Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4965759.

I'm remixing this superb model by @taichl to make multicolor printing easier.
I used light grey for "Color-A", dark grey for "Color-B", white for "Color-C" and black for "Color-D".

Note: The naming uses "Bow", "Stern", "Port" and "Starboard": https://tinyurl.com/t3kudk5f

- For 'f_tail_1_1x.stl' and 'f_tail_2_1x.stl', use the slicer to insert a M600 (filament change) command so that the base is printed in Color-B, and the text is printed in Color-A.

- For 'f_top_2_1x.stl', use filament change so the base is printed in Color-A, and the 4 top pieces are printed in Color-B.

- Instead of the original 'f_top_1x.stl', the files attached here, the files prefixed '2color Top' replace it.
Print '2color Top - Top.3mf' in Color-A and all other '2color Top' files are in Color-B.
The stripes are named to know where to insert them: 
SPOB means < Stern - Port Outer - Bow >
SPCB means < Stern - Port Center - Bow >
SPIB means < Stern - Port Inner - Bow >
SSIB means < Stern - Starboard Inner - Bow >
SSCB means < Stern - Starboard Center - Bow >
SSOB means < Stern - Starboard Outer - Bow >

Note: The text on the bottom face of the models is not intended to be printed (it should be shallower enough to be ignored by the slicer), as it only serves the purpose of identifying the pieces.

- Instead of the originals 'f_wing_a_1x.stl', 'f_wing_b_1x.stl', 'f_wing_c_1x.stl' and 'f_wing_d_1x.stl', the files prefixed '2color Port-Wing' and '2color Starboard-Wing' replace them.
'Bottom' and 'Top' are meant to printed in Color-A, while 'Center-Band' and 'Flaps' are meant to be printed in Color-B.

- For the original 'f_missile_4x.stl' (or the remix 'SG_F-302_missile-fixed-supported_4x.stl'), use filament change so that the base is printed in Color-C, the top in Color-B and the head in Color-C.

- For the original 'f_cockpit_3_1x.stl', print in Color-D.

- I advise to print 'f_connection_1_3x.stl' at several different scale, so that it's easier to assemble the model. I found that less force and a bit of glue was much move convenient for me. Only change X and Y scale, not Z scale: 100%, 95%, 90% and 85%.

- All the other original models can be printed as normal.

F-302 from Stargate by taichl - easy multicolor printing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5227949.

Modules to mount connectors onto the case in case of handwiring:
- TRRS connector
- Micro USB breakout
- USB-C breakout (the breakout collides with Amoeba PCBs if used together, so this needs some re-work - or a deeper case)
- A blank cover for the slave side

Redox rev1 modules for handwiring

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5196096.

Some covers to stop dirt from going into your keyboard while you're not using it.
For Corsair K70 (or similar), print the three parts and assemble.
For a 60%, print a half twice and assemble.
For a standalone numpad, just print once.
For a Sweet16, just print once.
For a Prime_M, just print once.
For a Redox rev1, print once nomral, and once mirrored.

Keyboard covers

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4968924.

I remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3095242 to get a 35 degrees mount, and used the thruster mount from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3746266

Wall mount for LEGO® NASA Apollo Saturn V (35deg)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736219.

This is to help bending diodes and resistors easily and perfectly to solder on Amoeba PCB.
I may also create another one to help bend the jumpers.

Amoeba Helper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791008.

The lock for the straps on our Silver Cross Pop broke. This is a replacement part for it.

Silver Cross Pram - Replacement part for straps

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501995.

Yet another one. Remodeled from scratch so it can be printed with 100% walls, no gaps, no tiny extrusion, better for fast printing, etc.
Edit 1: Further tweaked the design to reduce the gaps between walls
Edit 2020-07-18: Changed the design to rounded edges, based on feedback.

Ear Guard - All Wall

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780049.

This is a cover for the board of an Ender 3 to be used with a Noctua NF-A9x14 fan.

Ender 3 board cover for Noctua NF-A9x14

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780058.

Customised adjustable feet for Ender 3:
- Higher base
- Shorter and easier to mount than original design
- I did use with standard felt pads, but it seems not to be necessary (based on feedback from Reddit)

Customised Adjustable Feet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5172426.

Broke my Parker fountain pen and needed a quick replacement. I'm sure there's dozens of different models, this is for: Parker Vector Standard Fountain Pen. Please refer to the picture if necessary.

Parker Fountain Pen replacement body

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5249793.

Made an IoT Control Board to control smart switches via HomeAssistant. It uses Amobea PCBs to help with the wiring of keyboard switches and WS2812B LEDs. The code runs on a Wemos D1 mini. The hinge is made with M3 screws. The USB connection is with a micro-USB breakout board.
Code: https://pastebin.com/3TuSUZCF

IoT Control Board

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5249828.

5mm thick plate so that the switch come flush to the bottom of the plate. Once soldered, Amoeba PCBs hold the switch tight in place.

Redox - thicker plate

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780940.

The clip thingy for the straps on my pram Silver Cross Pop broke. I printed this to fix it.

Silver Cross Pop - Strap clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780187.

Lowered the roller to allow using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118    
The original also kept getting pulled out of the 4040 extrusion, so I made a bracket with T nuts to re-inforce it.    
I did not test the version attached here

Ender 3 Filament Guide - Lower roller

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4780129.

The bracket is 11mm longer, to align with Bondtech BMG. Everything else is the same.

Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide - Bondtech BMG

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