I purchased a Cajoe V1 cheap 30 dollar geiger counter off ali express, had an RTC and a SD card reader from a random electronics kit, added a step down converter and an switch and SPI small screen to make this odd combo device, that takes current time and outputs the number of events (geiger counter outputs in interupt signals so i have it waiting one second and counting how many radiation detections go off), using that and math i found online i was able to put all the outputs and times into a csv file that can be pulled to see the data in excel.

using a 9v batt


Geiger Coutner Case

GeigerCounterPicoBoxv16.stl

Original Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816376

Raspberry Pi Zero with Ethernet Hat Security Camera using NoIR Camera - Remix

SecurityCamBoxv2.stl

This is that old right of passage for many electronics learners, This is a DIY power supply, that takes a regular ATX power supply from a computer and with a makeshift wiring harness we have a multi-point variable power supply for circuit projects.

The Hex Nut caps only go on the left and right side panels, Both Front left and front right only need the caps on the front top and bottom tabs (super glued them together) then on the back left and right sides you need to add all four hex nuts and caps, i created a hex nut hole that is in each of the left and right side panels.

assembly notes:

I found it easier to get the bottoms and left and right side panel on one side then the other side and then put the tops on, last will be the the back panel then the front panel.

Superglued any pieces that didnt stay easy, also added an LED to the power switch but i did the wiring wrong on that part and so does not work (nor show in pictures) so as a random FYI, your powersupply does not want to see any resistance on the power-on switch wire.

I really had to tie down and bind all the excess cables from the power supply so be warned about space, as well a modular power supply would be ideal.

I also added a fuse blown LED to the back, you will need to wire the LEDs (and resistor if needed) in series with the fuse so that if it does blow the LED will light up and you can easily see which one is blown.

DIY Power Supply

BenchPowerSupplyFrontPanelv6.stl

I randomly bought these products over time no particular project other than making a combination case.

Here are the parts i used:

buck converter: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801357605715.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.275.427d1802D7JnSk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Oscilliscope: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832499526391.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.315.427d1802D7JnSk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Signal Generator: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801119315211.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.595.427d1802D7JnSk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

step down converter: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804401127386.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.427d1802D7JnSk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

12V 48Watt power supply: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802657514911.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.270.21ef1802zA6psk&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa


DIY Oscilliscope and Signal Generator Case

Oscilliscopev9.stl

This is my crappy Pico W RC car, made with:

    SG90 Continuous (360) motors x4
    2.5M 6mm Machined Screws x8
    Raspberry Pico W x1
    128x64 px Oled SPI Screen (yellow and blue) x1
    small RGB Led with build-in resistor x1
    small step-down DC to DC converter with XT60 connector x1
    flip switch x1


Crappy Pico W RC Car

RC-CarV2.3.stl

Summary

This is meant to work in conjunction with the DIY power Supply i designed also, this has a 50mmx50mmx10mm fan (usually found in 3d printer hotend cooling systems) its a 12V fan (with molex adapter) that will work with the already separated lines from the 24 pin atx computer harness i made. this has not been fully tested and would advise great caution when using the constant current device in this enclosure, though it does have active cooling I am not sure on both the thermal output of the device and im not sure the thermal dispassion with the fan. Thus i have limited the CC device to 45V out of the 60V max giving it about 75% max utilization. This works with WEGE WZ6012 power supply front panel also.

I created a 3mf file for the top as there was need for supports but only the painted kind.

I USED TONS OF HOT GLUE ON THIS ALSO!!! for insulation on the bottom and for making sure the device stays in the bottom half.

After doing this i was able to fully output the 45V and 12A, i was able to test with my Pencil soldering iron, at 24V and 4A, before adding this i was only able to output 10.2V and 4A and any more voltage the device would cutout while plugged in directly to the power supply 12V lines. now no longer cuts out.


Constant Current Device

Topv5.stl

For the top of the Yeti its a mostly snug fit. (Yeti Bottom in Blue also in Pic)

64oz Yeti Rambler Top cover

Yeti-top-V2.stl

This is just a simple shroud for a large yeti water bottle. it can be make in either TPU or PLA but we got better results with the PLA but that could be due to my quality of TPU (amazon basics...)


UPDATE: tightened the tolerance of the diameter it now sits snuggly and still easily removable

64oz Yeti Rambler Bottom

Yeti-boot-V1.3.stl

Yeti-boot-V2.stl

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