Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5279969.

A fighting stick hit-box, mash up to allow the use of both stick and buttons for movement at the same time or individually via a selector switch. 

I stripped the stick from an old Hori Fighting Stick mini but it should be simple enough to adjust the mount to fit other sticks.

Brooks P4+ Fighting Board
Sanwa Buttons (16 x 24mm & 1 x 30mm)
Guitar Switch (3 way toggle selector)
LEDs (optional)


Mashbox

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5437291.

Given the price of the various Hitbox type controllers, even before postage and duty are added, I thought it would be an interesting project to whip together some sort of Ghetto gamepad using a cheap Pico and the excellent [GP2040 firmware](https://gp2040.info/). Grabbing the [fighting board](https://shop.feralai.com/product/pico-fighting-board/) unfortunately wasn't possible at the time of building/writing but the parts can be soldered directly to the Pico anyway.

My main criteria were: small, cheap, print as much of the pad as possible. I deviated from this slightly as without a plexiglass back I could have probably reduced the overall depth by a further 5mm. Even so, the finished gamepad is 210 x 160 x 30.

Parts:
1 x Raspberry Pi Pico
11 x Generic Cherry Mx Red Switches (note about these below)
6 x Buttons for menus etc (I used cheap 6mm momentary buttons)
Wire and Solder
Plexiglass for back. Not 100% necessary but can look nice.
TPU - Blue in pictures
PLA - White in the pictures

Buttons note:
I spent probably more time on these than any other part of the design. They work - actually pretty well - but could definitely be improved. The main issue with Cherry Red's is the amount of action the button has. I've hopefully solved that a little bit by hooking the switch down to "almost" activated. I've not tried but read that Cherry Silver's are better in this regard (less action).

Final note:
As always exports from Blender are several magnitudes smaller when dropped into the slicer. Simply scale up by adding a zero or two until things look correct. Also note I'm terrible at Blender so the models will likely have n-gons/hidden faces/any number of weird anomalies. They print fine using Cura. 

Slamwich

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5550467.

I really liked the idea of these [counter trays](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3874681) but found the actual use a little frustrating. Perhaps my fingers are too big... Anyway, I made a few minor adjustments (widened the gap and added a notch that allows a set of tweezers (or perhaps a smaller finger) to easily get under the bottom counter.

Gaming Counter Tray

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5412167.

I wasn't very happy with the cases that came with either the WOW Stick or the WOW Pen Drill as one had a loose top the other didn't allow for a tool to be stored with an attachment in place.

This initial design fixes those two issues with an unhinged press-together lid, which can act as a handy screw tray. I didn't have strong enough magnets for a magnetic clip like the WOW Stick case which I did like so this works kind of well enough - I've not tried printing the lid with hard PLA or similar but is fine with a 95 TPU.

I printed the base with a generic white PLA I had kicking around and the lid with eSun blue TPU. About 160 grams total is needed for both top and bottom.



WOW Pen Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5362701.

A simple tray to hold the screwpad, the wowstick base holder, plus other items. 

Fits on an Ender just be sure to turn off the skirt in the slicer.

I've included the .blend file so adjustments/logos/etc can be made (expect ngons and other bad geometry as I'm still new to the software)

Wow Stick 1F Tray

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