Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775622.

Years ago I saw that [John Leake, of RetroMacCast](http://retromaccast.ning.com/profiles/blogs/honey-i-shrunk-the-computer) built a 1/3 scale Macintosh. I was so envious... I really wanted one but didn't have the time or resources.

Times have changed and technology has moved on. Smaller, cheaper components and new fabrication methods have made the process far easier. I was able to made a smaller, cheaper and simpler version. Now you can make one for yourselves!

**[Here it is booting up!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjbPQUGdoFg)**

All of the instructions and supplies are on Instructables.com **[Making a Tiny Mac From a Raspberry Pi Zero](https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Tiny-Mac-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-Zero/)**

Check out the **[Macintosh Librarian's remix](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4887100)** for a great video summarizing the Instructable. 

MiniMacFrontPlain.stl was included if you wish to print it on it's side.

**03/25/2021** updated the MiniMacBack.stl file to allow for bulkier ribbon cables.
**06/17/2021** I've added a **V2 version**  to the instructable that moves the **[SD card to the disk drive slot](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAyGeRS2_lw)** on the front of the Mac.

Tiny Mac From a Raspberry Pi Zero W

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3144008.

The single spool holder worked great but I wanted to get multiple spools closer together inside my dry box.

Be very careful pushing in the bearings from the bottom. Keep them centered in the opening.  A file will help to make the tabs smoother. <em><strong>Careful... The tabs can crack on assembly</strong></em>. 

Double version of TUSH - One Piece "Push" Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303876.

THis is a remix. I liked the idea of the MMU "Wallet" design. The Prusa cradles just took up too much desktop space.

You'll need to print 4 of MMU-support.stl.

I've included a drawing of the support. It's 1/2 plywood attached to a piece of 2x4. I wanted the weight so it wouldn't easily tip. I added another piece of 2x4 just below the supports to ad a bit of extra weight.

The left and right side retainers are held on with sheet metal screws through the keyhole openings. I just held it up to the plywood and marked the holes. They are not screwed down tightly. Loose enough to slide up to remove.

I cut the acrylic on a laser cutter and have included pdfs. You'll need 2 of acrylic1256.pdf. You really don't need to cut them out with a laser cutter, I had it available. The tabs on the left make it easier to remove individual "pages" when you remove the left retainer so are really optional. The right side has notches in the corners. You might like to do that since it gives you easier access to the filament.

The upper and lower supports hold the PTFE tubing and are also attached with sheet metal screws. I have them tightened them down once I had an angle that worked for me.

You can see with my setup, I've 7 filaments available. I have PTFE tubes attached for each and just swap the top tubes when using one of the extra filaments.

There's a video of it in action. The filament jumps aren't edits, just quick realignments the filaments made on their own.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOaL-kCTF4w

MMU-Wallet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722707.

There are so many of these out there. The AAA batteries in others could get clogged. This should be fixed here. I modified this so that you could attach them side my side to form a block and allow for more storage. Mix and match as many as you need and connect with the wedges.

07/13/2021 fixed small step on the base of the AA holder.

Extendable Battery Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4965685.

I liked the design that this was based on but had a few issues. I don't include unaltered parts here. Look back to the original design by [vampyrex13](https://www.thingiverse.com/vampyrex13)

* the mount didn't sit completely flat on the carriage plate. The lower idler rollers are mounted on a slightly enlarged hole. This caused the support base to not sit fully flat.
* the fan duct was a bit too close to the bed in the front. I angled the duct down by 2 degrees
* the top of the duct printed pretty thin, so I thickened it a bit both top and bottom
* added strain relief for the cables.

As vampyrex13 did, I included 2 supports. One with a mount for an accelerometer and one without. I don't have one but used this version incase I want to try it later. The cable support allows you to insert the cables without disconnecting  them. Just route through the slot. The nuts are press fit.

You'll need:
* cable ties
* 5 - 12mm 3M cap screws, 2 more using the accelerometer mount
* 2 - 3M hex nuts, 2 more using the accelerometer mount
* 1 - 2M hex nut to attach the fan to the duct in the upper left. You can use the original screw... no need to use the bottom 2 screws.

**Note:**
My initial print quality with the BIQU H2 was poor. I got in touch with the company and they recommended changing the retraction to 1mm and the retraction speed to 15mm/s. Both worked really well for me.


Ender 6 BIQU H2 Mount, Strain relief and Fan duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4913773.

I really like the cable holder that this is based on. It allows for the mount to be installed without removing the harness. Wires enter through the rear slot. The sleeve pushes in to hit a stop. No wire tie is needed for the sleeve.

I modified the support to move the PTFE tube a bit to the left to align with the extruder, thickened the sides of the tube support and added a step in the support that allows space to wire tie the tube in place.

I recommend the rear mount that is was included with of the thing this was based on. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4764025

Pla / Infill 15% / supports active / 0.2 layer height

Ender 6 hotend cable mount remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3282741.

One of the first things that happened when I assembled my MMU2 was the screw fell out when opening the assembly to gain access to the filaments. I almost lost one of the springs.

I modified Prusa's control board cover and extended it to add a keeper for the screws. You can still see to adjust the screws and you can open the head fully without worrying about them falling out. You can still remove the screw fully by removing the control board cover.

MMU2 Tension Screw Keeper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164783.

I'm not using the spool cradles supplied by Prusa. The PTFE tubes get a bit wild. I printed this little clip to help keep them in line and not bend too much. It uses the same M3 socket head cap screws that Prusa uses.

**Update:** added narrower version

MMU2 PTFE helper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3144013.

I've been having problems with feeding material to my new MMU2 so while waiting for a solution on their forum I thought I would adapt my current moisture control solution for the MMU2. I found the the thing this is based on and adapted it to create a flange to hold the PTFE fitting (same as the original http://a.co/d/bXJCLVm)

I bought some more PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube http://a.co/d/efHZAR9 and set it up with break in the tube to allow the MMU2 to retract the filament.

This actually seems to be working great. Not only does the filament seem to be working on all 5 feed tubes, I now actually have counter space!

The single spool holder is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2926059
My remixed double version that works with it is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3144008

I used M3 screws and hex nuts... the same as Prusa uses.


Amazon "Festo" Holder moisture control (and better feeding)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2930445.

I remixed the original so as to lower the camera. It now points more towards the nozzle. The bracket moves less and still has the features I liked from the original design. It will pop off easily and it required no modification to the printer itself. The only downside of the design is that since it follows the z-axis, you really only see the object as it is printed. It is pretty much out of sight when it is finished. This is fine for me since I really want the webcam to check progress.

I printed it in PETG with no supports.

**Update:** I printed this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2446030 to make it easier to focus the webcam. I used #4 x 3/8" wood screws I had around.

I added 2 new .stl files
* lowers the camera even more
* moves camera out 2 different distances to clear the printhead. The more extended version shows more of the build plate and makes focus a bit easier but required more space
* changes the angle to point more at the print head.. 
* the final image is from the latest, longest arm (	C270_Mount_for_Original_Prusa_i3_3_1a.stl)


Tweaked C270 MOUNT PRUSA I3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3304030.

I made this to test my MMU2. With the exception of the first layer which is all one color and the last layer which is 2, every layer uses all 3 colors. Since there are some many changes, the waste block is large. I probably should have purged the white a bit more before since the white is a little pink. I really didn't change the default settings.

3 Color MMU2 Cube

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4934243.

This version of the Orbiter v1.5 extruder mount pulls from a number of models.

* It avoids the end stop and handles cable management.
* None of the cables need to be disconnected, they can be inserted through the slot in the back of the strain relief mount. The strain relief mount was based on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4717506.
* Wire tying the cables to the support keeps them in place and the Creality tube can be inserted easily into the support.

You will need
* 2 M3 20mm Socket Cap Screws
* 2 M2 8mm Socket Cap Screws
* 4 M3 Hex nuts
* 2 M5 40mm Hex Socket Flat Head Cap Screws
* 1 96mm PTFE tube to run between the Hotend and the extruder

Prior to installing the extruder mount on to the printer, carefully press the 4 Hex nuts into position and use a screw the Cap screw to pull the nuts into position. Remove these screws for now.

Remove the existing retaining clips from both ends of the cable tube. Unplug the wires from the distribution board. Remove the PFTE tube. Move the wires to the right of the Hotend.

You will need to mount assembly onto the plate **one screw at a time**. You don't want the assembly carriage to come completely free of the bar.

Remove the left screw for the top roller, being careful not to lose the stop nut or the spacer. Place the mount against the plate and insert the new M5 screw through the mount and the plate. Put on the spacer. Don't push the screw all the way through, only go as far as the end of the spacer. Place the roller in the correct position, slide the screw through and attach the stop nut. Do the same with the second screw.

Insert the PTFE tube fully into the Hotend,

Feed the other end of the tube into the small hole of the Orbiter. Mount the Orbiter onto the bracket using the the 8mm screws. Route the motor cable through the tube. If need be, you may need to carefully remove pins from connector, making note of the order.  I fed a piece of filament through the tube. I bent the end of the filament a bit. I taped the end of the cable to the bent end. I carefully pulled the cable through the tube. Reinsert the pins into the connector if you removed them.

Route the cables to the right and feed through the strain relief. Carefully wire tie the cables in place. Attach to the mount with the 2-20mm screws. Reinstall the the rear cable clip and reinstall the wires from the harness. 







Ender 6 Orbiter v1.5 extruder adapter with strain relief

Orbiter v1.5 extruder adapter for Ender 6 with strain relief

Former front end developer and still an Artist/Maker

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

cgenco