Not So XL Scarecrow, for smaller build plates below 300x300x300

If you have built any of my previous XL models beware these are larger than my normal sizing. The not so XL is equivalent to an XL Size.

XL & Not So XL Scarecrow Assembly Instructions Important Guidelines & Printer Settings

• Dry Fit First: Glue is required for the final build, but it is highly recommended to do a "dry build" first to familiarize yourself with how the parts fit together. Some parts will not remain in place without glue.
• Sizing & Tolerances: The XL and Not So XL are the same model, but their connectors feature different tolerances pre-scaled for specific build plates. You can scale the models further if desired. If scaling down, you may need to reduce the connector size by an additional 1–2%.
• Filament Selection:
  • Indoor Display: Bambu Matte (Green, Dark Brown, Matte Dark Blue, Matte Latte, White, Black, Pumpkin Orange) and Elegoo Matte (Sunshine Yellow), or Bambu Basic (White, Black).
  • Outdoor Display: Print in PETG. For very hot climates, consider ABS or ASA.
• Supports: Some parts require supports, which are pre-enabled in the .3mf file. For easy support removal, set the Top Z distance to 0.275. Ensure all support material is entirely cleared out of the connector holes.
• Tight Fit Adjustments: If connectors feel too tight (especially in areas where supports were used), scale the connectors down by 1–2%. Tolerances vary based on your printer, calibration, and filament type.
• Orientation Note: References to "left" and "right" are from the perspective of the scarecrow itself, not the viewer.
• Part Identification: Pay close attention to the names of all parts. The patches are unique to specific areas and vary slightly in design. Assembly Steps

1. The Base & Stand

• Options: There are two stake options provided: one that attaches directly to the base and one meant to stake into the ground. Print the stakes with a high infill percentage to support the model's weight.
• Base Assembly: The base consists of two parts: the lower base (colored brown for soil) and the upper base (colored yellow for straw). These connect via four built-in square joints on the lower base. Note that the upper base requires supports for the square inserts.
• Stick Attachment: If using the base stick, insert the lower portion of the stick through the holes in both base pieces. Then, screw the upper part of the stick on securely. Tip: It is best to build the majority of the scarecrow off the stand before final mounting.

2. The Lower & Upper Body

• Legs: Start with the legs, but leave the straw feet off for now (these will be added right before mounting to the stand). Insert four connectors into the top of the legs.
• Lower Body & Belt: Place the lower body on top of the legs over the four connectors. Insert four more connectors into the top of the lower body, then slide the straw belt over them.
• Upper Body: Sit the top body piece over the straw belt using those same connectors.
• Shoulders: Insert two connectors into either side of the upper body for the arms, then attach the left and right upper arms. These must be installed before the neck straw.
• Neck Straw: Once the upper arms are secured, slide the neck straw over the two connectors protruding from the top of the upper body.

3. The Head & Face Assemble the head completely before attaching it to the upper body.

• Mouth: Insert the mouth piece into the head. It is a snug, friction-fit design and does not use connectors.
• Brows & Nose: Insert the left and right eyebrows, followed by the nose.
• Eyes: The eyes consist of four components: the outer white, the brown iris, the black pupil, and the white reflection piece. Pay attention to left and right orientations. The reflection pieces must sit in the upper-right corner of both eyes. It is recommended to assemble the eyes completely before inserting them into the head.
• insert 2 Connectors into the head and place the hair onto the head.
• Hat Preparation: Once the face is complete, insert two connectors into the top of the head.

4. The Hat

• Hat Rim: The rim prints in two upright pieces to preserve the texture. Join the two halves together using two connectors.
• Hat Top: Insert two more connectors into the assembled hat rim. These will pass through the hat straw and lock into the hat top.
• Final Hat Placement: Place the completed hat rim onto the top of the head, follow with the hat straw, and finish with the hat top.

5. Mounting & Arm Completion

• Feet Straw: Attach the feet straw to either side of the legs using two connectors per foot. Because of gravity, these will require glue to stay in place permanently.
• Mounting to the Stand: Insert a connector into the top of the base stick. Guide the stick up through the groin of the scarecrow. The two smooth sides of the stick are designed to pass directly between the legs.
• Completing the Arms: Insert two connectors into each arm (one goes into the cylindrical indentation). Slide the hand straw onto each side. Finally, slide the hand stick through the hand straw, ensuring the keyed connector hole faces upward to lock onto the connector. Final Details & Accessories
• The Patches: Each patch is tailored to a specific body part. Make sure the placement area is completely free of support material. Insert the colored filament accents into the patch stitches, then press them into the corresponding body parts. Note: They are a very tight fit and will be difficult to remove once inserted.
• The Pumpkin: Prints in two parts. The stalk fits into the top in only one specific orientation, though it may require a moment to line up correctly.
• The Straw Bale: Prints in four pieces: the center core, a connector, the string details for either side, and the two end pieces.
• The Crow: Prints in three main pieces. Connect the legs using the two small provided cubes. Once assembled, the crow's feet line up perfectly with the molded footprints on top of the straw bale. Congratulations on completing your Scarecrow project!