Just got a question about the cap for the hilt. what settings or infill do you run on the cap. it printed great but your spring mechanism wants to stay pulled in. so the blades end up popping it off when I retract them into the handle. great print otherwise! everything printed amazing.
I turned on top layers. However, the tip isn't filled in when using vase mode. I set Top/Bottom Thickness to .8, Top Thickness to .8, Top Layers to 4 and made sure Bottom Thickness and Bottom Layers are zero. This might be due to Vase mode not allowing you to fill in the top of your print. I'm wondering why it won't fill in the top (tip of the katana blade in this case).
Printing pointed blade (1) in vase mode leaves the top open, not closed even though Top/Bottom thickness is .8, Top Thickness .8, Top Layers 4 and Bottom Thickness/Layers is zero.
Its just a numerical valve that you change. It could be called extrusion width in PS, not for sure. If using standard settings for a .4mm nozzle the default is probably .45mm.
Hey brutha, love the swords. So I think Im getting close. I can get them strong and silky smooth in vase mode, but I still cant get them to slide together, they just slide through. When you say increase your line width, is that the same as saying nozel size? So in cura, line width is suppose to reflect your nozel size. It can be manually increased, but Im not sure how it can increase the line width without a bigger nozel.
Ok I nailed it and got the settings for you CURA peeps.
Whatever your best print settings are start there.
FOR THE BLADES:
Then, search for spiralize in the search, there will be two settings, check both.
Then, under quality, there is a line width setting. Check that.
This is where the calibration begins.
Set it to .9 to start.
Print blades 5 and 4.
If they fit, YOU WIN, too tight go to .8 to thin, increase it.
Thats it.
Mine worked perfect with these settings and .9 line width.
In vase mode or spiralize mode, things like wipe and seam hide and things that 3dprintworld has suggested before are basically disabled. They are there, but they dont function in spiralize mode.
Try it and see.
Again, this is for CURA users. Cant help on other users.
Nope, nozzle diameter and line width are different. Keep the .4mm nozzle but change the line with, if printing in vase mode. You can print larger than your nozzle, I forget how much. I think 2.5x's.
I have been working on putting more detailed print instructions on my web site.
What slicer do you use? Because I can not figure out how to turn layers to 0 in Cura. People in the videos I watch use Cura or Fusion 360 and fusion 360 cost money so I use Cura. I'm very new to this I have only had my Ender 3 V2 for less than 2 weeks and it is my first 3D Printer. Also sometimes when I print things they fall over or move how can I prevent that? Also sometimes I have to like start my print 5 times until it gets the first layer correct and then it does it from there on out, did I do something wrong?
Thanks!
You can also try Prusa Slicer for free. You probably cant find the setting in cura to set the layers to zero because you have to make that option visible.
For bed adhesion, I would need to know what kind of bed surface you are using. If your bed is level and at the correct height, it should print correctly the first time. This is kind of a hard print. I would suggest printing some simple parts and circling back to this once you get more experience.
Last comment said how do I assemble it with both sides closed. How would I turn off top and bottom layers in Cura?
Thanks, 3dprintingworld! Love your vids!
Same with me. Everything is great on all 5 vase mode prints except blade 1 with the flat point doesn't fill in on vase mode. How do I get this to close? I have top layers on, but it doesn't work.
complete waste of time and materials. I have an Ender 5 pro and this this will not print correctly. I have tired print in place which failed because of the fusing of the seams. I have tired random seams as well and it just fused. I finally tried printing it out individually but the same issue. I will try the blades one more time in vase mode in Cura. After that im giving up.
This is why I recommend the test print first. This will allow you to tune the layer seam in and also give you an idea if the actual print will be successful. I do not thing changing the seam orientation is the solution.
I printed all the blades in vase mode. And they all lock together well. But they slip through the handle. What should I change on the handle in cura to make it catch blade 5? I printed the blades with 1.1 mm line width at 90% extrusion flow. I printed the handle with normal settings.
Sorry, I was going to respond to this last night but got distracted.... I would recommend the same thing. Glad you got it to work, sorry you had to reprint.
Reducing the handle x and y size to 98.5 percent seemed to work. Not sure exactly what number is best to scale to. My guess works so I'm happy. Thanks for making cool models to print for free.
looked great after printing, first time trying to opening it. SNAP! what a bummer it looked so good. i must have some setting wrong or maybe it was just the PLA used. thanks for the great models
Hey i use cura and and ender 3 pro can someone make a video on how to remove the solid top and/or Pre slicedm for the ender 3. (im kinda new to 3d printing so i dont understand the current tutorals)
I just gotta say: "This is the coolest thing since sliced bread!" man =-0 I decided to try and print just the hilt 1st in 100% infill TPU. The hilt has been doing great so far @ 20% (halfway up the first diamond on the grip). Then, I'd like to have PTEG for the base clasp and blade. It might be a good idea to wrap the PETG in a TPU outer shell for durability (you know, kind of the opposite of a katana's make; where it's soft on the inside and hard at the cutting edge, just for reference, lol). Super cool make man!!! I'm really excited to get one of these to print =-D I have no idea how to scale things to make my previously mentioned method work, but I'll update if it actually gets completed /thumbs up
:Update: I almost had to stop the print... Wipe is definitely not a good thing for TPU! Little boogers all over the place. It's at 3 hours = 20% of the print, and I am not looking forward to the clean up /sigh.
I tried TPU for the blade but it had issues supporting its self and never got very far with it. You have to try to run things cool, slow, with lots of cooling.
Ok so i have a question, when i print the handle/ hilt or heilt as its called, the handle part about hand gaurd/ the thing at the end starts to print its disconects from everything and starts stringing and gets all crazy so i have to cancel it, I have printed it 5 times with all the setting correct, and ive tried everything to fix it. Any idea whats happening? If you dont understand what im talking about i can link a picture of it to a comment
i dont know what to do i am making the blades and turn out like skinny cups like what do i do so i can see through them so i can put them all together i am using cura. i am new to 3d printing
Are you saying that the segments have a top and bottom? if so, You have to turn the top and bottom layers off all the blade segments except the #1, where you need only top layers. I'll have to make a note of this in the description.
I had to put a screwdriver through the back to get all of the layers of the blade to come out. I assume this is user error, is there any easier way? I was also not able to take of the top cap. help?
Did you print the assembly model? That is for reference only, this version is designed to be assembled. If you want to print it all at once you need the print-in-place version. In regards to your printing issues, see the test print mentioned above.
Discussions — Collapsing Katana with Removable Blade
For anyone having issues using vase mode with the top layer or the BLADE 1, just flip it over.
Good advice!
Just got a question about the cap for the hilt. what settings or infill do you run on the cap. it printed great but your spring mechanism wants to stay pulled in. so the blades end up popping it off when I retract them into the handle. great print otherwise! everything printed amazing.
Hey man, i'm using cura but i don't want to reprint the whole blade. None of the blades are hollow though? How do i enable vase mode on cura?
If its not called "Vase mode" then its "spiralize Outer Contours" I'm have not used it in a looooong time.
hi i dont know how to remove the first layers i use snapmaker luban not cura can you help me out?
Can you not set them to zero?
I turned on top layers. However, the tip isn't filled in when using vase mode. I set Top/Bottom Thickness to .8, Top Thickness to .8, Top Layers to 4 and made sure Bottom Thickness and Bottom Layers are zero. This might be due to Vase mode not allowing you to fill in the top of your print. I'm wondering why it won't fill in the top (tip of the katana blade in this case).
I dont know the answer to this, but you could just flip it over and use a brim.
Printing pointed blade (1) in vase mode leaves the top open, not closed even though Top/Bottom thickness is .8, Top Thickness .8, Top Layers 4 and Bottom Thickness/Layers is zero.
I'm not sure I understand the question. Don't you want top layers then?
How do I change the line width in Prusa Slicer in vase mode?
Its just a numerical valve that you change. It could be called extrusion width in PS, not for sure. If using standard settings for a .4mm nozzle the default is probably .45mm.
Hey brutha, love the swords. So I think Im getting close. I can get them strong and silky smooth in vase mode, but I still cant get them to slide together, they just slide through. When you say increase your line width, is that the same as saying nozel size? So in cura, line width is suppose to reflect your nozel size. It can be manually increased, but Im not sure how it can increase the line width without a bigger nozel.
Ok I nailed it and got the settings for you CURA peeps.
Whatever your best print settings are start there. FOR THE BLADES: Then, search for spiralize in the search, there will be two settings, check both. Then, under quality, there is a line width setting. Check that.
This is where the calibration begins. Set it to .9 to start. Print blades 5 and 4. If they fit, YOU WIN, too tight go to .8 to thin, increase it. Thats it. Mine worked perfect with these settings and .9 line width. In vase mode or spiralize mode, things like wipe and seam hide and things that 3dprintworld has suggested before are basically disabled. They are there, but they dont function in spiralize mode. Try it and see. Again, this is for CURA users. Cant help on other users.
Ill take a look at it. I know you use something other than Cura so I just need to remind myself where the line width is. Thanks Ill update later.
Nope, nozzle diameter and line width are different. Keep the .4mm nozzle but change the line with, if printing in vase mode. You can print larger than your nozzle, I forget how much. I think 2.5x's.
I have been working on putting more detailed print instructions on my web site.
My Blade broke, the reprintable blades all are not hollow... Don't want to reprint the whole blade :(
They are not hollow because they are meant to be printed in vase mode. Its the superior way of printing one at a time.
What slicer do you use? Because I can not figure out how to turn layers to 0 in Cura. People in the videos I watch use Cura or Fusion 360 and fusion 360 cost money so I use Cura. I'm very new to this I have only had my Ender 3 V2 for less than 2 weeks and it is my first 3D Printer. Also sometimes when I print things they fall over or move how can I prevent that? Also sometimes I have to like start my print 5 times until it gets the first layer correct and then it does it from there on out, did I do something wrong? Thanks!
You can also try Prusa Slicer for free. You probably cant find the setting in cura to set the layers to zero because you have to make that option visible. For bed adhesion, I would need to know what kind of bed surface you are using. If your bed is level and at the correct height, it should print correctly the first time. This is kind of a hard print. I would suggest printing some simple parts and circling back to this once you get more experience.
Last comment said how do I assemble it with both sides closed. How would I turn off top and bottom layers in Cura? Thanks, 3dprintingworld! Love your vids!
I have not used Cura in a long time but I think you just set the number of layers to zero.
How do I assemble it, if the blade is closed on both sides?
It should not be closed, turn off top and bottom layers.
For me when I assemble the blades and try to extend it , they all just fall out. what should I do?
Sorry I misses these messages because thangs does not have a good way of notifying comments...
Increase your extrusion width until you get the right fit.
What line width should I use for the hilt so the blades don't slip out if I printed the blades in vase mode at 0.9mm line width? (Mk3s+/Prusaslicer)
Sorry I misses these messages because thangs does not have a good way of notifying comments...
That worked for me but if they don't catch you can increase this width until you get the right fit.
I have the top layers on but in the preview on Cura there are no top layers on the end of the blade. Printing individually in vase mode.
Same with me. Everything is great on all 5 vase mode prints except blade 1 with the flat point doesn't fill in on vase mode. How do I get this to close? I have top layers on, but it doesn't work.
complete waste of time and materials. I have an Ender 5 pro and this this will not print correctly. I have tired print in place which failed because of the fusing of the seams. I have tired random seams as well and it just fused. I finally tried printing it out individually but the same issue. I will try the blades one more time in vase mode in Cura. After that im giving up.
This is why I recommend the test print first. This will allow you to tune the layer seam in and also give you an idea if the actual print will be successful. I do not thing changing the seam orientation is the solution.
I printed all the blades in vase mode. And they all lock together well. But they slip through the handle. What should I change on the handle in cura to make it catch blade 5? I printed the blades with 1.1 mm line width at 90% extrusion flow. I printed the handle with normal settings.
Sorry, I was going to respond to this last night but got distracted.... I would recommend the same thing. Glad you got it to work, sorry you had to reprint.
Reducing the handle x and y size to 98.5 percent seemed to work. Not sure exactly what number is best to scale to. My guess works so I'm happy. Thanks for making cool models to print for free.
looked great after printing, first time trying to opening it. SNAP! what a bummer it looked so good. i must have some setting wrong or maybe it was just the PLA used. thanks for the great models
They are not super durable but they shouldn't break just from opening. I get best results in vase mode.
Can anyone tell me roughly how much it weighs in grams
Hey i use cura and and ender 3 pro can someone make a video on how to remove the solid top and/or Pre slicedm for the ender 3. (im kinda new to 3d printing so i dont understand the current tutorals)
If you know anywhere with i guess "Pre-Cut pieces " That would be much appreciated
Ive done some exploring in cura settings n' such and have found no layer remover
I would guess that you just set top and bottom layers to zero.
I just gotta say: "This is the coolest thing since sliced bread!" man =-0 I decided to try and print just the hilt 1st in 100% infill TPU. The hilt has been doing great so far @ 20% (halfway up the first diamond on the grip). Then, I'd like to have PTEG for the base clasp and blade. It might be a good idea to wrap the PETG in a TPU outer shell for durability (you know, kind of the opposite of a katana's make; where it's soft on the inside and hard at the cutting edge, just for reference, lol). Super cool make man!!! I'm really excited to get one of these to print =-D I have no idea how to scale things to make my previously mentioned method work, but I'll update if it actually gets completed /thumbs up
:Update: I almost had to stop the print... Wipe is definitely not a good thing for TPU! Little boogers all over the place. It's at 3 hours = 20% of the print, and I am not looking forward to the clean up /sigh.
I tried TPU for the blade but it had issues supporting its self and never got very far with it. You have to try to run things cool, slow, with lots of cooling.
Ok so i have a question, when i print the handle/ hilt or heilt as its called, the handle part about hand gaurd/ the thing at the end starts to print its disconects from everything and starts stringing and gets all crazy so i have to cancel it, I have printed it 5 times with all the setting correct, and ive tried everything to fix it. Any idea whats happening? If you dont understand what im talking about i can link a picture of it to a comment
it is because it is being printed in vase mode
I have the same problem, tested at different sizes and with different filament
when i printed the blades seperatley they had ends on them and i cant put the blades togather any idea on what to do
You have to turn the top and bottom layers off all the blade segments except the #1, where you need only top layers.
i dont know what to do i am making the blades and turn out like skinny cups like what do i do so i can see through them so i can put them all together i am using cura. i am new to 3d printing
Are you saying that the segments have a top and bottom? if so, You have to turn the top and bottom layers off all the blade segments except the #1, where you need only top layers. I'll have to make a note of this in the description.
I had to put a screwdriver through the back to get all of the layers of the blade to come out. I assume this is user error, is there any easier way? I was also not able to take of the top cap. help?
Did you print the assembly model? That is for reference only, this version is designed to be assembled. If you want to print it all at once you need the print-in-place version. In regards to your printing issues, see the test print mentioned above.