Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5388431.

This is design was made specifically for the Tubular frame family. It's a frame that you can build at home for very little money - yet it is super stiff and flies aweseom!

If you're unfamiliar, here are links to the 2 already released frames:
6inch: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5368370
7inch: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5365636

PS: if you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this type of frame. You'll get all the support you need there.

https://discord.gg/Fy6fkBGWNm

--------------------------------

I designed a vertical mount for the Caddx Vista Air Unit, which includes an antenna mount. I have added the Fusion360-file. The design is parameterized, so you can easily adjust it to your Tubular-Frame in just a few seconds (ask if you need help, maybe i'll make a video about it some time). There is a parameter for rods diameter, antenna tube diameter and the width of the antenna mounting orb (needed if you increase the antenna tube diameter further).

The mount gets pushed in between the rods and is help perfectly in place. I doubt it will ever come off without you manually doing so. It weights just 6.3g.

Caddx Vista Air Unit mount for Tubular frame

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5365636.

Update 03.05.22:
I beefed up the clamps a bit, so they are more rigid (parts 01-04). Rest has not changed.

-------------------------------------------------

Note: This frame is work-in-progress. While the basic principle has proven to work perfectly, the "official" 7" version i'm still tinkering with - most of all with the right length/thickness of the 3d-printed parts to connect the rods together. I just finished my build and will do flight testing next.
If you want to build one now, please also consider the 6" version. I've been flying that one for months, and it's just amazing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5368370

Also if you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this type of frame. You'll get all the support you need there. I'll do what i can to help.

https://discord.gg/Fy6fkBGWNm


------------------------------------------------

Hi there,

what about a frame that is super light yet crazily stiff, extremely modular? A frame that you can build at home without the need of a CNC workshop? And that costs just around 20$?
Well, something along these lines would probably be written on a product listing if this would actually be a product ^^

I have been designing tube-based frames around 10 years ago already, and i always felt a shame that this kind of fframe was nowhere to be seen nowadays.

I am currently working on making a video about how to build the frame - stay tuned!

While this frame is super stiff and light, it probably isn't really suited for a freestyle frame. I haven't crash-testet it too much, but i'm pretty sure it's easier to kill than your typical freestyle frame with 5mm+ arms. I'm mainly cruising and doing long range.

Note: live picture taken from the 6" version.

Now lets check the claims:

<h1>1) super light yet crazily stiff</h1>
This 7" frame does weight around 60-85g in total (depending on the rod strength and used mounts). This inclused the GoPro as well as the GPS mount. 
It uses 6mm and 8mm carbon tubes that can purchased in many places. Make sure they are "twilled", not "pulled". Twilling handles torsion better.

You can use the classic 8x6mm and 6x4mm rods (2mm material thickness), or 8x7mm + 6x5mm for less weight. The weight difference is about 20g (about half of the tube weight). For your first frame and heavier builds i suggest using the thicker ones.

The carbon rods are glued to the plastic parts using CA-glue (superglue). This creates a crazy strong connection. You can use PLA and it will work, however it'll break easier in case of a crash. Better use Nylon or ideally carbon-infused Nylon (this also prints easier than pure Nylon).

<h1>2) extremely modular</h1>
There are many tubes all around that you can easily attach different mounts to. Want a vertically mounted ELRS antenna? Well, there is a mount for that. Basically anything is possible. I will gladly help with a certain mount if you provide me with details.
I plan on adding a parameterized Fusion360 files of different mounts, then you can easily adjust the mount to your needs (e.g. GPS).
I uploaded the files for a "classic" build, with the electronics in the front and battery on the back. There is about 30mm distance in between, which should be enough for a Caddx Vista Air Unit + FC & ESC stack.
I currently am building my a bit different, with the electronics on a lower level, and the battery on top (as i want to use a 4s2p / 6s2p battery). I'll add the files for that soon.

Also i added files for my setup, which is a naked GoPro on a BetaFPV housing, as well as a Caddx Vista DJI camera + CrossFire Immortal-T antenna. I also added a universal camera mount, on with an Immortal-T mount, on without.

ELRS antenna mount (horizontal & vertical) coming soon.

<h1>3) build at home without the need of a CNC workshop</h1>
Well, you only need to buy the carbon tubes, a saw and a 3d printer. 

<h1>4) costs just around 15-20 bucks</h1>
In the last 2 months prices have gone up quite a bit. A year ago i purchased rods for 5-7$ per meter. Now these are almost 10$, so for 2 of them thats 20$. You won't need all of them, but the filament also costs a few cents. So lets say 20$.



<h1>Important information:</h1>

Length of the carbon tubes:

8mm diameter (you need 970mm in total):
1 x 320mm (front motors)
1 x 290mm (back motors)
2 x 180mm (front to back)
6mm diameter (you need 584mm in total):
2 x 133mm (front stiffeners)
2 x 153mm (back stiffeners)
Cutting them roughly is good enough, a milimeter more or less is not too much of a problem.

Possible sources for all sizes except 6x5mm: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002332108832.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/32856519256.html


<h1>Further tipps:</h1>

- as carbon rods have a rather low tolerance, they can easily actually be 0,1 - 0,3mm more thick or thin than they should be. Therefore you'll most likely need to file up the difference. file as long as needed until the PLA parts can be pushed on the rods with medium resistance. They shouldn't flow freely, but also it shouldn't be too hard to move them. Otherwise the PLA will break

- If the PLA should break, just superglue it back together. Use activator spray to save time

- i added the print material (and amount) in the stl files

- for print orientation see the attached image

- I suggest printing the mounts vertically. They will break super easily when removing the support material though. Just superglue it back together. When putting them on the frame and off they will be fine.


<h1>Before putting on the glue:</h1>

- make sure that all parts are in the right place. To do so, measure and mark the correct positions of the PLA parts (an picture with measurements will follow soon)
- in order to easily mount everything together, put in the stiffeners last
- place the frame on a flat surface. All motor mounts should touch the ground. If they don't, twist the frame around until they do


Thats it for now, i'll update the instructions over time. I also have created a 5" and 6" version, which will follow soon.

Tubular 7inch frame - superlight and superstiff - no CNC needed

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5368370.

This is the 6" version of the Tubular frame concept. Actually this frame was the first that i've completed and build.

It has been designed mainly for cruising and long-range. It houses a 4s Li-Ion packs with 18650 cells nicely.

Differences to the 7" version except the size: It allows for either clamping the rods together OR just using glue. I've found that glue is the best and most simple solution, which is why i've made it "glue" only in future versions.

It uses 6mm rods (i used 6x4mm in my build) only. The needed amount of rods is 1,314m.

The length of each rod:

1 x front arms 270mm
1 x back arms 250mm
2 x cross rods 160mm
2 x front stiffener 111mm
2 x back stiffener 126mm

The total frame weight is around 60-65g.

For general info and build tipps, please check the 7" version:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5365636



PS: if you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this type of frame. You'll get all the support you need there.

https://discord.gg/Fy6fkBGWNm

Tubular 6inch frame - superlight and superstiff - no CNC needed

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4845387.

Version 2!

Changes:
- for less manual filing I added an offset to the fittings (0,1mm on each axis, so 0,2mm in total) - this way hopefully there will be no / only very few) filing necessary
- I also added instructions for your CNC service / workshop on how to do the cut-outs (see 2 images)
- height of the arms has been increased from 18mm to 20mm based on several requests 
- FC&ESC stack mounting holes moved 5mm more towards the back. This way the USB connector is better reachable (still not perfect, but given the design thats the best it can get)

Hint: The 6mm standoffs between the motor mounts are not necessary. You can also used a M2x10mm screw and bolt to directly mount the 2 plates together. I find it much easier to align them well with the spacer bolts (and kinda nicer), so i'm using these on my build.

------

Frame now available here: http://cncdrones.com/reliant--long-range-y6.html
(international shipping possible, just send them a message)

------

Hi there!

I always loved the way a Y6 looks like. In theory up to 2 motors / propellers can break (just not on the same arm), and you can still stay in the air. Sadly it requires you to use a landing gear. However using this design with 90° flipped arms, this is not the case.

Regarding the used components the frame is basically a Y6-version of the #microlongrange, so from my findings the 1404 motors fit best. I'm flying the Y6 with 3s Li-Ion packs using 4" props. The sound is quite nice and definitely not annoying on 3s, which is very important to me.

With the 3s Li-Ion i get flight times of around 16-20mins (depending on if i got the GoPro on or not).

I do design frames for personal projects for fun and document the process in my Youtube-Channel.

Design details:
https://youtu.be/a4PtNFgEqVc

Build and maiden:
https://youtu.be/cPlAa_vi6e8

Flight performance:
coming soon


Notes about the build:
The motor plates are pushed onto the arms, and the arms onto the main plates. They are then secured with spacer bolts. The spacer bolts are a tiny little bith shorter than the frame parts, which ensures you get a very tight and reliable connection.
I didn't leave any extra space in between the parts. So depending on the drill diameter that your CNC workshop uses, you will need to do a bit of filing to make sure the part fit nicely.

I suggest using aluminium spacer bolts, as they save quite a bit of weight.

For mounting the motor plates on the arms, you need:

12 x M2 - 6mm spacer bolts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831145268.html
24 x M2 - 3mm screws

For mounting the arms to the main plates, you need:

6 x M2 - 18mm spacer bolts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831145268.html
12 x M2 - 4mm screws (or up until 6mm screws if you have them already)

For mounting the TPU camera mount you need:

2 x M2 - 18mm spacer bolts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831145268.html
4 x M2 - 4mm screws (or up until 6mm screws if you have them already)

For mounting the TPU GPS mount you need:

1 x M2 - 8mm (or 10mm)
1 x M2 - nut

Would love to see others build this as well! Please send me a note if you did (or video link), or use the "Made" function :-)

"Reliant" frame - modern lightweight Y6 frame for long range and fun (v2!)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544043.

I got the Viswhoop, as the price for the complete copter was only a bit more expensive than the Caddx Vista itself.
As expected for this price point, the frame and the hardware is somewhere between mediocre and "okayish".

With this kit you can highly improve the rigidness and reliability.

It includes:

1) Propeller guards / propeller ducts
The ones that come with the frame break by the slightest touch. These are meant to be much more stable. They are designed to be as efficient as possible, so there is minimal space between the propellers and the ducts. 

I included the 3mm-version from the pictures, as i feel this is the best compromise. However i've also included a much more stiff 6mm-version, for the ones that want to focus on an even higher stiffness, and get that Cinewhoop style. I suggest using the 3mm-version though.

2) VTX-antenna mount
The included mount is laughable at best. The antenna was flying around easily, and there was risk of it hitting the propellers. With this adapter you can secure the cable with a small ziptie (fits right into the hole), and clip the antenna into the holder. This way it's securely in place when flying, but can be clipped off during transport in its box.
Print these with supports (obviously).

3) Caddx Vista mount
The included mount didn't really cover the front end of the lens. With this new adapters, it does.

Hope this will help anyone trying out the Viswhoop and enjoying it. It may not be the best frame, but it flies reasonably well. It's no racer or acrobatics monster, but for some tree/forest exploration it's just great :-)

Viswhoop optimization kit (propeller guards, VTX antenna mount, Caddx Vista mount)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5078351.

Updated version - it's no longer work-in-progress.

Video coming soon :-)
I moved the mounting holes for the stack a little to the front, so the Flywoo Hex 6in1 fits better. I also designed new TPU cam mounts for better protection.


--------------------------------

This is a 2" version of my Reliant 4" Y6 frame. It is currently work in progress.

I wanted to design the smallest Y6 frame that still flies great. Going down to 1,5" would have meant to many sacrifices, so i went for 2" instead. This way it can stay efficient and carry the DJI digital FPV system easily.
For my build i will be using Flywoo 1202.5 motors with 11.500kv.

You will need the following parts:

CNC cut (ask your workshop for "dog bones", then it will fit just nicely with minimal filing):
2 x main plate
3 x arm
6 x motor plate

3D-printed:
1 x cam mount left
1 x cam mount right
12 x spacer bolt 4mm
1 x vtx antenna mount

Hardware for mounting the arms to the main plates:
4 x 25mm spacer bolts (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831145268.html)
8 x M2 - 3mm screws

Hardware for mounting the motor plates to the arms:
12 x M2 - 10mm screws
12 x M2 nuts
(alternatively you can use a thread cutter and cut threads into the spacer bolts - then you'll need 24 M2 - 10mm screws)

I'm currently still working on it, so no videos yet (will add them ongoing). However this version should work out well already. Check out my 4" version for building details.


4" version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4845387

"Reliant mini" - 2" Y6 frame for fun!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743636.

Update 06-12-2021:

Just added a step-file, so you can make changes more easily.

Update 04-04-2021:

I build the frame and can confirm: it's finalized!

Update 03-01-2021:

As requested i uploaded an alternative version of the side plates that allow using a standard (non-stripped) Caddx Vista. I also added pictures so you can see the comparison. Everything else stayed the same.


----------------------

This is the "Sting" frame. The goal was to design a frame that would fullfill the following conditions:

- 2,5inch size (in my view the best compromise between size and flight characteristics
- 2s battery setup (super silent - park flyer9
- sub 100g total weight
- "naked" Caddx Vista (DJI HD)

With this frame the only 3d-printed part is the antenna holder. Print in TPU.

The top plate is optional - can be used instead of the side plates if you need more space. Current version of the side plates require a "naked" Caddx Vista. Looks way better being this slim :-)

Important info for CNC cutting: Please ask them to cut everything "as is". I already left some extra spacing around the female parts of the main plate. It should work fine in most cases. In some cases you might need to file down the male parts a little.

I design frames for fun - each one goest through 4 phases, which are documented on Youtube:

Concept & Design: https://youtu.be/wo-MyfFTyyg
Build video: https://youtu.be/Bq2J9Fh6MjY
Fly&Improve: video coming soon

You can find videos from all my frame design projects on my Youtube-Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/eyeflytinkerings

"Sting" freestyle frame - sub100g - 2s - 2,5" - DJI HD

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4758861.

Update 03-05-21:

Uploaded new version of the arms that allow 9mm and 12mm motor mounting patterns.

----------

This is the "Discovery" long-range frame. It is a strong redesign of the #minilongrange frame from Dave_C The goal was to design a frame that would fullfill the following conditions:

4" inch size (in my view the best compromise between size and flight characteristics
"one level design"
3s li-ion battery setup
light-weight, yet stable

I design frames for fun - each one goest through 4 phases, which are documented on Youtube. There you can also find lots more details about the frame:

Concept: https://youtu.be/MWxd5NSIigg
Design: https://youtu.be/k2EgaUF_MBU
Construction: https://youtu.be/Mm42wYFyWIw

You can find videos from all my frame design projects on my Youtube-Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/eyeflytinkerings



"Discovery" 4" long-range frame

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873347.

These adapter allow mounting the 5-7" Dalprop folding propellers to T-Mount motors. They also allow converting these propellers from a 3-blade version to a lighter 2-blade version.

There is a video about them here:
https://youtu.be/rve6SDWut-M

I tested this on an ultralight 7" longrange setup with Brotherhobby 2004 motors on 2s and it was working well.

With higher cell batteries they might break, as 3d-prints are less robust than injection molded polymers. However i'm pretty sure that up tp 4s should work just fine. Especially with the 3-blade-version, as it uses the injection molded stock upper part.

If you try them out, please share your experience in the comments. This would be much appreciated!

Dalprop folding propellers - Adapter for T-Mount motors - 2-blade conversion

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618279.

In order to reduce the weight on my DJI HD Camera, i replaced the main aluminium unit with a 3d-printed version. I copied the original 100%, so you can use the existing plastic bracket to mount the cable and keep it secure. There was another design on here that did not have that, and this felt a little too risky to me.

You can save 1.7g using this mod. It's done pretty straight forward, you just need a really small screwdriver to remove one screw the board is mounted with.

Please remember, this will most likely kill you warranty, and you do this on your own risk.

Printed in PETG.

DJI HD Camera weight reduction mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851826.

This design allows converting Dalprop and Gemfan folding propellers to be mounted on T-mount motors.
It also allows converting a 3-blade folding propeller into a 2-blade propeller.

These parts work fine for all sizes - from 3" to 7".

Currently only Dalprop adapter included - Gemfan will follow in a few days.

Print in PLA or PETG.

For more details please watch:


Folding propeller adapter - supports T-mount motors and 3-blade to 2-blade conversion

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5376371.

I wanted to create a mount for the camera and needed the dimensions. I couldn't find a model that i could use, so i draw one myself.

It's super basic, but covers the most important parts. Maybe it helps others in designing their mounts.

Caddx Nebula Nano Pro - very basic model

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568949.

Hi there!

As i tried mounting the Caddx Vista-camera (identical to the one from the original DJI HD combo), i realized i would need to have some kind of spacers. Also i wasn't too fond of the little arms to hold the camera.

Couldn't find what i was looking for on here, so i designed on myself. Printed in TPU. I made the holes a little smaller than M3, so i just pushed to mount to the titanium part and drilled the screw through the TPU. This way it was mounted quite nicely. However you can also use a longer screw, and counter it with a nut for the 2 screws in the back at least.

Armattan Marmotte DJI HD / Vista camera mount

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