Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322884.

I love hamkers design and the fit for the squash balls. I needed those feet for my Chiron.
The squash ball is firmly seated and does not fall down when lifted.
I removed the rubber pads from the feet.
You'll have to print it mirrored twice.

Chiron Squash Ball Feet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323073.

I love hamkers design and the fit for the squash balls. I needed that feet for my I3 Mega.
The squash ball is firmly seated and does not fall down when lifted.
I used one M5 cap head screws per foot.

I3 Mega Squash Ball Feet M5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323094.

I love hamkers design and the fit for the squash balls. I needed that feet for my Renkforce RF100.
The squash ball is firmly seated and does not fall down when lifted.
I used one M4 cap head screws per foot.

RF100 Squash Ball Feet M4

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364380.

Update 2019-01-28:
Unfortunately, my first attempt, as described below, did not work. The E3D hotend needed more space and the component cooler was in the way. I couldn't compensate for that in the design. Now I have changed another design and I have to use a different component cooler. You don't need an adapter for the E3D hotend, you can lower the noise level of the component cooler and everything can be printed without support. Unfortunately I had to build an extension cable for the leveling sensor, because the connection is too far away. 

The following component cooler is used now:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3130556

What needs to be adjusted after the modification:
The heating bed must be turned very far upwards. After the autoleveling my offset is now at 25.00. This is due to the short design of the E3D.



Post 2019-01-20:
Hi, I think jangermann concept is really nice and I wanted to rebuild it for the E3D V6 hotend. It was important to me that the auto leveling sensor could still be attached. Furthermore the cable/bowden protection on the left side was too far away and was corrected. I wanted an open and minimalist design, so that in case of a fault the whole case didn't have to be removed. I designed the bracket on the right side like the original, so that the fan sits in the same place. I tried it with three different fan duct components, all of which fit.

Chiron E3Dv6 hotend upgrade V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364352.

I was looking for a way to connect the arm directly to any camera that has a ¼ inch screw. I use the screw on the picture.

Adapter Logitech C922 or other with ¼ inch screw

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3325152.

I found the idea not bad to move the display to another location. Unfortunately, the mount was too slanted for me, because my printer is at eye level and the display is already slightly tilted through the case. In addition, you can now print the entire mount as one part and no longer need glue. Furthermore, in my version, you no longer need a screw connection to hold the display to the frame. If you want to print without support, you can also print the two holders for the aluminum profile separately and then glue everything together.
I redesigned the model because the holes didn't fit 100%.

Chiron LCD Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364371.

My endstop was too far to the left. Thus the endstop of the X axis is again at the origin.

Chiron endstop adapter

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