Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1589342.

This is Davision3D's excellent skelly model run through Netfabb Cloud Repair, Scaled up 150%, and then Re-Plated to fit better in a 200 x 200 bed.  For those of you that are pushing the 200mm width or length for some reason, you may want to further break the Arms plate into more than one print as it takes up nearly the entire bed.  I like to print this at .2mm with a .3mm nozzle with supports and raft.  At these settings, the head alone took 7 hours.

Please read the original thing description for assembly and complete description: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644370. 

I just uploaded this to save folks some time in re-plating.



Davision3d Articulated Skeleton at 150%

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3729871.

I sent my Oculus Quest facial interface pad and the left controller away to a 3D scanning company named CoKreeate (https://www.cokreeate.com/) where they scanned the parts with their Einscan SP scanner (by Shining 3D).  These scans are meant to be used as reference models for Oculus Quest accessories.  I simply ask that accessories created using these scans be released to the public domain here on Thingiverse.  Enjoy!  

The controllers are released as another thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3729872



Oculus Quest 1 Facial Interface Scan

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1646776.

I made this skull for a dinosaur-loving friend of my wife.  The design is modeled after the MakerBot "T-Rex Skull" http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335.  I went so far as to steal the T-Rex support base and rod.  The base was modified to rotate the rod 180 degrees and emboss the name "Triceratops" on it.  The rod is the same as the T-Rex.

The skull was a very involved conversion of the skull from the Triceratops skeleton model from the "Animal Gait Simulation Laboratory" web site at http://www.animalsimulation.org/page3/styled-11/.  I may convert the entire skeleton at some point but for now, just the skull.

I've designed support into the Skull and Jaw so no support generation should be needed.  However, you will need to let your slicer create a brim if you have any kind of bed adhesion issues.  Some finishing with an XActo knife will be required to finish it out after printing.  You may need to "adjust" the diameter of the jaw pivots or rod inserts by taking a slight amount of material off of either the rods or the holes.  This is my first attempt at designing supports and, although I learned a lot about the angles required to keep things printing smoothly, I probably over-did it in a few places and not enough in others.   Some better designer may wish to remix this with better supports.  I designed the supports to work down to 60% scale.

The prints in the pictures above were done in ABS.  A bit of flexibility is required to allow the jaw to widen enough to get the pins in the pivot holes.  I used Cura 15.04.6 for this and it didn't have any issues slicing the model.  Please let me know if it fails with other slicers. 

Edit: I need to give credit to Bill Sellers since it's his post that directed me to the resources: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218980 although it's not really a "remix" since I didn't use the models from his Thing but rather converted the original model from his web site msyelf.

Triceratops Skull

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3970347.

This is reference model of the Waldport 12V Battery Charger Protection Module available on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXH3V87.



Waldport Voltage Monitor/Cut-off

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613820.

Mock-up model of eBoot Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Step Down Module from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Mini DC to DC Converter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2049464.

MG946R Servo

MG946R Servo

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843623.

This is a compact tramming gauge housing for a desktop sized CNC router/mill.  This uses 1.6" faced dial indicators (AGD Group 1).  Specifically, this tool was designed for this dial indicator from Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BHHXGEG  You have to remove the backs from the indicators before inserting them into the tramming tool.

For these cheaper dial indicators, if you buy two of them, they may not be calibrated closely enough to function as tramming indicators.  For mine, I had to insert shims under the top cap of one until the stems of both indicators were the same length while at rest.

The hole in the top is designed for a 1/4-20 bolt thread to be tapped into and then I cut off the head of 1/4-20 x 3" bolt and threaded it into the top of the gauge to use as the shank.  You could probably use a 6mm bolt the same way.  The holes on the clamping surfaces on the outside edge of the gauge are set for 3mm screws with the bottom holes slightly enlarged for use with threaded inserts. 

This Thing was a heavily modified version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688277 so I credited the maker of that thing with a remix.  Thanks for that!

The example I printed from this STL was printed in Black Amazon Basics PETG with a .6 mm nozzle at 400 micron with 100% infill and it printed quite nicely.  Print it laying on its back with full supports to keep the screw holes open.

Compact Tramming Jig

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613824.

Box for Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Step Down Module like this one on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI

Mocked up a thing of the module too: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613820

Edit: I've updated the model 1) with a latches in the lid to hold it onto the box.  2) reduced the size to fit the module better. 3) added labels to the lid for + and - and an arrow to indicate In vs Out (the arrow points to out).  4) added a hole in the top to allow adjustment of the voltage with the lid on.

Mini DC to DC Converter Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613806.

This is a remix of Intentional3D's excellent Portal Gun:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1100601

Video of remix in action: https://youtu.be/80xivC-9lMo

I modified to fit an Arduino Nano (using emccarron's nano mounting base) and added mounts for the Adafruit 7 Segment display but the original mounting is still available as well.   Also, I split the handle from the base so each could be printed on a 200 x 200 bed separately and then glued together.  I've also affixed tabs to the corners of the base and top to alleviate warping if printed in solid ABS.  Finally, I've counter-sunk the top screw holes for beveled machine screws.

My version is powered by dual li-poly cells via a mini dc-dc converter module set to 5V. 

The Nano program is my own original work due to the different display, arduino, and rotary encoder I used.  I haven't decided whether to provide the source code.  The reason is because I would also have to provide schematics for wiring which would bring out the electronics and SE geeks to "correct" my evil DIY methods.  I kind of think that a major part of the enjoyment for these kinds of things is the innovation to figure out things for yourself and to customize for your own idea of how it should work.  At any rate, here's a list of the components I've used for this particular build:

Arduino Nano:
I used a clone that I don't even think is V3 so probably any Nano will work as long as the pins are standard, which I'd think they'd all be.

DC-DC Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Display: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJRW0DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CI636JU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rotary Encoder: https://www.adafruit.com/product/377

Knob: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2056

Plastic LED Bevel: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2171

Batterys: This style but any similar will work (x2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQE0SI4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10/31/2017: Included Wiring Schematic.
03/01/2018: Included PortalGun1.ino


Portal Gun with Arduino Nano Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1593846.

This is the Mustang pony emblem scanned and cleaned up with Fusion360 for 3D Printing.   The printed size is very close to the original emblem on the Ford Mustangs from the 1960's.

From the pictures above, the large emblem is at 100% and the smaller one is at 50%.  I printed these examples at .2 mm.

Update: I've uploaded a vertical version of the emblem.  Please print with Brim and Supports.  The result is much better than laying flat.

Mustang Pony Emblem

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1921211.

This is a wrap-around FPV monitor mount for the factory MLP4DMS transmitter for use with Tiny Whoop type of R/C toy.

My FPV monitor is the Andoer FPV RX-LCD5802 but I think that mounts for these kinds of monitors are pretty much all the same.  For this project, I stole the Boscam Monitor rx-lcd 5802 Mount from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1343763 and modified it slightly to angle the back spine to allow more room for the MLP4DMS antenna.  The monitor mount just slides into the slot on the back of the FPV monitor and the transmitter portion inserts over the antenna and then snaps around the bottom of the transmitter (see picture(s)).

The part that goes onto the transmitter was 3D scanned from my MLP4DMS and modeled in Meshmixer, Autodesk Fusion 360, and Microsoft 3D Builder and tabs for the monitor mount were affixed.

The monitor mount and the transmitter mount mate up using a 5mm x 50mm bolt. 

The transmitter mount is best printed antenna-hole-down and with full supports.  I didn't need a raft.

11/28/2016: Refined the transmitter wrap to fit better and re-oriented for faster and stronger printing.

Tiny Whoop Transmitter Monitor Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131428.

I needed a new full switch plate with a switch guard to replace the broken one in my garage that controls my furnace power.  I had problems with warping at the corners for the first few attempts so I added break-away "mouse ears" to the corners and they seemed to do the trick for my most recent print. 

I printed with ABS, .5 mm nozzle, .4 mm layers, Cura settings for "Touching Buildplate" support and "None" platform adhesion type, 100% infill.

The support had to be cleared from the hollow inside of the part but for me it wasn't too bad other than leaving a rough inner surface.

Single Switch Plate with Guard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2747405.

I designed some skins for 7Fish's awesome Articulated Serpent.  The skins are designed to be used with TPU or other flexible filament.  The thinnest sections are .3mm which can best be printed at .15 mm layers and 100% infill.  This allows one infill layer at each cross hatch direction which should give the thinnest, strongest, skin.  

To stick the wings to the serpent's wing ribs, I just used thin lines of 3M Scotch Adhesive putty.  This was effective at keeping the wings in place while folded or posing and also allowing them to be removed later.

Updated 1/5/2018 11:06 AM: Cleaned up the skin-to-rib attachment points.

Articulated Serpent Wing Skins

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3970355.

This is a reference model for the KNACRO PWM-to-Voltage Module 0% -100% PWM Converted to 0-10V Voltage.  Amazon item https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XB6J4FV/ 

KNACRO PWM-to-Voltage Module

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4310871.

Replaces MillRight Mega V Z limit switch assembly.  Standard roller switch mounting holes.  Adjusts up and down to contact the top of the Z plate.   Uses 3mm screws.

I used this switch on my build: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CGZBRPC



MillRight Mega V Z switch mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652084.

This is a remix of E3D cyclops and chimera dualextruder FLSUN Prusa i3 (2017) by pipa666 with changes for features I wanted in the model.

I modified the main carriage to contain a strain-relief loop and limit switch mount. I modified the Chimera mount to to remove the back section and added a SN04 mounting bracket to the right side as the sensor wouldn't fit at the back of the Chimera due to the orientation of the hot ends. I also bonded the "washer" model to the top of the Chimera mount model to increase it's strength a little further.

I'm posting this by request and am not interested in providing support.  Use this model at your own risk and make adjustments yourself as you see fit.  My one and only print of this is printed in PETG and has been in service for a little over a year although I've since made a version for a standard single-hotend V6 clone.

E3D chimera dualextruder FLSUN Prusa i3 (2017) Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1912055.

If you've ever removed an automatic transmission, you will usually wind up with a large pool of ATF on the floor of your garage if you don't plug the tail housing where the driveshaft yoke is inserted.   I had purchased such a plug at a car swap meet and the seller told me that it *should* fit a C4 so of course, when I went to use it, it wasn't even close.  It was then that I turned to my handy-dandy Geeetech Aluminum Prusa.  I mean that's the point of these things right?  This plug fits the Ford AOD and C4.  The two loops at the closed end are for threading wire through to keep the plug from accidentally being pulled out, which we all know is the kind of thing that happens at the least opportune time; usually when your face is directly beneath the tail housing.

Ford Automatic Transmission Tail Housing Plug

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2804164.

I just added Phr0z3n's tip holder from thing 1674674 and Damien68's iron holder from 2695550.  I printed it flat on the bed and used supports for the cleaning bin.  They weren't too difficult to remove.  I had to grind the edges off of the base of my helping hands to fit in the holder.  Printed it in ABS at 280 micron and 15% infill.

Solder Station with Iron Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2049448.

Just a 3D model of the Hitec HS-225MG servo.

Hitec HS-225MG Servo

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3859709.

The original NEMA 23 Cap thing at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1725841.

NEMA 24 steppers are evidently just slightly larger than NEMA 23 so this is a NEMA 23 cap resized for NEMA 24 (thanks eastlight_jim).

So, I took the original model and used the 2D profile for the basic dimensions and then re-modeled the whole thing so that the bolt holes and edges would line up with my stepper's case in addition to a slightly longer cable cover that is moved about .5 mm further out so the cap is easier to install and the cables interfere less.

I've only remixed the "Middle" version of the cap because that's the only one I need for my application.

This cap is modeled to use M3x30 screws which leaves about 2mm sticking out to thread into the back of the stepper case.

Thanks to Mynasru for the original design.


NEMA 24 Cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2049456.

Turnigy TGY-3225MG non Flat version.

Turnigy TGY-3225MG non Flat version.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054422.

A model of the Cherry E63 Micro Switch with a long lever.   P1310E.



Cherry E63 Micro Switch - Long lever

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3853087.

If you use a glass plate to help you tram your CNC per the various Youtube videos out there, you may currently use playing cards or such stacked at the corners to build up a level plate from which to tram your CNC cutting head.  I've designed this to be placed at each of the four corners of the glass plate to help level the glass plate prior to tramming.

The adjuster is designed to fit a 3mm glass plate and house 3mm nuts within the cavity at the outside edge with a 3mm screw threaded down through it.  The premise is that you would install one of these at each corner with each screw threaded about 1 mm out through the bottom and then set the plate on the CNC bed.  You would then run an indicator inserted into your spindle's collet to one corner of the plate where you would set the indicators zero.  Then run to each of the other three corners and adjust the screw up or down until each is at zero.  When all four corners are zero on the indicator, the plate is level and you may begin tramming your spindle in relation to the plate. The bed is then surfaced.

I hope this helps some of you.  It's saved me a lot of time such that I don't hesitate to tram my spindle every so often anymore and no more messing around with shims or playing cards.

I've oriented the model the way I find is easiest to clean up (the little square hole for the nut is a real pain if it's printed horizontally) but you can orient it for how it's best for you.


CNC Tramming Plate Adjuster

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