Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632226.

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Vehicle brake pad / shoe lining measurement gauge set.

Quickly measure brake pad wear without pulling the caliper off.

Three different labeling measurements.
Metric
Inches 32nds
Inches Decimals

Could be printed with a filament change when the lettering starts... I just painted the lettering.

Brake Pad Lining Gauge Measuring Set

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2304261.

Dust Collection adapter for an older model Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric) Biscuit Joiner.
Model # SLB-9100N

The original adapter did not fit a standard vacuum hose. New adapter fits a 1.25" (1 1/4") vacuum hose.

I do not believe this will fit the current model that Harbor Freight sells.
May fit other biscuit joiners that the HF version was modeled from.

Biscuit Joiner Vacuum / Dust Collection Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4626335.

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A simple motorized turntable using 3D printed and reclaimed parts.

Instructions can be found on Instructables here:
https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Motorized-Turntable/

Youtube Video here:
https://youtu.be/mUbfutkFsLQ



DIY Motorized Turntable

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4580010.

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Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 (?)
--- I can only assume this could work for the V2... don't have one to test with.
Part Cooling / Hotend Cooling - Upgrade "Kit"

Very lightweight
--- Original steel fan support and part cooling duct - around 50 grams
--- Upgrade Kit (all parts plus extra bits) - around 15 grams

Airflow is better directed and controlled
--- Original hotend fan just blows passively, even on the heater block
--- New shroud keeps air directed at "coldend" area and away from the heater block... less heat creep.
--- Original part cooling duct is inefficient, not directional enough
--- New duct directs more air at just the tip of the nozzle

Required (extra) bits and tools to complete the upgrade
--- Two (2) pieces of light gauge wire, at lease 100mm long each
--- Four (4) pieces of heat shrink tubing, to fit wire above, roughly 15-20mm long each
--- Minimum of three (3) plastic wire (zip) ties - one should be longer, at least 140mm or so - the other two can be shorter
--- Various Allen Hex Key wrenches (the ones that come with the machine are sufficient)
--- Side / Flush cutters, again, the ones that came with the machine are fine
--- Rotary Tool with sanding disk / drum / grinding wheel / etc. - we just need to shorten one screw by about a millimetre or so
--- Heat source for shrink tubing, a butane lighter is good enough
--- Soldering Iron and Solder - low wattage is sufficient, just need to solder the light gauge wires

Print all the parts first! 0.2 layer height ;)
--- Part cooling duct - no infill, 3 walls, 3 top / bottom layers
--- Hotend fan shroud - no infill, 3 walls, 3 top / bottom layers
--- Part cooling fan bracket, 25% infil (grid), 4 walls, 3 top / bottom layers
--- Fan Cover, solid infill, 3 walls, 3 top / bottom layers

Disassemble the fan housing
--- two screws for the fan cage
--- four screws holding the part cooling fan
--- four screws for the hotend fan

Save the screws, needed for reassembly!
Metal fan cage and part cooling duct are no longer needed

Extend the wires for part cooling fan
--- Need to be extended enough to get the part cooling fan comfortably to the left side of the extruder
--- Remove at least the last two zip ties from the bowden tube and wire loom to make this easier to work on

Reassembly
--- The hotend cooling duct slips over the heatsink from the top down.... Use the longer zip tie to secure it to the heatsink through the holes provided and around the back
--- Attach the part cooling fan bracket with the two screws from the old fan metal fan cage
--- reinstall the part cooling fan... Two of the 4 screws are a little longer, these should be used ate bottom to secure the fan and duct. You will need to shorten one of the shorter screws by about a millimeter or so... this the top outermost screw, otherwise it will hit the side of the hotend cooling fan... Route the fan wires behind the hotend heatsink... The part cooling duct is attached in the same fashion as the original.
--- Install the hotend fan using the original 4 screws from the metal fan cage... the sticker on the fan points in.
--- Install the hotend fan cover... Just a friction fit into the screw holes
--- Secure the bowden tube / wire loom with zip ties

NOTES
--- All parts where printed in PLA... I have had no issues so far with any of them melting or getting soft... Also note that I do also keep the silicone sock on my heater block... At the time of this post, this printer is only used to print other PLA's.

--- The heatsink cooling shroud and part cooling duct are remixes from...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3437925
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4419394

Let me know your thoughts and how this works out for you!  Thanks! :)

Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 - Part & Hotend Cooling Upgrade Kit

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4385153.

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Retaining ring / nut for KitchenAid stand mixer attachment, Food Grinder (FGA-2).

Depending on the tolerances of your printer, it may be necessary to increase the size by a few percent... the threads work great but can get a tight towards the end of the travel.

Printed in PLA, but PETG might be a better choice.

Be advised that while PLA and PETG are both "food safe" plastics, it is the method of manufacturing  (FDM printing), that may not be because of microscopic pores in the surface that food or bacteria could be become lodged.

Use at your own risk and judgement.

Reminder: PLA is NOT a dishwasher safe plastic. 

KitchenAid Food Grinder Attachment Retaining Ring / Nut

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4573011.

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A storage drawer for the Creality Ender 3 Pro.  Compartmentalized for various items, including 9 nozzles.

Designed to be no higher than the 40/40 extrusion of the base. Wanted the clearance below the bed for easy access to the leveling knobs.  Easy install, just slides into slots in extrusions.  Control panel and Y belt tensioner need to be temporarily removed for installation. 

A new, better, faster, stronger... ;)  drawer design has come to mind and will be uploaded soon.

If you would like to design your own drawer, the outer drawer dimensions are: 97mm across / 121.5mm deep / 31mm tall.

The drawer itself is printed as a one-piece print... The drawer 'cabinet' is printed as 5 separate panels that are to be glued together. As well as gluing on the drawer handle.  A "Super Glue" should be sufficient but a glue like "WELD-ON 16" works very well with PLA. 

Some objects will need to rotated in your slicer to "lay flat" for printing.

This does not fit the 'standard' Ender 3 as far as i know.



Storage Drawer for Creality Ender 3 Pro

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787070.

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Easy to print / build shelf for filament rolls.

Use inexpensive 8" x 10" pressed steel shelf brackets (see photos for sticker on bracket) and 3/4" electrical "emt" conduit.
Conduit can be cut via pipe cutter, hacksaw, dremel or your local home center may cut to length you need.
Conduit is captured in printed saddles, no glue or other affixing is needed.

Requires 3 screws (use whatever size fits well) and 1 zip tie per bracket to attach printed parts. Recommend to screw brackets into wall studs. Should carry the load of spools on every other stud (32" apart if standard 16" on center studs).

An 8 foot span should be able to hold 35-40 "standard" spools.

Will print without supports, although a little cleanup with a knife will be needed on the underside of the front (outer) part around the screw hole.

Like and comment or if you have any questions.

Easy (Inexpensive) Filament Spool Shelf

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4423255.

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I was in a need to provide face shields for young children.  Specifically in the 5-8(ish) age range.  As very little seemed to be available... I drew this up based on the 3DVerkstan design.

Used the standard (8.5"x11") clear projector or report cover sheets, cut in half.  An adjustable three hole punch was used but must be able to adjust the hole spacing to make it work.  

To set up the hole punch... Center hole must be at center, exactly 5.5" inches from fixed alignment edge. Hole to the left of center is 2 7/16" from center hole (center to center).  The hole to the right is 2 1/2" from the center (center to center).

Put the long edge of the cut sheet in the hole punch, aligning with the fixed alignment point and punch, removed flip sheet short side to short side, insert, punch again.  You should be left with 4 holes on one long side.

Punched sheet will fit very snugly to outermost pins and be quite tight around frame.

Printing:
2 bottom / 2 top layers
3 perimeters
.32 layer height (.4 nozzle)
NO infill
faster speeds / higher temps / very little to no part cooling

Single piece print speed for me is about 25 minutes using PLA.

Face Shield Frame - Sized for Child

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4381458.

Screw mounted wall/ceiling (wherever) closed eye hanger.

70mm long x 20mm wide x 35mm tall

Can accommodate up to a #8 screw.

Very sturdy, but print a higher temp and infill for stronger part.
Use good judgement for how much weight it can hold. 

Screw Mount Eye Hook / Eyelet / Hanger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311075.

A container / cup designed to look like a stack of large hex nuts.

Aprox. 90mm tall x 70mm round

Easy to print.


Hex Nut Container / Cup

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4344481.

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New larger thumb wheel design for my TronXY P802E. (sure it could be used with other things/printers as well).

Appox. 30mm across x 10mm high

Designed to capture an M3 nut for bed leveling.

Suggest to print in PETG, ABS, or similar.

If using the original plexi frame that came in the kit (or other similar printer), the rear clearance slot needs to be enlarged to accommodate the size (see photo). I was able to cut this away using a small, fine tooth hand saw for hobby/craft work.

Can be printed with or without support in the nut capture recess. really depends on your printer capabilities.

Bed Leveling Thumb wheels (Large - TronXY P802-E)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186272.

US Quarter Size
Shopping Cart Token / Coin
Reusable / Removable
Key Ring Attachable

For supermarket shopping carts... Aldi etc.

Customized version of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:93346

Created with Customizer! http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=93346



US Quarter Shopping Cart Coin (Aldi Super Market)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605208.

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Easy Upgrade for the Artillery Sidewinder X1...

For the size of the bed, the leveling wheels on the ASWX1 are tiny... My CE3Pro has larger leveling wheels.  No more...  Easy print, easy install.

A good press fit over the existing leveling wheels. I suggest removing the leveling wheels for installation.  Glue may not be necessary, but I put a few drops of CA on mine.

TIP: If your print is too big or too small to fit the leveling wheels properly... Adjust the size (scale) in your slicer accordingly.

See the photo for size comparison... from 50mm to 80mm!

Enjoy!

Bed Leveling Wheel Enlarging Ring - Artillery Sidewinder X1

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457740.

A miniature "sandwich-board" or "A-frame" style sidewalk sign that reads "Disney ZONE".

Print-in-place, hinged at the top and support arm in the middle.

Easy print, should work decently on just about any well tuned FDM printer.

Miniature A-Frame Sidewalk Sign "Disney ZONE"

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2150608.

Just a simple dust collector port for tools. Sized to accept a standard ShopVac hose of 2.25"

Dust Collection Port for Standard ShopVac

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2193289.

Spool holder for sample or small quantity filaments that are loose (not on a spool).

Designed to fit into a 3" (I.D.) cardboard tube. This size of tube is very common (in the US)... most rolls of tape (packing tape, masking tape, blue painters tape) are usually on a 3" (I.D.) cardboard core. As well as packaging tubes are commonly 3" (I.D.).

The outermost diameter of this print is 6" across (just fyi)

The center is sized to fit a common 608 "skate" bearing or can be left as-is.


Spool / Holder for Loose or Sample Filaments

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2145002.

Dust Collector upgrade for Rigid Table Saw (model #TS3650)

The original dust collector port attachment has only a 2.5" port for a standard Shop-Vac.
This adaptation allows for a 4" dust collector hose without the need for a 2.5" -> 4" adapter.

Update: Ver. 1.1 - Moved one mounting hole (was off by about 3/16"). Added bevel to slots so other part of assembly would fit better.



Dust Collection Port for Rigid Table Saw TS3650

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156066.

A Mickey Mouse-esque shaped box with two lids... With or without face.

UPDATE: Better version... lid did not fit well on Ver1... More tolerance on Ver2 and less material used.

Mickey Mouse "esque" Box - Updated Ver2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4320093.

Part cooling fan shroud for the Artillery Sidewinder X1... 

Wanted something small, lightweight and semi-circular. This is a remix of this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3923283 which is a remix based off the original Prusa mk3 design.

I didn't want the extra plate or the sensor mount... fits tightly inside the existing fan exhaust and a couple drops of super glue to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

Print with bottom down. no infill.

Printed with PLA for testing, seems to work fine... would print in PETG if always using higher temps.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 Part Cooling Fan Shroud

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236597.

Caps designed for 1" (inch) Stainless Steel Tubing with .625" (1/16") wall.
Mainly designed for MPCNC 525 "J" build.

Printed and tested with ABS.
They fit very nice and snuggly with ABS... may need to be filed a little if printed in PLA.

My previous cap design was not very good... Use this one instead.


Caps for 1 Inch Tubing V2 - MPCNC

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2216664.

UPDATE (4/8/2017): This design does not work very well... Print the new version instead.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236597

1" Tubing End Caps - .87" ID - .065 wall thickness

I designed these "mostly" for my build of the MPCNC 525 "J".
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517

One open and one closed.
Nice rounded exterior rim.

Maybe thinking ABS would work best? May have to increase scale by 1 or 2%?

NOTICE: At the time of publishing I have not printed and/or tested yet.
If you test them before I do please let me know in the comments.

1 Inch Tubing End Caps (.065" Wall)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4344426.

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The mount that comes with the Ring 2 Doorbell is 15 degrees... I needed 10 degrees... so here you go.

Mirror in your slicer for left or right angle.

I just printed in black PLA and seems to work fine at a (roof) covered location. Doorbell fits nice and snug in the recess, so no worries about any critters or bugs getting in behind. 


Ring 2 Doorbell Mount 10 Degree

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157062.

Thumb nuts for bed leveling screws.  Made as large as possible to accommodate large hands in tight spaces.

Use M3 hex nut... hex fits snug in PLA

Designed around TronXY P802E... Will probably fit other similar printers

UPDATE: 3/9/2017 - I suggest to anyone going to print these... use ABS or other that can withstand higher temps. I had originally printed these in PLA, after several uses I have noticed that the heat transferred from the the hot bed, through the screw and into the nut has actually melted the PLA slightly.  If you only print PLA or other plastics that only require very low temps it may not be an issue. I suspect the melting happened during my attempts to print ABS when the bed temps need to be 100+.


Bed Leveling Thumb Nut - TRONXY P802

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4292337.

Just a simple wall hook with single short peg.

Requires 1 screw to affix to... whatever. A (maximum) #8 wood screw will fit through the hole.

Simple Wall Hook - Single Short Peg

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2313957.

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Keyhole Pocket Inserts for woodworking and DIY projects.

You will need a 1" Forstner style drill bit. A 25mm (1" = 25.4mm) could work but will be much tighter. 
The recess (hole) will need to be 1/4" (6.5mm) deep for a flush fit.
I suggest using a drill press for the hole but can be carefully done by hand.

The insert will be very tight and has ridges around the outside to grip the wood.
It will (probably) need to be hammered into place.
Get it right the first time because they are very hard to remove once installed.

Also provided are two screw holes that fit #6 wood screws nicely. These will only be needed if you have the need for extra holding.
The insert could also be glued in... an epoxy would probably work well.

The keyhole is designed to accept the head and thread width of at least a #8 pan head screw. They are the common size of screw used with plastic drywall inserts. The keyhole also features a thicker area where the screw seats into place... This should make for easier installation by leaving the wall screw just a little "loose" but will tighten as the as the object is seated into place.

Let me know if you try these and how they work out.... Thanks.

Keyhole Pocket Inserts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163763.

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Miter Slot T-Nut for Table Saw or other tool with similar "T" slots

These are probably (most likely) going to fail if you tighten them toooo much.
But they should stay in place with minimal torque on the bolt / nut.
I printed them with really thick walls / top and bottom - see printer settings below.

Designed for:
1/4" x 20 Hex Nut or Bolt
3/4" Miter Slot with wider bottom groove

Dimensions of Miter Slot on my Table Saw (Rigid TS3650):
Overall Height: .42"
Upper Slot width: .759"
Lower Slot Width: .95"
Lower Slot Height: .157"

Top of T-Nut sits just shy from the top of the table for clamping / tightening.
T-Nut (as designed in my saw) has very little slop or play but moves freely in slot.
Hex nut or bolt fits very snug... no glue needed.

Print settings are what I hope makes for a fairly strong part

Table Saw / Miter Slot T-Nut

Simple Wall Hook

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