Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4123628.

UPDATE 2-7-2020 - After playing with the plug version I thought it was a little wobbly for my taste so I thinned out the bottom rung a bit to make it sit closer to the base(s) and not wobble so much. Filename is - Plug-Thinner-bottom-Final.stl - for the thinner rung. It does work better IMO but the first one still works also. Playing around with the idea to incorporate the bearing into the plug but that would have to really be printed perfect or it would make getting the bearings rolling really hard so I doubt that is going to happen...maybe, but doubtful. Hoping this is the last update for this.

UPDATE 1-25-2020 - So I thought about it and figured I would make a version without the big insert so I created a plug and made the cup holes bigger to accommodate it. You will have to use the new cups for the plugs if you want the plug version...I have not printed the plug in vase mode as it needs to be a little strong as you will be able to tell with how tight everything fits. Shove the bearing into the plug...don't be shy as it is a tight fit. Push it in the whole way. now shove the plug into the hole on the bottom of the cup..again it will be tight. I left a lip on the plug in case someone needed to put a dab of super glue around the edge to hold it to the cup without interfering with the bearing. Thats it. The cups do wobble a little more due to the raised lip holding them off the base a bit further. You can cut the hole larger on the original cups if you don't want to print new ones! Hole should be about 23.4mm to make a really tight fit. I posted a make of this so people would get updated to the new design. Still use vase mode on cups!!!! The plug uses 1g of filament (again Cura said that so its close...) so the same as the insert, just takes up less room in the cup.

BOTH DESIGNS WORK FINE!!! it is just to give everyone a choice (Where is Neo or the Oracle when you need them to tell you that you already made the choice you just have to understand why).

So being poor and looking to save money on filament, I decide to do these in vase mode to see what would happen. It worked...mostly. There was of course a hole for the bearing but because vase mode has no top it was open, so I made a small insert that spins down inside to cover the bearing...easy peasy!

I used parts from everybody it seems to do this lol I included all the stl files I used. Hopefully that is ok. If not, let me know and I will delete yours from this post.

Again being cheap I did not buy bearings, I printed them. the bearings fit inside the opening at the bottom of the cup just fine and they spin just fine too. If you are concerned about the bearings staying in place then you could glue them into the hole in  the cup but I don't seem to be having any problems at all.

So just print the cups in vase mode - whatever settings you like, up to you. I used .2mm with just 2 bottom layers and ran them at 100mms on my Ender 5. Then print the inserts - I included the reverse one also just incase you did not know how to do that in your slicer - and use the same settings as the cups. When done just turn them over so the open side is down and let them twirl to the bottom of the cup to cover the bearing and keep anything from sticking in it and jamming it up. You don't have to use them but I didn't like the bearings being sticking up like that if I put pencils or pens in it.

Of course the base still needs to print normally.

In cura it said the normal cup would take 105 grams of filament and take 11+ hours to print at .2mm. Vase mode is 23 grams and 1 hour 45 minutes. The inserts are 2 grams and take 13 minutes each. You can print 4 of them in vase mode with inserts for the same (little less really) filament. Did I say I am cheap and poor :)

Have fun!

Vase Mode Helical Gear Cups

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4037213.

Just extended the bottom portion cause someone asked in the comments on the original post about doing it to make it so the keys wont bang against the wall or door where you have it.

Just playing around since I am a newbie ;)

Key hook and tray with extended back

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4248421.

I took the Nautilus Shell Speaker design and made it hold a Google Home Mini. My wife actually wanted me to do this so I hopped right to it since she thinks everything else I print is stupid ;)

Took me a long time to do this. Tried with the nautilus shell design that was just a wall hanging and that was a disaster then I found this one i used to remix from and it was a ton better but still went through almost 2 full rolls of filament to get it prototyped. The so-called final version in the pictures has a layer shift due to support failing on me but I said its good enough (so did she). I may print it again sometime just to make it look a little prettier on the back side but it works so no hurry.

The 3mf file I uploaded is my Cura file that has support blockers included (sometimes they show up at the right places, sometimes they dont - no idea why so you may have to move them around). You want to make sure no support is on the inside of the shell or the entire back part as it doesn't need it (as long as your printer is doing a good job). You want support in the front opening and the bottom to give some support for printing but NOWHERE ELSE. If you get support on the inside you will never get it out. I uploaded a picture of the support blocker placement as Cura on my end wants to keep moving the bottom one around - BAD CURA!.

I included the SPIKES used for displaying that EricSinclair used for the speaker. I had to drill the holes a shade bigger in the shell to get them to fit properly. Maybe it is my printer being a bit off or whatnot but just so you know. I did not want to force them because I didnt want to break the shell. I think I used a 15/64th bit (About 6mm from what Google tells me). 

This will take a good bit of filament (almost half a roll) if you use the settings i did. If you opt for more infill or more supports then it will of course take more. Time is a good 30+ hours, again depending on resolution, speed, infill and supports you use. I printed at 80mm/s.

Would love to see makes!

Decided to upload my Cura profile also that I used....REMEMBER - I have an Ender 5 with a BLTOUCH so you may have to edit the starting gcode to eliminate the G29 if you do not have auto bed leveling (If it carries it with the profile, I have no idea if it does) and you will have to adjust for temperature/bed heating, etc.

If you want my gcode - Ender 5 with bltouch - just ask and I will upload. It is 125mb so I wont upload unless someone wants it.

Nautilus Shell Google Home Mini Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4113952.

I saw this - https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dJeDZeFinG0-assateague-island-lighthouse - by Sarah Cath and wanted to be able to 3d print it, so I reworked it. Had to remove all the extras, rocks, fence, etc to even get it to export. I had to redesign the top of the lighthouse in order for it to print decent without support as the windows are so thin the support was breaking them off. I split this into 3 pieces to print at 100% scale on my Ender 5. As you can see by the picture it is about 16 inches tall.

I included the Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 gcode files as I know they worked perfect on my Ender 5. I included 3mf and stl files also of course.

The other files are the full lighthouse without being cut apart. One is before I repaired it in 3D Builder. They have more detail, including the actual light mechanism in the top that i had to remove because it would not print without support and there was no way to really get the support out. I do not know if a SLA printer would do it or not a I don't have one.

Oh and NO SUPPORTS! If you use supports it will mess it up by winding inside the buildings. There is a floor at the height of the bottom of the door that I couldn't figure out how to remove and that is holding up the chimney and the staircase I believe. I would like to remove it and extend both of them further down the base but I was lucky to get it this good and be able to print it! You will get some stringing between the base and that subfloor as the bridging is insane but it doesnt effect anything and mine printed just fine with it that way. You may get some squiggles here and there but nothing that effects how it prints (at least for me).

Any questions, please ask.

Comments and makes are nice :)


Assateague Lighthouse - Chincoteague Virginia

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4200848.

Someone asked on Reddit for an outlet cover for his sons room so here it is. Borg are not very interesting from a design perspective but I combined 2 things and made this. I did not try printing it upside down but with it face up you have to use supports due to the gap between the bed and the cover itself. Face down may work depending on how to orient it on your buildplate to account for the bridging your printer can do.

Any questions just ask :)

Only reason it is in white is because that is what I had in. You could do a change at layer setting to make different colors but the lip on the outside would be colored also. With a dual color printer you could do the interior a different color to make it pop a little bit or you could just paint it.

Borg Outlet Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5201141.

Thanx to rkxone for the initial Dominoes set! - https://www.thingiverse.com/rkxone/designs

Dominoes with Inserts

I remixed this just for some fun and because I can't paint, I don't have a multi-color printer, and I thought it looked horrible using a magic marker to mark the dots. This way you can use whatever colors you want and have some fun combinations! These were made figuring on a .2mm layer height for the dominoes and the inserts use whichever layer height multiplies into it - .6 use .2, .64 use .32,.72 use .12, etc. to make it easier to make sure you have the correct size and the slicer or printer doesn't screw up using a 2mm layer height with a .64 height item. Print the dominoes with the open end up, the way it is in the STL.

I printed the 2 pink ones without a brim but then as you can see in the pictures, I printed the entire set in white with a brim. You decide what your printer can do and if you need one or not. I doubt I needed it but I did it just to be safe.

I have included multiple sizes of inserts. Again, it will depend on how your printer does on which one you would need. I use the .6mm one and it fits nice and snug so I use a tiny screwdriver in one of the holes to pop it out a bit to take it out again. If you never want to take them out then put a drop of super glue in one of the dot openeing before sliding the insert in or just a tiny dab at the top before inserting it. 

Any questions just give a shout.

Zip file included has all the files and the ReadMe.txt in one place since Thingiverse still hasn't fixed it on their end.


Dominoes with Inserts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3986772.

Just got my 3d printer a couple weeks ago and this is my first attempt at making/remixing anything, so be gentle :)

I wanted the complete Darth Vader bust as 1 unit so I just shoved a wedge in his head and made it happen. I used supports where touch buildplate and I ended up using a raft just to make sure it would stick (the creality slicer picture does not show the raft I selected because I tried without first and it wiggled loose).

Took a little over 14 hours to print at the settings in the picture. I did a shell of 4mm just to make sure it would be solid enough to be handled without breaking.

Thank to Nakwada at Pinshape and sarf2k4 that I remixed from.

Printed really well for me on my Ender 5. I would love to try it at .1 resolution but wow, the time it takes. Those pictures have no post-printing or processing done. I just removed the support structures.

Pictures are sideways - no idea how to turn them as I tried everything and thingiverse keeps them sideways - guess I should take them landscape on my phone and then maybe they would be portrait.....

Made a base for it - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989242

Darth Vader Bust - One Piece

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4115934.

UPDATE - 2-15-2020 - Finally got to print it and it looks big and awesome :) Pics uploaded and posted a make so it would notify everyone. I printed at .28 resolution and it came out really good. Little roughness around the mini mount but that can be fixed with some snips or sandpaper. Took about 33 hours. I also forgot to up the infill like bulekowski suggested and only used 5%. It seems fine but like he said, if it is going to get knocked around then you will want to up it a bit and take the extra time printing so you don't end up with a 9inch high broken tie fighter mini mount ;)

Had this for a bit and decided to post it even though I have not printed it yet, which I really hate to do as I think everyone should print their own project first just to make sure nobody else wastes material and time but I just don't have the filament right now. This will take over 400 grams of filament, that is the reason I have not printed yet. once I have a bunch of extra filament I will print it as it is just so cool. Once i can get filament and print it i will add a jpg!

I resized the tie fighter and then added on the google mini mount just because you cant resize the whole thing together or the mini wont fit. Size is about 169mmx199mmx222mm so I have included both the 3mf and the stl file so you can disassemble in the 3mf and resize again if you need to.

If you normally use a skirt you MAY be able to do 1 line if you have the Ender 5 like me but it is going to push the limits so I would recommend turning it off and just using regular Cura sine it does the line on the left before printing anyway.

i would suggest using tree supports in Cura also or making your own in meshmixer if you know how (I do not).

Have fun and please let me know with a make or comment if you printed and how it came out.

I added a picture because thingiverse was not converting the stl to a jpg so I did it manually. I still have NOT printed this!

Tie Fighter Google Mini Mount - Resized 169x199x222

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203569.

Well here is the main reason I bought a 3d printer! I designed this a while ago but finally got it to where i wanted it and figured I would share. If you watch - https://youtu.be/4-jF5OC8Q0c - it will explain better than I can type but basically it is to hold the plastic sheeting in the garden away from your plants so more water can get at them.

I included a few insert tabs and if you would want more just message me and I can make what you want and upload or you can do it yourself with the blank I included. When you emboss use a height of 1.45mm for the letters and print with the letters facing down.

There is a slot in the top (again video shows this better) to insert a little plastic tab that comes with most plants (at least here in the USA) so you can have all the info right there for you.

Just pop the indent tab into the holes on  the side where it is wider - you can tell once it is printed - and to remove just squeeze the tabs together and push back through. You can do color changes if you want the letters to be different colors or if you have the ability to print more than one color, then you don't have to worry about the filament change at layer thing.

I did print this at .32 layer height and 25% infill and it works fine. I have had a few in the garden since last year that I printed in PLA and they have held up very well with no signs of wear. To use the slot for the plastic tab that comes with plants, print it as included with the top on the build plate and the point sticking up with supports everywhere due to the slots. Print the indent pieces with the letters down and NO SUPPORTS. If your printer will not print the bridges needed with no supports than you can include them but it can be a pain to remove them.

I guess that is it. Any question give a shout!

Garden Stake

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4597754.

timbar created the cover with strap for hydraulic AM102420 connector - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4801967 

PRINT IN TPU - this needs to be flexible.

I printed at .12 layer height, 30mms with 25% gyroid infill and it took about 1hr30min each using about 6g of filament.

Just a remix to add the strap so if the plug comes out it will stay on the mower. I also resized the end a bit to make it fit better (at least on my 425). These fit the AM102487 hydraulic fitting on my 425 and should fit 445 and any others that use those fittings.

I may have been able to make the strap a bit shorter as it kinks a little but I have not noticed any problems so far. I fit the strap over the entire connector without removing the connector but you really have to force it. Decent TPU should be able to handle that no problem.

I would like to get the cap side done also in the future. I will post as a new thing rather than adding to this one to make sure any followers will see it.

Tips are really appreciated!

Edited 1-7-2022 to put Hydraulic in the title. Not sure if Thingiverse will change it or not but I should have had it there from day one :(

John Deere AM102487 Hydraulic Plug With Strap 425 445 etc

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541024.

I will not lie - the supports can be a pain due to the small size and the threads - only need supports from the buildplate for the screw in end of the top. I used tree supports and after removing what I could I just screwed it together a few times and it worked perfectly.

I added a screw adapter to make it very steady without having to glue the two pieces together.

I made the threads small so if you needed a bit more height you only would need to screw it in so far and would not need to redo the whole thread pattern or else cut and extend the base.

Star Wars Darth Vader LARGE Headphone Stand with Screw Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4545736.

I wanted just single ones so I could place them as close or far apart as I wanted so I cut the original and then added two more holes for screws as a single hole would make a pivot point and might let the hanger move. I left the middle one just in case you wanted to use the single attachment like on a pegboard or something.

Print on the side so you need no supports. Should be oriented the right way in the STL file but you never know.

I printed mine in PLA since I still have not played around with PETG but I am thinking they should be fine but pick your material at your own discretion.

In Cura the time says 1hr31min and 15g of filament. I put 8 on and printed at once and it gave me 12hr28min and 118g, just to give you a GENERAL idea of time and materials.

Single Pool Hose Hanger

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