Instead of buying a stand, I decided to make my own. It's really just meant for display to be honest, albeit functional for actually working on the RC car BUT it's 1:24 scale crawler so not like it needs to be on a stand to work on it unlike my 1:10 scale crawler lol

Modeled this for my SCX24 C-10. The top does rotate around but it's literally a peg in a hole and may remodel later on to include a 608 bearing which would be pretty easy to design, just didn't do it for this current version.

Made some honeycomb cutouts to cut down on material need and lets be honest, honeycomb just looks cool. The top can be printed without supports as it expands from the main pole on an angle to the base of the top of the stand. Use supports if you want but didn't need them with my Ender 3 S1 Pro.

Have fun printing!

Printer Used: Ender 3 S1 Pro

Base Size:

X - 1 MM
Y - 125 MM
Z - 30.36 MM

Top Size:

X - 60 MM
Y - 57 MM
Z - 75.6 MM

Cura settings:

Resolution: 0.2 MM
Print Temp: 210
Bed Temp: 60
Print Speed: 60 MM/S
Wall Speed: 40 MM/S
Build Plate Adhesion: Brim
Top/Bottom Layers: 4
Wall Line Count: 3
Infill: 25%
Infill Patter: Cubic
Retraction Distance: 0.8 MM
Retraction Speed: 45 MM/S
Supports: Not Needed

Filament Used: PolyMaker - PolyLite PLA Pro - Green

24 scale car stand base v3.stl

Made this from scratch in TinkerCad to be added to our table top RC Crawler course for the 1:24 scale crawlers we have. It's pretty simple as far as mechanics, I made the ramps two piece so you could place them on a bed easier if you have a smaller print bed. The other reason was since you'd be using M8 screws it adds extra counter balance weight to bring it back down to one side, I added multiple nuts to it to add extra weight and works perfectly.

I added diamond plate pattern to give extra texture for traction. You don't need the caps for the base to hold the ramps down, but doesn't hurt.

I super glued the approach ramps to it, but I guess you don't need them but makes it longer, but with added weight of bolt and nuts it will still come back down to one side even without the approach and departure ramps if you didn't want them.

Articulation Obstacle #2.stl

Made this from scratch in TinkerCad to be added to our table top RC Crawler course for the 1:24 scale crawlers we have. It's pretty simple as far as mechanics, I made the ramps two piece so you could place them on a bed easier if you have a smaller print bed. The other reason was since you'd be using M8 screws it adds extra counter balance weight to bring it back down to one side, I added multiple nuts to it to add extra weight and works perfectly.

I added diamond plate pattern to give extra texture for traction. You don't need the caps for the base to hold the ramps down, but doesn't hurt.

I super glued the approach ramps to it, but I guess you don't need them but makes it longer, but with added weight of bolt and nuts it will still come back down to one side even without the approach and departure ramps if you didn't want them.

UPDATE: VERSION 2

Base: The original dimensions were found on the manufactures website but unfortunately there weren't very clear on inner dimensions of inside tire to inside tire so the ramp was a little too wide and the diamond print on the top did not have enough grip for some of the tires on the 24th scale crawlers we had. Due to this I made the position of the base towers that the ramps sit in a little more close together, made them skinnier and shaved some uneeded material off of the base as well.

Base Caps: shaved the top to prevent any possible rubbing from inner tire and didn't need to be rounded on the top anyways.

Departure/Approach Ramps: no longer separate, instead integrated into the main ramps. Made them solid to make printing easier.

Main Ramps: Redesigned the ramps to be mirrored diagonal slots that come to a point that should have better grip VS the diamond plate pattern on original that was just too small at this scale to do anything for grip, especially the stock tires that come on the SCX24, if you have the proline tires they have way better grip and compound and would do fine regardless.

The original ramp seemed to fit a 1:18 scale car for the most part, otherwise I'd go with version 2 for 1:24 scale crawlers.

1:24 Scale RC Crawler Teeter Totter

Teeter Totter Base Caps.stl

24th scale VERSION 2 teeter totter base cap.stl

24th scale VERSION 2 teeter totter base.stl

24th scale VERSION 2 teeter totter ramp 2.stl

24th scale VERSION 2 teeter totter ramp 1.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5624502.

I printed out a Side Spool Holder for my Ender 3 V2 and realized my normal wheeled filament guide wouldn't cut it since the spool holder wasn't on the top anymore so came up with this simple guide that is mounted on the Z access screw guide using the existing screws.

Made it this way so it doesn't matter if it's printing at a low height or top height and is low enough to where the filament is easy to guide into the extruder.

Remix it if ya want, it's a rough model but it works well for my use.

Ender 3 V2 Filament Guide For Side Mounted Spool Placement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5406650.

Okay, so this is a little project of mine to make a printable disc golf cart glow box for my compact zuca that when I wanna go throw a glow round with some friends I can just take out my discs and swap em out for this box that should just slide right in.

I have an Ender 3 v2 so due to print surface constraints it's broken down into 4 pieces for the outter shell/box frame. I designed it with slots so it can be glued together pretty easily. I would advise to add support for the pieces that have the male end slots and some supports for the female end slots so they align properly.

the second part is a disc golf rack which I got off of here, I may design my own later but this was easier and fit in it pretty easily.

the last part that I haven't setup yet is the inserts that Mylar or some other reflective surface can be inserted when all the frame pieces get put together, there's slots in each section on the back and sides, due to printing constraints it may be easier to take some card board or something of similar thickness to add some Mylar or reflective material to.

what I was doing was going to add a UV strip light inside and since it's USB powered was going to power with a power bank with a USB A output, pretty easy to find on amazon. Once everything is printed i'll post more, I may want to adjust the front triangular supports on the frame so it's easier to get discs in and out. and may create a hinged front door type of thing to fully close out the box later on. Work in progress

Disc Golf Glow Box for Compact Zuca Cart 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5409026.

Okay, so had a buddy that wanted me to print out a surprised Patrick Star figure and another that wanted a T-Rex and I thought to myself......why not mesh both together and this atrocity is what came from that. I used freeCAD to splice the T-Rex and made a patrick star from scratch so it's a little wonky but easily recognizable, if someone remixes it with a better patrick head GO FOR IT.

This thing is what nightmares are made of hahaha

I will upload pictures once it's off the printer. at 200% scale on dynamic quality (0.16mm) is 7 ish hours, for dynamic quality at 420% scale in screenshot is more like 1 day 20 hours 45 minutes so may want to up the print speed from 50mms to higher if your printer/filament combo will allow it, but with standard quality (0.2mm) dropped it down to 1 day 6 hours

Pat-Rex Star

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