Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4846449.

I use the hotend of cr10s pro on my Ender 3 PRO. Nobody does this kind of upgrade much, but I have been using it this way for a long time and I am quite satisfied. Not many people use it this way. However, this hotend is definitely very successful. I have been using it for a long time and it has never been a problem. Also it is not very expensive.

However, this hotend is not well suited to the stock fan duct of the ender 3. That's why I remixed the satsana fan duct, a fan duct that I love very much, for this hotend.

This is NOT for the CR10S-Pro. This is for Ender 3 (3, Pro, V2) that has CR10S-Pro hotend. However, if you want, you can easily remix. I added the step file.

Remix Source Files: (Thingiverse wouldn't let me choose. That's why I'm writing here)
- Satsana Remix: [thing:4647053](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647053)
- Adjustable Fan Duct feature + Fan Grill idea inspired from: [thing:4794720](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4794720)
- Adjustable BL-Touch Mount: [thing:3148733](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148733)
- BL-Touch Cover Protector: [thing:4400925](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4400925)

Used Parts and Tools:
- CR10S Pro Hotend
- Stock 4040 Fan
- 24v 5015 Fan
- Adafruit Neopixel Stick (8x 5050 RGB LED) (This is optinal and requires a modern 32 bit mainboard + firmware configuration. If you want to add this to your 3d printer, check out 3dprintscape's neopixel conf video on youtube.)
- BLTouch (or 3D touch) (Optional and requires firmware configuration)
- x2 M4x17 Screws and Nuts (for 5015 fan)
- x2 M2x5 Screws and Nuts (for mounting the Neopixel Stick)
- x1 M3x10 Screw and Nut (for adjustable bltouch mount)

Print with PETG (or ABS) if it's possible. however, you can also print with pla if you want.
No parts require support. However, if you don't trust your printer, print the fan duct file using tree support.

-----------------------------------------

[TR] - CR10S Pro Hotendli Ender 3 Yazıcılar için Satsana Fan Duct Remix'i

Ender 3 Pro yazıcımda uzun bir süredir CR10S Pro hotendi kullanıyorum. Sanırım 7 ay filan oldu ve neredeyse hiçbir problem ile karşılaşmadım.

Fakat ender 3'ün stok baskı kafası bu hotend için pek uygun değil. Ana soğutma fanı soğutucu bloktan çok ısıtıcı bloğa üflüyor, baskı soğutma fanı ise hotend aşağıda kaldığından dolayı baskıdan çok nozzle'ın üst kısmına üflüyordu. Bu yüzden satsana fan duct'ı remixledim.

Bu fan duct kesinlikle hem hotend hem de baskı açısından bakıldığında stok fan ducta göre çok daha iyi bir performansa sahip. Sadece stok baskı soğutma fanına güvenmediğim için 5015 fan kullandım. Bulması kolay bir fan, 24v olduğundan emin olun yeterli.

Ayrıca remixe birkaç ek şey daha ekledim. 32 bit anakartınız varsa neopixel stick takabilirsiniz. Yüksekliği ayarlanabilir bltouch takma aparatı da mevcut. 

Gerekli Parçalar:
- CR10S Pro Hotend
- Stock 4040 Fan
- 24v 5015 Fan
- Adafruit Neopixel Stick (8x 5050 RGB LED) (İsteğe bağlı ve gelişmiş anakart + yazılım konfigürasyonu gerekli)
- BLTouch (or 3D touch) (İsteğe bağlı + yazılım konfigürasyonu gerekli)
- x2 M4x17 Vida ve somun (5015 fan için) (17mm vida bulmak pek kolay değil. O yüzden ben 20mmlik vidayı keserek kullandım) 
- x2 M2x5 Vida ve somun (Neopixel stick için)
- x1 M3x10 Vida ve somun (Bltouch aparatı için)

PETG (veya abs) ile basmanızı tavsiye ederim. PLA'da fazlasıyla iş görür fakat uzun süre dayanmasını istiyorsanız petg ile basın.
Hiçbir parça destek gerektirmiyor. Fakat fan duct'ı basmak biraz zorlayıcı olabilir. Eğer yazıcınıza güvenmiyorsanız o parçayı ağaç destek kullanarak basabilirsiniz.

Satsana Remix for CR10S Pro Hotend + Neopixel Stick + Adj. BLTouch Mount + 5015 FAN

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793758.

I made a simple carriage to use Ender 3 Pro as a cnc / engraving tool. I used RS775 DC motor and 19V 4A power supply.
RS775 is very successful in acrylic engraving and drilling. I haven't tried making PCBs yet, but I think it will be successful too. I will try as soon as possible.

How-to Guide: https://www.instructables.com/Using-Ender-3-Pro-As-CNC-Engraving-Tool/

Preview: https://youtu.be/RXK33pZkszY

Used Parts and Tools:
- Ender 3 / 3 Pro / V2 3D Printer (Obviously :))
- RS775 DC Motor 6000RPM
- 0.3-4mm Drill Chuck for 5mm Motor Shaft
- 12-40V 10A 400W PWM DC Motor Speed Controller
- Power Supply (I use 19V 4A adapter but you can use up to 36V / 7A)
- 150*150mm Transparent Acyrlic Sheet
- DC Power Jack and Power Button
- M4 Screws and cables...

Used Softwares:
- Solidworks 2017 (for 3D designs)
- Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0 (for slicing)
- Tinkercad Online (for svg to stl conversion)

UPDATE (03.07.2021):
[@MatessakCZE](https://www.thingiverse.com/matessakcze/designs) made a great contribution and made a holder (carriage) remix for [ProperPrinting's quick tool change design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369444). You can download the remix by [clicking here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898958) and you can do a quick change instead of removing and putting all the screws back in each time.

Using Ender 3 Pro as CNC / Engraving Tool

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4867040.

I made a simple housing for the ZB2L3 battery capacity tester. It contains ZB2L3 circuit, resistors and the 18650 battery holder. There's also enough space to add a little heatsink block on top of the resistors.

Only "Resistor Vent. Case.stl" requires support.

Parts: (Affiliate Links)
- ZB2L3 Battery Capacity Tester: [Banggood](https://www.banggood.com/custlink/GD3hj08LMU)
- 18650 Battery Box: [Banggood](https://www.banggood.com/1-Slots-18650-Battery-Box-Rechargeable-Battery-Holder-Board-for-1x18650-Batteries-DIY-kit-Case-p-1472104.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search)
- x4 M3x6 Screw: [Banggood](https://www.banggood.com/custlink/D3GRl6ZgvE)

ZB2L3 Case - 18650 Battery Capacity Tester Housing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4825410.

A holder for solder tip cleaning wire.

It's a simple little piece. It consists of two parts, top and bottom parts. You need to put a soldering tip cleaning wire inside.

You can print with PLA. It's okay as long as you don't get the soldering tip too close to the plastic.

Print TopPart.STL with supports. I recommend using tree supports to spend less material.

------------------------------------------------------------

[TR] - Lehim ucu temizleme teli için bir kap/tutucu.

Basit ve küçük bir parça. Üst ve alt kısım olmak üzere iki parçadan oluşuyor. Araya teli koyup kapağı kapatmanız gerekiyor.

PLA ile basabilirsiniz, lehim makinenizin ucu plastik kısma çok yaklaşmadığı sürece sıkıntı olmuyor.

TopPart.STL dosyasını destek kullanarak basın, ağaç destek kullanmanızı tavsiye ederim.



Soldering Tip Cleaning Wire Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868886.

Recently I started looking at interactive toys for my cat. I found good things, but I think most of them are unnecessarily expensive. So I started doing something myself and came up with this toy.

Normally, my cat doesn't like toys that moves around. However, she played with this toy for hours and still did not lose her interest.

It takes about 100 grams of filament to make it. Together with the filament and other parts, the total cost is about $15 (Except 3D printer, wire and soldering iron parts). It's a very fun toy to make. Your cat will probably like it too.

How-to Guide: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Interactive-Cat-Toy-9V-Battery-Powered/

3D Printed Interactive Cat Toy

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4802483.

Stand for 150mm Acyrlic Sheet (3mm thickness)

How to engrave acyrlic: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793758

Led Acyrlic Sign

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4836996.

A basic filament runout sensor.

Required Parts:
- Kw10 z5p Micro Switch (Or another switch of the same size)
- x3 M3x10mm Bolts and Nuts
- x2 M2x10mm Bolts and Nuts
- x2 Teflon Tube (about 20mm) (optional)

Connection:
You can use this sensor on any printer. Connect one of the pins of the switch to the data and the other to the GND pin. Thats it.
*I recommend using the C and NC pin of the micro switch.

Firmware Configuration:
- Find //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR and remove the slashes (//)
- Make sure the lines below are the same for you;
#define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true
#define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1 
#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP 

This configuration worked fine on my ender 3 pro printer with SKR mini e3 v2 motherboard. It will probably work for you too.
  


DIY Filament Runout Sensor

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