Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028001.

Somewhere to put your RDNA40 in your car or in you workstation without taking up a cup holder or constantly being knocked over. Has a cutout to allow for use while charging. I mount it with 3M heavy duty velcro fasteners, that way if it gets knocked into it's more likely to pop off the velcro than break altogether.  If you'd like a version with screw holes instead, just shoot me a message and I'll make the change and post it here.

VaporShark RDNA40 Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362512.

- **5/17/20**: Added alternative versions of Bottom case part, including for using M3 T Slot nuts, for using M2.5 (3.8mm OD) heatset inserts, and one file for both modifications.
- There's also a version available for the **[Sidewinder X-1](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153427)** as well as a **[remixed back part for installing on an Ender 5 Plus and CR-10s Pro](https://www.thingiverse.com/make:805776)**

This is for replacing the LCD on the Lulzbot Taz 4 / 5 / 6 with a BigtreeTech TFT35 v3.0. Remove the existing LCD and use the preinstalled M5 T slot nuts to secure the TFT_BottomNew.stl to the frame. Made the opening just big enough to be able to fit the wires in there, if you have trouble you can always add your own hole or make it bigger and install the wires before mounting it. Also included a version with M3 sized mounting holes for possible use in other 2020 extrusion based machines. The top cover screws into the bottom part with M2.5 screws self-threading them into the plastic. This works fine for me but if you prefer I've included a version optimized for M2.5 heatset inserts with a diameter of 3.8mm.

*Made as a part of my [Taz 5 SKR 1.4 Turbo / SSR Upgrade](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4354523) project. A cheaper (but more labor intensive) alternative to upgrading your machine to the less popular (less supported) Archim board. So don't ask how to connect the TFT35 to the Taz's stock RAMBO board (I don't think it's possible)*

* *On the Taz the LCD backplate kind of acts as support for the frame so I would recommend adding an inside corner reinforcement like [here](https://www.amazon.com/PZRT-Aluminum-Fastener-Standard-Extrusion/dp/B07G7P782S/) or [here](https://www.amazon.com/KOOTANS-Decorative-Accessories-Connector-Extrusion/dp/B07PBJG87F) as an example to make sure everything stays nice and square.*

### Required Materials
* **2x** M2.5 x 16mm [Hex Socket Cap Screws](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J69PC3B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CKQAEbWP97WB2)
* **2x** M2.5 x 12mm [Hex Socket Cap Screws](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J69PC3B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CKQAEbWP97WB2)
* **3x** M5 x 10-12mm Machine Screws

## Notes / Afterthoughts

3D Printing is my passion and I hope this helps somebody out there as downloading designs from here once helped me much. After a while I got tired of printing something and having it be a waste of filament because of a bad design, designer having different calibration, etc. So if you have any issues let me know, only takes a few minutes for me to make a few changes and upload. If you want to help support my efforts to put more quality part designs on thingiverse hit the tip button in my profile. Thanks so much and hope everyone stays safe and healthy!

**Appreciate seeing my designs out in the wild so please do post makes!**

TFT35 Case For Taz 5 and other 2020 3D Printers (Taz 4, Taz 6 too)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3155534.

A sliding cup holder I designed for my computer desk to prevent spilling coffee on my keyboard whilst designing other objects! Stows away while not in use.

Requires 4x M3 standoffs and 8x M3 screws 15-20mm long as well as 4-6 tapered head wood screws (~3/4" long or 20mm) for securing tracks to the desk. I used 24mm long standoffs, but you can use whichever length and style suits you.

Print 1 of each: slide / lower
Print 2 of each: tracktop / bottom

Designed in so many different pieces so that the parts that are sliding together are all from the bed side for smooth movement.

To assemble screw wood screws through both printed track parts with the top of "cupholdertracktop" facing the top of the desk matching the tapered part of the ring piece. Screw one track in, put assembled cup holder in between them and screw in other track.

Under desk Sliding Cup Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:962402.

* By request: If you don't have a printer sufficient enough to print these I can send you a kit of 2 clips printed in strong ABS or PETG including hardware for $9 + shipping (US), just shoot me a message and I can ship it out within a day or two.

Disassemble wrist rest and remove old broken clips, use new clips to mark where the holes need to be drilled. Drill hole large enough to perfectly fit screw. The holes are sized for 2-56, 100 degree pan head SS milspec screws I sourced from mcmaster (Part #: 90471a115). There was barely enough space behind the plastic for the 2-56 nuts so I doubt any bigger screws/nuts will work.  

These are for the K70 RGB version but it seems that Corsair's whole line of mechanical keyboards are very similar in build so it may even work for the other models with less/more keys.

Corsair K70 Wrist Rest Clip Replacement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2341626.

The plates included with the YKV Landing gear didn't match up with the bottom plate of my official DJI Flamewheel F450 ARF kit. This adapter is designed to solve that. I've designed it to clip in (takes a little work to get in at first, and you need to screw in the tube rings first and foremost before pushing the tubes through. Because once you push those tubes through, it's never gonna unclip because the tubes make it more rigid and won't be able to bend to get it off or on. There are also screw holes which I used 4x Nylon M3 screws and nuts to secure. 

Also included is my battery tray designed to hook velcro straps around the adapter (only thing is that once you screw the adapter plate in those velcro straps aren't moving). The inside dimensions of the battery tray are 116x64x34mm, made to fit my multistar 4S 5200mAh lipo. One version is made with a grill to cut down on weight and the other version has solid walls.

I'm not sure if this will work with other similar landing skids, thought it's very possible. If you tried it out and it works then let me know the information on it (brand name, where you bought it) and I'll post it here to help others find it.

Enjoy! If you have any questions or need small modifications made to the design, let me know.

If you'd like these parts or other printed by me in high quality ABS plastic you can check out my [makexyz page here](https://www.makexyz.com/printer/jimbalny) 3D printing and design is only my side job for now, but it's what I'm really passionate about. Thanks!

DJI F450 YKV Landing Skid Adapter and Battery Cage

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815645.

#### Overview

Ergonomic case for 3x4 or 4x4 membrane keypad to be used for 3D Printer Controls. All parts were printed in ABS except for KeypadBottom printed in TPU for grip. Print each file once and assemble. I'm using this connected directly to the Raspberry Pi GPIO pins with no additional electronics. I wrote an Octoprint plugin to interface with my printer, but my Python skills are limited and do not have full customization built into the plug-in yet.

#### Hardware Required: 
- 4x M3 Heat-Set Inserts
- 4x M3 x 8-10mm Cap Head Screws
- 3x4 or 4x4 Membrane Keypad
- CAT6 or CAT5E (Sacrificed Patch cable recommended for more flexible cable)
- Male-Male Header Pins
- 2.54mm Single Row Female Headers (7-pin for 3x4, 8-pin for 4x4)

### Octoprint Plug-In (WIP)

- Not currently in the Octoprint Plug-In Repository, needs Python 3 conversion, which shouldn't be a problem I just haven't had the time. If anyone likes this idea and has the skills feel free to take it over or branch it.

- Download Github repository and put into a folder called Octoprint-MembraneKeypad in your Octoprint plug-ins folder

- [Click Here For GitHub Repository](https://github.com/jimbalny/Octoprint-MembraneKeypad)

- Once installed after restarting Octoprint you can find in the Settings page > Advanced options to change the default raspberry pi pins used by the keypad (just in case you are already using these pins for something else)

- Requires RPi.GPIO and pad4pi python libraries installed by:
  + pip install RPi.GPIO
  + pip install pad4pi



#### Keypad Default Functions:

![Keypad Functions](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/jimbalny/Octoprint-MembraneKeypad/master/KeyFunctions.png "Keypad Functions")

#### Other Notes

- You can change the functionality or keys used for each function in _init_.py under "def pressKey(self, key)" by changing if key == 6: for example to a different number or symbol corresponding to the keypad. 

- It should be possible to change to a 4x4 matrix keypad by finding and replacing in _init_.py:
```
		KPad = [
			[1, 2, 3, 'A'],
			[4, 5, 6, 'B'],
			[7, 8, 9, 'C'],
			['*', 0, '#', 'D']
		]
		Row_Pins = [self.RP1, self.RP2, self.RP3, self.RP4]
		Col_Pins = [self.CP1, self.CP2, self.CP3, PIN # HERE] 
```
		Replace 'PIN # HERE' with the corresponding extra Coluimn Pin #

		Then in the keyPress function just add another elif key == 'A': 
		for example with function underneath

### Updates / Changes

- 4/25/2020: Updated GitHub repository, added instructions for testing plug-in

3x4 and 4x4 Keypad Controller For Octoprint or CNC

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091238.

Works well with my Dean 6-string banjo, made it a little over a millimeter shorter than the bridge that came stock with it as I wasn't happy with the action. Included Inventor IPT file for your editing pleasure.

6 String Banjo Bridge

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3645909.

### 4/30/2020: Uploaded IPT and STEP files by request

Ever go to put in a switch or receptacle and the plate breaks because it's the only thing keeping the outlet from going into the wall? Using spacers helps tremendously in these situations.

Being an electrician in addition to a 3d printing nerd I find it ludicrous to spend $1 each per individual switch/receptacle spacer as they are sold at home depot and the like. 

So these can be printed either as individual spacers, a 3 stack, or a 6 stack. When printed in stacks you can use a blade to split the spacer at the perforation to a stack of 2 or whatever you need. I usually print a bunch of 6 stacks with 100% rectilinear infill and cut them up as needed so they're easier to find in my hardware case.

To install you put the spacer between the device and box, put your 6/32 screw through the device, through the spacer and into the box.

As always thanks for stopping by and if you'd like to see more designs geared towards the electrical tradesman shoot me a message or comment with any suggestions/requests. As a union electrician I'm always looking for ways to work smarter instead of harder and anything that makes our job easier is a win  ;) Tips are always much appreciated and help me buy filament when work is slow!

Switch and Outlet Spacer for Electricians

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515753.

Printed out of TPU flexible filament, an insert pad meant to use with resistance workout bands when doing curls and whatnot without hurting your big bare sasquatch feet. Sized it to the higher resistance bands so should work with any of them.

Resistance Workout Band Foot Hold Pad

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146370.

An under desk or shelf holster / hook for harbor freight brand chicago electric 12 setting heat gun, faces the action end down but I would suggest mounting far enough away from anything combustible. Printed with 0.6mm nozzle 0.35mm layer height in ABS for strength. Can be printed with or without supports depending on object orientation. Works great for my workshop, hopefully this finds use somewhere in someone else's workshop!

Under Desk or Shelf Holster / Hook For Chicago Electric 12 Setting Heat Gun

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4327371.

Sketched this out to help in designing a 3d printer control box for my Taz 5 SKR 1.4 Turbo upgrade that will allow me to remotely turn the machine on / off with Octoprint by using this relay to control the 24v supply to the board. My heated bed will be on a 100A DC SSR which will be fed straight from the 24v supply (if there's no voltage to the coil the SSR will turn it off anyway so no need to feed that through the relay too possibly overloading it)

KY-019 Single Channel 120/220v 10A 5v Coil Relay for Arduino / Raspberry Pi

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146360.

An under the shelf hook / holster for a datavac electric air gun. Two 3mm screw holes for mounting. You can print with or without supports depending on object orientation. I printed in ABS with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.35mm layer height for strength. 50% infill

DataVac Under Shelf Hook / Holster

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613766.

Huanyang VFD Line Filter extension box created for my hy01d511b. Used M5 screws and nuts to mount the line filter, M2.5 screws and threaded inserts for mounting the supports (they only are to prevent the enclosure creating flex. To mount to the VFD I used the enclosure as a template for drilling holes into the VFD box using 4x M3 screws and 4x nyloc nuts to secure the enclosure to the Huanyang VFD. The strain relief screws in with M2 Screws and threaded inserts. If your Huanyang isn't genuine or you're unsure if it will fit I've provided a fitment test you can print to see if it will work before printing the whole thing.

Huanyang VFD Line Filter Enclosure / Extension Box With Strain Relief

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3200999.

Couldn't find anything like this on thingiverse so I designed my own, wanted easy access to my cutters, strippers, needlenose and solder sucker for when I'm doing some soldering. Mounted mine on a bit of an angle for ergonomics and works great thus far!

Screw holes are included in the design but I've found it mounts perfectly fine with some double sided foam tape.

Tool Bench Holster for Plyers and Solder Sucker Soldering Tools

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3317368.

Printed from TPU this strap is designed to hold a power brick (e.g. aquarium lighting power supply) of multiple different sizes using one or two screws and a zip tie. Print using lower infill for maximum stretch-ability, the grippy nature of flexible filament holds them in place quite nicely with minimal time/material cost. Haven't tested this on many different size power bricks, so let me know if some modifications to the design are needed for your application.

Edit: Added a thinner and textured version

Power Brick Mounting Strap TPU

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4166380.

I wanted this sander but didn't want to pay $6 for the actual sander part so I just purchased the belts and modeled this around these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IRLEALI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_uHvsEbQ2TMASE

Using those yellow 3D printer bed springs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SCYM119/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_9OvsEb1H3GHA7

If you'd like to print these separately to fit on a smaller bed in Simplify 3D go to Mesh > Separate Connected Meshes.

Sanding Detailer (Spring Loaded For Mini Sander Belts)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3116727.

* If you don't have a printer to make this for yourself shoot me a message

These are parts to increase the height of the canopy on the stock emax Babyhawk Race to better accommodate a camera with a larger lens such as the Runcam Micro Eagle without having to cut anything or make any modifications that can't be undone. This should allow you as much camera angle adjustment as before the mod. Pictured I used the rakonheli cnc aluminium frame kit but it should work on the stock carbon fiber frame as the mounting holes are the same dimensions. Just print the shim as well as the bottom piece and reassemble as normal using the M2 nuts that came with it. May require longer M2 screws in the shimmed part.

Edit: had a couple of hard crashes that bent the arms on my aluminium frame and broke off a motor bell, but the Micro Eagle is still in perfect shape so confirmed that this provides adequate protection for the massive lens on the camera! 

Enjoy and safe flying!

Babyhawk Race Lift Kit for Runcam Micro Eagle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4324967.

Auber 25A Heat Sink 3d Model for 3d printer design. Using the heatsink for 100A low resistance DC SSR to control the heated bed on my Taz 5 SKR upgrade. Parametric Inventor IPT source included for the heatsink. The SSR itself isnj't my work, but provided for convenience. https://grabcad.com/library/solid-state-relay-7

Auber D4825 SSR 25A External Heat Sink HS25ET

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146384.

A little 3d printed adapter piece for installing a 20x20 vtx onto a holybro kopis 1 frame while still using stock antenna holder. Had to offset the 20x20 mounting holes back a bit for the coax cable to be able to reach. An unintended advantage to this is moving the VTX further back away from the gyro therefore possibly isolating it a bit more from electromagnetic interference. Doesn't seem to affect the balance of the craft at all, also includes a slot and cutouts to zip tye receiver and any loose wires. Hopefully this finds someone some use. 

Thanks to those generous folks out there that have shown their gratitude with the tip button, it encourages me to share more of my designs and keep contributing to this amazing hobby of FPV.

Holybro Kopis 1 20x20 VTX offset adapter`

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452090.

Thanks to Not1ofthepack, remixed to add some beef to it. when printing his original model I wasn't happy with the amount of flex in the part so I added onto the model in inventor. Because of the way I edited it there are multiple solid bodies and self-intersecting surfaces in the model which may cause a problem slicing. In Simplify3d you simply position the model on the bed, click Mesh > Separate Connected Surfaces and it should print fine. Printed mine in PETG with support. I had to add two nuts to each side to lower the bltouch to the correct position for my extruder/nozzle setup (hexagon hot-end same as stock taz 5).

The firmware I used was kindly forked from a recent aleph objects build by Menissalt on the lulzbot forums: https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6809

You'll need to figure out your Z-offset values, a good video showing how can  be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko

Configuration.h values:

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -26
define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -34
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER (leave, change this after flashing)

define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 240
define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 240

BLTouch LulzBot Taz 5 Add-On

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1226541.

Modified the bottom plate for the official DJI F450 Top Plate, so that the holes line up for passing wires through. Thanks to original author Guy McCaldin!

Weighs about 9 grams printed in ABS.

Modified Omnimac 3DR Pixhawk Anti Vibration Mount For DJI F450 (originally by GuyMcCaldin)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3482579.

While drinking a couple adult beverages with an old friend he mentioned he needed something to hold a 9v battery for electronics in the guitar he's building. After a quick search finding nothing like he needed I decided to whip up the design myself real quick.

This allows you to use the existing battery terminal clip and lets you easily slide the battery out for replacement, inset mounting square for foam mounting tape.

Originally printed in PETG and it's snug enough, you may need to adjust the scale by a few percent for other filaments or better fitment for your situation.

9v Battery Holder Sleeve

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