How do i make my own collapsable models? I want to know how you made this test print so I can try modelling my own version of It in blender myself. sorry if its a dumb question but I don't know how people make collapsable swords and stuff as there isn't any tutorials online
None of my shells fused together but neither do they stop themselves when extending, they simply fall through each other. I checked out your "Printing collapsible lightsabers and swords" with your recommendations but no luck.
Any further advice?
Its just a test to verify that they wont fuse. There is a newer test that measures at what clearance they fuse to give you a better idea of success. If no seams touch or there are no strings, then there shouldn't be a issue.
Two layers, what do you mean by that? Typically if this happens its because the test print was slightly attached but came apart because it was not very tall. Once printed at full height, its harder to separate. Or, the blades came loose from the bed. You will need good bed adhesion. Personally I like like a clean smooth PEI sheet for PLA.
Hello. Thanks for making this great model! Have you tried printing these with scarf joints? I love scarf joints because you can barely see the seams. If so, what settings do you recommend in Orca Slicer 2.2.0? I'm using a Bambu A1 with Overture PETG.
I played around with the many different settings and I'm getting a lot of stringing on the inner arcs of the test print. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Scaling it down will make it harder, especially without reducing your nozzle size. I would get the replaceable blade version and print the blades separately in vase mode.
I've tried adjusting flow, retraction, coast, wipe. I have no idea what to do. In every single print, the only problem is with the seams melding together. Please help
Check "minimum travel after retraction" if its set higher than .4mm, lower it. It could cause your printer not to retract at all. You can also verify in the viewer that its retracting.
"I change retraction settings every 8mm"
How are the retraction settings at the top different than at the bottom? I've gotten to the point where the top is fairly close and I'd like to move more in that direction. Problem is, Orca has 14 different retraction settings and I don't know which one(s) to mess with, in what direction, and by how much?
I have printed a Katana that failed and this test print which has failed as well. I broke apart the katana and I'm pretty sure I found the problem. The first layers seem thicker than the rest, causing them to blob out and fuse to the other telescopic parts. I am currently using Cura on an Ender 3 V3 SE. I'm kinda new to 3D printing... Are there any specific settings I can change to fix this?
Bonjour,
le souci que tu décris ressemble beaucoup a un pied d'éléphant.
vérifie ta hauteur de première couche ainsi que son débit. Sa devrait régler ton problème
Without the adhesion layer and z-seam set to random I was able to get this test piece working. The only problem is that the surface is rough, due to the seems. Is that expected? What would be a way to smooth these little bumps?
Yes, I mean you can change if you want a larger layer height but .4mm works as well. You can go bigger than the nozzle but never smaller. I forget exactly how big maybe 2.5 or 3x's. You can also increase your layer height so it wont take as long. Don't go bigger than .3mm heights with a .4mm nozzle.
Thats your layer change seam. You need to try to tweak your retraction settings; distance, speed, extra restart, coast, wipe, print speed, accel, ext...
Or Print the removeable blade version,then the blades can be printed separately in vase mode.
im so lost on how to make this print, i was using cura but i couldnt get anything but a paperweight so i went with prusa slicer and i just cant dial it in to get this to print.
The goal is for the pieces to be free after printing. It could stick together on the bottom layer, all the way around, or at the seam. If you let me know your issue, I can try to help.
Discussions — Sword-Saber Test Print
Did you go up or down with the retraction settings? think I'm getting close just wanna see what you did.
There are different settings; distance, speed, coast, wipe, extra restart distance.
How do i make my own collapsable models? I want to know how you made this test print so I can try modelling my own version of It in blender myself. sorry if its a dumb question but I don't know how people make collapsable swords and stuff as there isn't any tutorials online
I use Autodesk Inventor, its more similar to Fusion. No sure about blender but I'm trying to make some time to learn.
None of my shells fused together but neither do they stop themselves when extending, they simply fall through each other. I checked out your "Printing collapsible lightsabers and swords" with your recommendations but no luck. Any further advice?
Its just a test to verify that they wont fuse. There is a newer test that measures at what clearance they fuse to give you a better idea of success. If no seams touch or there are no strings, then there shouldn't be a issue.
hey do i use supports or no i use a creality k1 with a 0.4 nozzle
No supports
Hey I printed this and it wasn't fused but when I printed the actual sword, 2 layers fused and I used the same settings
Two layers, what do you mean by that? Typically if this happens its because the test print was slightly attached but came apart because it was not very tall. Once printed at full height, its harder to separate. Or, the blades came loose from the bed. You will need good bed adhesion. Personally I like like a clean smooth PEI sheet for PLA.
Hello. Thanks for making this great model! Have you tried printing these with scarf joints? I love scarf joints because you can barely see the seams. If so, what settings do you recommend in Orca Slicer 2.2.0? I'm using a Bambu A1 with Overture PETG.
I played around with the many different settings and I'm getting a lot of stringing on the inner arcs of the test print. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I am aware of the setting but I have not tired it yet. I think I will in the near future.
If I split up the blades, how do I assemble it?
What setting should i use to print collapsing katana at 70 percent scale
Scaling it down will make it harder, especially without reducing your nozzle size. I would get the replaceable blade version and print the blades separately in vase mode.
how can i split each sword piece into a different model so i can just print 1 at a time
You should be able to separate the bodies in your slicer. Also why print the parts individually, this really only tests bed adhesion and layer seam.
My mid circle had fused entirely with outer one on the Seam. Any tip for this?
Is it only on the first layer? If so, raise your first layer height.
Ok! Also what would be a good Layer Height for this test (and the swords)? Atm i am using 0.2mm.
That’s what I’m using
my z Seam are making the smallest piece stick together on my bambu x1 carbon do you now what setting I should tweak in bambu studio
retraction settings.
I've tried adjusting flow, retraction, coast, wipe. I have no idea what to do. In every single print, the only problem is with the seams melding together. Please help
I'm still having this issue as well printing this on a Prusa MINI. Any ideas?
Check "minimum travel after retraction" if its set higher than .4mm, lower it. It could cause your printer not to retract at all. You can also verify in the viewer that its retracting.
Retraction settings, find the troubleshooting guide and the test print.
Most slicers allow you to randomize the line start point, that might make it easier to separate since the pointers are more spread out
Increase line width mate
Can I use a 2mm nozzle? Thats all I have at the moment, and I'd like to whip one or two up for my kids. TIA!
2mm?!?!?😲 no, .2mm yes.
"I change retraction settings every 8mm" How are the retraction settings at the top different than at the bottom? I've gotten to the point where the top is fairly close and I'd like to move more in that direction. Problem is, Orca has 14 different retraction settings and I don't know which one(s) to mess with, in what direction, and by how much?
Sorry I cant help you with this because its going to be dependent on your printer.
I have printed a Katana that failed and this test print which has failed as well. I broke apart the katana and I'm pretty sure I found the problem. The first layers seem thicker than the rest, causing them to blob out and fuse to the other telescopic parts. I am currently using Cura on an Ender 3 V3 SE. I'm kinda new to 3D printing... Are there any specific settings I can change to fix this?
Bonjour, le souci que tu décris ressemble beaucoup a un pied d'éléphant. vérifie ta hauteur de première couche ainsi que son débit. Sa devrait régler ton problème
god damm this hard so far on my sixth try with chanign the seam alignment settings hah this hard. Also changed the wall expansion too that might work
Is the model supposed to telescope at all? My print has them all falling through
Sirsweatson is correct, the idea is that parts are loose. Typically its a large layer seam that causes them to stick together, or even tiny strings.
he said in a video, that if they separate with no issues, that's a good print
how do use this with vase mode???
Nope, this test is for printing the print in place version.
Without the adhesion layer and z-seam set to random I was able to get this test piece working. The only problem is that the surface is rough, due to the seems. Is that expected? What would be a way to smooth these little bumps?
I've hear some people having luck with it only on random and some on a line. Random does not look as nice.
I have Ender S1 Pro and it prints fine, but the cylinders fuse on tiny line on the side.
In vase mode its only one wall but you make it .85mm thick so the wall thickness and the strength stays similar.
Sorry was concerned more about the wall thinkness. If you use a 0.4 nozzle won't it be weak print with only 1 wall.
Yes, I mean you can change if you want a larger layer height but .4mm works as well. You can go bigger than the nozzle but never smaller. I forget exactly how big maybe 2.5 or 3x's. You can also increase your layer height so it wont take as long. Don't go bigger than .3mm heights with a .4mm nozzle.
if you use the vase mode option do you still use a 0.4 nozzle?
Thats your layer change seam. You need to try to tweak your retraction settings; distance, speed, extra restart, coast, wipe, print speed, accel, ext...
Or Print the removeable blade version,then the blades can be printed separately in vase mode.
where the circle stops when it prints
Hello,
The bed layer is sticking together, am i missing something?
Your first layer must be too low causing "elephants foot". Try adjusting bed level or first layer offset in your printer(Live Z).
Are there some settings that are special. they just stick together
Where are they sticking together? First layer, seam, or all around?
im so lost on how to make this print, i was using cura but i couldnt get anything but a paperweight so i went with prusa slicer and i just cant dial it in to get this to print.
The goal is for the pieces to be free after printing. It could stick together on the bottom layer, all the way around, or at the seam. If you let me know your issue, I can try to help.
For cura just set the z seam alignment to random with 1mm of wall wipe it makes the blade a little bumpy but it works great
Can this be printed on a single head printer. I don't have a dual head printer
Yes, dual extrusion is not required.