Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4630169.

Work in progress!

This is a part cooling fan for this design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2665491

The current version is untested and will be changed soon.

parts needed:
- 40mm*40mm*20mm radial fan
- 5015 blower fan
- a bunch of M3 screws and nuts

Geeetech i3 E3D direct drive extruder part cooling fan remix - Gen2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4587406.

Attention: This is my first attempt and the 4020 part cooling fan wasn't as good as I hoped it would be. Sunon fans don't work too well with pwm for some reasons. If this works fine for your fan, tell me which one you are using. But I recommend using Gen 2 instead. Gen 2 is designed for a single 5015 blower fan and a BL-Touch.

This is a part cooling fan mount/duct, that I designed for lipki's direct drive extruder design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2665491

This was my first attempt to create a fan duct, so it certainly has room for improvements. I couldn't find a position for a 5015 blower fan with which I was happy, so I used a 4020 radial fan for now.

If anyone wants to improve upon my design, I included my Fusion 360 project.

Plans for the next version:
- add ABL mount to the left side (BL-Touch or Inductive maybe)
- improve the angle of the part cooling fan duct
- try to switch to blower style part cooling fan (there are some issues with the space)

If you have any suggestions, just put them in the comments.

Geeetech i3 E3D direct drive extruder part cooling fan remix - Gen1

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223739.

I added a little plate to add a switch for the LED lights. The switch I used is rated for 250V/15A or 125V/20A, so it is complete overkill, but I really like its look. This is the switch, that I used: https://www.ebay.de/itm/10x-Kippschalter-SPST-12V-24V-250V-Volt-15A-EIN-AUS-ON-OFF-2polig-Auto-KFZ-Boot/133229766492?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The original by Chris Riley: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952294

The light bar: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135488

LED wire end cap 2020 extrusion with added switch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3996773.

The old version instantly broke, when I inserted the cable chain. I fixed it with a soldering iron, but it soon broke again. This version should not breake as easy. I simple added a block in 3D Builder to reinforce it.

The original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1735193

Extruder Cable Chain Mount simple Reinforcement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579505.

This Z-axis adjustment knob has a M8 thread and can be screwed on the end of the lead screw of a i3-style printer with metric M8 threaded rods for the Z-axis. The main purpose is it to make adjusting the dual lead screw easier, so that you can easily have them both on the same height.

I am using M3 square nuts with M3 8mm screws to prevent the knob from unscrewing.

I am planning to change it to T8 threads as soon as my new leadscrews arrive.

i3 axis adjustment knob

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461678.

I wanted to add this dragon head to my Hero Me, so I cut off just the part with the skull and the mounting holes for a 40mm fan.

Dragon Fan guard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4300714.

I have mounted the orginal bearings upside down and added more in the old place of them to make the carriage more rigid. But this also meant that the wobble fixes from others wouldn't work anymore for me. So I designed my own anti wobble fix, that grips onto the outside of the bearing instead of the smooth rod and is a bit longer to get the arms on the right height.

I am using 3 M3 15mm screws for each side.

The additional bearings were added with this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3997593

Geeetech i3 Pro W Z axis wobble fix for unusual bearing configuration

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543033.

I only had M3 T-nuts, so I remixed it. To compensate for the smaller screws, I increased the amount.

2020 Handle remixed for M3 screws

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671539.

A simple replacement part for the Nintendo Score Master. It has a diameter of 5cm and uses a single M6 nut that is inserted with a soldering iron.

Nintendo Score Master Knob

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3997593.

Because the original version broke too easily, I reinforced it a little bit. I mounted the old bearings facing downwards and added cheap LM8UUs inside of this. This fixes the amount of flexing the thin sheet metal allows.

This version has only one side in the file. For the other one simply mirror it. I find this easier in case one part breaks and you want to replace it.

Since Thingiverse stopped showing the original anymore, just follow the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3711124
(I would still prefer if Thingiverse would finally fix this or at least answer me, why the removed this important feature.)

Geeetech X-Carriage Anti-Ghosting primitive reinforcement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906388.

This is a simple remix of the common Creality plastic extruder arm. I modified it in such a way, that it should be easy to print with minimal support and maybe a bit more durability.

This is based on the CR-10 model on Github: https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/CR-10

Maybe this file will help someone to print a short term solution for his printer. It is always recommended to just get a metal extruder as soon as possible, but due to holidays or pandemics you might not always get them, when you need them.

Modified Creality Stock Extruder Arm - Optimized for printing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4751020.

This is a simple replacement insert for the Aukey microphone arm. It is far longer than the original to limit the amount of wiggle and to limit the effect wear has on its function.

Aukey Microphone Arm Replacement Insert

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544302.

This simple cover was designed to protect the backside of the tester and have the battery easily accesible, but not dangling behind it. It uses 4 M3 8mm screws (but smaller screws would work too)

Component tester backside with battery holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457424.

I used round small levelling wheels before, but couldn't get enough grip. Especially with those wheels in the back, that are hard to reach. Since the printer didn't allow for any bigger wheels, I instead created knobs, that are easier to push due to its wings.

Leveling wheel for i3 style printer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4554609.

Due to the mod done by Morpheus_79 (https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/26421-Etwas-mehr-aus-einer-ZD-915-Entl%C3%B6tstation-rausholen/) I wanted to add a step down converter to my ZD-915 too instead of the old 5W resistors. This plate is designed to use the old holes for the old mounting holes for the black box and the following step down converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32833258033.html

ZD-915 Step down mounting plate

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457918.

This Echo Dot holder is designed to fit a Gen2 Echo Dot and keep it on top of a 57mmx45mm wooden bar. All these values can be changed as parameters in the design.

Parametric Echo Dot holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4363441.

Because I wanted to convert to this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2665491 (to be more precise: To the more advanced version linked in the comment section: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fa9217ab41d866edf34d7cb9/w/6c2f3b6882b3855566c34532/e/09b8242b3d7284616b629343) I couldn't use the old mount on the carriage side anymore. Therefore I designed a compatible new one, that slides over the backside of the extruder motor.

Chain Motor Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4543759.

I designed this, so it can be printed on the Ender 3 as well (because my modded Ender 3 is simply much quieter). It uses 8 M3 T-nuts and screws (use at least 8mm long ones, 10mm are most likely easier to install)

CR-10 reinforcement angle/brace

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