Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4949467.

Johnsonville Sausage Grill Plus - https://www.sizzlingsausagegrill.com/sizzling-sausage-grill-plus/ - just the perfect, completely unnecessary accessory that makes grilling sausage a zero-effort process...until that stupid catch breaks on the lid. I tried epoxying it back on with some fiberglass, but the fix only lasted a few months. 

This is the first attempt at a part with some carbon fiber filled ABS. It would probably work fine with plain ABS, or ASA as well. It's not in the "cooking path" or touching food, but heat does escape from the edge of the grill, so a higher temp material is probably a good idea. 

This should be rotated to print sideways, and may benefit from a brim to hold the piece on the bed - I've added some break-away supports on the side I chose as "down" (not enough - there are still some elevated flats - oops).  Cura 5% "lines" support wasn't too hard to clean up.  Once it's printed, just make sure the broken semi-circle with the loser catch is removed and the remaining clasp is nice and flush/square at the break. Then dry fit to verify it will go on, put epoxy on the top and bottom of the original part, slide on the "fix" and clean up any epoxy that oozes out.  The photos are of the completed repair. 

Repair for Johnsonville Sausage Griller Clasp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4969788.

Does anyone still have an old NiteBow sitting in a box somewhere without a rocket? Why not put it on top of the ubiquitous 38mm rocket body? (don't forget to extend your launch lugs out a few mm)

The eye bolt is (probably) a #8 or #10 thru - it came out of the parts bin. 
The four mounts for the lower board are for #4 coupler/extension nuts and need to be heat-set (hexagonal opening is slightly undersized when printed). 

And, of course, you'll want to throw a bit of foam or wadding next to the battery to keep it from wandering a bit during aggressive flights. 

NiteBow Nose Cone for 38mm Body Tube

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4619159.

Simple storage for all the threaded rods, bars, dowels, and misc long-thin items I use for models/modeling. The base and middle "support" are printed, along with a lifting disc for each tube. The tubes are just old-school fluorescent T12 tube guards, cut to length as needed. To make the lifting disc, I added an appropriate length of aluminum welding filler rod and hand bent a loop at the top for easy finger access.

Rod, dowel, and bar storage

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047796.

For the 1970s era micro-bathroom with no good place for a toilet paper holder. This requires cutting a hole in your vanity to install, but allows for nearly-flush installation. THERE ARE NO MOUNTING TABS. Yes, I'm lazy and this was a temporary fix until we remodel, so I epoxied the mount to the face of the cabinet.  I've also carved out the back of the assembly to save weight/filament. I've included the Fusion360 file so you can undo the cutout (if you would prefer your TP not be exposed to the cabinet, or visa versa) and add any tabs, clips or mounting bosses you would like to use. 

Recessed Toilet Paper Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3382882.

This is a case for the EggFinder basic (non-LCD) receiver. It has a space (and openings) for a 9v Lipo rechargeable battery similar to the Okcell, or could be used with a standard 9v battery. There is a "cover" plate for the bluetooth unit that holds it in place and a rectangle cutout on the right of the unit for a power rocket switch. The rocker switch was a pull from something so I don't have a part number for that.  You'll need 10 - 3mm screws about 8-10mm in length to assemble everything. You'll want to print the top and cover with some support as the holes for screws are cbored. You'll also need to flip the base over to minimize support. Whether you need the supports for it (for the side cutouts) is up to you and your confidence in your bridging. There are two bulkheads in the antenna section of the base which have holes in the middle to support the brass whip antenna that comes with the Rx kit. 

If you like the graphics and have a Cricut (or know someone with one), the cover is available at Cricut (https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/5c4c88ae638f9c0665944348?fbclid=IwAR3p8tJeyQCNuWi20iMVunjYhVCGPnFhpEU2W8e1B-Rhnx59WQlCtZKGLtM)

EggFinder Rx Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3617370.

Just a nut that holds the handle in place on a Toto flush valve. It's a standard 5/8-18 UNF threaded nut with an integral washer. I printed at 0.1mm height and 100% infill. Not very exciting, but printing it beats having to buy a new handle.

Toto Toilet Handle Nut

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3382926.

While setting up my Thrustmaster Warthog for playing Elite:Dangerous I realized how dependent I was on my old HOTAS center detent for dropping the ships to zero throttle reliably. In looking around, I couldn't find a good, free throttle insert piece to give me this so I could use the Warthog as a full-range throttle (-100% to 100% thrust) so I grabbed my calipers and modeled one up based on others I'd seen on Thingiverse.  

This one has one detent at 0% throttle, and a second one at 75% throttle (for supercruise flight time optimization).  Both are fairly light detents, with the 0% most effective when approaching from negative thrust and the 75% most effective when approaching from full thrust. 

I printed this is PLA, but I don't know how durable it will ultimately be. If I have issues with it I'll either just print another (if it lasts long enough to be worth it) or start trying other materials with higher durability like ABS or PETg. I recommend printing this at 0.1mm or smaller layer height on it's side (using supports and a brim for adhesion) to maximize the smoothness of the surface over which the throttle has to slide. 

Revision: Added a 0% only detent version. Also, I recommend setting the zero band to about 3 in the TARGET software to allow for a bit of slop in the print/model.

Thrustmaster Warthog Elite:Dangerous detent

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