Christoph L
LeHa Design15K followers
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Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
LeHa Design
LeHa Design
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Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
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Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model
Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark 3d model

Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark

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Stanley the Drink-Snapping Shark 🦈🥤

Meet Stanley—the shark that bites your drink so you don’t have to!
With his spring-free snapping jaw, Stanley locks onto cans and bottles up to Ø 72 mm, guarding every sip like a true ocean predator. Equal parts desk buddy, party trick, and conversation starter, he’s the fiercest drink holder you’ll ever own.

😊 Why You'll Love It:

  • 🦈 Turns your drink into a fun ocean adventure
  • 🥤 Fits most 250 ml, 330 ml, and 500 ml cans & bottles
  • 👁️ Works with both multicolor AMS/MMU prints or simple single-color swaps
  • ⚡ Prints in just 5 snap-fit parts with no hardware required
  • 🖨️ Single-color model, can be printed on any machine
  • 🎉 Makes the ultimate party gift or desk conversation starter

📐 Quick Specs: Fits cans & bottles up to Ø 72 mm (≈ 2.83″)


🎨 Filament Used: Blue-Grey (Get it) • White (Get it) • Beige (Get it) • Red (Get it)


📋 Print Settings: See included README.md for detailed instructions


🎯 New to 3D Printing? Perfect prints guaranteed → Start Here

Community Makes (2)
Printed perfectly and looks great!  All of your designs so far have been flawless.  Thank you!
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic.  The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line.  I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging.  In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine.

This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio.  Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts.  The print adhered just fine to the build plate.
Printed perfectly and looks great!  All of your designs so far have been flawless.  Thank you!
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic.  The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line.  I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging.  In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine.

This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio.  Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts.  The print adhered just fine to the build plate.


Community Makes (2)
Printed perfectly and looks great!  All of your designs so far have been flawless.  Thank you!
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic.  The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line.  I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging.  In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine.

This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio.  Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts.  The print adhered just fine to the build plate.
Printed perfectly and looks great!  All of your designs so far have been flawless.  Thank you!
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic.  The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line.  I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging.  In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine.

This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio.  Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts.  The print adhered just fine to the build plate.

Discussions
Bryan G
sshaddowz
Printed perfectly and looks great! All of your designs so far have been flawless. Thank you!
Printed perfectly and looks great!  All of your designs so far have been flawless.  Thank you! 3d model
 3d model
PrinterFlashforge Adventurer 5M Pro
MaterialABS
Layer height0.2 mm
BrimNo
J
Jeffsonnn

Could you make an alligator version of this? Thanks!

Michael L
mike77589939561
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic. The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line. I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging. In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine. This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio. Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts. The print adhered just fine to the build plate.
I was going for a "cute but terrifying" aesthetic.  The next build I try will have some fuzzy skin on the tips of the teeth and along the gum line.  I prefer to use PLA+ 2.0 as the temperature is very close to the low end on PETG so it's easy to go between both filaments in the same printer on the same nozzle without clogging.  In this case, while I had all of the other colors in Sunlu brand, they didn't have a "blue grey" so I took a chance on the Deeplee brand sticking with PLA+ 2.0 and it seemed to work just fine.

This was also using a gold BiQu textured PEI build plate and the stock filament profile for Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in Bambu Studio.  Obviously, I modified some color layers on the biting mechanism and added in some manual supports in a few areas, but otherwise no brims or rafts.  The print adhered just fine to the build plate. 3d model
 3d model
 3d model
PrinterBambu Lab P1S
MaterialOther
Material typePLA+ 2.0
Layer height0.2 mm
Infill density5 %
J
jbalmer83

Oh this is amazing, cannot wait to make one for my 5 year old niece!

Anthony M
amillenemail

I've downloaded the file but I can't get the file to open up on my printers software.

Christoph L
LeHa Design

please use Bambustudio or OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer to open the files. Then you rightclick on the Model and press "Export as STL"

you can still use Ultimaker to slice the model, if you prefer, but you need to use one of the above slicers to export it as STL.

generally i recommend to use the 3mf, since it has all the color data, and slicing settings already applied.

nicholas n
nxcholas4652

the eyes dont look like the ones in the photo for the raised single color, is it the correct file?

Christoph L
LeHa Design

correct, the raised single color version, has the white pupils embossed by 3 layers (0.6mm) but unless you are very closeup, you dont notice the difference

A
aldaris99

Hi, everything prints fine, but I am having issues with the red plunger. After putting everything together, there seems to be a quite loose fit in the slide mechanism - sometimes getting stuck there. And the brim (not the 3d-printing brim) might need to be a few millimeters wider. Currently it gets stuck relatively often as the plunger's brim is caught by the jaw mechanism, beeing stuck there until one manually / forcefully removes it. all the best!

Christoph L
LeHa Design

Hi, I've updated the Plunger, so it is as big as possible, while still sliding up and down. the tolerance for the slide mechanism itself is on purpose rather loose, since i dont want any friction here. if i make it tighter it wont self return in some cases.....

Christoph L
LeHa Design

thanks for the feedback, i'll have a look into it, how large i can make the plunger.

Nicholas M
dextarrogue

I am also struggling to print the teeth. There is something wrong with the teeth on the left side of the model. If you look at the layer type in Bambu Studio the right one has an Outer Wall, Inner Wall, and Gap infill, the left one has an outer wall that's really squiggly and an inner wall. There is a little internal solid infill/gap infill but it's no where near as clean as the right wall.

I included a screenshot of what I'm seeing. https://i.imgur.com/0u5a6UQ.png

Nicholas M
dextarrogue

It keeps failing on the left teeth. My plate is clean, my first layer is actually amazing since I run at 20mm/s. The little squares supporting the mechanism don't come loose, it's only the teeth on the left side.

Nicholas M
dextarrogue

https://imgur.com/a/EilueQj - I grabbed one after the first layer too. I hope this helps!

Christoph L
LeHa Design

Ok, I've test printed it on 3 machines, with 3 different filaments, and the teeth did come out perfect on all three.

I've uploaded the 3mf file 3_shark_whiteTeeth_EASIER_PRINT.3mf

there i changed the following: Wall Engine: Arachne Avoid Crossing Walls Slowed speed to 100mm/s capped acceleration to 5k

please make sure your buildplate is freshly washed with soap, rinsed and dry.

all the best

Christoph L
LeHa Design

sorry this didnt work out for you. first layer looks actually amazing. regarding the squigglyness, i am testprinting a version, where i set the wall generator to Arachne, so it varies the line width.

if this print comes out nicely, i'll update the files

Nicholas M
dextarrogue

Sounds good! I was able to get it to print finally but I had to slow everything down to 60 mm/s purely because of that side of the teeth and thought this might help figure out the reason why it's failing for us.

Print a lot of mini models so I know it's not plate adhesion issues, without a good solid first layer it always has issues and printing all my first layers at 20 mm/s resolved any first layer issues for me. That's why I thought it was odd that this kept failing over and over again.

Rick Z
mud4me40

I cannot get the teeth to print, I have tried everything, cleaned the plate I don't know how many times. I give-up after 5 tries!

Christoph L
LeHa Design

i am sorry it didnt work out for you. since you are not the only one having issue, i am working on, how i can optimize the settings, so it comes out nice for everybody.

i'll update you with the result

Christoph L
LeHa Design

Ok, I've test printed it on 3 machines, with 3 different filaments, and the teeth did come out perfect on all three.

I've uploaded the 3mf file 3_shark_whiteTeeth_EASIER_PRINT.3mf

there i changed the following: Wall Engine: Arachne Avoid Crossing Walls Slowed speed to 100mm/s capped acceleration to 5k

please make sure your buildplate is freshly washed with soap, rinsed and dry.

all the best

nicholas n
nxcholas4652

trying to print the teeth mechanism, having trouble on the floppy levers falling apart while printing, what are the recommended support settings / print speed?

Christoph L
LeHa Design

Hi,

please try the following steps:

  • wash your buildplate with warm water and soap, rinse it thoroughly and let it dry completely
  • limit print speed to max. 100mm/s accross all parameters (outer/inner/infill) -make sure your first layer prints clean, and sticks well -if this still doesnt help, you can add a brim (inner & outer), which you need to remove afterwards.

all the best

Christoph L
LeHa Design

Ok, I've test printed it on 3 machines, with 3 different filaments, and the teeth did come out perfect on all three.

I've uploaded the 3mf file 3_shark_whiteTeeth_EASIER_PRINT.3mf

there i changed the following: Wall Engine: Arachne Avoid Crossing Walls Slowed speed to 100mm/s capped acceleration to 5k

please make sure your buildplate is freshly washed with soap, rinsed and dry.

all the best

View all 11 discussions

Stanley the Drink‑Snapping Shark

1.3K downloads · 11 months ago in  and 
Christoph L
LeHa Design15K followers
Follow
Subscribe for access starting at $18 USD
Get access to this model and 96+ more
This model is restricted by licensing terms.