How are you printing the blades, in vase mode? If so, increase your line width, it should be .9mm. If you are printing the blades all at once, it would be a "extrusion Multiplier" adjustment.
My test print came out great, but when printing Concentric the blades don't come out that far is their a suggestion for making the walls a bit smaller to have them come out more, like you can in vase mode?
these are terrible files if printed separately how are meant to MASTER SWORD-QUAD-G onto the handle also MASTER SWORD-QUAD-Y cant be out onto the handle i would a refund for the subscription as the model doesn't work
First off those files you mention are for the multi-color version, not this one. Also please read the description, they are for a multi-color printer like a IDEX, MMU, AMS. They are not designed to be printed separately then assembled.
If you see the test print and trouble shooting guide you will find some tips. Personally I would try printing the blades separately in vase mode. There is more info on this in the guide as well.
Printed out one of these and the screw on pommel is nigh impossible to screw down all the way. On top of that, hilt snapped during normal use and pommel fused to threads and broke off after trying to unscrew it. Not really sure what went wrong. Used some tricolor Kingroon PLA. .4 nozzle, .16mm layer height, 15% infill.
• Reprint the pommel with the cap just below the bed surface in your slicer to allow it to rotate more.
• Reprint the pommel scaled up slightly.
• Tighten the pommel really tight, wait a day to allow the plastic to creep and loosen. Tight it again and repeat until it lines up.
Too Loose
My pommel looks like it works but doesn’t fit all the way in the right orientation. It only turns most of the way on but stops short and is crooked. Any tips?
You can try a couple things, if its really close tighten it fairly tight and wait a day or so. it will loosen up from the plastic creeping. Doing this a few times can get you as much as 30-45 degrees. Or, you can try printing the cap slightly below the bed. It will chop this part off and not print it. .25mm might get you 30 degrees or so but that's just a estimate.
I have a prusa mini so the highest i can go is 180 mm, but all of your models are bigger. could you make a verision where it works to make them at 180 mm height?
What settings should I use I have a voxelab Aquila model s2 and I use cura I just got my 3d printer and built it I do not know what settings for master sword or to put on my 3d printer for this print
What settings should I use I have a voxelab Aquila model s2 and I use cura I just got my 3d printer and built it I do not know what settings for master sword or to put on my 3d printer for this print
I have tried printing this concentrically and only have about 10mm that extends from each portion of the blade. I have basically no z-seam and have tuned in my retraction settings, but no matter what I do in Cura it will not print the walls smaller and my "Line Width" setting is at .3mm now and still no luck. I have printed it five times and every time the blades are NOT stuck to each other but there is not enough clearance to extend them. What am I doing wrong?
Sorry for the late reply, I missed this somehow. if you seam is good, but the blades are just too light printing concentrically it sounds like you are over extruding. Changing your line width wont help, but changing our extruder multiplier will. If your at 100% now, I bet 90% will fix the issue.
However kinda of a guess, I would suggest "calibrating your extruder". print a block in vase mode with no top. Measure the wall thinkness to your "line width" thinkness, they should match.
how do i print the first blade in vase mode with a solid top layer? i cant find an option in cura to activate top layer while in vase mode. i also cant find this option in prusa slicer
Either Cura does not do it, or no one knows where the setting is because this has come up a lot lately. I would just flip the blade upside down and turn on bottom layers and a brim so it does not tip over.
PrusaSlicer won't let me do that, either. As soon as you try changing the top layers, it pops up a dialog saying it will turn off spiral mode since the options aren't compatible.
I initially used an Ender-7 which doesn't work well with slicers that aren't the creality flavour of Cura(4.8) as well as my Ender 3-v2 on Cura 5.1. I tried in both the "Assy" model as well as the vase mode but the vase mode on both. The Vase mode of both versions of Cura started causing over-extrusion at the edges 15CM up on both. Sorry for the new comment. It's not letting me reply to your response.
I separated the blade assembly parts that can be printed in non-vase mode for those who had issues with it like I did. I can either share them with 3dprintingworld or publish it with credit given to 3dprinting world if they would like.
I would guess that the first layer is a little low and you have some elephants foot. Feel the inside the the blade that prints on the bed for a ledge. If there is one use a exacto knife or a file and remove it.
If that is not it, measure the thickness of the blade and compare that to what you have set in your slicer. If this is off, you would adjust your "flow rate/extrusion Multiplier" until they match and try printing them again.
Blade Printing. So i kind of had some issues printing the blades. i scaled the print to 110%. i do not fully understand the settings, i am very new to 3d printing. so i printed #1 with a 10 top and bottom, for strength, and no infill. the rest of the blades i printed in vase mode in cura. everything printed very well, a little wobbly at the top, but came out great. this was until i tried to put the blades together. we will just just say they did not collapse or extend. i am pretty sure this is because i used 2-4 walls at a thickness of .8mm im not totally sure, again really new to 3d printing. i think my misunderstanding is on how many wall and the wall thickness. i do not full understand all that mess when reading the instructions. i want to print in vase mode!!. any and all help is welcome!! thank you!!
Vase mode means it will print in one spiral around the outside of the part so there is only one wall and no seams. You need to increase your line thickness to .85mm, so it equals two walls. You can print bigger than your nozzle size, but not smaller. Try printing two blades and they should catch. If they don't, increase wall thickness by .05mm or so and try again.
do you by any chance have the collapsible blade pieces in individual files? the 2 bigger pieces are stuck together and i don't want to have to print it all again just for those.
I just realized i jumped the gun on this comment. I did not slice the blades after putting them in cura and looking at the preview. sorry about that. Awesome model!
I would keep going up, it will eventually work .05 is a very small amount. I'm discovering that it changes a little depending on filament. The angle is so slight that a little bit makes a big difference.
Easy fix, try turning your line with up roughly .05mm, print two and give it a try. You want them to catch around 30-40mm. If they still don't catch, turn it up a little more until you get it right.
so it prints well in vase mode but the blades are to small to fit inside each other when I bring down to 97% scale. The outside blade has so much space inside that the next blade just falls through it. Guess i have to play with it some more.
Can you tell me what print speed you used? I am getting shifting on my print (appears to wobble) on the higher layers when printing in vase mode (cura - spirialize outer contour).
If it is of use to anyone, I had the same struggles on my Ender 3 S1. Besides printing very slowly (I print at 10mm/s) and assuming nothing mechanical is out of whack, enabling acceleration control in Cura and bringing that way down (100ms2) finally solved it for me.
I found that my bed had a slight wobble to it. So I tightened the eccentrics and that helped a bit. I also used a brim while printing in vase mode. I’m going to try lowering the speed as well. This is my first larger print so I’ve been running into pitfall after pitfall but I’m determined to print it lol.
Are we talking about printing the blades in vase mode? You are having layer shifting on a vase mode print? That seems odd. I'm going slow, I think 40-50mm/min. Speed is controlled by cooling in this case. If I go faster it does not cool fast enough and cant support its own weight. I have good cooling, if you dont you will need to go slower. If you are having issues with bed adhesion, just add a brim. (I would not use brim if printing concentrically)
I tried lowering the print speed and adding a brim and I am also having the same problem you are experiencing at about 70% of the blades. Whether I print them individually with vase mode or concentrically with all the blades. I am using the ender 3 s1 and creality slicer.
Great Design! I just have one question, when I am printing the blades out in vase mode, there are a bunch of lines interconnecting the blades. Do you know why this is happening? Do I have something wrong with my settings?
Edit: I am using an Ender 3 printer with Cura as my slicing software.
Fantastic design. I have just one question. I printed the entire thing, finished the hilt last night. I printed all of the blade pieces at .8mm, with everything at 100%. Blade 5 gives a little resistance to the hilt, but it still slips out. Should I upsize the final one slightly, or am I missing something?
Edit: For anyone in the future that has the same problem, I scaled part 5 to 100.5% for both the x and y axes. Works like a charm.
Strange... Scaling the last blade should work. You may have to increase your wall thickness slightly to make up for the scaling the ID?
Another option would be to increase your extrusion multiplier slightly, but that would change the ID and OD.
Printed blades 1 and 2, but 1 will not slide into 2 all the way. What should the overall wall thickness be? line width is at .42 and wall line width at .85, do I print with only one wall?
Wanted to print the blade all in one, but when slicing it looks like it's 2 walls with a gap between them for each blade. Do I need 100% infill or something here?
What is your line width? Typically its suggested to go slightly larger then your nozzle. The blades have .85mm walls but if .43 LW's dont work, .44 or .45 should.
Ignore my question - Obviously for the first blade you need the top layer or your sword will have an opening at the end, but all subsequent you want them open top and bottom so the others slide through. This thing is a masterpiece. Thank you.
I have not broke a hilt yet so I'm not sure where its weak point would be, I think the blades would break first. It's pretty light duty for aesthetics, some walls are thin so no point in wasting filament where there is more material. I don't think the type of infill has as much impact as wall thickness. I would probably print the first one 2 wall, 15%. If there are issues, it breaks, or I wanted a second one I might make it heavier, 3 walls, 25% infill.
Thanks for the stls. Can you tell me, what i must say in cura to print it in vase mode with a 0.4 nozzle that it fits to 100% scale? Blade 4 fall through blade 5. I use to print a anycubic Vyper with the 0.4 nozzle
If your .5mm nozzle doesn't have a issue with printing the hilt, you can print at 100% scale. If you print the blades in vase mode.
If 100% scale doesn't work, .5mm is 1.25x's .4mm so scale it by 1.25x's and use use .25 layer heights. .55mm line width unless in vase mode then 1.06mm.
Just Printed this on my Prusa MK3S+. I did .30mm layers for the handle end cap. The Blade I did Print in place on .20mm stock Prusa slicer settings and it printed perfectly. No fusing issues. My only issue is in the end cap of the handle. It screws about 95% in. I am wondering if the .30mm layer height is making the threads thicker and causing this? Do you think re printing the handle and and cap in .20mm would help? Hope that makes sense.
Yes, I think this could be it. There is a interference fit so when it tight, its lined up. With different layer heights it must have changed the amount of interference.
Personally, I would try the cap at the same layer height but sink it slightly into the bed maybe .2mm so the bottom doesn't print. That distance is a guess...
Thank you so much just one last question, in the description it says to set the line width to .85, but with a .4 nozzle the slicing software says it's not recommended, would .8 work fine?
PrusaSlicer, vase mode gets disabled when adding a top layer. I was able to print it in vase mode by starting at the tip without a top layer. It held to my bed without a brim.
I am still working on some settings to get the blade overlap near 35mm.
Thank you for this masterpiece. I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3S+ here. The PrusaSlicer tells me the model (BASE) is too high. When I scale it down, I'll get some holes at the sides. Do you know how I can best solve the problem?
Nice model. Im printing at 70.5% with line width 0.6 but the top two parts still overlap like 50mm on the inside (vase mode). I calculated that 70.5% should be 0.6 in line with but maybe i have to increase the size to 71-72%? I measured the walls and they are almost exactly 0.6 in width.
By overlap do you mean that the blades catch by 50mm? That's not to far off, I think I aimed for 35mm. The more they overlap the stronger they are. Personally I would try reducing your extrusion multiplier by around 3-5%, if you want it closer to 35mm.
I am unable to print in vase mode due to a couple problems so I'm trying to print the blades in concentrically. They print fine but will only extend a small amount from each other (total of maybe 10cm). I have line width at 0.42 and am using a 0.4mm nozzle. What can I do to make these blades thinner? Thanks
I would measure the thickness of the blade walls and compare that to .42mm. Make sure you measure the top of the blade, not the surface printed on the bed. If its not .42, calibrate your extruder.
Reducing your flow rate can otherwise help or some slicers have horizontal size compensation.
Hi, I encountered this same problem using Cura when trying to slice blade 1. I recently tried to slice blade 1 without the vase mode on, wall count set to 1, infill set to 0%, and turning on 'enable ironing' settings, and eventually it worked. Haven't printed it out yet though, hope it helps!
Discussions — Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade
It would be great if you could make a rounded tip for this sword. My kids love the sword, but I'm afraid they will hurt their eyes.
There is no test part, you have to cut the assembled blade down in the slicer to test
See link above under "Concentric"
Why is it that when I try to print the 1st 2 blade segments and then test the parts they fit into each other but don't slide.
It's like there's not enough clearance. I'm new to printing so no idea what is wrong. Followed instructions and still no joy.
How are you printing the blades, in vase mode? If so, increase your line width, it should be .9mm. If you are printing the blades all at once, it would be a "extrusion Multiplier" adjustment.
Hi When I print them together they stick and when I print them separately in vase mode it just fall off
Can you help?
When printing in vase mode you need to increase your line width, see the troubleshooting page for more information.
Quando stampo la spada estraibile mi rimane incastrata e i pezzi non scorrono come posso risolvere ? Uso una bambù p1s nozze 0.4
My test print came out great, but when printing Concentric the blades don't come out that far is their a suggestion for making the walls a bit smaller to have them come out more, like you can in vase mode?
these are terrible files if printed separately how are meant to MASTER SWORD-QUAD-G onto the handle also MASTER SWORD-QUAD-Y cant be out onto the handle i would a refund for the subscription as the model doesn't work
First off those files you mention are for the multi-color version, not this one. Also please read the description, they are for a multi-color printer like a IDEX, MMU, AMS. They are not designed to be printed separately then assembled.
everything printed and looks great though the blade is stuck and will not extend any reason why that might be ??
If you see the test print and trouble shooting guide you will find some tips. Personally I would try printing the blades separately in vase mode. There is more info on this in the guide as well.
Printed out one of these and the screw on pommel is nigh impossible to screw down all the way. On top of that, hilt snapped during normal use and pommel fused to threads and broke off after trying to unscrew it. Not really sure what went wrong. Used some tricolor Kingroon PLA. .4 nozzle, .16mm layer height, 15% infill.
Here are some tips :
• Reprint the pommel with the cap just below the bed surface in your slicer to allow it to rotate more. • Reprint the pommel scaled up slightly. • Tighten the pommel really tight, wait a day to allow the plastic to creep and loosen. Tight it again and repeat until it lines up. Too Loose
My pommel looks like it works but doesn’t fit all the way in the right orientation. It only turns most of the way on but stops short and is crooked. Any tips?
You can try a couple things, if its really close tighten it fairly tight and wait a day or so. it will loosen up from the plastic creeping. Doing this a few times can get you as much as 30-45 degrees. Or, you can try printing the cap slightly below the bed. It will chop this part off and not print it. .25mm might get you 30 degrees or so but that's just a estimate.
I have a prusa mini so the highest i can go is 180 mm, but all of your models are bigger. could you make a verision where it works to make them at 180 mm height?
I tried to make it as short as possible but still look correct. If you change to a .3mm nozzle you can print it at 75% scale.
where do i get the file for the triforce stone base ?
That is not mine but another user pointed out that it was on Printable. I love the concept, I might design my own version. 🤔
What settings should I use I have a voxelab Aquila model s2 and I use cura I just got my 3d printer and built it I do not know what settings for master sword or to put on my 3d printer for this print
What settings should I use I have a voxelab Aquila model s2 and I use cura I just got my 3d printer and built it I do not know what settings for master sword or to put on my 3d printer for this print
Hey, I have a computer that does not support cura, and was wondering if you could make a pre finished blade part like the ASSY but actually working
There is one in the "Replaceable blade" version.
I have tried printing this concentrically and only have about 10mm that extends from each portion of the blade. I have basically no z-seam and have tuned in my retraction settings, but no matter what I do in Cura it will not print the walls smaller and my "Line Width" setting is at .3mm now and still no luck. I have printed it five times and every time the blades are NOT stuck to each other but there is not enough clearance to extend them. What am I doing wrong?
If they dont match, adjust your "extruder multiplier/flow rate" until they match.
Sorry for the late reply, I missed this somehow. if you seam is good, but the blades are just too light printing concentrically it sounds like you are over extruding. Changing your line width wont help, but changing our extruder multiplier will. If your at 100% now, I bet 90% will fix the issue.
However kinda of a guess, I would suggest "calibrating your extruder". print a block in vase mode with no top. Measure the wall thinkness to your "line width" thinkness, they should match.
how do i print the first blade in vase mode with a solid top layer? i cant find an option in cura to activate top layer while in vase mode. i also cant find this option in prusa slicer
Either Cura does not do it, or no one knows where the setting is because this has come up a lot lately. I would just flip the blade upside down and turn on bottom layers and a brim so it does not tip over.
Have you figured out how to add a top layer in cura for blade 1 so it’s not hollow?
Flip the blade over and print it upside down. Just make sure you add a brim to keep it on the bed.
PrusaSlicer won't let me do that, either. As soon as you try changing the top layers, it pops up a dialog saying it will turn off spiral mode since the options aren't compatible.
I believe you just sent the number of top layers, in PS anyways.
parfait Jai une Ender 3 vitesse a 50mms j'adore merci
Has anyone tried to print the blade in PETG? I just made one out of PLA and it worked great in vase mode
Yes, PETG works good as well. Maybe a little bit stronger.
on the Assy part I printed it, but the blades are stuck how do I fix this?
Are you saying you printed the assembly stl? That is for pictorial reference only and wont print properly.
I initially used an Ender-7 which doesn't work well with slicers that aren't the creality flavour of Cura(4.8) as well as my Ender 3-v2 on Cura 5.1. I tried in both the "Assy" model as well as the vase mode but the vase mode on both. The Vase mode of both versions of Cura started causing over-extrusion at the edges 15CM up on both. Sorry for the new comment. It's not letting me reply to your response.
Strange that it happens only in vase mode? 🤔
I separated the blade assembly parts that can be printed in non-vase mode for those who had issues with it like I did. I can either share them with 3dprintingworld or publish it with credit given to 3dprinting world if they would like.
What slicer are you using? This can be done in Pursaslicer. Not sure why you would want to print a segment separately and not do it in vase mode. .
This sounds stupid but it wont let me print blade #3.
ya, every time I try to download the stl into my thumb drive it just says error but doesn't explain why its not working. but every other print works.
The print is failing, in vase mode?
Can't get any of them to slide they stop about half or 3/4 of the way. Changed wall thickness to .8 and still didn't help. Any suggestions?
I would guess that the first layer is a little low and you have some elephants foot. Feel the inside the the blade that prints on the bed for a ledge. If there is one use a exacto knife or a file and remove it.
If that is not it, measure the thickness of the blade and compare that to what you have set in your slicer. If this is off, you would adjust your "flow rate/extrusion Multiplier" until they match and try printing them again.
Blade Printing. So i kind of had some issues printing the blades. i scaled the print to 110%. i do not fully understand the settings, i am very new to 3d printing. so i printed #1 with a 10 top and bottom, for strength, and no infill. the rest of the blades i printed in vase mode in cura. everything printed very well, a little wobbly at the top, but came out great. this was until i tried to put the blades together. we will just just say they did not collapse or extend. i am pretty sure this is because i used 2-4 walls at a thickness of .8mm im not totally sure, again really new to 3d printing. i think my misunderstanding is on how many wall and the wall thickness. i do not full understand all that mess when reading the instructions. i want to print in vase mode!!. any and all help is welcome!! thank you!!
Vase mode means it will print in one spiral around the outside of the part so there is only one wall and no seams. You need to increase your line thickness to .85mm, so it equals two walls. You can print bigger than your nozzle size, but not smaller. Try printing two blades and they should catch. If they don't, increase wall thickness by .05mm or so and try again.
The hilt is too tall to fit on the MK3S+ without modifications. It looks like if you cut off the first bit of the sword it will fit
I'm sorry, that sucks. You can scale it down, if you print the blades in vase mode and use a .3mm nozzle.
do you by any chance have the collapsible blade pieces in individual files? the 2 bigger pieces are stuck together and i don't want to have to print it all again just for those.
thanks,
I just realized i jumped the gun on this comment. I did not slice the blades after putting them in cura and looking at the preview. sorry about that. Awesome model!
The blade segments are in the file section as individual.
I cannot get the top layers to come up in the gcode. I’m using cura vase mode and it makes the tip of blade 1 hollow but makes a solid bottom layer
I had the same problem, changed the model a little to add a tip: https://social.thangs.com/m/119792
I'm trying to print one at 120% with a 0.6 nozzle in vase mode so the line with is 1.02 ?
Sounds about right, print two and try!
I have my wall thickness set to 0.85, but blade 4 slides right through. Any idea what else I should check? Bumped it up to 0.9 and same thing.
I changed the wall thickness in Cura.
Strange.... You changed line width, not nozzle width? I'm not sure what else to check.
I went up to 2.0 and it is as if there is no difference. Really not sure what I am doing wrong, when I do the saber blades they work just fine.
Yes, print two and try.
Thanks, I will try that tonight. If I bump it up, would I use that same value bump for the rest of the blades?
I would keep going up, it will eventually work .05 is a very small amount. I'm discovering that it changes a little depending on filament. The angle is so slight that a little bit makes a big difference.
Did you scale the pummel up at all? I kept it at 100 and it just doesn't quite screw on all the way.
i kept it at the original scale but i sanded down the pommel where it touches the hilt and that allowed it to screw on all the way
Did you ever get the scaling right? I'm having the same issue. Do you remember what you scaled it to?
Nope but if you need to it should work.
has anyone printed this in abs?
stuggling to get this right on a prusa mk3s at 97%, there is always one or 2 blades stuck when printed together.
YES! 🤘
Genius! Thank you! this worked for me. *Prusa mk3 using Cura Vase mode(Spiralized Contours) Line Width 0.65 Layer Height .3
Easy fix, try turning your line with up roughly .05mm, print two and give it a try. You want them to catch around 30-40mm. If they still don't catch, turn it up a little more until you get it right.
so it prints well in vase mode but the blades are to small to fit inside each other when I bring down to 97% scale. The outside blade has so much space inside that the next blade just falls through it. Guess i have to play with it some more.
Trying printing the blade individually in vase mode, its really the best way to go anyways.
Can you tell me what print speed you used? I am getting shifting on my print (appears to wobble) on the higher layers when printing in vase mode (cura - spirialize outer contour).
If it is of use to anyone, I had the same struggles on my Ender 3 S1. Besides printing very slowly (I print at 10mm/s) and assuming nothing mechanical is out of whack, enabling acceleration control in Cura and bringing that way down (100ms2) finally solved it for me.
@sergio511, I hope you get it figured out! 🤞
I found that my bed had a slight wobble to it. So I tightened the eccentrics and that helped a bit. I also used a brim while printing in vase mode. I’m going to try lowering the speed as well. This is my first larger print so I’ve been running into pitfall after pitfall but I’m determined to print it lol.
Are we talking about printing the blades in vase mode? You are having layer shifting on a vase mode print? That seems odd. I'm going slow, I think 40-50mm/min. Speed is controlled by cooling in this case. If I go faster it does not cool fast enough and cant support its own weight. I have good cooling, if you dont you will need to go slower. If you are having issues with bed adhesion, just add a brim. (I would not use brim if printing concentrically)
I tried lowering the print speed and adding a brim and I am also having the same problem you are experiencing at about 70% of the blades. Whether I print them individually with vase mode or concentrically with all the blades. I am using the ender 3 s1 and creality slicer.
how do i turn on the top layers for the first blade on cura spiralizing mode? i cant find the option and i dont want to leave the first blade open
Don't use Cura but, Don't you just set top layers to zero?
Great Design! I just have one question, when I am printing the blades out in vase mode, there are a bunch of lines interconnecting the blades. Do you know why this is happening? Do I have something wrong with my settings?
Edit: I am using an Ender 3 printer with Cura as my slicing software.
Yes, thank you so much! My surface mode was on normal when it needed to be on surface lol.
That sounds like its not spiralizing. Are you sure you have vase mode selected and are using a single vase mode blade file.
Fantastic design. I have just one question. I printed the entire thing, finished the hilt last night. I printed all of the blade pieces at .8mm, with everything at 100%. Blade 5 gives a little resistance to the hilt, but it still slips out. Should I upsize the final one slightly, or am I missing something?
Edit: For anyone in the future that has the same problem, I scaled part 5 to 100.5% for both the x and y axes. Works like a charm.
Strange... Scaling the last blade should work. You may have to increase your wall thickness slightly to make up for the scaling the ID? Another option would be to increase your extrusion multiplier slightly, but that would change the ID and OD.
Printed blades 1 and 2, but 1 will not slide into 2 all the way. What should the overall wall thickness be? line width is at .42 and wall line width at .85, do I print with only one wall?
Did you print in vase mode with a .85 wall thickness? If so, their too tight you could try turning down the wall thickness slightly.
Wanted to print the blade all in one, but when slicing it looks like it's 2 walls with a gap between them for each blade. Do I need 100% infill or something here?
What is your line width? Typically its suggested to go slightly larger then your nozzle. The blades have .85mm walls but if .43 LW's dont work, .44 or .45 should.
im having the same issue did you find a solution?
Ignore my question - Obviously for the first blade you need the top layer or your sword will have an opening at the end, but all subsequent you want them open top and bottom so the others slide through. This thing is a masterpiece. Thank you.
Sorry. Noob. What do you mean by turn top and bottom layers off when printing in vase mode?
Hey :)
Can you help me with the infill settings? How much would you suggest and what type of infill is recommended?
I have not broke a hilt yet so I'm not sure where its weak point would be, I think the blades would break first. It's pretty light duty for aesthetics, some walls are thin so no point in wasting filament where there is more material. I don't think the type of infill has as much impact as wall thickness. I would probably print the first one 2 wall, 15%. If there are issues, it breaks, or I wanted a second one I might make it heavier, 3 walls, 25% infill.
how to convert to gcode am using an ender 3 and require help
Slicer? Pursa Slicer, Cura, ext...
Thanks for the stls. Can you tell me, what i must say in cura to print it in vase mode with a 0.4 nozzle that it fits to 100% scale? Blade 4 fall through blade 5. I use to print a anycubic Vyper with the 0.4 nozzle
I'm not too familiar with Cura. If the blades are not interlocking normally you can bump up your extrusion multiplier a few percent to fix that.
Hi trying to print but i am using a 0.5 nozzle. Just wondering what size to scale up to. Also what layer height and width.
If your .5mm nozzle doesn't have a issue with printing the hilt, you can print at 100% scale. If you print the blades in vase mode.
If 100% scale doesn't work, .5mm is 1.25x's .4mm so scale it by 1.25x's and use use .25 layer heights. .55mm line width unless in vase mode then 1.06mm.
Just Printed this on my Prusa MK3S+. I did .30mm layers for the handle end cap. The Blade I did Print in place on .20mm stock Prusa slicer settings and it printed perfectly. No fusing issues. My only issue is in the end cap of the handle. It screws about 95% in. I am wondering if the .30mm layer height is making the threads thicker and causing this? Do you think re printing the handle and and cap in .20mm would help? Hope that makes sense.
Ha! Awesome!
I cut exactly .2mm up from the bottom of the cap and re printed at same layer height and it fits like a glove. Thank you for this advice!
Yes, I think this could be it. There is a interference fit so when it tight, its lined up. With different layer heights it must have changed the amount of interference. Personally, I would try the cap at the same layer height but sink it slightly into the bed maybe .2mm so the bottom doesn't print. That distance is a guess...
Thank you so much just one last question, in the description it says to set the line width to .85, but with a .4 nozzle the slicing software says it's not recommended, would .8 work fine?
It should be fine, I would be concerned that .8 would let the blades pass thru each other.
Hi I'm new to 3d printing and don't really understand why the stl's are solid, will they be solid in the print or come out hollow?
If you are talking about the blades, when you select vase mode in your slicer it will only do a outer perimeter as a spiral.
What slicer allows for both top and bottom layers in vase mode? I can only turn on the bottom layer in the slicers I use.
PrusaSlicer, vase mode gets disabled when adding a top layer. I was able to print it in vase mode by starting at the tip without a top layer. It held to my bed without a brim.
I am still working on some settings to get the blade overlap near 35mm.
I'm pretty sure they all do, you just have to find the option. What slicer are you using?
Thank you for this masterpiece. I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3S+ here. The PrusaSlicer tells me the model (BASE) is too high. When I scale it down, I'll get some holes at the sides. Do you know how I can best solve the problem?
Is you line width set around .45mm?
Nice model. Im printing at 70.5% with line width 0.6 but the top two parts still overlap like 50mm on the inside (vase mode). I calculated that 70.5% should be 0.6 in line with but maybe i have to increase the size to 71-72%? I measured the walls and they are almost exactly 0.6 in width.
By overlap do you mean that the blades catch by 50mm? That's not to far off, I think I aimed for 35mm. The more they overlap the stronger they are. Personally I would try reducing your extrusion multiplier by around 3-5%, if you want it closer to 35mm.
I am unable to print in vase mode due to a couple problems so I'm trying to print the blades in concentrically. They print fine but will only extend a small amount from each other (total of maybe 10cm). I have line width at 0.42 and am using a 0.4mm nozzle. What can I do to make these blades thinner? Thanks
You cant change you line width? (sorry for the late reply.)
No matter what I do I cant get the thickness of my blades under 0.8mm thick. I feel like I have tried everything including decreasing the flow to 80%
I would measure the thickness of the blade walls and compare that to .42mm. Make sure you measure the top of the blade, not the surface printed on the bed. If its not .42, calibrate your extruder.
Reducing your flow rate can otherwise help or some slicers have horizontal size compensation.
vase mode is referred to as “Spiralize Outer Contour” in Cura
That sounds correct!
How do I add the top and the bottom on vase mode? I am using Cura
Hi, I encountered this same problem using Cura when trying to slice blade 1. I recently tried to slice blade 1 without the vase mode on, wall count set to 1, infill set to 0%, and turning on 'enable ironing' settings, and eventually it worked. Haven't printed it out yet though, hope it helps!
Sorry I'm not a cura user, you cant simply type in the amount of top and bottom layers you want?
I have the same problem
hi! i need some help. why are the separate blades filled in?
Its so when you select "Vase mode" in your slicer it knows not to try to build a inner perimeter. If they were hollow, it would not work properly.