Decorative Yin and Yan Cats wall hanging.

This model is best viewed in X-ray mode

This is a pretty large print with a diameter of 350mm. If requested I might make smaller versions. Please let me know what size you would like.

This is also obviously a dual colour print. You can achieve this with a single hot end by doing a couple colour swaps. I used Prusa Slicer's multi tool option and set each colour to a different tool. I had to do 2 colour swaps, white-black-white. The black is only 2 layers thick if printed at 0.2mm layer height. It would be cool if you printed the first 2 layers then swapped to another colour to made the sides something different. Please show me what colours you go with!

This has to be printed face down to avoid a ton of support material, and the keyhole has a single layer to allow bridging, you can easily cut out that layer after completion.

Original model can be found here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/103388-black-cat-white-cat

Yin and Yan Cats

Cats Yin and Yan Flat v4.3mf

Note: It appears that Skull has been manufactured with differing thickness of cardboard for the disks and squares. My version is made for disks and squares with a thickness of 1.55mm and less which at the time of writing appears to cover all versions. Please check the thickness of your cardboard disks and squares before printing to avoid disappointment.

Thanks to Ajops and Djwilday for their previous work. I recently bought Skull and found the pieces have a lot of space to move around in the box after unpacking for the first time. I tried Djwilday's design but found the depth to be short by 1 player's worth of cards. Ajops's design is similar to Djwilday's except that it gives the full depth that is required. However I found that having the corners filled with plastic made it hard to retrieve the disks without inverting the box. Ajops also neglected to use any chamfers or fillets so the sharp edges aren't very finger friendly.

I designed my version to give full access to the corners where there is the most space available for fingers to get all the way to the bottom of the box. I also designed it to be square like Djwilday's design rather than slightly rectangular like Ajops. I feel the slight movement you get is a decent trade off vs being able to insert it the wrong way.

I have included 3 versions.

1. (The one in the photos) This is a mostly hollow shell. I made this one to save on material and weight. The walls being so thin aren't particularly strong, but they have enough strength where it's needed.

2. This is the same as 1 but solid so you can choose your own infill. If you go with 0 Infill you will probably save even more material than version 1.

3. This is the same as 2 however I have increased the foot print of the perimeters in case you have adhesion issues. This one should be the easiest print of all 3. The added stiffness, while a welcome addition isn't needed however as the original box takes care of that.

Skull or Skulls and Roses box insert

Note: It appears that Skull has been manufactured with differing thickness of cardboard for the disks and squares. My version is made for disks and squares with a thickness of 1.55mm and less which at the time of writing appears to cover all versions. Please check the thickness of your cardboard disks and squares before printing to avoid disappointment.

Thanks to Ajops and Djwilday for their previous work. I recently bought Skull and found the pieces have a lot of space to move around in the box after unpacking for the first time. I tried Djwilday's design but found the depth to be short by 1 player's worth of cards. Ajops's design is similar to Djwilday's except that it gives the full depth that is required. However I found that having the corners filled with plastic made it hard to retrieve the disks without inverting the box. Ajops also neglected to use any chamfers or fillets so the sharp edges aren't very finger friendly.

I designed my version to give full access to the corners where there is the most space available for fingers to get all the way to the bottom of the box. I also designed it to be square like Djwilday's design rather than slightly rectangular like Ajops. I feel the slight movement you get is a decent trade off vs being able to insert it the wrong way.

I have included 3 versions.

(The one in the photos) This is a mostly hollow shell. I made this one to save on material and weight. The walls being so thin aren't particularly strong, but they have enough strength where it's needed.

This is the same as 1 but solid so you can choose your own infill. If you go with 0 Infill you will probably save even more material than version 1.

This is the same as 2 however I have increased the foot print of the perimeters in case you have adhesion issues. This one should be the easiest print of all 3. The added stiffness, while a welcome addition isn't needed however as the original box takes care of that.

Skull Box Insert Hollow.3mf

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4656236.

Thanks to Patty'sLab for their model as a reference. I chose their design over others as their's looked quite sturdy, and I enjoyed being able to see how everything works at a glance. It is a much more interesting design that others. That being said I felt like they used too much material to achieve that goal, and the uniquely designed pegs that they used were too harsh on my toilet rolls even after sanding. 

The new design has been trimmed down and hollowed out, but still remains quite strong. It is also a much easier print than the honeycomb was. 
A new lock mechanism is in place in the form of a swing arm. There are no parts to be worn out if the lock is left in the unlocked position and the lock holds the peg quite securely. You can lock the peg with a simple tap of the mechanism which swings down into the locked position without guidance.
The newly shaped pegs retain the iconic shape but are rounded on top so that they don't bite into the cardboard, but the nature of 3d printing means that they still retain some grip preventing excessive roll off even without post processing. They are also slightly larger on the bottom for weight distribution, however I never had issues with the either these or the originals even though I printed them at 15% infill.

The pegs hold reasonably well if pushed in hard, or you can glue them.

I have included a step file that has everything in it. I will upload stls for different sizes or the original pegs with the lock modification upon request.

08/02/2021 Edit: Added double lock variant as per request

22/03/2021 Edit: Added no mounting hole version as per request

Quick Reload Toilet Paper Holder - Less material

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3993003.

This adapter allows you to use 18v Makita batteries in 18v Ozito/Einhell tools. The fit is close but not tight, so that the adapter doesn't move around in the tool or battery but also does not bind.

To complete this print you will need some 1mm thick copper sheet (I flattened a copper pipe which had 1.2mm thick walls, after flattening the thickness was about 0.9mm.) and you will need to solder the copper together as seen in the photos. I have included a sketch of the shapes that you need to make. Make 2x of each shape per adapter. The 21mm length is the one that gets bent to receive the tool contacts. The cheapest way to cut copper sheet is probably with a pair of tin snips. 

This will likely need to be printed in something more flexible than PLA. I printed in ABS but PETG should also be suitable.

I have included two versions, a one piece version and a 2 piece version. The 2 piece requires less support material but does need to be glued. I prefer the one piece version.

Thanks to whity and sportssedan for their original designs. whity's Makita adapter is fantastic but was too tight to fit so I have adjusted it and cut some holes for the contacts. 
I took inspiration from sportssedan's Ozito adapter design, especially the latch but I made it more flexible and all around bigger for ease of use and positive locking.

As a side note, I discovered the hard way that Aluminium is very hard to solder and had to change to copper which was much easier to work with. You can find 1mm copper sheet online, however you can also split a copper pipe and flatten it out if you have trouble sourcing a copper sheet.

Edit 28/04/2020: I made thte catch slightly taller and printed in PLA. Can confirm that PLA works fine.

Edit: 21/07/2020: I have added a version with a 35.5mm gap as requested by Kingphil18

18v Makita Battery to Ozito/Einhell Tool Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3493186.

I printed the original and found the airflow to be lacking in pull config. I get dry eye so I felt like it would be best if the fans were pulling rather than pushing. I made this one up and the airflow was increased so much I considered reducing the fan speed but in the end I was happy as it is.

My only complaint is that with headphones on over the Oculus you can hear the fan vibration, however I soon tuned it out.

I cut the holes in the facial interface in a similar manner to OP however I used a soldering iron with a chisel tip and removed all of the material below the air channel. I then cleaned up the surface and super glued the duct to the interface. Works a treat.

The space between the fans is large enough to house all of the original cable from the Noctuas (providing you are tidy about it) so I didn't have to cut the cable. I used wires with pins on the end to connect to the original connectors.

The switch is now complete, photo uploaded. Its tight, but it works! You can obviously adjust it's position simply by using different length cables. :)

P.S. The cooler in the photo didn't have any holes for screws. I added them by hand so only did 2. The model has holes for 4.

Edit: 25/03/2019
I found that the switch body on the side interfered with my headphones so I made a clip to attach it to the top strap, I also made a lid with a hole for the switch in case you wanted to install it there. I haven't printed it but I can't see any reason it wont work. You'll have to shorten the fan cables to fit it though.

Oculus Rift Cooler - Better Airflow

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3057168.

I was tired of various designs of spool holders failing or being generally annoying because they were two pieces joined together so I made a one piece spool holder. 

You'll have to print the bearing guides first (4 off) and press them onto the bearings. They are designed to be a tight fit on 608ZZ bearings, some of them I could press on with my hands, the others I had to tap with a hammer.

Next print the spool holders (2 off) making sure to leave clearance for the bearings to go on (yes I made that mistake). Turn off supports or you'll never get the bearings in. I found it was best to print them so that the bottoms are facing each other. You'll need to put a pause in the g-code, I also put code in to move the head away from the print just before the pause. For me the pause was at layer 54 but your mileage may vary. When the print pauses place the bearings on, again, a fairly right fit, just press until they bottom out, and hit continue.

The tray is optional, but recommended. They aren't the most stable things without it. The tray is designed to put the centres of the spool holders at 60mm apart. The tray is a fairly tight fit on the spool holders, You can use a hole on the bottom as a filament guide if you like. 

I took inspiration from each of the sources except for the cosmetic design of the tray which was a blatant knock off.

The top surface of the spool holder is just cause I wanted to learn how, purely cosmetic.



Happy printing!

One Piece Spool Roller

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2983347.

A friend of mine lives in a share house and wanted a bigger version of the Elephant cutlery strainer. I increased the X and Y to 150% and the Z to 125%. Teaspoons kinda disappear in there but it seems to be a good height for most other things.

I added a divider to help everything stand up. Again, teaspoons can slip under the divider so you may want to modify it, I don't mind that they slip under.

I included the original no support elephant strainer in the photos for reference. The original is blue, and this version is the pink.

Printed in Hobbyking Pink PLA at .2 layer height and mostly 10% infill, I used 40% under top layers . I started at 210 degrees which worked well for overhangs but when it came to top layers I found I was getting under extrusion so I bumped it to 220.

This is the no support version, however I did print this with a single line of support inside the trunk just in case, i just slid something inside and rammed out the support. If you print this without it leave a comment to let others know how you went.

Oh, uhhh, don't worry about the eye, that was an error in print settings, not in the model.

Print took 32 hours and about 550g of filament according to the software.

Modified in Fusion 360.

Bigger Elephant Cutlery Strainer - No Support - With or Without Divider

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907478.

As requested 2 years ago. Here is my attempt to improve the TP Dispenser. I have included each side for small printers and cube sections for printers that can accommodate them. I assume that any that can do a side can do a whole cube but there you go.

Not printed and untested. If you give it a go let me know how it goes together and ill update the description. 

Stackable Toilet Paper Dispenser V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151037.

I have an old Dyson DC35 and the battery was dying. Looked online and you can buy a replacement battery pretty cheap from the usual suspects. I decided that I wanted to go ridiculous and make my own using the original board in my existing battery.

This battery uses 12x 18650 batteries in a 6S 2P configuration, I used LG HG2 batteries for the high current (I probably could have gotten more capacity out of lower current batteries due to the 2P design but these are what I had on hand), all of the original electronics, and a 5s battery tester which I got from ebay. 

Additional hardware includes 3x M3 threaded inserts, and 3x M3 x 20~25mm bolts.

Support material is only required on the overhang on the top part of the neck, and on the shoulder at the front of the side pieces. everything else can be bridged 

I may remake this with thicker walls, but for now it seems to be holding up fine.

If you aren't familiar with working with lithium batteries please don't make this. Lithium batteries can leak harmful chemicals, catch fire, or even explode. You may think that my welds look pretty rough, that's because they are :).

Final note, I used to be able to vacuum 1 room, now I can vacuum the whole house on MAX setting and still have 75% left.

P.S. Some Dyson battery BMS are programmed to brick if the voltage drops below a certain level. Disconnect the BMS at your own risk. You may want to make before you break just in case :)

Dyson Type A Battery

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2969776.

I didn't want to glue mine so I printed it with nuts and bolts.

8 off square 3mm nuts
7 off M3 x 10mm bolts
1 off M3 x 14mm bolt

Simply set a pause in your Gcode immediately before the layer that covers the nuts and insert them at that time then resume.

I cleaned then heated my nuts in the oven to about printing temperature, the plastic had no problem sticking to the tops of the nuts. 

I removed the controller stand and printed that version as my mate doesn't use a controller.

*CAUTION*  I added the controller stand back and moved the position of the hole, this is untested. Don't blame me if it doesn't work out (although it looks good to me). 

As with the others the only support I used was in the big hole on the mount. I used multiple processes to make the tops look good but keep print time down.

Oculus Stand - Screw Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3014467.

In my work I use a lot of 9v batteries, business cards and stickers. I made this to fit inside my tool bag and make all 3 accessible. 

The battery dispenser can hold up to 8 batteries per stack for a total of 24 batteries. The Battery grippers should be printed in flex and glued in place. I find that the batteries tend to bounce in the back of my ute and work their way out of the dispenser without the grippers.

The Card Dispenser can hold more than 500 cards, maybe up to 900.

The sticker dispenser holds a roll of 1000 stickers although your mileage will vary with sticker size.

The battery dispenser and card dispenser can be printed and used on their own however the sticker dispenser will need modification to be used on its own.

The card dispenser lid is a loose fit so I included a lid lock, you could always thicken the lid slightly to make it a tight fit.

I included a device to help with bending the springs, I admit its not the best, but I bent 10 springs with it, couldn't be that bad right? They came out much better than when I bent the springs with pliers. If I were to make another I'd try threaded inserts rather than square nuts, or maybe printed platforms rather than screws.

Combination 9v Battery Dispenser + Business card Dispenser + Sticker Dispenser

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922656.

So after making a low poly chicken ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922636 ), I made a low poly rooster to keep the chicken company! Yay!

Thanks to iPa64 for the original clean version of the rooster and joerodman for the idea to split it for printing, that tail is nuts.

You'll need to use the lay flat feature to lay the flat sides on your bed, sorry I'm lazy.

This time I used 4 perimeters and 10% infill. Looks pretty good. I printed this in PETG

Low poly rooster

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010416.

I got some 500x500x2.5mm perspex cheap and I didn't want to cut this up any more than I had to. I extended the top leg extensions to fit and modified the hinges to be a tight fit. The perspex ended up being 2.3 rather than 2.5 thick and these hinges are very tight. 

I also reworked the top perspex holders to be magnetic so i can easily remove the sides and back. 

All magnets used are 12x3mm round magnets that I had on hand.

Edit: the vertical clearance is 505mm

Edit: Added handles for 3mm perspex. The top corners will take 3mm already, and the bottom corners are unchanged from the original, you just need to get the original hinges for the doors.

Edit: 18/08/18 Added no perspex extension and foot.

Prusa ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - 2.5mm perspex, 12x3mm round magnets and 60mm leg extenstion

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571429.

I like the original design but its really big and requires a lot of support material. To make this more accessible to people I have split up the original design into smaller parts. 

For large printers you can print just 4 parts, Top, Back, Side A and Side B
For small printers you can print 9 parts, Top 1 Top 2 Top 3, Back 1 Back 2, Side A 1 Side A 2, Side B 1 Side B 2.

print with PLA and join with super glue. 

PC Test Bench (for smaller printers)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3014848.

I didn't like the look of the original and I didn't need the stand, so I changed it.

Mind you, I have not and will not be printing this as I bought a Makita one. I just couldn't resist doing the work anyway.

Slimmed down the overall design slightly, removed the stand, strengthened the standoffs, added an airflow vent, corrected the size so the top and bottom match, generally made the design more aesthetically pleasing.

I considered adding a spot for a Makita belt clip but I didn't get around to it.

The holes for the screws for the usb boards are tiny as per the original, you can resize them for the screws you have. Otherwise you can probably melt in some inserts or something.

If you print this please let me know how you went in the comments. If this needs fixing I'm willing to fix it.

*Edit* I added a version with a printed in terminal appropriated from mojo_replica's thing.

Smoother Makita LXT USB Charger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3237078.

This design requires 1x 1/4" -20 1" hex head bolts. I used stainless steel. You could probably use 3/4" long bolts instead.

Optional
1x m3x12mm Alan key bolts
1x m3 nuts

You can screw this to the wall or use double sided tape or something.

Takes about 1 hr to print. I used 2 outlines, 10% infill, 5 tops and bottoms, and a 0.2mm layer height.

I made these for a mate of mine, he likes the ball and socket design but I didn't want to print so much plastic, and he wants to mount his sensors to the ceiling so the other design isn't optimal anyway.

I remade the socket from scratch, although I followed the design closely. I used the same ball except I continued the hole all the way through (for some reason there was a layer on the inside end of the hole) and I reduced the depth of the cut out for the hex head to fit a 1"  bolt as that was all I could buy.

*Edit* I have added an untested knob at the request of cooasty. It will require about a 25mm M3 bolt. I have sized it so you may be able to screw the bolt into the knob but you may need to glue it. 

Short wall/ceiling Ball and socket Oculus sensor mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4559210.

Thanks to 3DBROOKLYN for the original design.

My girlfriend drinks 200ml cans of coke so I made her a handle. 

I modeled the design using the original as reference for the handle. I saw a comment regarding a drop in piece to make the base of the handle more stable which I incorporated as the can was less stable once in the handle without it.

I originally designed it with 0 clearance as my printer can handle that, but I have added about a 0.4mm clearance. Let me know if there are any issues.

Print the two pieces. Fit the round piece into the groove on the base of the handle piece, insert a can into the base and flex the handle to clip in the can.

I printed this with 2 walls at 0.4mm, 4 tops and bottoms at 0.2mm layer height and 10% infill in PLA.

200ml Can Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4127178.

Thanks to LoCoCNC and D_jespersen for their original designs.

I wanted a pulley/belt cover, but I also wanted to use a cable chain, so I unceremoniously mashed these two designs together. I've printed it and it works perfectly however you need to replace the 4 screws with 20mm M3 screws.

Its a bit of a rough remix but it does the job. If the original designers could send me the originals in a format that fusion360 can read I'll redo it a bit better.

Ender 5 X Axis Cable Chain Adapter with cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225673.

The original riser that came with the x56 interfered with my wrist when I pushed the stick forward and with my pinky when I pressed the pinky button. This one doesn't have those issues. I used the same thickness as the original

Its a snug fit but could use a little refinement around the stick. 

I have edited the file to remove the empty spaces underneath (as seen in the photos) as they were irrelevant and made the print take more time and material vs a 10% infill.

Edit: 01/04/2020:
I lost my riser so I added a lip on the bottom which locks the riser in place. Probably use a flexible material like petg or abs rather than pla.

x55 x56 stick hand riser

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543625.

I printed the original Compliant SMD Magazines to hold nickel strips and smd components but I didn't have anywhere good to keep my roll of solder. Well, I found a good spot, in a magazine :).

Print the 2 halves and glue together, then put the bar through your roll of solder and drop into place. I printed mine in ABS so I used acetone as glue.

For reference my roll is 57.3mm tall, 56.7mm round and the hole is 17.6mm.

I designed this with 0 clearance as my printer can handle this. I would suggest you reduce the x and y of the bar by 1% or 2% .. or whatever suits your printer.

I didn't spend much time on this but it works fine, please improve on it!

Compliant SMD Magazine Solder module

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3167017.

Thanks to AOL06 and aleung for the original designs. I started with aleung's design as a base but basically remade it from scratch.

Changes:

I don't think a plastic guide would survive a drill bit anyway so I have omitted this function. To that end I also shortened the 'guide' which now functions as a dust shield which should deposit the dust into the bowl below. Additionally the center hole is now 15mm so you can fit up to a 13mm drill bit. 

I have increased the fillet in the bowl for easier cleaning, and chamfered or filleted everything for pretties.

The bowl also ended up slightly smaller by the end of the process.

Disclaimer: I have not printed this, please let me know how it goes.

Edit: Added a V2 without the bevel on the back as suggested by kickasskingy.

Drilling dust collector

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4892982.

This is a slim case for a Chargie. The original case is a 3d printed snap together design which is fine, but it felt too bulky for what the device is. I designed this case to slim down the overall profile. Note: The manufacturer does say that they plan to change the case in the future to something more polished.


What is a Chargie?

A Chargie is a hardware device that communicates with your phone or other similar device while it is charging to protect your battery.

Why would you want a Chargie?

TLDR: to extend the life of your android and iOS devices.

Edit: Some people use repurposed mobile phones to run distributed computing projects like World Community Grid, Folding@Home, Setti, Einstein, Rosetta etc. These projects take  a lot of processing power and all but require your device to be powered directly from the wall at all times. This very quickly destroys the battery which renders the phone inoperable. A Chargie can prolong the life of the battery almost indefinitely by maintaining the charge around the magic 40% level. If you have spare devices, or some money to donate via your power bill (or free electricity) please consider donating your processing time to one or two of these causes.

Lithium batteries wear out as you charge and discharge them. the closer to 40% you keep a lithium battery the longer they last. In particular, the top and bottom 20% (below 20% and above 80%) cause the most wear to your battery. If you tend to keep your devices for more than about 2 years, you are a heavy user of your device or you leave your device on charge for extended periods of time (ie. overnight or longer), then you may notice that your battery performance degrades over time. A Chargie is designed to prevent your device from charging over a percentage that you set helping it last for many years rather than the usual "up to 2 years". By charging your battery in this way you may get more life out of the battery than the device. Electric vehicles are charged in the same manner to extend the life of the vehicle's batteries and these batteries have proven to last over 10 years with minimal degradation. 


Can you sell me a Chargie?

No, I am not affiliated with the Chargie brand, I just designed a case. You can find them over at chargie.org. Let them know I sent you. Oh, I won't get any kickback or anything, I just thought it would be funny for a bunch of people to tell them I sent them. I'd love to see the looks on their faces.


Printing advice?

I printed these is eSUN ABS+ because I plan to use at least 1 in my car and I don't want it to turn into a blob, otherwise its a very easy print, no overhangs, no bridges, no support. Minimum 2 walls. I used 0.4mm line width, 0.16mm layer thickness, and 5 tops, bottoms and shells. 

The Chargie board is a gentle friction fit (I guess I could have made it tighter), and the two pieces friction fit together so that they stay in place but slide apart when provoked. You may need to adjust the sizing per your own printer.

Chargie slimmer case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016082.

I made it smaller :)

I haven't printed this, please let me know how it goes in the comments.


*Edit* I added a version with a printed in terminal appropriated from mojo_replica's thing.

*Edit* Fixed clearance

Slimmer Makita LXT USB Charger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696232.

I was going to make Gnizten's model when I saw that they already did it! Thanks!

However, I try to print support free, and his model was on an angle which is an issue for some. I adjusted the angle, removed the lip to make the front flat, and put a layer under the screw holes for bridging instead of support.

As yet unprinted, but no issues expected.

Edit: Now printed, as yet untested. Awaiting parts.

Enjoy!

Ender 5 Plus - Improved TFT35 Display mount - No Support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4253998.

Thanks to PhilT4 for the great design, I just simplified it with a flat bottom and I included an optional 4x length version. I have printed it but I am too lazy to take photos right now. 

Supports are needed

Makita Battery Holder Simplified

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3132131.

I needed to store my spools on a table top and I had already decided to use 19mm square aluminum tube.

I designed this bracket to be used with or without fixings to hold 200mm diameter spools on a table top. If you want the bars closer or further apart, let me know and Ill make a custom design for you.


Bench mount spool rack

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225479.

I resized the cap to fit on the analogue sticks on the throttle and stick.

Like with the original design, resize the cap to suit your printer. I had to size down the x and y on this cap by 1% to make it a tight fit.


x56 thumb stick cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4357487.

Thanks to francfalco for the original.

I removed some of the aesthetic parts to reduce the amount of support that would be required. I will print this later today and upload a photo but I don't foresee any printability problems.

Mini caballete easel - less support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922636.

It's a low poly chicken, what more could you want?

Thanks to dejavuus for the original.

This Chicken balances quite well on its own however the legs are very thin and you may want to add a disk for it to stand on to give it some more strength. I gave the legs 4 perimeters and 80% fill but I dropped it from about 500mm and one of the legs still snapped off. Glued it back on and it looks fine. 

The main body I printed with 0% fill. If you aren't familiar with printing overhangs then you'll want to use a 10% fill as the back is quite flat in some areas. You'll see in the photo that the back on my print is quite thin. I think my print temp was 5 degrees too high to have 0 infill.

I used supports in some areas such as between the legs, under the tail and under the chin but you might be able to get away with not using them if you know what you are doing (I'm still new to printing).

You might want to scale this up as I did, it's pretty small.

Also, no I don't have a photo without the supports, I have already given this as a gift.

Low Poly Chicken

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