This human skull model can be used for learning anatomy or just freaking out your friends. See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/dm0RT-1eFFc
To assemble with magnets, you will need:
•	66 of 1/8” x 1/16” cylindrical
•	36 of 1/4” x 1/8” cylindrical
www.kjmagnetics.com is a good source of magnets.
Files are provided in anatomical orientation. You will need to reorient and prepare them according to your preferences, equipment, and skill level. Here are some considerations:
•	Orient outer surfaces upwards so that the surfaces in contact with support structures are less visible in the final model.
•	As much as possible, avoid orienting the magnetic anchors downwards. There are some situations in which this is unavoidable. These can be cleaned up post-print.
Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/8” or 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connection of bones.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place. CA glue works well.
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	The nasal bones, lacrimal bones and upper teeth are fused to ipsilateral maxilla. Lower teeth are fused to the mandible. They are too small and thin to print and assemble on their own.
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors.
•	Gaps have been created or expended between fused joints to allow these bones to be separated.
•	The perpendicular plate of the ethmoid bone has been removed. It is too thin and there is limited space for it to fit properly.
•	Bones of the inner ear are not included.
•	This model includes only bony structures.
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically-Correct 18-Piece Magnetic Human Skull Model

Full Skull Display model.stl

This anatomically correct human hand model uses 2.85mm filament to attach and hold the bones together. The filament allows for some movement between bones, however excessive pressure or repeated movements may weaken and break the filament. This model is designed for displaying, studying or light use, but will not stand up to rough classroom handling.
See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/MDwHPybFZGk
This is an advanced project to print and assemble. Some anatomy knowledge is helpful but not necessary. Regardless, you will be an expert by the time you are done!
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy with the following exceptions. The pisiform bone has been fused on to the triquetrum and some ends of the distal and middle phalanges have been slightly enlarged to allow insertion of the filament.
Printing Instructions
A file of the complete hand model is included for reference only. 
Carpal Bones: Raise these off the print bed around 3mm and add some sort of support. “Tree” supports in Cura works well. IMPORTANT: Print the “Hamate-Capitate-Trapezoid-Lunate Cluster” as is! They are in anatomical position and separating them will make it nearly impossible to assemble the carpal bones. Do not separate or reposition these bones for printing and leave the support structure on until all the carpal bones have been connected. 
Metacarpals and Phalanges: The metacarpals and phalanges are positioned from left to right: fifth digit, forth digit, third digit, second digit and thumb. Keep track of these as you print them! It might be helpful to leave the support structure on until right before use. Labelling them might be helpful too.
Stand vs full length bones: The radius and ulna have been split forming distal and proximal sections. The hand bones above attach to the distal portions of the radius and ulna. The stand supports the cut ends of the distal portions of the radius and ulna to hold the hand in an upright display position. Alternately, you can print and attach the proximal portions of the radius and ulna to have the complete bones.
Assembly Instructions
You can follow along on this video here: https://youtu.be/MDwHPybFZGk 
See above for a picture of the pathways of connecting filament through the carpal bones. You will need to use a very strong glue; CA glue works well. Always to dry fits before gluing and be sure to trim the filament to the proper length before the final glue. Allow time for glue to dry between each step.
1.	Thread a first length of filament through the distal tunnel of the “Hamate-Capitate-Trapezoid-Lunate Cluster.” Thread a second filament through the lunate. You may find it helpful to pre-shape the filament prior to inserting, and to pre-shape the ends that will insert into the triquetrum.
2.	Apply glue to the holes in the triquetrum and secure on to the ends of the two filaments.
3.	Dry fit the scaphoid on to the second filament emerging from the lunate and ensure that the filament length allows it to sit close enough to the lunate that the filament going through the scaphoid will meet up with the hole in the capitate.  Apply glue to the hole in the scaphoid and capitate. Secure the scaphoid to the lunate and insert a third filament through the scaphoid into the capitate.
4.	Dry fit the trapezium on to the end of the first filament emerging from the trapezoid and ensure that the trapezium sits close enough to the trapezoid so that the filament running through the trapezium will meet up with the hole in the scaphoid. Secure in place with glue. You can now remove the support material.
5.	Thread a section of filament through the proximal ends of metacarpals 2, 3, 4 and 5. Cut to length.
6.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the metacarpals to the carpals.
7.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the proximal phalanges to the metacarpals.
8.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the middle phalanges to the proximal phalanges. Remember, the thumb does not have a middle phalange.
9.	Using 5mm lengths of filament, attach the 2, 3, 4, and 5th distal phalanges to the middle phalanges. Use a 10mm length to attach the 1st distal phalange.
10.	Attach the distal radius to the distal ulna with a 25mm section of filament. The easiest way to get the spacing correct is to place the bones in the stand.
11.	Attach the lunate and scaphoid to the ulna and radius. If you want to use the stand, you do not need to print the proximal sections of the radius and ulna. You are finished!
12.	If you want the full radius and ulna, attach the proximal radius and ulna together with a 25mm section of filament and glue them on to the distal radius and ulna. You are finished!
By now you should be able to get advanced standing in a university-level anatomy class! I hope you enjoy this model and can post pictures of your finished project!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically Correct Human Hand Model

Reference Full Hand.stl

This three-quarter size spine model is assembled using 2.85mm filament, allowing the vertebrae to flex and rotate. An optional display stand is available. See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/PJFxQbMtud0
This model is designed for display purposes. While the filament allows for some movement, the movement is not biomechanically accurate. See here for a more challenging but biomechanically accurate full size spine model: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/60245 
With the exception of C1 and C2, vertebrae are numbered on the posterior aspect of the vertebral body. The numbers are to assist with assembly and are hidden in the final assembled model. There was only space for numbers, so you’ll have to learn what C1 and C2 look like and be able to differentiate between cervical, thoracic and lumbar vertebrae. (It’s not that hard!)
Every effort has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy; however some small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for printing. In particular, the bone around the transverse foramen in the cervical spine, and the articular processes and lamina of the cervical and upper thoracic vertebrae have been thickened. 
Holes have been added for the insertion of filament, and small nubs have been added to the inferior surface of the vertebral body to ensure proper spacing.
The modifications are not noticeable for display purposes, just don’t use this model to plan your next spinal reconstruction surgery.
Printing: 
This is an intermediate project that requires good skills in setting up supports and in post-print cleaning and preparation.
The vertebrae in the files are oriented on an angle to minimize supports needed, specifically for the spinous processes. I recommend raising the objects off the print bed 3-5mm and then building supports up to them.
DO NOT PRINT “Full Spine Display Only”!
You will need to print out one of each “C1 – C7,” “T1 – T6,” “T7 – T12” and “L1-L4.”
Decide whether you need a display stand.
If you do not need a stand, use “L5 Plain” to complete the lumbar spine section. If you need a stand, use “L5 Base Connector” and print out the “Pelvic Base” as well.
Assembly:
Once all the pieces are printed and cleaned, you will need the following lengths of filament: Five 12cm lengths for the cervical and lumber sections, and six 15 cm lengths for the thoracic sections. These lengths are slightly longer than needed for ease of assembly and will need to be trimmed prior to gluing the final pieces in place. CA glue works well.
Here is the assembly sequence shown in the video.
For the cervical spine (C1-C7), insert two lengths of filament into C7 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue C1 in place.
For the upper thoracic spine (T1-T6), insert three lengths of filament into T6 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue T1 in place.
For the lower thoracic spine (T7-T12), insert three lengths of filament into T12 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue T7 in place.
For the lumbar spine (L1-L5), insert three lengths of filament into TL4 and thread on L3 and L2. Glue L1 in place, and then glue on your selected version of L5.
Trim the filament protruding from each section (being careful not to over-trim), then glue the sections together. You’re done!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Flexible Spine Model with Display Stand

Full Spine Display Only.stl

This full-sized, anatomically-correct 6-piece female pelvis model includes the sacrum, 5th lumbar vertebrae, left and right hemipelvis, and proximal portions of the left and right femur. An optional stand base is also provided. 
See here for video: https://youtu.be/djYy23eG_EU
To assemble you will need 16 1/4” x 1/8” strong cylindrical neodymium magnets. To use the display base, you will also need an 8” section of ¼” square keystock.
Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connection of bones.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place. CA glue works well.
Except for the sacrum, all bones are oriented in reasonable positions for printing.
The sacrum is a very difficult bone to print no matter how it is oriented, so you will need to position this according to your experience, preferences, and set-up. The bone pictured in the model was printed upside down, with ample support at the bottom.
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors.
•	Thin parts of the medial sacral crest have been thickened or removed to improve printing strength and quality.
•	With the exception of a few centimeters at the top and bottom, the spinal canal and the complex tunnels of the cauda equina have been filled in to allow for better printing strength and quality. 
Development of this model was initiated and guided by Health Allies, a small regional Osteopathy clinic in Orange NSW, Australia with 4 practicing Osteopaths from various Universities across Australia. The model will be used for visual learning purposes, from patient education in the clinic, to assisting with continuing learning with other medical professionals.

Resources: https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3DPX-015843 


6-Piece Magnetic Female Pelvis Model

Do Not Print.stl

This anatomically correct human foot model uses 2.85mm filament to attach and hold the bones together. The filament allows for some movement between bones, however excessive pressure or repeated movements may weaken and break the filament. This model is designed for displaying, studying or light use, but will not stand up to rough classroom handling.
See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/Qn_jcQ9kIfc 
This is an advanced project to print and assemble. Some anatomy knowledge is helpful but not necessary. Regardless, you will be an expert by the time you are done!
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy with the following exceptions. The sesamoid bones have been fused to the first metatarsal, and the proximal bones have been fused together.  These bones are too small and fragile to be printed and articulated separately.
Printing Instructions
A file of the complete foot model is included for reference only. 
Raising the bones off the print bed around 3mm and adding support helps to maintain the contours. “Tree” supports in Cura works well. 
The metatarsal and phalanges are positioned from left to right: fifth (little) toe, forth toe, third toe, second toe and first (big) toe. Keep track of these as you print them! It might be helpful to leave the support structure on until right before use. Labelling them might be helpful too.
There are two versions of the calcaneus: a plain one and one with hole to attach to the optional stand. Print the one you want.
Assembly Instructions
You can follow along on this video here: https://youtu.be/Qn_jcQ9kIfc 
See above for a picture of the pathways of connecting filament through the tarsal bones. You will need to use a very strong glue; CA glue works well. Always to dry fits before gluing and be sure to trim the filament to the proper length before the final glue. Allow time for glue to dry between each step.
1.	Connect the calcaneus and tarsal bone with one 25mm and one 10mm segment of filament. Glue in place.
2.	Thread two long sections of filament through the navicular. Start with 80mm for the medial hole and 40mm for the lateral hole. Connect the two filaments to the tarsal bone and glue in place.
3.	Attach an 80mm filament to the lateral aspect of the medial cuneiform.
4.	Thread the middle and lateral cuneiforms on to the medial cuneiform and attach the three cuneiforms on to the navicular.
5.	Attache cuboid on to the lateral cuneiform and thread a 60mm filament through the cuboid into the calcaneus.
6.	Insert 10mm segments of filament into the remaining holes of the cuneiforms and cuboid.
7.	Thread an 80mm segment of filament through the proximal ends of the second, third and fourth metatarsals.
8.	Attach the second, third and fourth metatarsals on to the cuneiforms and cuboid.
9.	Attach the first metatarsal.
10.	Attach the fifth metatarsal.
11.	Attached the phalanges.
1.	Attach the tibia and fibula together to the talus with 4 segments of 25mm filament. Ensure that the tops are level and properly positioned. You are finished!
By now you should be able to get advanced standing in a university-level anatomy class! I hope you enjoy this model and can post pictures of your finished project!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically Correct Human Foot Model

Full Foot.stl

This dynamic shoulder rotator cuff model is designed specifically to simulate shoulder dislocations and treatments but it can be used for a range of clinical education applications.

See here for video: https://youtu.be/GVXmNw9ABjo

In this model, the humerus is held in place by a series of elastic cords that simulate the pull of rotator cuff muscles and ligaments. Tension on the elastics can be adjusted to simulate variability in rotator cuff integrity and support around the glenohumeral joint.

The six anchor points between the scapular assembly and head of humerus represent the major components of the rotator cuff (subscapularis, infraspinatus, supraspinatus, teres minor, and approximations of the anterior and posterior glenohumeral ligaments)

Assembly requires six M6 barrel adjustors and approximately 1m of elastic cord or strap. Additionally, you may choose to use crimps to secure the ends of the elastic.

The M6 barrel adjustors are commonly used in bicycles to adjust cable tension of gear derailleurs. They can be purchased from a bike store or online.

This model shown uses two types of elastic, 1/4” (6mm) wide elastic band, and 1/8” (3mm) diameter elastic cord. While both will work fine, the cord is easier to work with during assembly.

Print the head and shaft of humerus as oriented. Print the scapular assembly as oriented but raise it above the surface of the bed approximately 3mm and build supports up to bottom surfaces and overhangs. It is important that the glenoid surface is oriented upwards so that it prints cleanly.

To assemble, begin by passing the first elastic through a small hole in the head of the humerus. Pull it out the large bottom hole and crimp or tie a knot so that the end does not pass back out through the hole. Next, thread the other end of the elastic through the appropriate hole in the scapular assembly and then through a barrel adjuster. Determine what length of elastic achieves the desirable amount of tension and trim the elastic to the appropriate length. Tie or crimp the end of the elastic so that it sits inside the end of the barrel adjuster. Repeat with each elastic. 

Once the elastics are in place, insert the shaft of the humerus into the bottom of the head of the humerus. The fit is intentionally tight, so you may have to gently file off the contact surfaces until you are able to insert it in securely.

This model was done in collaboration with Richmond Rescue in Vermont, USA, for use in their training programs. It is intended to support free and accessible open-source learning.

Reference files from:  "BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".



Dynamic Shoulder Rotator Cuff Education Model

This 16-piece, full-sized anatomical model shows the position of the brachial plexus nerves relative to surrounding bones, muscles, and arteries. See here for video: https://youtu.be/Uol33HA0QOc 

The brachial plexus is a network of nerves in the shoulder that carries movement and sensory signals from the spinal cord to the arms and hands. This model is designed for use as a clinical education tool, specifically for ultrasound guided nerve blocks and anesthesia for surgery.

The model can be used upright or in supine. You can print either shoulder or both. Use different coloured filament to emphasis structures.

The “Brachial Plexus” includes all roots, trunks, divisions, cords and branches, as well as proximal portions of the suprascapular and long thoracic nerve. The phrenic nerve is included as well, not because it is a part of the brachial plexus, but because it is a structure to identify and avoid when doing nerve blocks or surgery in this area.

The main structural pieces are attached with magnets. To assemble both sides with magnets, you will need 36   1/4” x 1/8” (6mm x 3mm) cylindrical neodymium magnets. www.kjmagnetics.com is a good source of magnets. Pieces can be glued together for permanent attachment.

The roots of the brachial plexus and phrenic nerve are attached via insertion holes in the intervertebral foramen. The brachial plexus and subclavian/axillary artery are also held in place by the clavicle.

The following pieces form the structural base:

•	Spine Base 
•	Right and/or Left Scapula Rhomboid Base 
•	Sternum Rib Base 
•	Right and/or Left Clavicle

The follow pieces are non-structural. Print the pieces and sides that you need.:

•	Head of Humerus
•	Anterior Scalene
•	Brachial Plexus
•	Phrenic Nerve
•	Subclavian/Axillary Artery

This is an advanced print requiring knowledge in setting up supports and post-print cleanup.

The “Spine Base” and “Scapula Rhomboid Bases” should be printed as provided. The remaining files are in a “suggested orientation,” you may need to reorient and prepare them according to your preferences, equipment, and skill level. In general, try to orient outer surfaces upwards so that the surfaces in contact with support structures are less visible in the final model. 

For pieces with contoured bottom surfaces and hard-to-reach support areas, try raising the model a few millimeters off the build plate and using “tree supports.”

Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connections.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place, especially if using the smaller metric sizes. CA glue works well.
•	Expect to do some post-print cleanup with sandpaper and files.

Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	Magnet anchors have been added to allow insertion of magnets.
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors and add strength
•	A portion of the posterior spine of the scapula has been enlarged to support the model in supine.
•	All neural structures have been thickened for strength and to facilitate printing.
•	The brachial plexus has been reshaped in some areas to allow for ease of printing and assembly. These alterations are within the range of normal anatomical variation. 
•	Anterior scalene is positioned slightly anterior to create more space in the interscalene triangle.
•	Groves have been added on the first ribs to facilitate proper positioning of the subclavian artery.

This project was done in collaboration with Eric Kramer and colleagues.

Eric Kramer is a nurse anesthesiologist and nurse practitioner with an interest in point of care ultrasound and ultrasound guided regional anesthesia. He is faculty for Nat

16-Piece Full Size Brachial Plexus Model

Full Model - Display Only.stl

It’s not easy to fix a broken heart. Model displayed is printed in temperature sensitive colour changing filament.

See here for video: https://youtu.be/nYwyI-LPaII 
 
This puzzle is part of the family of different “6-Piece Burr Puzzle” configurations. This is a “Level 1” design because one piece needs to be moved (“unlocked”) before you can begin to disassemble the puzzle. Taking it apart is tricky, but putting it back together is much harder!

Can’t figure out how to fit the pieces fit together? 
See here for an instructional model: https://social.thangs.com/m/617380 
And here for an instructional video: https://youtu.be/UcFXx5P6eX4

Similar puzzles:
Ripple Ball Burr Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/617381
Valentine’s Heart Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/639563 


Anatomical Heart Puzzle

Display only do not post.stl

How does your spine stack up? These vertebral stacking blocks fit together to form a three-quarter size spine model. A weird Halloween Party game perhaps?

See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/z6MckyVLsLw 
 
This model is designed as an interactive way to learn basic spinal anatomy. If you are looking for a more robust display model, you might consider this design: https://social.thangs.com/m/60341.  If you are looking for a full-size model with more biomechanically accurate movement, you might consider this design: https://social.thangs.com/m/60245 

With the exception of C1 and C2, vertebrae are numbered on the posterior aspect of the vertebral body. The numbers are to assist with assembly and are hidden in the final assembled model. There was only space for numbers, so you’ll have to learn what C1 and C2 look like and be able to differentiate between cervical, thoracic and lumbar vertebrae. (It’s not that hard!)

Every effort has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy; however some small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for printing. In particular, the bone around the transverse foramen in the cervical spine, and the articular processes and lamina of the cervical and upper thoracic vertebrae have been thickened. 

Anatomically, the odontoid process of the C2 axis is held in place by the transverse ligament of the C1 atlas. In this model, the transverse ligament has been “ossified” leaving a hole for the odontoid process to click into place. This hole is intentionally tight to hold it in place. Expect to use a bit for force to snap them together, or file down the surfaces of the odontoid process as needed.

Male and female connectors have of course been added to each vertebral body.

Printing: 
This is an intermediate project that requires good skills in setting up supports and in post-print cleaning and preparation.

The vertebrae in the files are oriented upside-down to print on the flat surface of the male connector. You will need to set up supports for the rest of the vertebral body. Be especially careful when setting up supports for the downward-oriented superior facet joints. “Tree” supports in Cura work well.

Assembly:

There are some important considerations for post-print clean-up of this model. 

The fit between adjacent vertebra must be as tight as possible. Any movement between vertebra, especially the lower ones, will amplify up the spine and you will end up with an unstable spine with very poor posture!

When the pieces come of the print bed the first layer will be protruding out slightly, this is known as the “elephant’s foot.” If you try to connect the vertebra right off the print bed, this elephant’s foot will prevent the male piece from inserting. In order to achieve optimal fit, gradually file off the elephant’s foot while repeatedly attempting to connect the vertebra. As soon as you can forcefully insert the male piece, stop filing! The first few attempts to connect the vertebra should be very tight and difficult. After a few insertions, the surfaces will smooth out and you’ll be left with a nice tight connection.

Do not overdo the filing or you’ll be left with wiggly vertebrae!

Here are more of my anatomy designs you might enjoy:
Flexible Three-Quarter Spine Model with Display Stand: https://social.thangs.com/m/60341
Full Size Human Foot Model: https://social.thangs.com/m/60045 
Full Size Human Hand Model: https://social.thangs.com/m/60043 
Full Size 18-Piece Magnetic Human Skull Model: https://social.thangs.com/m/60036 
Full Sized Articulating Spine: https://social.thangs.com/m/60245
16-Piece Full Sized Brachial Plexus Model: https://social.thangs.com/m/47926 
6-Piece Magnetic Female Pelvis Model: https://social.thangs.com/m/60519 
Anatomically Correct Voronoi Heart: https://social.thangs.com/m/50472 
Pelvis Model with Adjustable Ball and Socket Joint: https://social.thangs.com/m/60546 
Novelty:
Happy Halloween Articulating Spine: https://social.thangs.com/m/27750 
Wearable Spine: https://social.thangs.com/m/27874
Custom Embossed Spine: https://social.thangs.com/m/32980 
Skull Jewelry Set: https://social.thangs.com/m/27766 
Vertebrae with Secret Compartment: https://social.thangs.com/m/363275 
Brain Teaser Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/333304 
Tooth Dish: https://social.thangs.com/m/396068
Fingerbone Windchime: https://social.thangs.com/m/391916
Skull Windchime: https://social.thangs.com/m/391327
Skull Bulb (solid): https://social.thangs.com/m/377786 
Skull Bulb (Voronoi): https://social.thangs.com/m/377785 
Teeth Saucer: https://social.thangs.com/m/377781
Teeth Cup: https://social.thangs.com/m/377780
Architected Skull (hexagonal honeycomb): https://social.thangs.com/m/365051
Architected Skull (gyroid): https://social.thangs.com/m/365047 
Architected Skull (FCC): https://social.thangs.com/m/365043
Skull Ketchup Cap: https://social.thangs.com/m/362347 


Vertebral Stacking Blocks

Stacking Vertebrae Display only do not print.stl

Let me see. Alas, poor Yorick! I cannot figure out how to reassemble him.

See here for video: https://youtu.be/tiF3k-c1-yY 

This puzzle is part of the family of different “6-Piece Burr Puzzle” configurations. This is a “Level 1” design because one piece needs to be moved (“unlocked”) before you can begin to disassemble the puzzle. Taking it apart is tricky, but putting it back together is much harder!

Can’t figure out how to fit the pieces fit together? 
See here for an instructional model: https://social.thangs.com/m/617380 
And here for an instructional video: https://youtu.be/UcFXx5P6eX4

Similar puzzles:
Ripple Ball Burr Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/617381
Valentine’s Heart Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/639563 
Anatomical Heart Puzzle: https://social.thangs.com/m/693398


Skull Puzzle

Skull Puzzle Piece 5.stl

These anatomically correct vertebrae use precisely positioned ball-and-socket joints to mimic joint kinematics. 
See here for video: https://youtu.be/2zp8qpz0Sl8 
See here for a smaller display version: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/60341
These are challenging files to print and require some post-print cleaning, but the finished product is worth it!
The files provided are oriented with the socket directly upwards to provide the cleanest print of the socket, which is critical for the joints to connect and move properly. Changing the orientation may result in a weak or malformed print of the socket.
I highly recommend labelling the vertebrae as you print them! Attaching incorrect vertebrae may damage the ball-and-socket joint.
While the ball-and-socket joints are sturdy once attached, they are not designed for repeated snapping in and out. 
You will need to select a support type that can support the large flat sections of the vertebral body, as well as the thinner sections of the laminae and spinous and transverse processes. In Cura, the “tree” option works well.
The spinous processes of the T1 to T9 thoracic vertebrae are very vertically oriented and become unstable and top-heavy when printing. They may not be adequately supported with standard supports. Secondary files are provided with enhanced support for the bases of the spinous processes. If you use these, you will still need to set up your preferred supports for the rest of the vertebrae.
Anatomically, the odontoid process of the C2 axis is held in place by the transverse ligament of the C1 atlas. In this model, the transverse ligament has been “ossified” leaving a hole for the odontoid process to click into place. This hole is intentionally tight to hold it in place. Expect to use a bit for force to snap them together, or file down the surfaces of the odontoid process as needed.
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".

Full-sized Anatomically Correct Articulating Spine

Lumber Vertebrae Display.stl

This display model of the right hemipelvis and femur uses an adjustable ball and socket joint to allow for movement and repositioning of the femoral head in the acetabulum. The model could be used to demonstrate hip replacement prosthesis, or just as an interesting conversation piece!
See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/LXJVoEX21ZA 
The model is supported on the stand using a 6” long section of ¼” square keystock. The keystock inserts through the ischial tuberosity and is held in place with an anchor inside the pelvis. The anchor is designed as a separate shell and so could be removed digitally before printing if not needed.
Printing: 
Print the “Acetabular Cup” and “Collar” as provided so that the threads are oriented upwards. Changing the orientation may result in malformed threads. The “Femoral Head” and “Proximal Femur” should also be oriented as provided to ensure that the connecting surfaces print properly with the correct tolerance.
The “Right Hemipelvis” is oriented to minimize amount of support needed, but you might find an orientation that works better for your setup.
The “Right Hemipelvis” and “Proximal Femur” will need supports.
The “Stand” is a standard print.
Assembly:
If using the stand, ensure that the keystock inserts cleanly through the hole in the ischial tuberosity and is properly seated in the inner anchor. Clean up right surfaces as needed.
Glue the “Acetabular Cup” into the large hole in the “Right Hemipelvis”. Ensure that it is seated securely and evenly. CA glue works well.
Thread the “Collar” over the “Femoral Head” and insert the “Femoral Head” into the “Proximal Femur.” That tolerance is tight enough here that it will hold on its own, but you can add a bit of glue for a permanent connection.
Insert the “Femoral Head” into the “Acetabular Cup” and tighten the “Collar” into place. The collar can be loosened and retightened to move and hold the femur in different positions.
If using the stand, insert the keystock and place on the stand and you’re done!


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