added in a few places.  See the .pdf file for details.

Update:  I should note that while it is still a work in progress. These parts have been printed and they function as expected.

PRUSA MMU2 Selector Improvements

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4612963.

I recently upgraded my Prusa MK3 heat break and hot block to the Slice Copperhead system.  I did this to help eliminate some of the filament jamming issues I have been having.  After the update, I found I had major overhang curling issues and plate adhesion issues with PLA.

Looking at how the new hot block and cooling duct are located, I felt that the current duct was not allowing the best cooling.  I created a new duct that would use up some of that empty space and direct air where it needed to go. (See pictures)

Initial tests of a problem part, showed that it worked with PLA at "normal" temperatures.

Cooling Duct for Prusa MK3 with Slice Hot End

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4289787.

This is a shroud to protect the filament fan and to help reduce pulling air from the heated bed.  Attachment is simple.  I used a 3 mm cap screw and nylock nut.  The clearance is tight and I thought a cap screw would work best.  It looks like you could get by with a socket head.  Check before running.

I also needed to re-seat my fan before it would install correctly.

.step included

Fan Shroud for Prusa Mini

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2673286.

This is an adapter to allow using a 30 mm fan on a flying bear dual hot end.  The existing set up used a 40 mm fan that was noisy and put a lot of air on the hot end and bed.  I tried to minimize the air flowing downward.

This thing has only been on my machine for a short time, so I can not tell how it would do on a long print job.

Feedback is greatly appreciated.

The fan is mounted to the adapter with M3x12 bolts.  The adapter is mounted to the hot end with M4 x 10 bolts I believe.  See the exploded view for details.

30mm Fan Adapter for Flying Bear Dual Nozzle Hot End

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1701164.

This is a simple light switch for a kossel mini type printer.  

What I really wanted to show was that 12 Volt .4 x .1 Waterproof LED strip lights will fit very nicely in 20 series Aluminum extrusions.  They put out a lot of light and fit snugly in the channel.  I ended up using 2 sets of 9 long LED strips.  I soldered wires to the terminals, covered with heat-shrink and wired to the power supply through the switch. You need an open end to slide the strip through.

9 LEDs sit just below the carriages when the nozzle is at Z=0

The hole in the plate fits a KCD11-101 Switch

Light Plate for Kossel Mini printer - LED Strip lights

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404180.

We have had the cover retainers break on a couple Genie garage door keypads.  This is one way to fix the problem.  It attaches to the existing opener with 2 M3 screws.  They need to be button or truss head to clear the keypad cover.

It is slightly tricky to install.  I suggest either tapping or pre-installing and then removing the screws to cut the threads before installing in the keypad.  

Genie Remote Keypad Fix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4289775.

I recently purchased an enclosure from Wham Bam.  While I really like the enclosure, it tends to move around when bumped.  I designed these feet to capture all 4 corners and allow some space on the bottom for anti-slip tape.  They also help keep the enclosure square.

.step included if you want to modify.

Corner for Wham Bam Enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4534895.

This design combines the button feature with the normal clip feature.  I also made this a little thicker and wider

I printed it on its' side with supports for the button hole.



Combination Mask Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2573729.

By request from another member.  This part allows you to use a 40 mm centrifugal fan in place of a 30 mm axial fan.

Because there is little room, you have to install the adapter to the 30 mm axial interface first.

I haven't made one of these yet, so I would be interested in your feedback.

Thanks,

40 mm Centrifugal to 30 mm Axial Adapter

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